July Lawn & Landscape Tips

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Shocker!  We have gone a whole week without rainfall in the Oklahoma City metro area.  This is the first week since mid-February that we have not had some precipitation. Normal annual rainfall in our area is around 35”, compared to 55” we have received in the last 365 days. 

If there is any practice that has been reinforced this year is important to plant a little high and make sure you have positive drainage away from your plant materials.  During periods of excessive moisture, plants with poor drainage, or ones that are planted too low, even if it was years ago, will be weakened by root damage.  Plants need the right balance of air and moisture in the soil.  When excessive water robs the soil of space for air, roots start to rot.  Rarely do know there is a problem until temperatures start to rise and the plant doesn’t have enough root system to supply the plant with needed moisture.  This week we looked at several plants that are struggling with root damage from the excess moisture. 

What is important for lawn and landscape now that temperatures are in the low to mid 90s and less rain is in the forecast?

Let’s take a look…

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Mowing – For warm season turfs (Bermuda and zoyia) gradually raise the height of your mower. Bermuda should be mowed between 1.5” to 2.5” during the summer heat. Fescue, cool season turf, should be maintained at its maximum height, 3” to 3.5” now. The more leaf space you have the more drought resistant your lawn will be. Mow often enough that you only remove 1/3” of the grass each time. For healthy, irrigated, and fertilized Bermuda, if possible, mow every 4-5 days for the best lawn. If you are mowing often enough you are only removing 1/3 of the growth, don’t catch the clippings. Grass leaves are mostly water and nitrogen and they break down very quickly into the soil. If your lawn has a brown cast to it after you mow, you are cutting below the leaves and into the stems. Stems do not break down quickly and can lead to thatch build-up, so if this is the case, it is best to bag when mowing.

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Watering – Your lawn and landscape needs at least 1” to 1.5” of moisture per week during the hottest periods of the summer. Water on an odd/even schedule early in the morning – before dawn. Avoid watering in the evening. Remember, deep soakings are always best. Shallow watering creates shallow roots dependent on more frequent watering. Monitor local rainfall and turn irrigation off when there is sufficient rainfall. Newer plantings will require additional watering until they have established roots.

Brown Patch – We are starting to see brown patch on Fescue. Brown patch occurs when there is excessive moisture, high humidity, and/or high due points when summer temperatures are in the 90s. Brown patch is worse in areas with dense shade and/or low wind movement. Anytime the leaf blades of your fescue stay wet for more than 6 hours at a time in the summer, brown patch is unavoidable. The temptation is to water fescue more frequently in the summer. It is common for us to find fescue lawns with the irrigation set to run morning and night creating the perfect conditions for the disease to spread. If you have heavy shade and/or low wind movement (most smaller backyards) water after sunrise and no more than every other day. Resist the urge to water more. Your fescue is not dying due to summer heat, it is struggling with brown patch. As a part of our 7 Step Lawn Care Program for cool season lawns, lawns with brown patch will receive a fungicide to help suppress the disease.

Fertilizer – Because warm season grasses are actively growing, they need feeding during July. We try to use a fertilizer with close to a 3 to 1 to 1 of nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K).  Most of our soils have plenty of phosphorous and potassium, but nitrogen needs to be replaced.  July is a great month for turf development and a thick, healthy growing lawn is the best defense to weeds. Do not fertilize fescue lawns now.  As a cool season grass, fertilizer in the heat of the summer on fescue will cause damage.

Weed Control – If you are on a regular lawn care application program, and if your first application was made prior to the first of March, you shouldn’t be experiencing many summer annual weeds.  But, with the excessive rain, we have seen some breakdown of pre-emergent herbicides, and a lot of nut sedge.  Nut sedge thrives in tight, wet soils – this year is the perfect storm for nut sedge.  If you didn’t get an early pre-emergent, you most likely have a good crop of crabgrass now. Controlling weeds in the heat of the year often can cause more damage to the turf than is beneficial.  It is important that label instructions are always followed when spraying for weeds.  Don’t over apply.  Again, what is most important in July is developing a thick, healthy turf.  If you are too aggressive on weeds now you will have weak spots that are more susceptible to weeds in the future.  

Shrub Pruning – Selective pruning and light shearing should be practiced during the summer heat. Major pruning needs to wait for now. Avoid any pruning or shearing on spring blooming plants because most likely you will be removing flower buds and reducing the show next spring. 

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Insect Watch – The first step to healthy plants is inspecting them regularly and then treating as needed. If you attempt to treat on a schedule, you will find that you often will miss the target pest. This year is a prime example. Bagworms and aphids have both been late to the game. With bagworms, by this time of the summer they are usually getting big and very noticeable. This week I noticed a few needle evergreens with very small bagworms aggressively feeding. Aphids also are late but are now aggressively attacking plants. Start watching for spider mites. They thrive in hot, dry conditions. They gather on the underside of your plant leaves and do damage by sucking sap from the leaves. They will leave small holes and eventually your leaves will look yellow and weak. They are very small and can be very hard to see. Take a white sheet of paper, place it below the leaf and lightly shake the leaf. If you see small specs of red, yellow and brown on the paper and they start moving around, it isn’t dust and dirt you are seeing, it is spider mites. Organic controls include insecticidal soap, predatory insects, and neem oil. If you subscribe to our Tree & Shrub Care program, we are inspecting each time we visit your landscape and treating as needed.

Bag worms

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Grub Worm Control – If you have experienced grub damage in the past, or if you have noticed a lot of June bugs around your landscape, July through August is a good window to apply an application for control. Grub worms are the larva form of the June bug. June bugs have laid their eggs and they are hatching now. Grubs are easiest to control when the new grub is small and feeding close to the surface in July and August.

Tree Leaves – Expect some leaf drop on deciduous trees in the summer heat.  Because of the abundant rainfall this year, trees are loaded with foliage and we may experience a lot of leaf drop should July and August turn out hot and dry.  Some leaf drop is a good thing as the tree naturally adjusts to the amount of moisture it is receiving.  The fun fact about most trees is they have a secondary set of buds.  If they are stressed, they naturally drop leaves to survive, and then re-bud as they recover.

If you have any lawn or landscape concerns, needs or questions, please give us a call – (405)367-3873.

Lorne Hall

Hall|Stewart

June Lawn & Landscape Tips

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Late May into early June is typically the turning point for your summer loving landscapes.  By the first of June, warm season turfs are looking great, shrubs and trees are full of foliage, and summer annual color plantings are bursting with brilliant color. With all the excess moisture in May, in Oklahoma this June should be great for our landscapes!

June is the month all your lawn and landscape activities finally settle into a predictable routine. Here are a few things to be thinking about:

Mowing –  For the best summer turf get into a routine of mowing often enough that you only remove a third of the leaf blade with each mowing.  For bermuda and zoyia, both warm season turf grasses, this may require mowing every 4 to 5 days.  If you can mow this often, don’t bag your clippings.  The top third of the grass leaf is 90% moisture and nutrients.  The best summer height for warm season turf is 1.5 – 2.5”.  Fescue, cool season turf grass, will continue to grow rapidly during early June but once we consistently have temperatures in the upper 90’s it will begin to slow down.  The best height for cool season turf in the summer is 2.5 – 3.5”.  Both warm season and cool season turfs, don’t respond well to being cut below their recommended height. Cutting the lawn too short discourages root development and having deep roots going into the summer heat is important for both warm and cool season turf.

Mowing – For the best summer turf get into a routine of mowing often enough that you only remove a third of the leaf blade with each mowing.  For bermuda and zoyia, both warm season turf grasses, this may require mowing every 4 to 5 days.  If you can mow this often, don’t bag your clippings.  The top third of the grass leaf is 90% moisture and nutrients.  The best summer height for warm season turf is 1.5 – 2.5”.  Fescue, cool season turf grass, will continue to grow rapidly during early June but once we consistently have temperatures in the upper 90’s it will begin to slow down.  The best height for cool season turf in the summer is 2.5 – 3.5”.  Both warm season and cool season turfs, don’t respond well to being cut below their recommended height. Cutting the lawn too short discourages root development and having deep roots going into the summer heat is important for both warm and cool season turf.

Fertilizer – Bermuda lawns should be fertilized this month with a higher nitrogen, slow release fertilizer.  The goal in June is to create a healthy bermuda lawn that will thrive in the summer heat.  Fescue lawns should only receive low nitrogen, organic, root stimulating fertilizer during June to prepare them for the summer.

Weed Control –  If you subscribe to  Hall | Stewart’s Lawn Care Programs  and have not skipped any applications this year, you have received two spring pre-emergent applications.  This has given you a good barrier to prevent summer annual grassy weeds.  But, if not, you may have some grassy weeds, most commonly, crabgrass, showing up in your lawn.  June is a good month to control grassy weeds while they are still young plants.  Once they mature, stronger products will need to be used which can cause turf damage.  If nutsedge is making an appearance in your lawn, it is best  not  to pull it.  When you pull nutsedge and do not remove the nut below the surface, the plant becomes stressed and multiplies. 

Weed Control – If you subscribe to Hall | Stewart’s Lawn Care Programs and have not skipped any applications this year, you have received two spring pre-emergent applications.  This has given you a good barrier to prevent summer annual grassy weeds.  But, if not, you may have some grassy weeds, most commonly, crabgrass, showing up in your lawn.  June is a good month to control grassy weeds while they are still young plants.  Once they mature, stronger products will need to be used which can cause turf damage.  If nutsedge is making an appearance in your lawn, it is best not to pull it.  When you pull nutsedge and do not remove the nut below the surface, the plant becomes stressed and multiplies. 

Tree & Shrub Care –  Start watching for spider mites.  If you notice pale and specked foliage, shake the leaves over a white sheet of paper.  If you see tiny specks that start to move, you have spider mites and should schedule a treatment.  Also, be on the watch for bagworms on needle evergreens. With all insect and disease issues, we subscribe to an integrated pest management approach.  With our Tree & Shrub Program, we inspect for these issues with each visit.  Most problems are easier to control the earlier you notice them.  If you notice any issues with your plants, please let us know.

Tree & Shrub Care – Start watching for spider mites.  If you notice pale and specked foliage, shake the leaves over a white sheet of paper.  If you see tiny specks that start to move, you have spider mites and should schedule a treatment.  Also, be on the watch for bagworms on needle evergreens. With all insect and disease issues, we subscribe to an integrated pest management approach.  With our Tree & Shrub Program, we inspect for these issues with each visit.  Most problems are easier to control the earlier you notice them.  If you notice any issues with your plants, please let us know.

Watering –  This may be one of the most misunderstood aspects of landscape management.  May was very wet…too wet.  Currently, soil moisture is enough for mature lawns, shrubs, and trees. If you have new plantings, or annual color, you may need to water.  Develop the practice of watering based only on need.  Anytime we go a week without receiving a 1” of rainfall, start watering.  When you walk on the lawn, if grass doesn’t spring back up, start watering.  Remember, deep soakings are always better than short, frequent watering.  Shallow, frequent watering results in lawns with less roots and more dependent on water.   

Watering – This may be one of the most misunderstood aspects of landscape management.  May was very wet…too wet.  Currently, soil moisture is enough for mature lawns, shrubs, and trees. If you have new plantings, or annual color, you may need to water.  Develop the practice of watering based only on need.  Anytime we go a week without receiving a 1” of rainfall, start watering.  When you walk on the lawn, if grass doesn’t spring back up, start watering.  Remember, deep soakings are always better than short, frequent watering.  Shallow, frequent watering results in lawns with less roots and more dependent on water.   

Mulch  – Add mulch to your landscape plantings this month.  A 2” layer of mulch will retain moisture, cool the soil, and reduce weed germination.  We prefer premium shredded all bark cedar mulch because it doesn’t float as much and aesthetically looks great.  For acid loving plants such as hydrangeas and azaleas, pecan hulls or pine bark mulch is a great choice. 

Mulch – Add mulch to your landscape plantings this month.  A 2” layer of mulch will retain moisture, cool the soil, and reduce weed germination.  We prefer premium shredded all bark cedar mulch because it doesn’t float as much and aesthetically looks great.  For acid loving plants such as hydrangeas and azaleas, pecan hulls or pine bark mulch is a great choice. 

Brown Patch – Be on the look out for brown patch in your fescue lawn.  Anytime nighttime temperatures are 70 plus and the turf remains damp for over 6 hours at a time, brown patch will develop. Areas where there is little air movement and/or heavy shade are more prone because the turf stays wet longer.  Brown patch will make the lawn appear it needs more water, but watering will just make it worse.  So, before you water more, think about the site, the amount of shade, the air movement in the area, and the amount of moisture the area has received.  The best thing you can do if this problem occurs is to stop watering.

Aeration – Mechanical aeration is a “best” practice for any lawn.  Aeration reduces soil compaction, promotes root development, and thickens the turf.  May and June are the best months to aerate bermuda.  This one practice will make a big difference in the quality of your turf.  The stronger the turf, the less weed problems you will experience.

Insects  – Regularly scheduled treatments for fleas & ticks, mosquitos, and perimeter insect control around your house should continue during the summer.  The goal is to make outdoor living for your family, friends, and pets the best possible.

Insects – Regularly scheduled treatments for fleas & ticks, mosquitos, and perimeter insect control around your house should continue during the summer.  The goal is to make outdoor living for your family, friends, and pets the best possible.

Tree Trim – Early summer is a good time to do minor tree trimming.  If you have tree branches that are hanging a little lower now that they are full of foliage, go ahead and remove them this month. 

 Get outside and enjoy your landscape this month! 

We look forward to every opportunity to visit your lawn and landscape! If you have any questions, please send us an email or call (405)367-3873.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

May Lawn & Landscape Tips

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In all the years I’ve been in the lawn and landscape industry I don’t believe I have experienced two identical springs.  Everything we do is based on air and soil temperatures, as well as soil moisture. So, we make are spring service plans and schedule services all based on the average spring weather.    

But, does average ever happen when it comes to weather? 

This spring has been almost perfect when it comes to a good gradual warm up without the usual extreme temperature swings. We didn’t experience the typical above normal temperatures followed by a late freeze.  The result was an April with some of the best spring color I can remember.   All the spring blooming trees, shrubs and flowers put on a show! 

With one exception, this has been a perfect spring.  Both air and soil temperatures have lagged behind.  This has been a slow-to-get-here spring resulting in slow turf development.  Fescue was slower than normal to regain full color.  I mowed my fescue lawn less in March than I can ever remember.  Finally, fescue color and development came around in April.  Even warm season turf has also lagged a couple of weeks behind in green up and development. 

Now with the arrival of May and the abundant moisture we are receiving, your lawn and landscape is positioned to take off for the summer.   

Here are a few tips for May:

Pre-Emergent Application – Between late April and the end of May, it is critical you receive your second pre-emergent application of the year.  A pre-emergent creates a barrier over the soil that prevents weeds from germinating.  Routine activity, such as mowing and play, as well as heavy rains, all break down the barrier we created with our first application of the year.  Application #3 is a key step in strengthening the barrier and giving you season long control.  The effectiveness of all pre-emergent herbicides is increased when the product is watered into the top ½’-1” of the soil Please make sure you do your best to follow the watering instructions we leave when making your application.

Post-Emergent Application – Weeds that are not prevented, both grasses and broadleaf, require additional treatment to control.  Now that the warm season turf is coming completely out of dormancy, control of weeds can be stepped up.  Application #3 contains broadleaf weed control mixed with the pre-emergent for additional control.  Grassy weed control will continue on an as needed basis in a safe manner to limit turf damage. 

Nutsedge  often begins to show up in lawns in late May.  The pre-emergent herbicide we use will help with prevention, but it isn’t 100% and some spot treatments can be expected.  But, since Nutsedge is a result of tight, wet soils, annual aeration is the best practice.    

Nutsedge often begins to show up in lawns in late May.  The pre-emergent herbicide we use will help with prevention, but it isn’t 100% and some spot treatments can be expected.  But, since Nutsedge is a result of tight, wet soils, annual aeration is the best practice.    

Turf Fertilizer – Bermuda lawns need a good feeding as they start into their prime growing season.  For fescue lawns May is the last month to strengthen fescue before going into the most stressful time of the year for a cool season turf.  After May, excessive nitrogen can harm fescue and often results in disease issues. 

Anytime we make an application of weed control or fertilizer, please let us know if you have any concerns 10-14 days after our visit. If the turf isn’t greening up properly, or if weeds are not wilting, we want to know. If you are new to our program, we know it will take time to get your lawn to the healthy condition you desire. But we expect to make progress with each visit. We know this may require additional visits and if you are on our full 7- Step Program, we will make the needed extra visits.

Anytime we make an application of weed control or fertilizer, please let us know if you have any concerns 10-14 days after our visit. If the turf isn’t greening up properly, or if weeds are not wilting, we want to know. If you are new to our program, we know it will take time to get your lawn to the healthy condition you desire. But we expect to make progress with each visit. We know this may require additional visits and if you are on our full 7- Step Program, we will make the needed extra visits.

Tree & Shrub Care –  May is the month to watch for bagworms on needle evergreens. We subscribe to an integrated pest management approach.  With our Tree & Shrub Program, we inspect for bagworms and treat as needed.  Bagworms are very easy to control when they are small.  But, they are very hard to see when they first start to develop.  If you notice bagworms, or have a concern about your plants, please let us know

Tree & Shrub Care – May is the month to watch for bagworms on needle evergreens. We subscribe to an integrated pest management approach.  With our Tree & Shrub Program, we inspect for bagworms and treat as needed.  Bagworms are very easy to control when they are small.  But, they are very hard to see when they first start to develop.  If you notice bagworms, or have a concern about your plants, please let us know

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Lawn Maintenance – Both warm and cool season turf grasses need frequent mowing now.  One of the most important things for good turf health is to avoid removing more than 1/3 of the grass in one mowing.  Not only does it not yield you the best looking lawn when you cut below the leaf and into the stem of the grass, it also weakens the root system.  Try to maintain your Bermuda on the middle setting or just below the middle setting in May.  For fescue, raise the setting one notch this month and cut around 2.5”.  At the end of the month it is best to have fescue at a maximum height going into the summer. 

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Seasonal Color – Now time to install your summer annual color.  Most landscapes look best with a splash of bright color creating a welcoming environment near the front door.  Impatiens and Caladiums are great choices for full shade areas.  Begonias, petunias, and geraniums do well in sun to part shade.  Periwinkle, lantana, and penta are good at handling the heat and full sun.

Irrigation  – The average rainfall in the Oklahoma City area in the last 7 days is over 2 ½”.  All the Mesonet sites in the area are all reporting ample soil moisture.  Please conserve water and leave your irrigation off or put it on a rain delay for the next 5-7 days.  If you have subscribed to our Irrigation Management program with the Rainbird Wi-Fi Link, we have been delaying your irrigation the last few weeks based on rainfall and soil moisture measurements.   During May your lawn and landscape needs 1 -1 ½” of moisture per week as temperatures start reaching into the 90s. Remember to always water based on need.  

Irrigation – The average rainfall in the Oklahoma City area in the last 7 days is over 2 ½”.  All the Mesonet sites in the area are all reporting ample soil moisture.  Please conserve water and leave your irrigation off or put it on a rain delay for the next 5-7 days.  If you have subscribed to our Irrigation Management program with the Rainbird Wi-Fi Link, we have been delaying your irrigation the last few weeks based on rainfall and soil moisture measurements.   During May your lawn and landscape needs 1 -1 ½” of moisture per week as temperatures start reaching into the 90s. Remember to always water based on need.  

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Azalea Care  – Wow!  What a show they put on this year.  After Azalea’s bloom it is time to fertilize and prune.  Prune between bloom drop and the end of June.  Pruning after mid-summer will result in less blooms next year.  Azaleas look best when minimally pruned and allowed to retain their natural shape.  Prune by removing longer shoots by reaching down and making cuts where they come off a larger branch.  This will improve air moment and promote healthy growth.  Avoid shearing azaleas. Fertilize now with a controlled release azalea food.  Now is also the best time to add a fresh layer of mulch.  As temperatures rise the mulch will keep the soil cooler and retain moisture.  The best mulch for azaleas is pecan hulls or pine bark.  

Azalea Care – Wow!  What a show they put on this year.  After Azalea’s bloom it is time to fertilize and prune.  Prune between bloom drop and the end of June.  Pruning after mid-summer will result in less blooms next year.  Azaleas look best when minimally pruned and allowed to retain their natural shape.  Prune by removing longer shoots by reaching down and making cuts where they come off a larger branch.  This will improve air moment and promote healthy growth.  Avoid shearing azaleas. Fertilize now with a controlled release azalea food.  Now is also the best time to add a fresh layer of mulch.  As temperatures rise the mulch will keep the soil cooler and retain moisture.  The best mulch for azaleas is pecan hulls or pine bark.  

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If you have any questions, please drop us an email or give us a call at (405)367-3873.

Our mission is to make sure you have a lawn and landscape that improves the appearance, enjoyment and value of your surroundings.

Lorne Hall

April Lawn & Landscape Tips

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April may be my favorite month in the landscape.  (I say that about a lot of months!)  April is the month the landscape finally comes all the way alive.  Cool season lawns are stunning and warm season lawns are turning greener every day.  By the end of the month, everything will be green!

April is the month that so many perennials, shrubs and trees add splashes of colors to the landscape.  Everyday, I notice something new bursting to life.

April is also a critical month for lawn and landscape activities.  It is a transition month between cool weather and warm weather and so many important tasks need our attention.

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Turf Fertilizer – Bermuda and Fescue lawns both need a good feeding between mid-March and the end of April.  If you subscribe to the full 7-step Hall | Stewart program, you will receive an application of fertilizer during this window of time.  If you subscribe to our 4-step weed control only program, it is time for you to fertilize.  Look for a fertilizer with 25-30% nitrogen and a small amount of phosphorus and potassium. 

Turf Weed Control – Application #2 not only focuses on feeding the lawn, but it also contains post-emergent weed control.  Our goal on Fescue is to clean out the broadleaf weeds and slow the development of Bermuda.  For Bermuda lawns, we want to suppress broadleaf weeds and get control of some grassy weeds.  But, while Bermuda is coming out of dormancy we have to be careful with herbicide applications.  We are limited in what we can do without damaging Bermuda.  Good turf development now is the key to a healthy lawn all summer and we don’t want to cause any harm while warm season turf is coming out of dormancy. 

Our promise to you is to take all the steps we can to remedy weed issues in a way that is safe for your lawn and the environment.

Our request is that you always let us know how your lawn is doing 10-14 days after an application. If the lawn needs to be retreated, results will be better if it occurs within 2-3 weeks of the initial application.

Irrigation – As the weather warms in April, your lawn and landscape will start needing more water.  This is the month you need start watering on a regular basis, if we are not getting sufficient rainfall.  Remember to follow the odd/even watering restrictions.  If you have a rain sensor, it will interrupt the cycle when we receive rain.  If you don’t, please remember to turn your system off when we get a good rainfall. 

If you don’t have a rain sensor, consider having one installed.  A sensor will pay for itself in water savings very quickly.

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Rain Bird Rain Sensor — they claim it will save 35% on your water bill!

Lawn Maintenance – If you have a Fescue lawn, April is the month that you will need to start mowing regularly. Remember the rule of 1/3 – never cut more than 1/3 of the turf off in a single mowing. Anytime you cut more than 1/3 of the leaf blade off you are keeping your lawn from looking its absolute best. Start mowing the Fescue taller in April. It needs to have as much leaf space as possible going into the summer months.

If you have a warm season lawn, you should have already cut the lawn short for the spring and can expect to cut the lawn every 10-14 days this month. Try to keep your Bermuda lawns cut short early in the season. You need to be in a position to gradually increase the mowing height later in the season.

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Seasonal Color – We all have the tendency to get a little antsy and want to plant annuals a little too early.  Who can blame you?  With all the colorful plants already in the garden centers, it is really hard to resist.  But, wait until after the danger of the last frost passes in mid-April.  Start with annuals that tolerate a few cool nights, such as begonia and impatient — wait until May to plant heat loving annuals, such as periwinkle, lantana, penta.   If you planted pansies last fall, they have come alive the past few weeks and will bridge the gap until time to plant.

April may be my favorite month in the landscape.  (I say that about a lot of months!)  April is the month the landscape finally comes all the way alive.  Cool season lawns are stunning and warm season lawns are turning greener every day.  By the end of the month, everything will be green!

April is the month that so many perennials, shrubs and trees add splashes of colors to the landscape.  Everyday, I notice something new bursting to life.

April is also a critical month for lawn and landscape activities.  It is a transition month between cool weather and warm weather and so many important tasks need our attention.

Turf Fertilizer – Bermuda and Fescue lawns both need a good feeding between mid-March and the end of April.  If you subscribe to the full 7-step Hall | Stewart program, you will receive an application of fertilizer during this window of time.  If you subscribe to our 4-step weed control only program, it is time for you to fertilize.  Look for a fertilizer with 25-30% nitrogen and a small amount of phosphorus and potassium. 

Turf Weed Control – Application #2 not only focuses on feeding the lawn, but it also contains post-emergent weed control.  Our goal on Fescue is to clean out the broadleaf weeds and slow the development of Bermuda.  For Bermuda lawns, we want to suppress broadleaf weeds and get control of some grassy weeds.  But, while Bermuda is coming out of dormancy we have to be careful with herbicide applications.  We are limited in what we can do without damaging Bermuda.  Good turf development now is the key to a healthy lawn all summer and we don’t want to cause any harm while warm season turf is coming out of dormancy. 

Our promise to you is to take all the steps we can to remedy weed issues in a way that is safe for your lawn and the environment. 

Our request is that you always let us know how your lawn is doing 10-14 days after an application.  If the lawn needs to be retreated, results will be better if it occurs within 2-3 weeks of the initial application.

Irrigation – As the weather warms in April, your lawn and landscape will start needing more water.  This is the month you need start watering on a regular basis, if we are not getting sufficient rainfall.  Remember to follow the odd/even watering restrictions.  If you have a rain sensor, it will interrupt the cycle when we receive rain.  If you don’t, please remember to turn your system off when we get a good rainfall. 

If you don’t have a rain sensor, consider having one installed.  A sensor will pay for itself in water savings very quickly.

Rain Bird Rain Sensor — they claim it will save 35% on your water bill!

Lawn Maintenance – If you have a Fescue lawn, April is the month that you will need to start mowing regularly.  Remember the rule of 1/3 – never cut more than 1/3 of the turf off in a single mowing. Anytime you cut more than 1/3 of the leaf blade off you are keeping your lawn from looking its absolute best. Start mowing the Fescue taller in April. It needs to have as much leaf space as possible going into the summer months. 

If you have a warm season lawn, you should have already cut the lawn short for the spring and can expect to cut the lawn every 10-14 days this month.  Try to keep your Bermuda lawns cut short early in the season.  You need to be in a position to gradually increase the mowing height later in the season.

Seasonal Color – We all have the tendency to get a little antsy and want to plant annuals a little too early.  Who can blame you?  With all the colorful plants already in the garden centers, it is really hard to resist.  But, wait until after the danger of the last frost passes in mid-April.  Start with annuals that tolerate a few cool nights, such as begonia and impatient — wait until May to plant heat loving annuals, such as periwinkle, lantana, penta.   If you planted pansies last fall, they have come alive the past few weeks and will bridge the gap until time to plant.

We look forward to every opportunity to visit about your lawn and landscape!

If you have any questions, please send us an email or call (405)367-3873.

Lorne Hal

March Lawn & Landscape Tips

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The below average temperatures have me longing for spring!

Our current early March cold snap is sure to slow the arrival of spring.  Usually by now you can expect to see a few shrubs, bulbs and trees to start bursting with color, but this year we are going to have to wait a few more days, maybe weeks, for the first signs of spring. 

Even though there is a delay, it is time to get up to speed with your March lawn and landscape activities.

Spring Lawn Maintenance – If you have not cut your lawn for the first time, please do so at soon as the weather starts to warm.  It is much easier to remove the winter damaged leaf blades before the turf begins to green-up.  Remember, scalping on the lowest setting isn’t required and actually isn’t recommended.  Simply mow the lawn at the height you plan to start the mowing season.  For most Bermuda lawns, the second setting is recommended.  For fescue, start on the second or third notch on your mower.  Many still inquire about dethatching at this time of year.  Dethatching is the removal of excessive thatch that builds up on the soil surface by using a vertical power rake.  But, unless you have a thick layer of ½-1” or more of thatch, dethatching causes more damage to the crown of the plants than it does good.  So, with only a few exceptions, the best method for reducing thatch is an initial spring lawn maintenance followed by aeration after spring green-up.

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Fescue lawn one day after Spring Lawn Maintenance

Lawn Maintenance – If you have a fescue lawn as soon as we string together a few 60+ degree days it will be time to start mowing on a regular basis.  Start your cool season lawn off right by maintaining it at 2 ½ - 3”.  Mow frequently enough that you are never removing more than 1/3 of the leaf blade per cutting.  So, if you plan on maintaining a 3” level, don’t allow the lawn to grow past 4.5” without giving it a trim.  If you have warm season turf, Bermuda or zoyia, you can put off regularly scheduled lawn mowing until April.

Lawn Weed Control – If you have not applied a spring pre-emergent to your lawn yet, do so immediately.  Summer annual weeds begin germinating when soil temperatures consistently reach 55 degrees.  On the average, this occurs by mid-March in central Oklahoma.  But, often weed germination will occur before around concrete edges and next to structures where the soil warms sooner.  So, for the best control, don’t procrastinate.  Always follow instructions.  Watering in the product within a few days is best as the herbicide needs to move into the top ½” of soil to be effective.

Bed Weed Control – March is an excellent month to apply a plant safe pre-emergent to your landscape plantings.  Use caution in selecting the product to make sure it is safe for your plants.  When possible, select a granular pre-emergent mixed with a fertilizer containing approximately 20% nitrogen. Doing so will give your plants a good spring feeding while preventing weeds at the same time.

Lawn Fertilization – This month is a good time to start fertilizing your cool season lawns.  Use a fertilizer with 25-30% nitrogen.  Cool season lawns need to be feed more in the spring and fall when they are actively growing, and less in the summer.  If you have a warm season lawn, timing the first fertilizer application with spring green-up in March to early April is best. 

Mulch – Spring is a great time to mulch your landscape plantings.  Maintaining a 2” layer of organic mulch will reduce weed population, retain soil moisture, and provide a more consistent soil temperature for plant roots.  I find adding mulch an easier task in the spring when I am cleaning my landscape plantings for the first time.

Irrigation – Start monitoring your landscape moisture weekly.  Anytime we have received less than ½-1” of rainfall in the previous 7 days, run your irrigation through a cycle or string out the water hoses.  Dormant lawns don’t require as much moisture, but they shouldn’t be left dry either.  For the best spring color, do not allow plants to become too dry when they are putting on buds.  As for your evergreen plant materials, a late spring cold spell could cause damage if your landscape is allowed to remain dry.  It is too early to leave your system on automatic and forget about it.  Monitoring and watering as needed is the best practice for March.

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Flowering Quince will be one of the first shrubs to announce the arrival of spring later this month


Spring Seasonal Color – Bedding plants will begin arriving in garden centers this month.  Resist the temptation to plant summer annuals too early. If you do, there is a good chance you will be replacing them. Later this month will be a good time to plant annuals that enjoy early summer – impatient, begonia, geranium, etc.  Avoid planting lantana, penta, periwinkle, etc. until late April or early May as they need much warmer soil temperatures to flourish.  Remember, most plants will do much better in well drained, organic soil.  So, add compost when planting.  A good way to avoid the temptation to plant too early is to plant pansies and bulbs in the fall. 

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Creeping phlox puts on a brilliant show in March

Seeding Fescue – March is the second best time to overseed fescue. But, it is a very distant second to seeding in the fall.  Spring seeded fescue will come up very well and look very good till the summer heat arrives - then it fades quickly.  Fescue, being a cool season grass, will not establish a sustainable root system when planted in the spring.  So, if you have bare areas in your turf that need to be addressed now, go ahead and seed this month and make plans to redo it in the fall.  Do not apply a pre-emergent this spring if you are going to seed as it will prevent the fescue from germinating.  Whenever possible wait until fall to seed.  Fall seeding allows you to focus on weed prevention and turf development in the spring and turf establishment in the fall when it is best.

Pruning – Early March is the time to do heavy pruning on your roses just before growth begins. Early March is also the best time to make major reduction in the size of hollies.  Before spring growth arrives, you can successfully remove all the foliage taking the holly back to the central leader if needed.

Wow!  There are a lot to tackle in your landscape during March.

If you need help with any of your lawn and landscape task, or just have a few questions, please don’t hesitate to give Hall|Stewart Lawn + Landscape a call at (405)367-3873.

Lorne Hall

February Lawn & Landscape Tips

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The Winter Lawn & Landscape Break is Nearing the End

With January behind us and spring only a few weeks in front of us, it is time to end our winter slumber and return to making our world a prettier place.  Sure, there are still a few cold days to come, but with each day the average temperature is rising and days are getting longer.  Very soon the browns of winter will be replaced with the colors of spring.  

If you thought you had another month of slacking on the lawn and landscape activities, I’m here to remind you of a few important task that should be done this month to have the best lawn and landscape this summer.  

Lawn Equipment – If you mow your own lawn, February is a perfect time to get your mower ready for the new season.  A great shop for a Winter Tune up is Bronco Power Equipment at 5010 N Rockwell, Bethany, OK  73008.  They will put in a new spark plug, change the oil and filter, replace the air filter if needed, put in fresh fuel with stabilizer, and sharpen the blade.  I am a firm believer in having your lawn mower professionally serviced every winter. Not only will you have less mower headaches during the season, you also can expect a longer mower life.  Call Brian at (405)789-8672 for more information.  You will be glad you did when spring arrives.

Watering – We started the winter with abundant moisture, but January turned out to be a drier than normal month.  The last significant moisture was on January 12th in Central Oklahoma.  During the winter your trees, shrubs, flowers, and turf still need some moisture.  Winter plant damage is more likely when we have cold snaps during dry periods.  I would recommend running your irrigation or stringing out the hoses on nice days in February if we have not received a good rain within the last week.   

Dormant Oil – Many insects, such as scale and aphids, overwinter on trees and shrubs.  Spray with a dormant oil when the temperature is above 40 degrees before the end of the month and you will have less insect issues during the season.  Caution – do not use dormant oils on evergreens. 

Weed Control – Since early January, we have been applying the very important first step of our lawn care program to our customer’s lawns.  For the best lawn this year it is critical you have a pre-emergent herbicide put on your turf to prevent spring and summer weeds before the end of February.  Many summer weeds germinate when soil temperatures reach 55 degrees, which typically occurs in early March in central Oklahoma.  If you have a bermuda lawn, now is the perfect time to be more aggressive in controlling existing weeds in the turf.  While the lawn is dormant, non-selective herbicides can be used without harming the turf.  If you have a fescue lawn, now is also a good time for post-emergent weed control, but you must read the label and insure it is safe for fescue before applying.  Never assume that a herbicide is okay on any turf type.

Soil Test – If your lawn did not respond as expected to fertilizer last year, you may a soil problem.  It is a good idea to have your soil tested every three years to insure the soil will continue to yield a healthy landscape. A soil analysis will provide you with the pH and levels of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.  A pH range of 6.0 to 7.5 is acceptable for most plants. Using a spade take 10-12 samples of soil from the top 6”.  It is best to test turf soil and landscape planting soil separately.  Mix in a bucket and remove roots and debris.  Place about 2 cups of soil in a plastic zip lock bag. Take the sample to your locale Oklahoma County Extension Center.  The Oklahoma County’s center is located 2500 NE 63rd St, Oklahoma City, OK 73111.  For a nominal fee they will have the soil tested and send you the results along with recommendations in approximately two weeks.

Tree Pruning – Complete any needed tree pruning this month.  This is particularly important on young trees.  Prune for a strong central leader by removing competing branches.  Remove crossing branches.  Remove low hanging branches.  Then, take a step back and inspect the shape and make a few final pruning cuts to suit your taste.  Pruning young trees will make a big difference in health and appearance as the tree matures.

Tree Planting – The best time to add new trees to your landscape is during the winter while they are dormant.  Balled and burlap trees are dug during dormancy and the success rate of transplanting increases to nearly 100% if they are replanted before they exit dormancy.

Lawn Maintenance – Continue to keep leaves and debris removed from the landscape.  Later this month, go ahead and cut the lawn for the first time.  It is not necessary to scalp the lawn all the way to the soil.  I recommend cutting the lawn at or just below the height you desire to maintain it at during the spring and early summer. 

I hope you are anticipating the arrival of spring.  An occasional spring-like day in February always gets me ready to be out in the landscape.  Take advantage of all the great days to get your lawn and landscape ready for a wonderful 2019.

If you need help with any of these tasks or have questions, please give Hall|Stewart a call. 

Lorne Hall

(405) 367-3873