August Lawn & Landscape Tips
We have arrived at the hottest, driest point of the season…the last 10 days of July and the first 10 days of August when Oklahoma City’s average daily temperature reaches its peak.
The key to surviving the hottest period of the season is best practices. It's not just during times of high stress that these habits matter, but rather it's best practices all the time that make the real difference.
After getting way ahead on rainfall from mid-April through early July, the rainy pattern shut off three weeks ago. Hopefully, the chance of a good rainfall today will materialize and break the 21-day streak of no rainfall we currently have going.
Lack of moisture is the current biggest issue we are seeing. This week alone, we visited a lot of lawns and landscapes that were desperately needing moisture, with irrigation controllers still set as if we were getting occasional rainfall.
To finish the summer strong and keep your lawn healthy, here are a few best practices to focus on, the first being watering:
Watering
The abundant soil moisture from the early summer quickly disappeared the past two weeks. The best-looking lawns and landscapes are those that are receiving 1 ½” of water per week.
To learn how long and how often you need to water for your landscape to receive 1 ½” of moisture, place your Hall | Stewart Rain Gauge or cans around your lawn. Water using your normal cycle and then check the cups. Adjust watering times and frequency accordingly to insure 1 ½” is applied each week. Remember your landscape prefers deep soaking, infrequent watering over shallow, frequent watering. Even in the heat, lawns and landscapes are at their best when they are watered deeply as needed and not every day.
Healthy lawns have deep root systems. Roots will grow to the moisture. If your watering pattern is short, shallow, frequent watering resulting in moisture only in the top 1-2”, you will have a shallow rooted lawn dependent upon daily water. Deep soaking results in a root system with grass roots 6” to 2’ deep that is not dependent upon frequent watering and is drought resistant.
Remember, trees planted in the last two years need supplemental watering during the summer heat and extended dry periods. A good rule of thumb is to give them 10 gallons of water every week.
Best Watering Practice for August – Know how long you need to water to get 1 ½” water on your lawn each week. Practice deep soaking, infrequent watering.
If you are unsure about your watering practices, let us help. We can schedule an Irrigation Audit/Check to make sure your system is operating at its peak efficiency during the summer heat.
Take time to check your irrigation and fine tune it. A leaning head often is the culprit for dry spots in the lawn.
I am currently mowing my fescue lawn at 3 1/2". More leaf space results in better heat and drought tolerance.
Mowing
Both warm season turf (Bermuda and Zoyia) and cool season turf (Fescue) should be mowed at the highest level this month, warm season 2-2.5” and cool season up to 3-3.5”. At the higher level the lawn will have more leaf space resulting in better heat and drought tolerance. Continue to mow often enough that you are removing only 1/3 of the grass each time you cut. If you are cutting frequently enough to pass the 1/3 test, don’t catch the clippings. Allowing the clippings to decompose on the lawn will return moisture and nitrogen to the soil. Give no bagging a try. You will be surprised at how much more color your lawn will retain even in the heat. When you bag your clippings, you are tossing out nitrogen and moisture your lawn could really use this month.
Best Mowing Practice for August – Mow high, mow often, and don’t bag your clippings.
Bermuda lawns perform their best in the heat. Mow often and don’t bag the clippings. Grass clippings are mostly nitrogen and moisture. Your lawn will thank you for giving them back.
After mulch mowing, use your blower to distribute any noticeable clippings.
Well maintained Bermuda lawns can’t be beat in August. This Bermuda lawn is the result of best practices this summer: well timed lawn care applications, aeration in June, deep infrequent watering, and mulch mowing.
Fertilizer
Apply fertilizer to warm season turf this month. This time of the year, Bermuda and Zoysia benefit from a high nitrogen fertilizer that is low in phosphorus and potassium.
DO NOT fertilize cool season lawns until we reach the cooler temperatures of September.
Warm and cool season turfs require different fertilizer schedules. Don’t make the mistake of trying to treat them the same when it comes to fertilizing.
Best Fertilizer Practice for August – Fertilize bermudagrass, don’t fertilize fescue. Important - Follow watering instructions after fertilizer is applied.
August is the month to be less aggressive on weed control. Because a thick turf is the most important part of good weed control, you want to avoid weakening the turf going into the fall.
Weed Control
Spring pre-emergent herbicides are reaching the end of their effectiveness in your soils. Should an occasional weed show up in your turf this month, it is best to go easy on weed control. We have reached the time of the year that damaged turf may not have a chance to fully recover before fall. Great weed control is at least 75% the result of thick turf. August is the month to focus on turf development going into the fall.
Later this month is the best time to start applying the first fall pre-emergent herbicide application. The first fall weed to germinate is poa annua (annual bluegrass). Poa annua has become more and more of a problem to control in lawns worldwide as it has developed resistance to current herbicide chemistry. For the best prevention, it is important to put a pre-emergent on your lawn between late August and the end of September followed by a second pre-emergent, using a different herbicide, in October or November.
Best Weed Control Practice for August – Don’t cause turf damage by overtreating weeds. Better to go into the fall with a thick turf than one with herbicide damaged thin areas.
Bermuda vs Fescue in August
Bermuda (warm season turf) loves the summer heat. Fescue (cool season turf) prefers nights below 70 and days below 90. Healthy bermuda lawns look their best in the heat of the summer. Healthy fescue will retain color, although not as much as in early summer, and growth will slow.
Fescue where there is plenty of air circulation and dabbled sunlight typically looks best in the warm weather. Fescue lawns with heavy shade and little air circulation tend to thin from brown patch disease. Brown patch occurs in fescue lawns anytime the grass stays wet for 5 hours or more at a time and nighttime temperatures are in the 70s. During the hottest and driest time of the season, brown patch is often self-inflicted by watering your fescue in the morning and evening, a common incorrect watering habit on fescue lawns in July and August.
Brown Patch develops in fescue lawns that have an area of low air circulation or heavy shade during the summer if the area stays wet for more than 5 hours at a time. Don't create Brown Patch with your watering practices. Allow your fescue time to dry between waterings.
Inspect Shady Lawn Areas
September through October is the best time of the year to establish fescue. Now is the time to assess the areas of the lawn where bermuda has become thin due to increasing shade (Bermuda needs at least 6 hours of direct sunlight to be thick), areas of the lawn where fescue did not perform well because of very dense shade (Fescue needs at least some dappled sun), and areas of fescue that have been damaged by brown patch this summer. Because fescue does not spread, you should plan on adding some seed every fall.
Best Fescue Lawn Practice for August – Inspect and evaluate your turf. Check shade patterns and make a plan for overseeding low light areas with fescue this fall.
Need Help Evaluating Your Shady Areas?
We would be happy to evaluate your shade and make a recommendation.
Just give us a call at (405)367-3873 or respond to this email.
Insect Watch
If Grubs have been a problem in your lawn, August is the time to apply an insecticide. Remember, the insecticide will kill desirable insects also. Only treat for grubs if there is evidence of a problem.
Keep on the lookout for Army Worms. We continue to find active army worms causing damage in isolated areas of the metro. There are 4 to 5 generations between July and November with each generation increasing in numbers, so early control is best. Early caterpillars are green and very small. As they grow to 1 to 1 ½” they turn browner with reddish brown stripes on each side of the body and small back spots on the top. Their distinctive mark is an inverted “Y” on the front of the head. Army worms will feed on any leafy, soft plant with plenty of moisture in the leaf. Typically, in August they will feed mostly on bermuda because of an abundance of healthy leaf blades and less on fescue because it is not flourishing as much in August. Watch for areas of the lawn that appear to have drought stress should not be. Test the area with a soap flush. Mix 1 teaspoon of dish soap with 1 gallon of water and pour over the surface. If you have army worms, they will come to the surface. Treatment with a systemic insecticide when the worms are small before they become heavy feeders is best. Need more information on Army Worms, check out our article from July 13th.
Continue to inspect shrubs for Aphids and treat as needed. A common host plant is the Crape Myrtle.
Inspect your trees and shrubs for active Bagworms. If you need help controlling bagworms, give us a call. When possible, remove and throw away bagworms. Don’t toss them on the ground because they will crawl back onto your plants.
Watch for Webworms in your trees this month. The later generations of webworm are the ones that cause damage. If noticed early when the webbing is small, simply cutting the branch out is the best control. If spraying is required, you must penetrate the webbing to gain control.
Best Insect Control Practice for August – Spend a few minutes inspecting your lawn and landscape for insect activity. Treat as needed.
A common problem on Hackberry trees in the summer is nipple gall. Unfortunately little can be done to control gall-making insects.
When you remove bagworms please dispose of them. This little guy is slowly climbing back up a tree to do more destruction.
Summer annual color mixture of Joseph Coat, Sunpatien, Angelonia, Penta, Coleus, and Lantana.
This summer’s Crape Myrtle colors have been brilliant.
Lantana
Shady summer annual color mixture of Impatiens and Caladium.
Limelight Hydrangeas can’t be beat for colorful summer shrub. This is a ‘Little Lime’ and is great for smaller areas.
Landscape Color
How has the color been in your landscape this season? Sometime this month take pictures and make notes of the plants that are doing the best in your landscape.
Black-eyed Susan’s are the perfect perennial to add color to the landscape during July and August.
Crape Myrtles are loving the warm days and rewarding us with abundant summer color this year.
Limelight Hydrangeas continue to brighten the landscape even on the hottest of days.
Lantana, Penta, and Periwinkle are just a few summer annuals that are at their best now.
What is adding great color to your landscape right now? We want to know. Send pictures please.
Lantana is one of the best heat-loving annuals and with so many varieties, there is a right one for every landscape.
Angelonia is becoming a favorite summer annual. It has profile spikes of color and is available in white and shades of pinks and purples.
Crape Myrtle and Black-eyed Susan’s are a great color combination for late summer color.
Limelight Hydrangeas continue to add large white blossoms to the summer landscape.
Coleus is a great summer annual with big colorful leaves that at interest to the summer landscape.
Black-eyed Susan’s add a splash of bright color to the hot summer landscape.
Lantana is one of the best annual color plants for a summer filled with above average temperatures.
Brake Light Yucca are a fun addition to the summer landscape.
Shasta Daisies are nearing the end of their summer color show.
The best perennial plantings are the ones that have something blooming spring to fall. I challenge you to find another perennial that puts on a better color show in August than Black-eyed Susans.
Periwinkle is a lover of the summer heat.
Keep faded blooms pruned off and you will extend their bloom time a few more weeks.
August is a great time to evaluate your summer annual color and make notes on what worked and what didn’t. This planting of Sunpatien, Begonia, Penta, Joseph Coat, and Melampodium started the summer looking great. But over the last few weeks the Melampodium has over powered the rest of the color. Note: “If using Melampodium plant it in the back.”
Endless Summer Hydrangeas will add more blooms this month.
Having a great lawn and landscape through the heat of the summer is a result of good maintenance practices year after year.
A great lawn and landscape are not the result of one season, or even a full year of focus.
A great environment is the result of discovering and developing great practices and then repeating them season after season, year after year.
If you need assistance in developing great practices or have questions concerning your lawn and landscape, give us a call.
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405) 367-3873
Fescue’s Summer Off Season
Question: What is one of the best things about living in Oklahoma?
Did anyone say: Living in the transition zone?
I’m guessing that was no one’s answer.
What is the transition zone? It is the area across the middle of the US between where warm season turf grows in the south and cool season grasses grow in the north.
The Transition Zone is the area of the country you can choose to grow either warm season or cool season grasses.
Bermuda is the common warm season turfgrass in our region. The advantage bermuda has is it loves the summer heat and as long as it receives moisture, it will be at its best in July and August.
Fescue is the cool season option. Fescue tolerates more shade and stays green nearly year-round. You can’t beat the deep rich color in the spring and fall. Fescue stays green well into December, often keeps some color through the winter, and as soon as the winter starts to break in early March, fescue bursts back to life.
Both have their off seasons.
Bermuda’s off season starts in November and continues until April. During this time, it goes fully dormant and turns straw-brown for months.
When is fescue’s off season?
Yes, fescue loses its green color in the winter and stops growing. So, yes, fescue has an off season in the winter, but much shorter than bermuda. Fescue goes through another slump in July through August when temperatures above 95 degrees are common. During fescue’s summer off season, growth slows and the color isn’t as intense. But, when a fescue lawn is healthy and growing under the best conditions, the summer off season is barely noticeable.
In April, customers with bermuda lawns often ask why their lawn isn’t as green as the fescue lawns on their block.
And, right now with 10 consecutive 90+ degree days, customers with fescue lawns are asking questions about why their fescue isn’t looking as good as it did in June.
Fescue lawn with dappled sunshine.
July through August is fescue’s second off season while bermuda is at peak season!
Bermuda will always have more color than fescue in July and August, but March through June and again October into December, fescue will always win the color battle.
Fescue when watered and mowed properly in full sun in the heat of the summer.
How do you keep a fescue lawn looking its best in the summer heat?
Let’s run through a list of best and worst practices for fescue during its summer off season.
Best practices for keeping fescue looking good during July and August:
Mow fescue at 3” – 3 ½”. The more leaf space the better color and the more drought tolerant the lawn will be.
Water deep. Water infrequent. Water in the early morning. Fescue lawns that are receiving 1 ½” of moisture per week, on an every other day schedule, only in the morning, look the best in the heat of summer.
Fescue lawns that receive at least some dappled sunlight and are in areas of good air circulation look the best during the summer heat.
Fescue lawns that are aerated in the fall have stronger root systems and can better withstand hot, dry days.
A properly watered and mowed fescue lawn last year during the first week of August.
Worst practices for fescue during the summer heat:
Don’t over water. Short, frequent watering does far more harm than good. It is a myth that fescue needs watered daily during the heat of July and August. When temperatures are hot and fescue stays wet for more than 6 hours at a time, brown patch will damage the turf. When brown patch starts spreading in a fescue lawn, it looks like the lawn needs more water. The natural response is to water more which makes the problem worse. It is common when making site visits where customers are concerned about their fescue to discover brown patch is the problem. Often the homeowner has increased watering to two times per day, morning and evening, every day trying to keep the fescue alive, all the while making it worse.
Brown patch in fescue.
Fescue with a mild case of brown patch.
Brown Patch is a result of fescue staying too wet when temperatures are warm. This year has been a perfect season for brown patch to flourish. Now that we have received two weeks of 95+ degree weather, areas weakened by brown patch in June are starting to show stress.
Heavy shade and low air circulation. Fescue performs best if it receives some sunlight every day. Fescue will tolerate more sun than most realize and does well in full sun when it is watered and mowed properly. Air circulation plays the important role of drying the leaf blades between watering cycles. Small backyards, privacy fences, and heavy shade are the hardest on fescue in July and August. This week Hall | Stewart Lawn Care Specialists have visited several fescue lawns with good air flow and dappled sun resulting in healthy fescue with good summer color while in the same lawn there is thinning/fading fescue in areas with low air circulation and deep shade.
Fescue cut too short. Remember leaf blades store moisture the plant needs to withstand the summer heat. Fescue survives through July and August best when it is cut at 3” to 3 1/2”. Every fescue lawn I have seen this week that is being maintained below 3” is struggling. If your fescue is less than 3” tall, don’t mow again until it reaches 4”, then remove only ½” to 1”.
Tight clay soil that has never been aerated resulting in shallow rooted fescue that will struggle in the heat.
Drought stressed fescue.
If your fescue is losing a lot of color check the soil. If it is dry, increase water by deep soaking in the morning every other day. If the soil is moist, then the problem is brown patch.
Fescue seeded over Bermuda in full sun in the heat of the year.
Fescue in full to dappled sun in July.
During fescue’s offseason, take a stroll around your lawn and start planning for the fall. The cooler days of September will be here soon.
Do you need to make some changes to how you are mowing and watering your fescue?
Are you trying to grow fescue in full shade, in a location where there is little wind movement?
If so, can you improve the conditions, or should you consider transitioning to a shade tolerant ground cover?
Or, are you OK with knowing the area needs to be overseeded with fescue every fall, will look wonderful for 9-10 months, fade for a couple of months, and then repeat the cycle again after fall overseeding?
If your fescue didn’t perform well due to the excessive moisture and high humidity of the early summer, or if it has struggled with brown patch in the heat, start making plans to overseed this fall.
Do you have areas of the lawn that are becoming too shady for bermuda? Bermuda starts to thin anywhere it does not get at least 6 hours of direct sunlight every day. Is this the fall to start establishing fescue in those areas?
Whether you have a full fescue lawn, or just some fescue in shady areas, don’t fret, fescue’s best season is just a few weeks away!
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
Good Mowing Practices Make a Big Difference!
Great lawns are the result of well-timed lawn care applications, perfect weather conditions, and proper maintenance practices.
As we approach the midpoint of the summer growing season, mowing practices are often the determining factor on the difference between a good lawn and a great lawn.
Unfortunately, as the summer routines wear on, good mowing practices are often overlooked as we slip into a routine of just getting it done.
When it comes to a great lawn, mowing practices are more important than the fertilizer you use, the weed control applications that are made, and the amount of water used.
Getting mowing right comes down to three critical practices: mowing height, mowing frequency, and managing the clippings.
Fescue is at its best when it is cut between 2.5” to 3.5”.
Mowing Height
Grasses adapt well to various mowing heights, but there is a direct relationship between mowing height and a healthy turf. As the height of the grass is increased, the root system increases. As the height is lowered, the root system decreases. A taller turf yields a healthier root system and a lawn that will withstand more stress. And, as the height and density increase there is less room available for weeds to germinate and grow.
Optimal cutting heights vary based on the type of grass and the time of year. All turf grass should start the season low and gradually increase in height over the course of the summer. The goal is to have your lawn at its thickest and tallest height during the heat of summer.
Fescue is at its best when it is cut between 2.5” to 3.5”.
Bermuda is best maintained between 1.5” to 2.5”, but Tiff Type Bermuda should be maintained shorter, .5” to 1.5”.
Areas of shade need to be mowed at the maximum height. The increase in leaf space will allow the plant the best possible chance to survive in the lower light.
A best lawn maintenance practice is to not remove more than 1/3 of the leaf blade when mowing.
Currently I’m trying to maintain my fescue lawn at 3”.
Yesterday with the fescue reaching over 4” it was time to cut it back to 3”.
Bermuda is best maintained between 1.5” to 2.5”.
Mowing Frequency
Probably the biggest hindrance to having a great lawn is mowing on a schedule, not on need. Most people mow their lawns once a week during the growing season. We all understand why. We are busy and our only opportunity to mow is on our day off. Or, you may have a landscape management company that mows the lawn once per week.
But, for the absolute best lawn, mow based on the 1/3 rule rather than a set schedule. For example: If you desire to maintain your fescue at 3”, you should never let your lawn grow over 4.5”. If you want to keep your Bermuda lawn at 2”, then you need to mow before it exceeds 3”, not just because it’s Saturday and you always mow on Saturday.
Whenever you remove more than 1/3 of the grass in a single mowing, you are cutting below the plant leaf and into the stem. If you see yellow or brown areas after you mow, you are cutting more than 1/3.
Turf grass research shows when you cut into the stems the plant responds by using nutrients stored in the root system to regenerate leaves. This reduces the strength, health and density of the root system and results in a weaker turf.
What should you do when your lawn becomes too tall, and you need to cut off 50% or more to get back to the desired height? Cut 1/3 off, wait a couple of days and then cut another 1/3 off. Repeat until you reclaim the height you desire.
There is no doubt that frequent mowing at a uniform height, whether short or tall, is one of the most important aspects of having a great lawn.
Mowing with a mulching mower will return valuable clippings to the lawn. Grass clippings are mostly water and nitrogen.
Managing the Clippings
When you are able to mow frequently using the 1/3 rule, I recommend not catching the clippings. Turf grass leaves are 80-90% water and nitrogen. Grass clippings decompose very quickly and add nutrients back to the turf.
Not bagging your clippings is a major step in improving your lawn’s quality.
When you bag your clippings, you throw a little of your fertilizer away every time you cut the lawn.
Most years, I bag my fescue lawn a couple of times per year, the first time each spring and September when I cut the lawn short in preparation of overseeding. So far this season I have managed to dodge the rain interruptions, stay on my typical 4-to-5-day mowing habit and my mower’s grass bag has remained in the garage since the first cut of the season.
A common belief is that when you don’t bag your clippings you are increasing thatch buildup. As long as you are only cutting the leaves and not the stems, thatch will not become a problem.
Mulch mowing will not only return nutrients to your lawn, it will also return moisture. This picture was taken during a heat wave and drought. At this point the lawn was being watered deeply every 4 days, cut at 3”, and mulch mowed.
Two Important Bonus Practices:
1. Mower blades should always be kept sharp. Dull blades bruise the leaf resulting in frayed leaves and a duller lawn appearance.
2. Vary your mowing pattern throughout the season to reduce soil compaction. Changing your mowing pattern will also improve turf appearance. I recommend rotating through at least three different mowing patterns. For example: mow parallel to the street, the next time mow at a 45-degree angle, followed by mowing perpendicular to the street or at the opposite 45-degree angle.
Changing the mowing pattern will reduce soil compaction and improve turf appearance.
Lawn mowing is the most time-consuming landscape practice.
It has to be performed more frequently than fertilizing, weed control, bed weeding, shrub trimming, and flower planting.
It is easy to allow mowing to become just another task that has to be done. But, a properly maintained lawn is well worth the time and effort.
Nothing adds more curb appeal to a property than a well-groomed lawn.
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
The Return of the March of the Army Worms
This week has us feeling as though we are living in a sequel of 2021’s March of the Army Worms.
We mentioned army worms last week in our post “What’s Bugging Your Landscape”, as a turf damaging insect you should always be on the lookout for this time of the year.
You can always find a few army worms in the summer and fall. And like most insects, when populations are at normal levels, they are not a problem, and you may never notice them. But, when conditions are just right, you can see an explosion to turf damaging levels in a matter of days.
An army worm discovered Saturday feeding on a rural Edmond lawn.
What are the conditions that make us feel as though we are living in 2021 again?
Army worm eggs and worms have a higher survival rate when there is abundant moisture. Over the last 30 days, we have received 7” of rain. In 2021, during the same period, we also received an abundance of rainfall.
The first sightings of damaging army worm populations in 2021 were on the perimeters of the metro. With each generation of army worms in the summer of 2021, populations increased and lawn damage increased deeper into urban areas. This week, army worm activity was heavy around the perimeter of the metro area.
The mature Army Worm is 1 1/2” long, green to brown in color, with stripes down each side.
What is an army worm?
The adult form of an army worm is a light gray-white moth with mottled wings with a 1 ½” wingspan. Because army worms do not overwinter in our climate, the moths migrate from the Gulf Coast and Mexico each year arriving in our area in late June.
Each moth can lay over 1,000 eggs.
By early July the first generation of eggs have hatched, and the caterpillars go on a feeding frenzy that lasts 2-3 weeks.
Early caterpillars are green and very small and don’t cause any damage until they reach 1”. Quickly, they grow into a brown, almost black, 1 ½” long caterpillar with black and reddish-brown stripes on each side of the body and small black spots on the top. Their distinctive mark is an inverted “Y” on the front of the head.
At the end of the 2-3 week feeding period, the worm burrows 1” into the soil and enter the pupal stage. 7-10 days later they emerge from the soil as a moth and the life cycle starts all over.
The average entire life cycle lasts about 28 days. There can be 4 to 5 overlapping generations from July through early November, or until we have our first hard freeze.
Again, army worms are always present in our summer lawns and landscapes. When populations are normal, you may never know they are there. But, with the right conditions we can see an explosion to turf damaging levels in a matter of days.
How many Army Worms can you see in this picture? Their green to brown color makes them hard to spot.
While standing in this area while Army Worms were actively feasting, I had the sensation that the lawn was moving moving.
What is the typical host plant?
The army worm feeds on a wide variety of plants. They prefer any leafy, soft plant with plenty of moisture in the leaf. They love alfalfa and bermuda hay fields and all turf grass varieties.
For home lawns in our area, typically by the time we get to July, bermuda lawns are looking their best and fescue lawns are starting to enter their summer off season. So, it is common for army worms to prefer bermuda lawns over fescue lawns. In 2021, fescue lawns were thriving in July due to the abundance of moisture and cooler than normal temperatures. At the same time bermuda lawns were lagging behind. The result was lawns where army worms wiped out the fescue and skipped the bermuda completely in favor of moving to another lawn with fescue. So far this summer with both bermuda and fescue both doing well, army worms are feeding on both types of turf.
If you have a healthy, growing, green turf of any variety, your lawn may be a host location for army worms.
Will army worms kill a lawn?
Army worms are primarily surface feeders. Small to moderate infestations will consume the leaves of the plant and the lawn will recover over time with sufficient moisture and fertilizer. In large numbers, the worms will consume the crown of the plant and are capable of killing a lawn.
How do you know if you have army worms?
Because of how widespread and large the current population is, daily or at least every other day, inspection of the lawn is important. Early detection is the best control.
When army worm population are high, you may only have to look at your sidewalks to see them marching to the next blade of grass.
Early signs of army worm damage will appear as drought stress. Don’t dismiss areas that you think may just not be getting enough water.
Stand in the area that looks stressed. If the population is heavy enough, you will have the sensation that the grass is moving.
Still not sure? Get down on your knees and inspect the area. Because of their green to brown color, the worms can be hard to spot while standing.
Still don’t see any worms? Test the area with a soap flush. Mix 1 teaspoon of a lemon scented dish soap in 1 gallon of water. Pour over the area. If you have army worms, they will come to the surface. 2 to 3 worms per square foot, you need to treat.
Army worms feed heaviest in the evening, night, and early morning. They often are hard to find in the middle of the day.
Another clue you may have an army worm problem - Have you noticed an abundance of moths while walking across your lawn?
Take a stroll around your lawn today. If you see an abundance of moths you need to treat your lawn for army worms.
Check leaf blades in areas where the turf is browning. If your blades look like this one with jagged edges, you have Army Worms.
How important is frequent inspection? I mowed my lawn on Thursday. This area of the lawn always struggles with brown patch in the heat of the year because of low air circulation. Yesterday afternoon I walked the lawn checking for declining areas When I got to this area it looked a little worse than it did two days ago. Then I saw something move. Being late afternoon I couldn’t find any army worms even on my hands and knees.
I decided to do a soil drench with soapy water. I mixed a teaspoon of scented dish soap in one gallon of water.
I slowly poured the water in a one to two square foot area.
If there are army worms in the area, they will begin to move after the soapy water solution is poured over the area.
How do you control army worms?
A quick response is important. Army worms can wipe out a football sized lawn in 2 days.
Treatment when worms are small before they become heavy feeders is best. The army worm consumes 80% of their total consumption in the last two days of their worm stage.
Any insecticide labeled for caterpillar control in turf will be effective.
When making any application remember, the label is the law. Always read and follow all label instructions.
After treatment, keep up regular inspections. With a 4-week life cycle and overlapping generations, they continue to be proactive in watching for increasing populations of army worms.
Army Worms are fast movers.
This spot in a bermuda lawn appeared to be lack of water, but while inspecting the area I discovered army worms.
This bermuda lawn had a similar browning area as the last lawn. But after not finding any worms, I checked the irrigation and discover a head that was not working and the discoloration was a watering issue.
Will your lawn recover?
If the worms only eat the leaves, the lawn will recover. If they destroyed the crown, there is a possibility the lawn will not recover.
If you have a bermuda lawn, continue normal watering and fertilizing. There is still time for the lawn to return to a healthy condition before the end of the growing season.
For fescue lawns, recovery will be slower and will be delayed until we see cooler temperatures. This is already the most stressful time of the year for fescue. The best time to reseed fescue is September through October. If you experience army worm damage on your fescue lawn, plan on overseeding this fall.
Inspect your lawn today!
If you see any signs of army worms or turf damage, call (405)367-3873 or respond to this email.
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
What’s bugging your landscape?
In last week’s July Lawn & Landscape Tips, we touched briefly on common insect issues at this time of the summer. This week lets dive in a little deeper.
Healthy landscapes are a result of an Integrated Pest Management program.
The first step of an IPM approach is maintaining healthy plant material with proper watering, feeding and pruning. Insect activity increases on plant material that is already stressed.
The second step is simply monitoring your plants. Weekly observation is critically important. Does the overall plant color look healthy? How do the leaves look?
Our landscapes represent large investments in both time and money. They add curb appeal and provide enormous benefits to the environment.
It is important that we do all we can to keep them healthy and growing.
Here are a few of the problems that we are either currently seeing in landscapes, or we have on our watch list:
Be on the lookout for any plants that don’t look their best. Notice the slight color difference between these two Taylor Junipers? After close inspection, bagworms were found feeding on the one on the left.
Bagworms
Timing - Eggs hatch in May and they remain active through September.
½-2” long spindle shaped bag wrapped in the foliage of the host plant. Young bagworms are very hard to spot.
Favorite host plants are juniper, arborvitae, spruce, pine and cedar. But they can attach themselves to deciduous shrubs and trees and we are seeing a lot of bagworms on deciduous trees this year!
Females lay eggs in bags left on plants over the winter. One female bagworm will lay as many as 500 eggs. The eggs hatch in the late spring and tiny larva crawl out and start feeding. As they feed, they use silk and plant materials to protect and camouflage themselves. Bagworms can strip a plant of foliage.
Heavy infestations, particularly on the same plant year after year, can completely defoliate a plant. Defoliation of needle evergreens, such as junipers and cedars, usually results in plant death. Broadleaf evergreens and deciduous plants typically are not killed but a weakened and more susceptible to other insect and disease problems.
When there are only a few, control is best by hand picking. If you have a large population an insecticide treatment should be made as soon as they are noticed. Try to remove any bags left on plant material in the fall. Bags left on the plant will serve as cocoons for females to lay more eggs. When removing bags, destroy them. Do not pick and toss on the ground as the worm will crawl back to a plant.
Bagworms produce silk threads to move locations.
Bagworms use the leaves of the host plant to protect themselves while they feed. This bagworm came off an elm tree, not a typical host plant for the caterpillar.
Bagworms can strip a mature Bald Cypress of its leaves quicker than you would expect.
Although not as common bagworms will feed on deciduous trees. If you notice skeletonized leaves, look close, most likely there are bagworms attacking the tree.
Young bagworms are small and can be hard to see. They wrap themselves in the plant needles making them hard to notice.
If you notice a juniper or cedar starting to loose color, inspect for bagworms.
Left untreated, large, heavy infestations of bagworms will kill mature trees and shrubs.
If there are not too many, the best way to control bagworms is to simply pull them off and throw them away. Don’t throw them on the ground, if you do they will crawl back onto the tree.
APHIDS
Timing – Species start producing in April and increase rapidly as temperatures increase.
A small, soft-bodied insect that is nearly invisible to the naked eye. The honeydew, sticky substance they excrete is the easiest way to know aphids are active. Colonies develop on the underside of the leaf and often are not noticed until the sticky substance starts to show.
They feed on the leaves, stems and buds of a wide variety of plants throughout the growing season. Usually, they attack the succulent new growth.
Aphids generally do not cause serious harm to mature plants, although they can be harmful to young plants. Heavy populations can cause wilt and yellowing of leaves as the sap is removed. Blooming trees and shrubs will see a reduction in flowers. Aphids can promote sooty mold, a fungal disease, and spread viruses.
Early detection is the key. Aphids mature in 7-10 days and can produce 40-60 offspring resulting in population explosions in the thousands within a few weeks.
When populations are small, a high-pressure blast of water can be used to wash the insects off the leaves. Wiping the leaves with a soapy solution is also effective with early detection. In most cases, once you notice the honeydew, it is best to treat with an insecticide. A dormant oil application in the winter is helpful in reducing populations the following season. Lady bugs can be used as a beneficial insect control when populations are small.
Aphids are small and often go unnoticed but the sticky substance they leave behind is easy to spot.
Aphids feed on the underside of the leaf and become noticeable as the leaf becomes covered with the sticky substance they excrete.
SPIDER MITES
Timing – They are active from early summer through fall. The hotter and drier the weather, the more severe the problem will become.
Very small (1/60 of an inch) that live on the underside of leaves and survive by sucking on the cell content of the leaves. First shows up as stippling of light dots on the leaves. Leaves then turn from bronze, to yellow, and then fall off.
They get their name from the small silk protective webs they create.
Because spider mite damage can look like many other plant problems, the best way to determine if it is spider mite is to shake the plant leaves over a white sheet of paper. Spider mites will look like tiny moving black dots on the paper.
Spider mites reproduce rapidly when conditions are perfect. Spider mites can hatch in as little as 3 days and become mature within 5 days. One female can lay up to 20 eggs per day during their 2-4 week life span.
The best control results from making two applications 7-10 days apart.
Adequate plant moisture during the hottest time of the year helps prevent population explosions.
Early signs of spider mites.
To know if you have spider mites shake leaves over a white sheet of paper.
Spider mites will look like tiny moving black dots.
Silk protective webbing formed by the spider mite.
CRAPE MYRTLE SCALE
Timing – Females lay eggs from May through September. Crawlers emerge within a day or two and spread to new areas of the plant.
The scale is white to gray and exudes a pink blood-like liquid when crushed. Initially you will notice a black sooty mold on the twigs and trunks of crape myrtles.
Bark scale is difficult to control without the use of a systemic insecticide to kill the sucking pests.
Inspect new plants for scale before purchasing.
Scrubbing the bark with a soft brush and mild solution of dishwashing soap and water will remove many of the females and eggs as well as remove the black sooty mold.
A dormant oil application in the late winter to early spring is an effective way to reduce scale populations.
This 25 year old Crape Myrtle was suffering from Crape Myrtle Scale last year. One year after trunk injections of a systemic insecticide and the mature tree is once again healthy and insect free.
White scale attacks Crape Myrtles leaving a black sooty substance on the bark.
SOFT OAK SCALE
Timing – One generation per year. Crawlers emerge in June, feeding and spreading on the branches.
They are convex in shape resembling a helmet, brown and ¼” in size. Crawlers are small and pale in color.
Scale feeds on the fluids in the vascular system.
They produce honeydew which is a source for attracting ants and other insects.
They rarely kill the tree but open up wounds that provide entry for other damaging pathogens.
When populations are allowed to increase canopy damage may occur along with discoloration of the leaves.
Application of an insecticide via spraying needs to occur in June when the crawlers are active. Annual spray applications in June are required until the populations are under control.
An alternative treatment is trunk injections of a systemic insecticide. Trunk injections allow the insecticide to be readily distributed throughout the plant’s vascular system to the fluids the scales feed on.
Soft Scale are small brown convex shaped insects on oak tree branches.
WEBWORM
Timing – The first-generation spin webs in July and later generations create webs in September to October.
Caterpillars weave a loose web around tree branches while they are munching on the leaves.
Favorite trees include hickory, mulberry, oak, pecan, popular, redbud, sweetgum, and willow. But you can find them on most ornamental shade trees when populations are heavy.
Early generations won’t cause long-lasting damage. They are just unsightly. The last generation can cause damage when the branch tries to rebud just before a killing frost. When this occurs, you can expect the affected branch to die.
The best control is to cut out any affected branches in the early generations when the webbing is small. Completely dispose of the branch as the worms will exit the webbing and return to a tree. If the web is too high or if the population has increased to the point that pruning is not possible, an insecticide application will be needed. The spray must penetrate the webbing to gain control of the caterpillars. Dormant oil applications are a good idea as worms overwinter in tree bark.
Even though early populations do not cause damage, early control is important. When left untreated, typically later generations’ populations increase.
Webworm caterpillars loosely weave webbing around branches to protect them while stripping a branch of leaves. When spraying, you mush have enough pressure to penetrate the webbing to gain control.
The webworm caterpillar weaves a loose web around tree branches to protect themselves while they are destroying your tree’s leaves.
The first generation of webworm started to show up in trees this week. Inspect your trees this weekend. The best control is to cut the branch out when they are small.
ARMY WORMS
Timing – Moths migrate from the Gulf Coast in June, lay eggs and the first-generation caterpillars start feeding in July. With a 28-day life cycle there can be 4 or 5 generations between July and November.
Army worms are always present in our summer lawns and landscapes. When populations are normal you may never know they are there. But, when conditions are right, as they were in 2021, we can see an explosion and experience turf damage.
Early caterpillars are green and very small. As they grow to 1 to 1 ½” they turn browner with reddish brown stripes on each side of the body and small back spots on the top. Their distinctive mark is an inverted “Y” on the front of the head.
Army worms will feed on any leafy, soft plant with plenty of moisture in the leaf. In 2021 they feasted primarily on fescue lawns because growing conditions were perfect for fescue. In previous outbreaks, army worms picked bermuda over fescue. If army worms are high in populations this summer, you can expect them to choose bermuda over fescue because the early summer heat has kept fescue from flourishing.
Watch for areas of the lawn that appear to have drought stress should not be. Test the area with a soap flush. Mix 1 teaspoon of dish soap with 1 gallon of water and pour over the surface. If you have army worms, they will come to the surface.
Treatment with a systemic insecticide when the worms are small before they become heavy feeders is best.
Can you count the number of army worms in this picture from August ‘21?
If you have areas in your lawn that are turning brown you can test for army worms by drenching the area with soapy water. If there are army worms present they will immediately come to the surface.
Army worms are present every year but in numbers that don’t usually cause turf damage. August ‘21 army worm populations were high enough they devastated areas of lawns in just a couple of days.
The best way you can protect your investment is to take a few minutes each week to inspect your lawn, shrubs, trees and flowers.
Hall | Stewart offers a Tree & Shrub Care Program based on an Integrated Pest Management approach focused on plant health. The program includes dormant oils to smother overwintering insects in the late winter, systemic insecticides in the early spring, inspection and treatment as needed in the summer, and fertilizer applications in both the spring and fall.
Complete control is much easier when insects are noticed early, and populations are small.
Please let us know if you have any questions or concerns about your lawn and landscape.
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
July Lawn & Landscape Tips
As June comes to a close and we head into July, it is amazing just how different our seasons can be. Last year at this time, we were all lamenting how dry June had been and the toll it was taking on our lawns and landscapes.
Well, this June, typically one of central Oklahoma's wettest months, came in strong with nearly 10 inches of rain! That's a huge difference from our normal of just under 5 inches, and last June when we didn’t even top 2.5 inches.
Believe me, your lawn and landscape can definitely tell the difference – can you?
One immediate difference is how incredibly vibrant the summer blooms are this year. Have you noticed the Crape Myrtles, the Vitex, the Rose of Sharon, the Hydrangea, the Hibiscus, and the... [fill in the blank]?
Two of July’s most prolific bloomers: Crape Myrtle and Limelight Hydrangea.
Every summer bloomer is truly putting on their best show!
And now, here comes July. Which way will it go? Will the abundant moisture continue, or will the typical, hot and dry July make its appearance?
Either way, our goal is to help you have a landscape that not only survives an Oklahoma July, but actually thrives. Let's take a look at a few things that will make a difference in your lawn and landscape!
Watering
The biggest determiner on your lawn and landscape thriving through the hottest and driest periods of the summer is practicing the best water techniques. I know…we are repeating ourselves, but it is so important that we are going to keep saying it.
Best watering practices:
Water 1” to 1.5” per week.
Place the Hall | Stewart Rain Gauge in your lawn, give your lawn a good deep soaking and then check the gauge. If you have ½” of water in the gauge you need to water 3 times per week.
Water deep. If you can get ¾-1” of water on your lawn without excessive runoff, water every 4 days. Deep watering creates deep roots and a more drought tolerant lawn.
Set your controller to water with back-to-back run times. If a zone needs to run 30 minutes to get the correct amount of water, set it for 15 minutes and program two start times an hour or two apart. Example: 4:00 AM & 5:00 AM. This ‘Best Practice” will increase the amount of water that soaks into your lawn and reduce the amount of runoff.
Water in the early morning. Evaporation is at the lowest point in the pre-dawn hours and typically wind is at its lowest point. Evening water promotes turf diseases, such as brown patch, and should be avoided.
Daily watering does more harm than good. Short daily watering results in shallow rooted turf and a lawn dependent on constant moisture to survive.
Anytime we receive ½” of rain or more, don’t water for a few days.
Aeration improves moisture absorption.
Watering Tip –
Most people don’t realize how long you need to run the sprinkler to get 1” to 1.5” moisture on your lawn in a week. If your lawn and landscape struggling, take time to place cans around the lawn to collect water. Water your lawn as you normally do and then measure the amount of water in the containers.
If you collected 1/3” to ½”, you are watering long enough for every other day watering.
If you didn’t collect enough during a typical watering, increase the water time and continue watering every other day.
The temptation is to start watering every day, but this creates a shallow rooted landscape that is more dependent on daily water.
Deep watering every other day is the key to a lawn that will thrive in July.
Want to know more about Best Watering Practices? Read our post from last week, Summertime…Water Time!
We are a strong believer in the benefits of not catching your clippings when mowing as long as they are not noticeable. Heavy clippings always need to be cleared from the turf.
Mowing Tip -
One of the biggest differences between a good lawn and a great lawn in the heat of the year is not bagging the clippings. Allowing finely mowed clippings to stay on the lawn returns moisture and nutrients to the soil.
This picture taken on Friday of a fescue lawn demonstrates that fescue is heat tolerant when best practices are followed: deep watering every other day, mowing at 3” with no more than 1/3 cut off per time, and not bagging the clippings.
Mowing
For warm season turfs (bermuda and zoysia) gradually raise the height of your mower. Bermuda should be mowed between 1.5” to 2.5” during the summer heat. Fescue, cool season turf, should be maintained at its maximum height, 3” to 3.5” now. The more leaf space you have the more drought resistant your lawn will be. Mow often enough that you only remove 1/3” of the grass each time. For healthy, irrigated, and fertilized Bermuda, if possible, mow every 4-5 days for the best lawn. If you are mowing often enough and only removing 1/3 of the growth, don’t catch the clippings. Grass leaves are mostly water and nitrogen and break down very quickly into the soil. If your lawn has a brown cast to it after you mow, you are cutting below the leaves and into the stems. Stems do not break down quickly and can lead to thatch build-up, so if this is the case, it is best to bag your clippings when mowing.
Mulch mowing is one of the most beneficial things you can do for your lawn. The key is mowing frequently enough that you are removing no more than 1/3 of the leaf blade.
The tropical type flowers of hardy hibiscus thrive in the heat of July.
Lantana and Coleus are heat loving annual summer color plants.
Limelight Hydrangea
Limelight Hydrangeas grace the July landscapes with large lime-white blooms.
Brown Patch
One benefit of the dry air of July is less brown patch disease in fescue lawns. Brown patch occurs when there is excessive moisture, high humidity, and/or high due points when nighttime temperatures are in the 70s or more and daytime temperatures are in the 90s. Brown patch is worse in areas with dense shade and/or low wind movement. Anytime the leaf blades of your fescue stay wet for more than 6 hours at a time in the summer, brown patch is unavoidable.
The temptation is to water fescue more frequently in the summer. It is common for us to find fescue lawns with the irrigation set to run morning and night creating the perfect conditions for the disease to spread. If you have heavy shade and/or low wind movement (most smaller backyards) water after sunrise and no more than every other day. Resist the urge to water more. Your fescue is not dying due to summer heat, it is struggling with brown patch.
Black Eyed Susan is a favorite perennial during the month of July.
Sunpatiens do well through the summer heat in Full Sun to Part Shade.
Penta is another summer annual that enjoys Full Sun to Part Shade.
Brown Patch Disease will make you think your fescue lawn isn’t getting water, so you respond with more water, which makes the lawn look worse, so you water more…. This fescue lawn was extremely wet this week resulting in self-induced Brown Patch.
Fescue Tip –
The key to fescue surviving the summer is not watering more.
The key is deep soaking every other day.
Watering daily, or as some are known to do, watering twice per day, is one of the worse things for fescue in the summer heat.
Keeping fescue wet will always promote Brown Patch disease.
Crape Myrtles respond to the heat of July with bold pinks, purples, whites, and reds.
Through the summer heat Caladiums and Inpatients will perform well in Full Shade to Part Sun.
Fertilizer
Because warm season grasses are actively growing, they need feeding during July. The plan is to use fertilizer with a 3 to 1 to 1 of nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K), plus iron (Fe) for added color. Most of our soil has plenty of phosphorus and potassium, but nitrogen needs to be replaced. July is a great month for turf development and a thick, healthy growing lawn is the best defense against weeds. Do not fertilize fescue lawns now. As a cool season grass, fertilizer in the heat of the summer on fescue will cause damage.
Bermuda lawns look their best in the heat of the year when they are properly fertilized, mowed and watered.
Periwinkle is one of the best annual color plants during the hottest periods of the summer.
Weed Control
If you are on a regular lawn care application program, and if your first application was made prior to mid-March, you shouldn’t be experiencing many summer annual weeds. A common weed this time of year is nut sedge. Nut sedge thrives in tight, wet soils. Areas with poor drainage and overwatered turf are frequent trouble spots. If you didn’t get an early pre-emergent, you most likely have a good crop of crabgrass now. Controlling weeds in the heat of the year often can cause more damage to the turf than is beneficial. It is important that label instructions are always followed when spraying weeds. Don’t over apply. What is most important in July is developing thick, healthy turf. If you are too aggressive on weeds now you will have weak spots that are more susceptible to weeds in the future.
Nutsedge
Shrub Pruning
Selective pruning and light shearing should be practiced during the summer heat. If possible, wait to do major pruning during the hottest periods of the summer. Avoid any pruning or shearing on spring blooming plants because you will be removing flower buds and reducing the show next spring.
Early July is your last chance to trim spring blooming plants such as azalea without reducing next spring’s blooms.
Turf areas that receive less than 4 hours of direct sunlight is considered Full Shade. Fescue is the best turf choice in Full Shade to Partial Shade areas.
Aphids
Bagworms
Bagworm
Bagworms continue to be the biggest insect issue currently. Not only are they attacking needle evergreens, but also deciduous trees and shrubs. Inspect your plants frequently.
Aphids thrive in the hot weather resulting in an increase in activity the past couple of weeks. They are easy to spot. Look for glossy, wet looking leaves. The leaves will be sticky and the underside will be covered with insects.
If you see more than an occasional grub when digging in your landscape, we recommend treatment. An occasional grub is good for the environment, but as with most insects, too many and they will cause damage to your lawn.
Insect Watch
The first step to healthy plants is inspecting them regularly and then treating as needed. If you attempt to treat on a schedule, you will find that you often will miss the target pest. These are the insects that are currently most active:
Bagworms – Common on needle evergreens (juniper, cedar, cypress, etc.). If a plant is already stressed due to heat or drought, bagworms can kill the plant. Inspect often and treat as needed.
Aphids – Small sap-sucking insects that leave plants with a honeydew, sticky substance on leaves. Aphids are easy to spot. If the leaves appear unusually glossy stop and look under the leaf, you will find insects hard at work. Aphids thrive in hot, dry conditions.
Spider Mites - They also gather on the underside of leaves but are very small and hard to see. The first sign you may have spider mites is a plant with weak looking, yellowish leaves. Take a white sheet of paper, place it below the leaf and lightly shake the leaf. If you see small specs of red, yellow, and brown on the paper and they start moving around, it isn’t dust and dirt you are seeing, it is spider mites.
Grub Worms – If you have experienced grub damage in the past, or if you have noticed a lot of June bugs around your landscape, July through August is a good window to apply an application for control. Grub worms are the larva form of the June bug. June bugs have laid their eggs, and they are hatching now. Grubs are easiest to control when the new grub is small and feeding close to the surface in July and August.
Spider Mite activity will make a healthy plant look weak with yellowing, speckled leaves.
Place a white sheet of paper under a branch and gently shake the branch. If you see small specs on the paper that are moving around, you are seeing spider mites.
If you have brown patches of turf and can easily pull back the turf, most likely you have grub worms damaging your lawn.
Lantana loves Full Sun but also performs well in Part Sun.
Tree Leaves
Expect some leaf drop on deciduous trees in the summer heat. Some leaf drop is normal as the tree naturally adjusts to less moisture and more heat. The fun fact about most trees is they have a secondary set of buds. If they are stressed, they naturally drop leaves to survive, and then re-bud as they recover.
July, more than any other month, requires you to keep your eye on how your lawn and landscape are doing.
Inspect regularly for insect activity.
Make sure your landscape is getting the correct amount of moisture.
And, mow frequently for the best curb appeal.
We want your lawn and landscape to not only survive this summer, we want it to thrive!
If you have any lawn or landscape concerns, needs, or questions, please give us a call.
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
Summertime = water time!
Friday, June 20th marked the official start of summer. Known as summer solstice, it is the longest day of the year.
So, if it is officially summer, it means it is time to review best watering practices.
Wait a minute, didn’t a local weather person report this week that the past 60 was the 3rd wettest 60-day period in Oklahoma City? That is true. The metro area has received 23” of rain since mid-April. Another way to think of it… in the last 60 days we have received over 60% of our average annual rainfall or 36.5”.
Again, why are we talking about best watering practices?
Because, summer in Oklahoma means temperatures will rise and rainfall will decline.
Best watering practices start with being aware of current weather patterns and adjusting watering schedules.
Best watering practices need to be your number one focus in the landscape for the next few weeks.
Best watering practices will have the biggest impact on the health and appearance of your lawn and landscape for the rest of the summer.
Best Watering Practices:
Apply 1” to 1.5” of water per week.
Your lawn and landscape need 1” to 1.5” of moisture per week when temperatures are consistently 90 degrees or higher.
Which begs the question: “How long should I water?”
Every irrigation system is different – different head types, different size nozzles, different head spacing, different soils, different slopes, etc.
The best way to know how long you should water is to measure the amount of water your system puts out in each zone. Take a few cans and place them around your lawn in a random pattern. Run your sprinklers through a cycle and measure the amount of water in the cans. If the sprinklers ran for 15 minutes and you had .25” of water, that zone needs a total of 60 to 90 minutes of run time per week.
Next determine how long you can run your irrigation before there is excessive runoff. This will tell you how many times per week you need to water. If you can get away with watering every 4th day, you will have a healthier, stronger landscape.
If you don’t have the time to audit the amount of water your system puts out, start with these settings, monitor, and adjust:
Fixed spray pattern heads with 10-15’ spacings – 15 mins per time.
Larger rotor type heads on 20-30’ spacings – 30 mins per time.
My practice has been, using the best practices mentioned here, to water my fescue lawn every 4 days when temperatures are in the 90s and increase to every other day when the lawn shows signs of stress from lack of water.
Set your controller to water with back-to-back run times.
For most of our landscapes, if you run our sprinklers long enough to get the recommended amount of water, you end up with a lot of water running down the street. Splitting zone run time in half and setting the controller to run through the zones back-to-back will improve the amount of water that soaks in and reduce the amount of water that runs off.
Example: Set the controller to run at 4:00 AM and 5:00 AM. When the 4:00 cycle completes, even if it is past 5:00, the controller will start the second cycle.
I know from experience that moist soil will absorb more water than dry soil. Soil is just like the sponge in your sink. A dried-out sponge repels water before it starts absorbing water. Your lawn is the same. The first cycle moistens the soil and the second cycle soaks in.
Split, back-to-back, irrigation cycles are an old golf course trick. Large commercial irrigation controllers have had a run/soak cycle setting that waters a short time, delays, and then waters a longer time for years. Now, more and more smart controllers offer a run/soak cycle feature.
I started using split, back-to-back, irrigation cycles years ago on lawns with slopes.
After seeing great results, I started incorporating the concept on all lawns.
It makes a difference in watering efficiency.
Water in the early morning.
Evaporation is at the lowest point in the pre-dawn hours. Typically, wind is also at the lowest point of the day in the pre-dawn hours.
I prefer to set most irrigation controllers to start at 4:00 AM with the goal of having the cycle completed by 8:00 AM.
Avoid watering in the heat of the day when much of the water will be lost to evaporation. Also, avoid watering in the evening. Watering in the evening promotes many turf diseases because the lawn stays wet too long.
This is critical for fescue lawns. If fescue stays wet for more than 6 hours at a time and nighttime temperatures are in the 70’s, brown patch is unavoidable. Fescue performs best in the heat if it is watered deeply, and grass blades are dry by noon.
If you water your fescue lawn in both the morning and the evening during the summer because you “can’t seem to get enough water on it!”, your lawn isn’t struggling because it is too dry, your lawn is struggling because you have created the perfect conditions for brown patch, a fescue lawn’s worst enemy.
IMPORTANT: Don’t water fescue in the evening during the summer. When water remains in the leaf for more than 6 hours, brown patch disease will develop.
How much difference does infrequent, deep watering make when it comes to developing a drought tolerant lawn? This is a picture of a fescue lawn in full sun in August that is deep soaked every 4 days. The picture was taken in mid-August with less than a 1/4" rainfall in the previous 20 days.
Daily watering is not needed.
Unless you are trying to get newly planted seed to germinate or new sod to take root, there is not a good reason to water every day. Always water deep and infrequent. Daily, shallow watering creates a landscape that is shallow rooted and more dependent on constant moisture for survival.
Fescue will also benefit from deep soakings, every other day, through the summer months. Shallow, daily watering in the summer heat is very damaging to fescue. Again: Brown patch symptoms look very similar to drought stress. Typically, the more you water, the worse the fescue looks, so you add more water, and the cycle of decline continues.
A common myth I would love to dispel is that fescue requires a lot more water than bermuda. Yes, it does for a couple of weeks in the fall when you are trying to get newly seeded fescue to germinate, but mature fescue doesn’t require more moisture than bermuda.
Aeration improves moisture absorption.
You can’t beat aeration for improving your soil structure. A key benefit of improved soil structure is better water absorption. Lawns that receive annual aeration (or at least every other year) do not experience as much runoff.
Head to head coverage is when the water from one sprinkler head reaches all the way to the next head. Without head to head coverage, dry areas can develop around heads.
Fixing uneven water patterns in your lawn may be as simple as making sure heads are straight. A leaning head will result in uneven water distribution.
A clue to an uneven watering problem is an arc pattern matching the sweep of an irrigation head.
Always pay attention to water needs.
If we receive 1/2” of rain or more, turn your controller off for a few days. Install a rain sensor if you are not good at remembering. A rain sensor will pay for itself easily in one season.
Just because it is summer, don’t assume you can leave your controller in automatic and forget it.
Don’t stress if your lawn and landscape gets a little dry, it will rebound quickly once water is applied.
A good indicator that your lawn needs water is the footprint test. If the grass retains your footprints instead of quickly springing back, it is time to resume watering.
Watch for uneven water patterns.
If you notice areas where the lawn color is fading, you may have uneven moisture patterns. This could be the result of a broken head, clogged nozzle, or a head that is out of adjustment.
Even if you don’t have an irrigation system, the concepts of good watering apply.
It is important to learn how long you need to water when you are using a hose end sprinkler. Next time you water, set out a few cans. You will be surprised how long you need to water to get the proper amount of water on your lawn.
Invest in a digital hose water timer, such as the ones made by Orbit. It will make it easier for you to control the timing and frequency of watering.
If you need help in determining your lawn and landscape’s water needs, let us know.
We can schedule an irrigation audit for your lawn and landscape. We will inspect for uneven water distribution, absorb water rates, make recommended irrigation changes, and set the controller for optimal operation. Give us a call if we can help – (405)367-3873.
A healthy landscape is an important part of our environment.
A healthy turf helps clean the air, trap carbon dioxide, reduce erosion, improve groundwater quality, absorb noise, reduce temperatures, as well as adds cub appeal and value to your home.
A key component to a healthy landscape is correct water usage.
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
Summer Blooming Trees
With the first official day of summer arriving this Friday, let’s celebrate summer in the landscape!
Is there a better way to celebrate summer than talking about the summer blooming trees that are currently adding color to our world?
Vitex –
Covered with lilac-purple flowers in June and July.
Commonly known as Chaste Tree. It is easy to overlook this summer bloomer because too often they look like overgrown shrubs. But, when you see a 15-20’ tall, multi-trunk, well maintained variety covered with 12-18” purple flowers and gray-green foliage, you will fall in love. They do well as large shrubs but make an even better summer statement when their lower branches are kept clear of suckers. They are very tolerant of our soils and weather. Fertilizing in the spring and sufficient water in the early summer will produce the most dramatic summer show. Best planted in full sun.
Vitex makes a bold summertime statement with its 12-18” purple flowers.
Vitex does well as a large shrub but looks even better as a small, multi-truck tree when their lower branches are free of sucker growth.
Vitex
The multi-trunks of a well maintained Vitex add a dramatic look to a landscape.
Goldenrain Tree adds brightness to the summer landscape with papery, lantern like flower pods.
The early summer bright yellows of the Goldenrain Trees are eye catching.
Goldenrain Tree –
Never receives enough attention for its stunning yellow color.
As the tree matures, it develops an open branched, airy, oval shaped form with rich yellow flowers in June and July. The flowers form a papery, lantern-like pod that gradually turns brown in late summer. The tree handles drought and heat well. It is tolerant of most soil types, but is a fast grower in moist, well-drained soils. It is an excellent lawn specimen that grows to 30-40’ high and wide.
Goldenrain Tree flowers gradually turn to a papery, pattern like seed pod in late summer adding another interest to the landscape.
Mimosa –
Fern like foliage with pink pincushion style blooms.
My childhood home had one in the front lawn. Unfortunately, most old varieties of Mimosa were susceptible to a wilt disease that results in gradual decline and eventual death. Prolific seeders, it is common to see them growing in rural fence rows. But, in recent years we have seen a resurgence of Mimosa with newer, disease resistant varieties. With an umbrella shaped canopy and fern-like leaves, the tree adds a tropical look to the landscape. Fast growers that will reach 15-30’ depending on the variety. For even more summer interest, check out the Summer Chocolate and Chocolate Fountain Mimosa varieties that have bronze-green and purple foliage.
Mimosas have been adding pink pincushion style blooms to the summer landscape for generations.
Ombrella Mimosa is a newer, disease resistant variety with large, cherry-pink, powder-puff-shaped, fragrant flowers.
Chocolate Mimosa Trees leaves deepen to a rich chocolate-brown color during the summer with pink pincushion-like blooms.
Desert Willow have trumpet shaped blooms and are the most drought and heat resistant flowering tree.
Dessert Willow –
Great addition to a water-wise landscape.
Willow type narrow leaves create an airy tropical, loose appearance with long blooming trumpet shaped blooms. A smaller tree, 15-20’ tall, that is loved by hummingbirds. They need to be planted in full sun and prefer dry, well-drained soil. Unlike traditional willow trees, they will not tolerate wet soils. Dessert Willow is the most drought and heat-resistant flowering tree.
Smoke Tree –
Tremendous visual appeal in May and June.
Often considered a large shrub, this small tree can reach 10-15’, producing smoke like airy plumes in early summer. There are several varieties available ranging from green, to yellow, to purple leaves. Best planted in full sun.
Smoke Trees add smoke like airy plumes to the landscape in early summer.
Smoke Trees make an excellent landscape focus as a small tree.
Royal Purple Smoke Tree has dramatic, pinkish purple, smoke-like clusters on reddish purple foliage.
There is a Smoke Tree variety with green leaves and lime green airy plumes.
Rose of Sharon –
Adds an antique appearance to the landscape.
Often found as a large shrub at older residences, but many improved varieties are available. With a strong multi-stemmed upright growth habit, they add interest to the landscape as a small tree, 8-10’ tall. White is the most common bloom color but there are varieties in pinks, blues, and purple as well. They grow well in full sun to partial shade.
Magnolias add a graceful feel to the summer landscape with their large white fragrant flowers.
Magnolia, an evergreen, has leaves that are large, shinny, and dark green on the top, but velvety, reddish-brown on the underside.
Dynamite
Ebony Flame
Natchez
Dynamite Crape Myrtle
Rose of Sharon is an old fashioned typically grown as a large shrub, but with their upright multi-stemmed growth habit they make a great small tree.
Magnolia –
An evergreen summer blooming tree.
The traditional Magnolia, Southern Magnolia, is a large 50-80’ tall, 30-50’ wide evergreen that is too large for most city-sized landscapes. But, the Little Gem and Teddy Bear Magnolia are smaller, 20-25’ tall, 10-15’ wide, compact forms of the Southern Magnolia. They grace the landscape with large shiny dark green leaves with a velvety, reddish-brown underside year-round and large 8” white saucer shaped blooms from early summer to fall.
Magnolia
Magnolia
Crape Myrtles most commonly are multi-truck small trees, but more recently we are seeing more and more grown as single-trimmed trees.
Crape Myrtle
– Summer’s biggest show.
There are over 50 varieties of Crape Myrtles and new ones are introduced every year. The color pallet ranges from white, pink, purple and red. Bloom color is not the only attribute of a crape myrtle. Their foliage ranges from dark green, wine colored, velvet and dark purple. The combination of the bloom and foliage colors is one of the things that attracts me to the plant.
With so many varieties of Crape Myrtles, there is sure to be one right for your landscape. Here are a few of my favorites:
Pink Velour – Large 12-15’ small tree form with dark wine foliage and bright pink flowers. The foliage and flower combination are very striking.
Dynamite – Also a small tree that grows up to 15’. Dynamite was one of the first red tree form varieties. New foliage is nearly crimson in color and changes to a rich green as it matures. Flowers are brilliant red.
Natchez – One of the largest tree form crape myrtles reaching 25’. The foliage is rich green, and the flowers are white. The cinnamon brown bark puts on a show of its own as it exfoliates.
Ebony Flame – A great accent plant that grows 10-12’ with dark red blooms on intense black foliage.
Pink Velour
The bark of a large Crape Myrtle is one of the most overlooked aspects. The bark is smooth and ranges in color from pink to gray. As the plant matures, the thin bark exfoliates to expose a different color underneath. Too often, tree form Crape Myrtles are severely pruned every spring, and we never get to enjoy the beautiful bark of the mature plant.
One of the nation’s leading innovators of Crape Myrtles is Oklahoma’s own, Dr. Carl Whitcomb. Dr. Whitcomb holds 32 patents and has authored five books including Know It and Grow It, a book every landscape enthusiast should own. You can see all of Dr. Whitcomb’s Crape Myrtles by following this link.
Some of the brightest colors you will see this summer will be from Crape Myrtles.
Mature Crape Myrtles grown as trees have the added interest of multicolored bark.
What is your favorite?
Did any of these inspire you to add a new summer blooming tree to your landscape?
Get outside. Walk the neighborhood. Visit one of our parks.
I am confident you will discover a few of these trees adding color to the summer!
Lorne Hall
Hall Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
Brown Patch – Fescue’s Biggest Summer Challenge
Common Belief – Fescue’s biggest summer challenge is surviving the heat.
Fact – Fescue’s biggest summer challenge is surviving Brown Patch.
It is a misconception that fescue lawns need a lot of water to survive summertime. The truth is too much watering, or rather, bad watering practices, is the reason why Brown Patch is the biggest problem for fescue during the summer.
If don’t have any fescue in your lawn and are about to click delete…DON’T DO IT!
There is valuable information at the bottom of the article about BAGWORMS.
So, what is Brown Patch and why is it fescues biggest problem?
Fescue lawns are currently looking great! Temperatures right now are great for cool season turf, and we have had an abundance of rainfall, approximately 10” since the first of May.
Fescue lawns looking great…and rain. Could this be a problem?
It very well could be a problem because we have perfect conditions for fescue’s biggest summer challenge, Brown Patch.
The common belief is that fescue’s biggest summer challenge is surviving the heat.
But, in fact, fescue’s biggest summer challenge is surviving Brown Patch.
If don’t have any fescue in your lawn and are about to click delete… DON’T DO IT! There is valuable information at the end of this article about BAGWORMS.
There is a belief that fescue lawns require a lot of water to survive the summertime. But, the truth is too much water, either from rainfall or from overwatering, bad watering practices, is the reason Brown Patch is the biggest problem for fescue during the summer.
What is Brown Patch and why is it fescue’s biggest problem?
Brown Patch is the most common disease of fescue in Oklahoma. The pathogen (Rhizoctonia solani) that causes Brown Patch prefers warm temperatures and requires excessive moisture.
Brown Patch will develop anytime daytime temperatures are in the 90’s, nighttime temperatures stay in the 70’s and the turf leaf blades stay wet for 5 hours or more. Rain, or even just high humidities and excessive dew can be enough to keep your turfgrass wet for an extended period giving Brown Patch the opportunity to develop.
During June, typically Oklahoma City’s second wettest month, Brown Patch often occurs because the conditions for the disease are exactly right.
In July and August, as the climate moves from being more humid to being more arid, we should see less Brown Patch pressure on fescue lawns, but we don’t. As the summer gets warmer, we typically see more of the disease because the default tendency is to overwater fescue, and/or to water incorrectly.
Brown Patch appears as irregularly shaped larger areas of thinning, brown to yellow grass blades. Close inspection of leaf blades will reveal small, irregular, tan leaf spots with dark-brown borders.
Brown Patch will be more severe in areas of poor soil drainage, areas with poor air movement, areas with dense shade, and fescue that is over fertilized in the summer.
Fescue lawns that are watered daily, or watered in the evening, are likely to struggle with Brown Patch.
Brown patch
Do not use high rates of nitrogen fertilizer on fescue when temperatures are prime for Brown Patch during the summer months. Apply no more than ½ lb. of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet on fescue during summer months. The disease readily attacks the lush growth of grass promoted by nitrogen. During the early summer, fertilize fescue with a low nitrogen fertilizer containing higher amounts of phosphorus and potassium to strengthen the root system then do not fertilize again until temperatures begin to cool in September.
Keep the lawn mowed regularly at the proper height. Fescue should be mowed at 3 to 3 ½” in the summer. Lower mowing will increase disease severity. Remove clippings if you have an active outbreak of Brown Patch. Diseased clippings will feed the spread of the pathogen.
Do all you can to provide good drainage. Annual aeration in the fall will improve soil structure and improve water movement off the surface and into the root zone.
Close inspection of leaf blades will reveal small, irregular, tan leaf spots with dark-brown borders.
Brown patch disease loves mornings when there is a heavy dew.
Brown patch disease in fescue appears as irregular areas that lead you to believe the lawn may not be getting enough water.
What can be done to minimize the problem of Brown Patch on Fescue?
Selecting tall fescue varieties with a high resistance to Brown Patch is a critical first step. We recommend using a fescue blend with at least three varieties. Additionally, look for a mixture specifically for our area. The mixture we use to overseed fescue in the fall includes varieties that show high resistance to brown patch.
Avoiding prolonged periods of leaf wetness will drastically reduce the severity of Brown Patch. When temperatures are warm and fescue grass blades are wet for more than 5 hours at a time, the disease will be present. Do not water daily. Do not water in the evening. Water only when needed and only in the early morning. Deep soaking every other day is best practice. The goal is to get 1 ½” of water on fescue during the summer per week by watering no more than 3 times per week. Deep soak in the morning. Skip a day, then deep soak again.
Want to water your fescue less and still have a healthy fescue lawn? Contact us about our Water Retention Program.
Brown patch
A close look at the leaf blades in this area of fescue that is turning slightly brown and thinning reveals the presence of brown patch disease.
Watch this video to see the difference between brown patch and lack of water on a fescue lawn.
A key to managing Brown Patch in fescue is to water deep early in the morning every other day during the summer and avoid keeping the lawn moist for 5 or more hours at a time.
Overseed fescue in the fall. Avoid spring seeding of fescue. Brown Patch is more aggressive on young fescue while mature fescue is more resistant. It is common for spring seeded fescue to struggle with brown patch during the summer.
Have your soil tested every couple of years. Brown Patch will be more severe when the soil is not healthy, pH is too high or too low, or nutrients are out of balance.
The best way to prevent Brown Patch is to eliminate areas where the disease will thrive. Consider making changes to the landscape in areas with poor air circulation and dense shade. Small turf areas surrounded by structures, fences, and heavy landscaping are brown patch prone. You may find removing the turf and extending the landscape or planting groundcovers a better option.
Most importantly…. when we receive rainfall during summer months, turn your irrigation off for a few days. Allow time for your lawn and landscape to dry out, good for all types of turf, but critical for fescue.
Cultural practices are very important and the best practices for Brown Patch management.
Fungicides are effective for Brown Patch as either a preventive or curative treatment. Fungicides can be applied in late spring and early summer when the conditions are right for the development of the disease.
If your fescue is not looking its best, don’t assume it needs more water. Brown Patch will lead you to believe the lawn is too dry. Before you start watering, inspect the leaf blades for evidence of the disease and check the soil to see if it is dry.
Areas of dense shade and poor air circulation may be better served with ground covers such as liriope.
It is common for us to receive a call reporting:
“I just can’t get enough water on my fescue to keep it alive…” only to make a site visit to find a thinning fescue lawn struggling with self-induced brown patch from overwatering.
Bagworm Alert!
Bagworms start out very small, so small you may think they are just another needle or leaf.
Bagworms started showing up this week. Right now they are so small that unless you are looking for them you won’t see them.
Bagworms, very small bagworms, are starting to feed on your plants!
Bagworm Info:
Early in the life cycle the worm inside the bag is very small, about the size of a pencil lead. Treatment with an insecticide now will be very effective.
Do you notice the slight color difference between the two junipers? The one on the left is covered with hundreds of very small, almost unnoticeable bagworms that are quickly destroying the mature Taylor Juniper.
Bagworms, very small bagworms, are starting to feed on your plants!
Bagworm Info:
¼”-2” long spindle shaped bag wrapped in the foliage of the host plant. Young bagworms are very hard to spot.
Favorite host plants are juniper, arborvitae, spruce, pine, and cedar. But they can attach themselves to any deciduous shrubs and trees.
Females lay eggs in bags left on plants over the winter. One female bagworm will lay as many as 500 eggs. The eggs hatch in the late spring and tiny larva crawls out and start feeding. As they feed, they use silk and plant materials to protect and camouflage themselves. Bagworms can strip a plant of foliage. They are active from late May through September.
Heavy infestations, particularly on the same plant year after year, can cause plant death.
When there are only a few, control is best by hand picking. If you have a large population an insecticide treatment should be made as soon as they are noticed. Try to remove any bags left on plant material in the fall. Bags left on the plant will serve as cocoons for females to lay more eggs. When removing bags, destroy them. Do not pick and toss on the ground as the worm will crawl back to a plant.
Do your landscape a favor this weekend…inspect plants for very tiny bagworms. Your landscape will thank you with healthy shrubs full of rich color and texture.
Anytime you have questions or concerns about your lawn or landscape, give us a call. Our goal is to help you have your best lawn and landscape!
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
June Lawn & Landscape Tips
Hello Summer!
June… a magnificent month for your lawn and landscape!
June is the month when both cool season and warm season turf look great.
June is the month when an abundance of perennials add color to the landscape.
June is the month when shrubs are covered with soft, tender new foliage and so many blooming shrubs are adding splashes of color.
June is the month summer blooming trees start adding color to our world.
June is the month to discover a new favorite tree, shrub, perennial or summer annual color. What will be your favorite this June?
Awe…June is the month when all your lawn and landscape work this spring rewards you with enjoyable evenings on the patio.
Wait…don’t get too comfortable, it is summer, and your lawn and landscape still need attention:
June is the month for day lilies to add splashes of color to the landscape.
Mowing
Good mowing practices will have the biggest impact on the quality of your lawn over the summer months. For the best summer turf, get into a routine of mowing often enough that you only remove 1/3 of the leaf blade with each mowing. For bermuda and zoyia, both warm season turfgrasses, this may require mowing every 4 to 5 days. If you mow this often, don’t bag your clippings. The top 1/3 of the grass leaf is 90% moisture and nutrients. The best summer height for warm season turf is 1.5 – 2.5”. Fescue, cool season turfgrass, will continue to grow rapidly during early June but once we consistently have temperatures in the upper 90’s it will begin to slow down. The best height for cool season turf in the summer is 3.0 – 3.5”. Both warm season and cool season turfs don’t respond well to being cut below their recommended height. Cutting the lawn too short discourages root development and having deep roots going into the summer heat is important for both warm and cool season turf.
Increase the mowing height on fescue lawns to 3” to 3.5” inches June and maintain that height through the summer.
Fertilizer
Bermuda lawns should be fertilized this month with a higher nitrogen, slow-release fertilizer. The goal in June is to create a healthy bermuda lawn that will thrive in the summer heat. Fescue lawns should only receive low nitrogen, root stimulating fertilizer during June to prepare them for the summer heat.
One of the biggest concerns we have for fescue lawns right now is too many are being cut too short. Cool season lawns will do better in the summer heat with more leaf space. If you have a fescue lawn, gradually raise your mower to at least 3” this month. I started mowing my fescue lawn a ½ notch higher in May and will increase it another ½ notch this week.
Endless Summer Hydrangea are gracing the landscape with their first blooms for the summer.
Weed Control
If you subscribe to Hall | Stewart’s Lawn Care Programs and have not skipped any applications this year, your lawn has had two pre-emergent applications. This will provide your lawn with a good barrier to prevent summer annual grassy weeds. But, if not, you may have some grassy weeds, the most common is crabgrass, showing up in your lawn. June is a good month to control grassy weeds while they are still young plants. Once they mature, stronger products will need to be used which can cause turf damage. If nutsedge is making an appearance in your lawn, it is best not to pull it. When you pull nutsedge and do not remove the nut below the surface, the plant becomes stressed and multiplies.
You can expect to see Black Eyed Susans, a perennial brighten the landscape this month.
Crabgrass is a very fast growing summer annual grassy weed. If you did not get a pre-emergent on your lawn early this year, you are almost certain to have crabgrass growing in your lawn. Treat now with a grassy weed control herbicide. If you wait until July to control, harsh products that will damaged desirable turf will have to be used.
Tree & Shrub Care
The best thing you can do for your trees and shrubs this month is give them your attention. Make it a routine to walk around the landscape looking for plants that just don’t look their best. Most insects are great at camouflage and are hard to spot before you have damaged leaves. Start watching for spider mites. If you notice pale and specked foliage, shake the leaves over a white sheet of paper. If you see tiny specks that start to move, you have spider mites and should schedule a treatment. Be on the watch for bagworms on needle evergreens. When they are young, they are hard to spot. If you notice your evergreens losing color, there is a good chance bagworms are the problem. With all insect and disease issues we subscribe to an integrated pest management approach. With our Tree & Shrub Program, we inspect for issues with each visit. Most problems are easier to control the earlier you notice them. If you notice any issues with your plants, please let us know.
If you notice pale or speckled foliage on boxwood shrubs, shake a branch over a white paper. If you see tiny specks that start to move, you need to spray for spider mites.
As temperatures warm up in June be on the lookout for aphids.
Soft scale can be a problem on Redbud trees. A small 1/16-1/8”, reddish, oval scale that is often found on small twigs and can cause small branches to die if not treated. A treatment plan in late winter with a dormant oil with follow-up treatments in late spring and early summer with a horticultural oil is required.
The lacy blooms of June are a wonderful contrast to the big leaves of the Oak Leak Hydrangea.
I’m always on the look out for new landscape plant materials. This year we have planted a few Orange Rocket Barberry. Typically Barberries have an oval or spreading growth pattern. But the Orange Rocket is known for its upright, compact growth habit.
June is the month an old fashion plant, Rose of Sharon, shows us why we should add tried and true plants to our landscapes.
Bag worms start out small and hard to see. Take time to inspect your needle evergreen shrubs this month.
Do your landscape a favor and keep an eye out for bagworms. They are much easier to control when applications are made early.
Bagworms start out very small and are hard to see. Take time to inspect your needle evergreens before they cause damage.
Annual Color — Sunpatien and Joseph’s Coat
Endless Summer Hydrangeas will make their first big burst of color this month.
Shasta Daisies, a perennial, will bloom from early June through mid-summer. They make great cut flowers.
Who can’t help but fall in love with Oakleaf Hydrangeas at this time of year. Their brilliant large flowers demand attention.
Later this month Mimosa trees will add bright pink, feathery flowers to the landscape.
Shrub Pruning
June is the last month to prune spring blooming shrubs. Spring blooming shrubs start setting flower buds by mid-summer. A few examples of spring blooming shrubs: forsythia, quince, bridal wreath spirea, and azalea. If the shrub is overgrown, use thinning cuts to reduce the size and increase air flow into the center of the plant. Make thinning cuts by removing branches back to the main trunk or another branch. If the shrub only needs a little shaping, make heading cuts near the end of branches. But, remember that all shrubs will perform at their best if they are allowed to grow without heavy pruning or shearing.
Planted in mass Stella D’oro Daylily’s add bright splashes of yellow to the landscape during June.
If your Azaleas have become overgrown or need shaping, June is your last chance to prune them before they start setting buds for next spring.
Our longest blooming plant, the Crape Myrtle, will start its summer long show this month.
Watering
“How much to water” may be one of the most misunderstood aspects of managing a lawn and landscape. Develop the practice of watering based only on need. During the summer months, anytime we get a ½” rain or more, turn your system off for a few days. Depending on afternoon temperatures, a 1” rainfall may save you a week’s worth of water. The converse is true as well. If we go a week without receiving a 1” of rainfall, you need to be watering. Another clue it is time to start watering… when you walk on the lawn, if the grass doesn’t spring back up and your footsteps remain in the lawn, it is time to start watering. Remember, deep soakings are always better than short, frequent watering. Shallow, frequent watering results in lawns with less roots and more dependent on water. Throughout the summer make it a habit to inspect your landscape and adjust. Don’t set your irrigation controller at the beginning of the season, never touching it again until the fall.
Trumpet Vine
By mid month Limelight Hydrangea and Hibiscus will be adding big blooms to our landscapes.
Mulch
Add mulch to your landscape plantings this month. A 2” layer of mulch will retain moisture, cool the soil, and reduce weed germination. We prefer premium shredded all bark cedar mulch because it doesn’t float as much and aesthetically looks great. For acid-loving plants such as hydrangeas and azaleas, pecan hulls or pine bark mulch is a great choice.
Endless Summer Hydrangea
Goldflame Spirea
Annual color planting of Joseph Coat, Sunpatien, and Marigold make a great yellow/orange color scheme.
Hardy Hibiscus
Brown Patch
Be on the lookout for brown patch in your fescue lawn. June is the most active month for this disease in fescue lawns. Anytime nighttime temperatures are 70 plus and the turf remains damp for over 6 hours at a time, brown patch will develop. Areas where there is little air movement and/or heavy shade are more prone because the turf stays wet longer. Brown patch will make the lawn appear it needs more water, but watering will just make it worse. So, before you water more, think about the site, the amount of shade, the air movement in the area, and the amount of moisture the area has received. The best thing you can do if this problem occurs is to stop watering.
One of the most self-inflicted problems with fescue lawns is watering practices that promote the development of brown patch. Always allow your fescue time to dry out between waterings. Avoid watering fescue in the evening during the summer.
If you subscribe to Hall | Stewart’s 7-Step Lawn Care Program and have fescue, you will receive a fungicide this month designed to suppress the brown patch fungus.
Brown Patch will make fescue look like it needs more water, but the problem is actually the result of the leaf blades staying wet for over 6 hours at a time when nighttime temperatures are in the 70s.
There are many varieties of Spirea’s with yellow and green foliage that put on blooms in the early summer.
Crape Myrtle
Yarrow is a perennial that produces yellow flowers in late May and early June.
Also, Cone Flower, another summer perennial will make a showing in June.
Oakleaf Hydrangeas with their lacy white blooms and large oak shaped leaves put on a show from late May through mid June.
Anthony Waterer Spirea is a medium sized shrub that is covered with pink flowers in late May and early June.
Aeration
Mechanical aeration is a “best” practice for any lawn. Aeration reduces soil compaction, promotes root development, and thickens the turf. May and June are the best months to aerate bermuda. This one practice will make a significant difference in the quality of your turf. The stronger the turf, the less weed problems you will experience.
Summer Crush Hydrangeas are a reblooming hydrangea that produces large floral quality blooms in your landscape.
Insects
Regularly scheduled treatments for fleas & ticks, mosquitos, and perimeter insect control around your house should continue during the summer. The goal is to make outdoor living for your family and pets the best possible.
Southern Magnolia trees produce large white flowers in early summer. Teddy Bear and Little Gem Dwarf Southern Magnolia are great plants for smaller landscapes.
Texas Red Yucca produce tall red flowering spikes this month. There are several varieties. Brakelights Res Yucca is a favorite.
Awe…may your June be filled with time outside, in your lawn and landscape, on your patio with family and friends, enjoying the beauty every day!
If you have any questions, please send us an email or call.
Oh, and when you discover something new and exciting in the landscape, don’t keep it a secret, send us a picture!
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
More perennials, please!
Over the years, I have become more and more fond of using perennials in the landscape.
In the early days of my love for landscapes, I was slow to add perennials because they don’t add color all season and often their foliage is unattractive after the blooms faded. When I did add a few, they always found their home in an out of the way, background location of the landscape.
I still believe annual color is the best choice close to the front door, along the front walks, and key areas around outdoor living spaces. Annual color is the best way to create a bright, welcome and season long statement in the landscape. But, more and more, I find myself adding perennials to landscapes.
What is the difference between annuals and perennials?
Perennial plants regrow every spring.
Annual plants live for only one growing season and then die.
Perennials usually have a shorter blooming period compared to annuals.
Great landscapes use a combination of both plants.
There are so many perennial choices. Every year, growers introduce new varieties of the old tried and true perennials. Every year, I enjoy trying a perennial I haven’t used in a landscape before.
I have my favorites. Favorites that have found a home in my landscape, and although none of them add color the entire season, it is fun to discover something new blooming in the landscape as we pass through the seasons.
Creeping Phlox (Phlox stolonifera).
The first to welcome spring each year. Creeping phlox produces a spring-like carpet in pastel hues of white, lavender, red and pink. Creeping phlox is a moderate grower that can spread up to 2’ but only reaches 4-6” in height. It prefers full sun but will tolerate some shade each day. Borders, walls, and around boulders are where it looks best. In my garden, you will find it cascading over a rock retaining wall. It tolerates most soils as long as it is well drained. The plant requires little maintenance. Mites are about the only insect problem it will have.
Creeping Phlox
Creeping phlox cascading over any landscape wall is a great way to say “hello” to spring.
Dianthus
Dianthus and Salvia planted along a flagstone walkway.
A must have perennial for cut flowers is Peony. With sturdy stems and spectacular blooms they not make April to early May pretty outside, but inside too.
Creeping Phlox
Creeping Phlox
Dianthus (Dianthus).
It works well as a border, in small groupings, around boulders or as a single plant reaching 10-15” tall with a spread of 12-24”. They bloom in late spring to early summer in rose, pink, white, red. They prefer areas where they will receive at least 6 hours of full sun each day but will tolerate some dappled shade or afternoon shade. Just like creeping phlox, they are a cool season lover. They will grow in most soils, prefer alkaline soils, but waterlogged soil will cause crown and root rot. Heavy mulching near the crown of the plant can be detrimental. Late March through April and into May is the peak bloom time. Light feeding in the spring with a complete fertilizer of phosphorus, potassium and low nitrogen is recommended. Other than an occasional aphid or powdery mildew issue, they do not have many problems. There are more than 300 varieties of dianthus to choose from. My all-time favorite is ‘Firewitch’. It has silver-green foliage and a vibrant pink bloom. One short coming – it is not uncommon for them to thrive for a few years and then gradually decline, so you may need to replant every 3-4 years. I have found this true with the dianthus planted in my front landscape, but at the same time, I have a planting of dianthus in my back landscape that has over performed for at least 10 years running.
Dianthus
Peony (disambiguation) –
Easily one of the most old fashioned, coveted perennials. With sturdy stems and spectacular blooms, a peony is a mut have in your landscape just for cut flowers in late April to early May. Peonies are a large, 2-3’ tall, bushy shape with deeply lobed leaves that make a great back drop for a border of groundcover, smaller plants or spring bulbs.
‘May Night’ Salvia (Salvia x sylvestris).
Sage type flower spikes of deep bluish-purple that will add color in April, May and early June. The best flower show will be in full sun, but it will tolerate a little dappled shade each day. The plant grows 12-18” tall with flower spikes reaching 24”. The plant looks great in the middle of the garden planted behind creeping phlox or dianthus, and in front of Shasta daisy or Black-eyed Susan. The leaves often become tattered later in the summer. Keep faded blooms removed to maximize bloom period and pruning the plants after blooming may result in a few fall blooms. In the early spring, before new growth emerges, remove the dormant foliage. Salvia tolerates clay soils but will struggle with root rot if the soil stays saturated.
With nearly 1,000 species new varieties and colors of salvia arrive every year. For the latest information on salvia introductions, visit Proven Winners https://www.provenwinners.com/learn/how-plant/salvia
Cutting Salvia back after it has finished blooming for the season.
From April through early June you can count on May Night Salvia adding deep blue to purple spikes of color to the landscape.
Pink Dianthus, May Night Salvia with Gold Moneywort ground cover.
Yarrow
Daylily
Daylily (Hemerocallis).
There are over 80,000 varieties of daylily. They come in nearly every color and shade of color you can imagine, ranging 10-36” tall and 12-24” wide. Depending on the variety, blooms start in early summer and extend into late summer with a successive blooming habit that lasts 4-6 weeks. They also are one of the most adaptable plants. They are very cold hardy and very heat tolerant. They are happy in almost every soil condition, clay, loam, dry, wet, low nutrient. They prefer full sun but will bloom in partial shade. With a clump type growth, they are dynamic planted in a mass grouping. Leave dormant foliage until new foliage emerges in the spring. Fertilize in early spring and again in early summer. Clumps can be divided every 3-5 years in the fall. Remove spent flower stocks to encourage more blooms. The most common yellow daylily is ‘Stella de’ Oro’. ‘Pardon Me’ is a great red daylily. Planting daylilies behind liriope (monkey grass) will help cover up the unattractive foliage as it begins to fade in late summer. Look around, daylilies started putting on their early summer show this week.
‘May Night’ Salvia
Dianthus and Salvia make a great combination to your May landscape.
May Night Salvia
Yarrow (Achillea millefolium).
I’m sure you have noticed yellow yarrow in landscapes for years, but more recently you are seeing red, white, pink and purple tones of yarrow in the landscapes. An early bloomer with ferny foliage that make a great addition in full sun landscapes. Plant in groups in the front or middle layer of the landscape bed. They are also great in a butterfly garden.
Yarrow
‘Cat’s Pajamas’ Catmint is a long blooming small mounding perennial that is covered with blue flowers from late spring through summer.
Daylily
Red Coneflower, Black-eyed Susan and Shasta Daisy
Banana Cream II is an improved variety of Daisy with lemony yellow flowers.
Shasta Daisy (Chrysanthemum x superbum).
Classic daisy appearance of white petals around a yellow center. They grow in clumps 1-2’ wide and 2-3’ tall. Best if planted in fertile soil that drains well. The more sun they receive the more they will bloom. Shasta Daisies start blooming in early summer and can last until early fall. They make great cut flowers. Keeping the faded blooms cut will extend the color show. After the foliage goes dormant in late fall, cut the stems back to 1-2”. They respond well to light fertilizer in the spring. Daisies perform best if they are divided every 3-5 years. Considered as a low maintenance plant, aphids are about the only insect you may see. ‘Becky’ is a favorite variety.
A newer addition to the Shata family is Banana Cream II. Proven Winners is a great place to learn more about adding daisies to your landscape. https://www.provenwinners.com/learn/how-plant/shasta-daisy
Black-Eyed Susan (Rudbeckia grandiflora).
Daisy like golden-yellow flower petals surround a dark brown or black center reaching 2-4’ and spreading 2’. The large flower blooms (2-4”) will be arriving in the next few weeks and will continue into July. And, if you keep spent blooms trimmed off, you will get a few blooms in the fall. Plant in sun to partial shade. As a native prairie plant, you will find it to be low maintenance. It tolerates most soils but prefers well drained. Because of its height, plant in the middle of a bed or as a background to lower perennials, such as dianthus or salvia. The plant can be divided every 3-5 years. Remove dormant foliage anytime in the fall or winter. It can develop powdery mildew if in too much shade. Minimal feeding is required. Keep a watch out for occasional aphid problems.
One of the best late summer blooming perennials is Black-eyed Susan.
Black-eyed Susan
Black-eyed Susan
Because of its height, plant in the middle of a bed or as a background to lower perennials, such as dianthus or salvia. The plant can be divided every 3-5 years. Remove dormant foliage anytime in the fall or winter. It can develop powdery mildew if in too much shade. Minimal feeding is required. Keep a watch out for occasional aphid problem.
Coneflower
One of the longer blooming summer perennials is Coneflower.
Coneflower
Coneflower (Echinacea).
A native prairie plant with purple or white blooms 2-4” in diameter. Just like black-eyed susan it reaches 2-4’ in height and spreads out 2-3’ and makes a good show planted in the back or sides of the garden. But, it also works well as a single specimen. Plant in sun to partial shade. It is one of the longest summer bloomers with a show that lasts 5-8 weeks. The coarse texture of the leaves makes them well suited near softer-textured plants such as ornamental grasses. It enjoys well-drained, fertile soil. Removing faded flowers will encourage more blooms. Remove dead foliage in the winter. Coneflowers are fairly disease tolerant and responds to feeding early in the growing season and also likes to be mulched.
Hardy Verbena (Verbena).
This low growing (4-6”) spreading (2-3’) perennial thrives in summer heat while producing purple, pink, red or white blooms. Verbena is not picky about soil type but requires full sun. When it gets more than 2-3 hours of shade per day, its biggest problem is powdery mildew disease increases. The low growing nature makes it perfect for the front of beds, along walks and cascading over walls and slopes. It also looks great in pots and window boxes. Good drainage and fertile soils needed and with consistent irrigation blooms and spread will increase. Feed in spring and after the first flush of heavy blooms. Don’t fertilize after July. Verbena likes mulch to insulate roots and hold in moisture. Shearing the plant just below spent blooms will encourage growth and more flowering. My favorite variety is ‘Homestead Purple’.
We think of Garden Mums as fall color, but they also bloom in late spring to early summer. After the early blooms fade shear them back to the shape and height you prefer and then don’t prune on them again after the 4th of July.
Garden Mum (Chrysanthemum x moratorium).
Typically thought of as an annual, but they make a great perennial for fall color with shades of pink, red, white and yellow. Plant height and width are both 1-3’ resulting typically in a round shape. They produce a wonderful burst of color for 2-4 weeks in late September and October. Mums will tolerate light shade but prefer full sun. To survive the winter as a perennial, they need moisture and good drainage. Therefore, add an ample amount of compost when planting in our clay soils. Dormant foliage can be removed anytime during the winter or in the spring when new growth emerges. Mums will bloom a little in the spring or early summer. Once the early blooms fade, keep the plant sheared to the shape and height you prefer. Stop shearing after the first of July. When you shear a mum during the last half of the summer, you are removing the flower buds for the fall.
Hosta (Hosta).
Monrovia.com lists over 78 varieties of hosta. This shade to partial sun loving plant is perfect for adding brightness to shady areas. Varieties range in size, but 12-14” tall and 30” wide is common. They prefer organic soil and regular watering when it is hot. Their leafy appearance is a great companion to ground covers. Monrovia calls them “the potato chip of plants…once you have one and watch how it lights up the shade you will want another.” One of my favorites is ‘Patriot’. I dare you to plant just one.
A favorite, Patriot Hosta, is a compact variety with glossy dark green leaves with white edges. It is also more heat tolerant than most varieties.
King Ostrich Fern
Fern.
Excellent for shade gardens and damp areas. They require frequent watering, especially in the summer heat. There are many varieties but for most gardens, ones that grow 18-30” with a 24” spread, are best. They are an easy-going plant that adds texture to the landscape. It is a great plant for filling in bare areas in the shade. Matteuccia struthiopteris ‘The King’ is a favorite Ostrich fern.
Coral Bells (Heuchera).
A great shade companion to hosta and caladium, but this perennial will also be happy planted in a little more sun. It makes a great border, a mass grouping, or plant a single plant as an accent. There are many varieties with colorful foliage to choose from. ‘Palace Purple’ has deep purple foliage which looks great planted with ‘Patriot’ Hosta.
Coral Bells
Coral Bell 'Palace Purple' planted as an accent with fern in a shady raised planter.
Gaillardia
The best time to add perennials to your landscape is spring and fall. But, you can find success adding perennials most anytime; just avoid the hottest days of the summer and the coldest period of the winter. My favorite time to add perennials is when I am planting my annual color in the spring or fall.
A great resource is Monrovia.com. https://www.monrovia.com/plant-catalog/
Another great way to learn more about perennials is to take monthly walks through the Myriad Garden and Scissortail Park to see what is currently in bloom.
What are your favorite perennials?
We are always on the lookout for new ideas.
Text or email us a few pictures of perennials blooming in your landscape!
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
One Easy Way To Make A Big Difference In Your Lawn - Don’t Bag Your Clippings!
You may have heard me tell this story before, but it is worth telling again:
The Tale of Two Very Similar but Very Different Lawns
In the late 1980’s, the full-service landscape management company that I started while in college provided landscape maintenance for two homeowner associations located directly across the street from each other in NW Oklahoma City.
The economics of the two HOAs were very different — resulting in a big difference in services:
The HOA on the south side of the street had a contract with two less fertilizer applications than the one on the north side of the street.
The one on the northside also required us to bag and remove the lawn clippings. The southside HOA’s budget couldn’t afford the extra expense for bagging and waste disposal.
The HOA on the north side had an irrigation system with nearly perfect coverage that ran every other day while the one on the other side of the street had an old inadequate system that we struggled to keep operating during dry spells.
Which HOA do you think always had the greenest grass?
Not the one with more fertilizer applications and more water.
The one with the greenest grass was the one that couldn’t afford to have their grass clippings bagged and removed!
NW OKC Bermuda lawn that is mowed regularly without clippings being bagged & removed.
Freshly mowed Bermuda lawn cut tight with a reel. Clippings were not bagged but a blower was used to redistribute noticeable clippings.
Why Does Not Bagging Your Clippings Make Such a Big Difference?
Grass clippings are 80-90% water and nutrients, mostly nitrogen. Every time you throw away a bag of clippings you throw away moisture and valuable nutrients.
You can gain one pound of nitrogen per growing season by returning your clippings to the lawn each time you mow. This is a significant amount considering most turf grasses require 4 to 5 pounds of nitrogen for optimal growth, density and color. Research at the University of Missouri and Kansas State University confirms that 25% of your lawns needed annual nutrients are contained in your lawn clippings.
Fescue lawn immediately after the lawn was cut. 1" of growth was removed. Clippings were not bagged.
If there you have noticeable clippings after you mulch mow, simply use your blower to redistribute clippings.
Mulch mowing leaves in the fall is beneficial for your soil.
Bagging your lawn clippings is like someone offering to give you free fertilizer, and you saying, “No Thanks!”
Decaying clippings will increase organic material in the soil. As clippings break down, beneficial bacteria increases. Healthy soils contain at least 5% organic material. Most lawns contain 2-3% organic material and research shows that consistently allow your clippings to return to the soil will increase organic material by at least 1%.
Bagging your lawn clippings is like someone offering to top dress your lawn with compost for free, and you saying, “No thanks!”
Mulching mowers, also known as recyclers, will nourish the lawn by cutting the clippings into smaller clippings and return nitrogen, moisture, and organic material back to the lawn.
Keys to Successfully Mulch Mowing
Mow frequently enough that you only remove 1/3 of the grass per mowing. For example: If your goal is to maintain your lawn at 2”, mow before your lawn grows past 3”. This may require you to occasionally mow every 4-5 days instead of the traditional once per week. When only cutting 1/3 of the growth, you are only cutting off the leaves. Grass leaves break down very quickly and do not increase thatch on the soil surface.
If you get behind with your mowing, raise your mower up and gradually lower it back down over the next couple of cuttings. In the worst case, bag the clippings one time and then return to mulch mowing as you regain a more frequent mowing routine.
Don’t mulch mow when the grass is wet. Wet grass clippings clump and don’t breakdown quickly.
Mowers designed for mulch mowing work best since they cut the clippings multiple times. If you don’t have a mulching mower, most brands have mulching kits and/or mulching blades you can add to your mower. And there is nothing wrong with just mowing without the bag on with most mowers.
Keep your lawn mower blade sharp. A sharp blade will cut the clippings finer instead of tearing the grass leaf.
When you finish mowing, if there are any noticeable clippings on your lawn use your blower to clean them up or if not too many, just spread them out.
One last exception, if you have weeds with seed heads, it is best to bag your clippings and remove the weed seeds from your lawn.
If you haven’t figured it out, I’m a big believer in not catching your clippings. It will make a huge difference in the color of your turf and the health of your lawn. And, when done correctly, you won’t even notice clippings.
If you mow your own lawn, give it a try.
If you hire someone to mow your lawn, give them permission to not bag as long as they do not leave behind any noticeable clippings or debris.
I know you will like the difference it makes on your lawn.
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
Nutsedge – Possibly The World’s Worst Weed
I have called many weeds “the world’s worst weed”, but If I am asked what some of the weeds are that give all lawn enthusiast the most difficulty, there is a 100% chance I am going to respond without hesitation: “NUTSEDGE!”
Nutsedge is fast growing, has an upright growth habit and light green in color. Because it grows twice as fast as your turf and is lighter, it ruins the best maintained lawns within a couple days of mowing.
Why is it time to brush up on your nutsedge knowledge?
Because the best growing condition for nutsedge is moist soil and after the wettest April in Oklahoma City history, we have the perfect conditions for a nutsedge battle!
Like most weeds, early action is best. Procrastination only makes winning the battle more difficult. With conditions right for nutsedge to be a bigger problem this season, we want to make sure you have the information you need to get ahead of the problem.
What does nutsedge look like?
Commonly called nutgrass because it looks like grass, but it is a sedge with triangular ‘V’ shaped leaf blade arranged in groups of three at the base.
Nutsedge grows faster, has a more upright growth habit, is lighter in color and has a thicker, stiffer leaf blade than your turf grass.
What are the best growing conditions for nutsedge?
Nutsedge thrives in moist, tight soils. It is common to find it growing in areas of poor drainage, around irrigation leaks, and in lawns that are watered too frequently.
Although nutgrass starts in overwatered lawns or areas of poor drainage, once it is established it thrives with normal irrigation, in dry lawns and even through a drought leading many to believe nutgrass has more to do with the soil structure than moisture.
Nutsedge also prefers full sun and doesn’t grow well in shade and typically isn’t a problem in shady lawn areas.
Nutsedge first emerges in May and continues to thrive until the first frost.
Why is nutsedge so difficult to control?
Nutsedge is a perennial weed. Perennial weeds are always more difficult to control. But, nutsedge is one of the toughest because it spreads by underground tubers. Four to six weeks after the first blades emerge, typically in late June to early July, nutsedge begins forming new tubers (nutlets) and rhizomes (underground stems).
The tubers grow 6-12” deep and are referred to as nuts - thus the common name of nutgrass. Nutsedge spreads by growing rhizomes which produces more nuts. Weeds that propagate through tubers and rhizomes are very difficult to control because unless you get control of the rhizome and tuber, the plant will sprout new growth within a few days. Also, tubers can remain dormant in soil for up to three seasons.
Hall | Stewart’s 7-Step Lawn Care Program includes nutsedge control. One of the benefits of subscribing to our full program is we do not charge extra for nutsedge control. Because we know the presence of nutsedge can quickly tarnish a great looking lawn, we use the most advanced nutsedge control herbicides available to the industry.
In late June to early July, uncontrolled areas of nutsedge will begin to multiply and take over areas.
What is the best way to control nutsedge?
Be proactive. With the first sign of nutsedge, take action. Nutsedge is much harder to control once it has been allowed to spread and mature.
Weed killers labeled for use on nutsedge will be either a contact killer or a systemic. A contact herbicide will kill only the leaves, and the tubers and rhizomes will remain active if you make only a single application. Systemic products will translocate through the plant to the tubers and rhizomes.
Key Point - A single applications of most herbicides labeled for nutsedge will kill the plant leaves but leave the nut unaffected.
Because it is neither a grassy nor broadleaf weed, common herbicides have little to no control. For nutsedge control you must search out products specifically labeled for nutsedge.
A few herbicides available at most garden centers labeled for nutgrass include:
Basagran – A second application must be made 7-10 days after the first application.
Image Nutsedge Killer – Requires a second application 3-4 weeks later.
Sedge Hammer Plus – Must have a surfactant mixed with the herbicide to be effective and a second application will need to be made in 6 weeks.
Ortho Nutsedge Killer and Gordon’s Trimec Nutsedge Plus – Both require follow up treatments every 4 weeks.
Please read the label and follow it. You need to know your turf type. Read the label to make sure you can use the product on your lawn.
Is pulling nutsedge a good idea?
Pulling nutsedge is only recommended when the plant is very small before nuts start to develop on the rhizomes (Best if pulling only occurs in the month of May). Once nuts start to develop, you must remove the nut when pulling the weed, which is typically 6-12” below the surface.
If you pull the weed and leave the nut behind, new plants will emerge very quickly. If pulling, the best method is to dig at least 12” deep and 12” wide to get all the tubers.
Research suggests that anytime the tuber is stressed, by either pulling the top off or by killing the top without killing the tuber itself (the result of a single application of an herbicide), the tuber multiples. Therefore, many people experience more nutsedge after they have pulled or sprayed.
Cultivating nutgrass, such as in landscape beds, is ineffective. All you are doing is redistributing the tubers and rhizomes.
One of the worse infestations of nutsedge I have experienced was in a lawn where an elderly man spent hours every week, all summer long, pulling nutsedge in his lawn. He said, “Nutsedge first showed up in my lawn a few years ago and the more I pull it the more nutsedge there is. It feels like the harder I work at pulling it the more I have!” I immediately responded, “Stop pulling it! Every time you pull it, the nut in the soil is stressed and in an effort to preserve itself, the nut multiplies.”
What else can I do to be proactive in preventing nutsedge?
Aeration is a great way to reduce the chances of nutsedge starting and spreading. Aeration reduces soil compaction and reduces the best growing conditions for nutsedge.
Our experience is lawns which are aerated annually rarely have nutsedge problems.
Water only based on need and infrequently. Overwatering, keeping your lawn too wet, promotes the best growing conditions for nutsedge. Water deep. Allow the soil surface to become dry between waterings.
Correct water leaks in your sprinkler system promptly. Nutsedge will stake a claim to any areas that become waterlogged.
Along the same line of thinking, correct poor drainage areas. Often patches of nutsedge are an indicator of poor drainage.
If you find yourself struggling with nutsedge, give Hall | Stewart a call, (405) 367-3873. The good news…. the Hall | Stewart’s 7-Step Lawn Care Program includes nutsedge control.
Nutsedge is one of the more aggressive and persistent weeds you will encounter.
Control of nutsedge can be a long process.
It is a marathon, not a sprint.
Success involves both the best cultural practices (aerating, watering, and mowing) and timely use of quality herbicides labeled for the control of nutsedge.
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
The Epic Summer Battle: Outdoor Fun vs The Mosquitoes. Coming Soon to Your Backyard!
April showers arrived in historic amounts.
Depending on where you live in the Oklahoma City area, you received somewhere between 10” to 15” of rainfall in the last 30 days.
That’s a good thing, right?
Yes, it is great to see the lakes, ponds and streams full. But there are downsides to periods of heavy rain.
One downside… The foundation of a healthy lawn, flower, shrub, and tree are healthy roots. Roots are the primary source of water, nutrients, and oxygen. Yes, oxygen. Plants breath through their root system. Plants can drown when all the air in soil is replaced by water.
Another downside... Nutsedge! Nutsedge thrives in moist, tight soils. It is common to find it growing in areas of poor drainage, around irrigation leaks, and in overwatered lawns. And right now, every lawn in the metro is overwatered.
But the peskiest downside of too much rainfall… Mosquitoes!
Mosquitoes spend three of their four stages of life dependent on moisture and what do we have an abundance of right now… Moisture!
We want your spring, summer and fall to be filled with outdoor enjoyment.
The key to more outdoor time is understanding the life of a mosquito, what you can do to win the battle, and how a mosquito control program can help you win the battle.
Hall | Stewart believes in an integrated pest management (IPM) approach to mosquito control. Success is equally the result of prevention and reduction.
The life of a mosquito –
The mosquito life cycle consists of four stages: egg, larva, pupa, and adult. The first three stages of their life are spent in water. Only adult mosquitoes live outside of water.
Egg Stage: Female mosquitoes lay eggs the surface of still water or a surface that is saturated. Any place where water is standing or is too wet is an invitation for a mosquito to lay eggs.
Larval Stage: The eggs hatch into larvae which live and feed on microorganisms in the water.
Pupa Stage: After the larval stage, the mosquito develops into a pupa . Pupae are comma-shaped and float on the water's surface, breathing through "trumpets."
Adult Stage: The adult mosquito emerges from the pupal case and rests on the water's surface while its wings dry and harden. Once ready, the male and female mosquitoes will then look for food and mates.
Adult females are the only mosquitoes that bite. They typically attack in the evening but occasionally are out during the day. Most afternoons you will find them resting in shrubs, trees and other shady areas.
After a female mosquito has obtained blood meal from a person or animal, they lay their eggs in water or a moist area where their eggs will receive sufficient moisture to hatch.
Typically, an adult mosquito doesn’t fly higher than 10-15’ and don’t venture more than a mile from where life began.
The entire life cycle from egg, to larva, to pupa, to adult, and back to an egg again only takes 4-5 weeks.
What you can do to win the battle –
Mosquito control is everyone’s responsibility when it comes to removing and eliminating larval breeding sites. All standing water is a desirable breeding ground for mosquitoes.
With mosquitoes spending three of their four stages of life dependent on standing water, anywhere water accumulates from bird baths, flowerpots, toys, poor draining gutters, a perfect playground for the insect.
The first step in mosquito control is to remove any standing water – pots, gutters, birdbaths, poor draining lawn areas, etc.
From March through November, any object containing 5–7-day old water is a potential playground for the pest. Even pet bowls can be a breeding ground for mosquitoes. Drain and refill pet bowls and bird baths every 3-5 days at the minimum.
KEY POINT: Routinely remove standing water.
Mosquitoes won’t lay eggs unless there is water.
Their eggs won’t hatch unless there is water.
The egg won’t become a larva unless there is water.
The larva won’t become pupa unless there is water.
Less standing water equals less mosquitoes.
Adult females are the only mosquitoes that bite. They typically attack in the evening, but occasionally are out during the day. Most afternoons you will find them resting in shrubs, trees and other shady areas. After they obtain blood meal from a person or animal they lay their eggs in water or a place where it will get wet. They prefer dark colored containers and shaded areas for egg laying.
What Hall | Stewart can do to help you win the battle –
Barrier treatments are the most effective and proven method for managing pests. A barrier can be made by treating all vegetation, shrubs and trees, from the ground up to a height of 10-15’.
Because adult mosquitoes often rest in the shade of plants, insecticides must be applied to both the top and bottom of plant leaves which is difficult to achieve with a traditional pump-up, handheld spray can.
Power backpack misters are the ideal equipment for barrier treatments as they force droplets into the vegetation and underneath leaves. Other common resting sites, such as under decks, gutters, and other moist shady areas are included in the treatment areas.
Hall | Stewart’s Mosquito Control Program uses two control methods:
An insecticide is used to provide an initial a quick kill and residual control of adult mosquitoes.
A larvicide is used to adversely effect the reproductive cycle of the mosquitoes by preventing larval development resulting in fewer adult mosquitoes.
Due to the short life cycle of mosquitoes, regularly scheduled monthly barrier treatments will provide a significant reduction in the number of insects.
Landscapes with an abundance of cool, shady and moisture areas benefit from the use of mosquito traps and mosquito buckets. If this describes your landscape setting, let’s visit how a more advanced process of mosquito control can help.
The battle is a team effort. You can win by reducing the breeding grounds for mosquitoes and by subscribing to the Hall | Stewart Mosquito Control Program.
We want you to have peace of mind when it comes to outdoor enjoyment this summer.
If you have not already subscribed to our mosquito control program, call (405)367-3873 or respond to this email.
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
May Lawn & Landscape Tips
May, the month that your lawn, your landscape, and your life transition from spring to summer.
As much as I love May, I’m not ready to leave April just yet, how about you? But, ready or not, here comes May!
May, another wonderful month to spend outdoors enjoying your lawn and landscape.
May, a month of pleasant evenings and gradually warming days.
May, the month the green of lawns become deeper and the colors of flowers become brighter.
May, the month your attention turns toward summer trips and activities.
But, let’s not jump too quickly to summer. There are several important lawn and landscape tasks to get your lawn and landscape ready for summer.
Turf Fertilizer – Bermuda lawns need a good feeding between late April and the end of May. Bermuda will respond well to a balanced fertilizer with at least 28% to 30% nitrogen and only a small amount of phosphorus and potassium. Fescue turf needs to receive one more fertilizer application between mid-April and mid-May to get them ready for warm days of summer. Once temperatures consistently reach 90 degrees, fertilizing fescue will do more harm than good.
Weed Control - Weeds that were not prevented, both grassy and broadleaf weeds, require additional treatment to control. Now that warm season turf is out of dormancy, control of weeds can be stepped up. During May, it is best to spot spray any persistent perennial weeds, being careful to limit turf damage. Remember, the absolute best weed control is thick and healthy turf.
Nutsedge
Nutsedge will start growing in lawns this month. Because there isn’t a way to prevent nutsedge, spot treatments can be expected. If nutsedge has been a chronic problem in your lawn, annual aeration will make a difference. Nutsedge thrives in tight, wet soils and since aeration reduces compaction, we find yards that are aerated annually have less nutsedge issues.
Maynight Salvia, the perfect name for the perennial that adds bright blues and purples to the May landscape.
Anytime we make an application of weed control or fertilizer, please let us know if you have any concerns 10-14 days after our visit. If the turf isn’t greening up properly, or if weeds are not wilting, we want to know. If you are new to our program, we know it will take time to get your lawn to the healthy condition you desire. But, we expect to make progress with each visit. We know this may require additional visits and if you are on our full 7- Step Program, we will make the needed extra visits.
Oakleaf Hydrangeas will start gracing the landscape with their white blooms this month.
Tree & Shrub Care – We subscribe to an integrated pest management approach. When it comes to insects and disease, you always have to be on the lookout. Take a few minutes each week to inspect your landscape for insects and disease.
Spider Mites – During the summer months when it is hot and dry, we are on the watch for spider mites, the Two-spotted Spider Mite. But, there is also the Spruce Spider Mite that is active in the spring and fall. They can be found on spruce, pines, junipers and arborvitae. It can cause considerable damage early in the season before we are even thinking about spider mites. The first indication of the Spruce Spider Mite damage is off-green color needles. Spider mites are not controlled by normal insecticides. If you try to control them yourself, you must use a product labeled as a miticide. Insecticides will not control spider mites.
The first indication of Spruce Spider Mite damage is an off-green color on your spruce, pine, juniper or arborvitae.
Bagworms - May is the month to be watching for bagworms on needle evergreens. Bagworms are quite easy to control when they are small. But, they are very hard to see when they first start to develop. If you notice bagworms, or have a concern about your plants, please let us know.
Bagworms
Spider mites are small and almost impossible to see on the plant. If you are concerned you have spider mites, shake the plant over a white sheet of paper. If the little specks start moving they are spider mites.
Be on the lookout for bagworms this month. They are much easier to control when they are small.
Leaf spot
Leaf Spot - Leaf spots will develop if we have periods of sufficient moisture and temperatures are just right for development of the fungus. The best host for leaf spot is an already unhealthy plant in an area with poor air circulation. Control includes spraying with a fungicide at least two times in a 10–14-day period, keeping fallen leaves picked up and disposed of, and thinning the tree or shrub to improve air flow.
Aphids – A small insect that isn’t easy to spot, but the honeydew, sticky substance they excrete is easy to spot. Aphids develop on the underside of leaves, often reaching large populations before you notice them. Early detection is important, and if caught early, a high-pressure blast of water may do the trick. As the weather warms, populations increase, and insecticide treatment will be needed.
Lawn Maintenance – Both warm and cool season turf grasses need frequent mowing now. One of the most important things for good turf health is to avoid removing more than 1/3 of the grass in one mowing. Not only does it not yield you the best-looking lawn when you cut below the leaf and into the stem of the grass, it also weakens the root system. Try to maintain your bermuda on the middle setting or just below the middle setting in May. For fescue, raise the setting one notch this month and cut the lawn 2.5-3” tall. By early June, it is best to have fescue at a maximum height going into the summer.
When mowing frequently, only remove 1/3 of the grass, don’t bag the clippings. Mulch them back onto the lawn. Grass leaf blades are mostly nitrogen and water and are very beneficial to the lawn.
Dianthus is a perennial that graces the May landscape with vibrant blooms and gray and green foliage.
May Night Salvia, Dianthus and Gold Moneywort make a colorful combination in the May landscape.
Full sun planting of lantana, penta, angelonia, and sunpatiens.
Sun Coleus
Fescue color is at its best this month.
Lantana and Sun Coleus make a great summer combination in full sun, hot areas. May is the month to plant them.
Seasonal Color – May is the month to plant your summer annual color. Most landscapes look best with a splash of bright color creating a welcoming environment near the front door. Impatiens and Caladiums are great choices for full shade areas. Begonias, petunias, and geraniums do well in sun to part shade. For full sun, periwinkle, lantana, sunpatiens, angelonia, sun coleus and penta are good at handling the heat.
Penta
Caladium
Clematis vines produce an abundance of showy flowers starting this month and continuing into the summer.
Take into consideration the mature size when planting seasonal color. The temptation is to over plant.
Irrigation – The last two weeks of April delivered on the promise of “April showers.” Hopefully, you are taking advantage of the rainfall and turning your irrigation off. Assuming normal temperatures in the 80’s, your lawn and landscape requires 1” of water per week in May. The best irrigation management is one that includes keeping an eye on rainfall, soil moisture, and temperatures. Monitor conditions, turn your system off if when are in a rainy period. Poor water management is setting the irrigation system at the beginning of the season and letting it run regardless of the conditions.
If you have subscribed to our Irrigation Management program with the Rainbird Wi-Fi Link, we will make watering decisions based on soil temperatures, soil moisture, temperatures, and recent rainfall and adjust your controller via the Rainbird app.
Moisture Retention – Tired of high water bills during the summer months? Hall | Stewart has a new program just for you, Moisture Retention. The program includes two applications (April-May & July-August) of a unique root zone moisture management product that reduces the overall watering requirements of your lawn and landscape resulting in less frequent watering. For more details, give us a call or spend a few minutes visiting our post from April 5th.
Peonies have started to add stunning blooms to the landscape.
Peonies not only add great color to your late spring landscape, they also make excellent cut flowers.
Endless Summer Hydrangeas will produce their first blooms this month.
Oakleaf Hydrangeas are adding flower buds now that will grace the landscape later this month with large white blooms.
The same plantings in July
Wisteria
Periwinkle
Remove the brown stems on your hydrangeas left from the winter back to the first bud this mont.
Azalea Care – Azaleas were stunning again this spring. Azaleas require a little more care, but they are worth it. Fertilize azaleas this month. After blooms fade and before the end of June prune azaleas if needed. Pruning after mid-summer will result in less blooms next year. Azaleas look best when minimally pruned and allowed to retain their natural shape. Prune by removing longer shoots by reaching down and making cuts where they come off a larger branch. This will improve air moment and promote healthy growth. Avoid shearing azaleas. Add a fresh layer of mulch to keep the soil cooler and retain moisture during the warm summer months to come. The best mulch for azaleas is pecan hulls or pine bark.
Oakleaf Hydrangeas add graceful white blooms to the landscape in May.
Hydrangea Pruning – If you haven’t already, now is the time to prune the brown stems left from the winter back to the first bud. In most cases this is the only pruning recommended for hydrangeas. During the summer, if you want to you can snip off spent blooms, but it is not required. Otherwise, keep the pruners and shears away from your hydrangeas. And…never prune in the fall. Need more information on hydrangea care, visit our recent post on hydrangeas.
Gold Mound Spirea not only add interest to the landscape with their foliage, they also deliver an additional touch of color with red-violet blooms this month.
If you have any questions, please drop us an email or give us a call at (405)367-3873.
Our mission is to help you have your best lawn and landscape…one that improves the appearance, enjoyment and value of your surroundings.
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
Aeration… the "Then Some” of Lawn Care
A good lawn is the result of several key activities:
1. Correctly timed pre-emergent applications to prevent weeds before they germinate.
2. Applying the right amount of fertilizer to ensure you have a thick and healthy turf.
3. Regularly scheduled mowing that only removes the top 1/3 of the leaf blade each time.
4. Infrequent, deep watering based on seasonal need.
But, there is a 5th activity that too often is overlooked.
George Toma, the greatest groundskeeper in the history of sports, has a saying:
“Do the job and then some. It is the ‘then some’ that
distinguishes the mediocre from the great.”
George Toma played a part in preparing the playing field for every Super Bowl until he retired after Super Bowl LVII at the age of 95. Toma is known as “The Sodfather!”
George Toma, presenting the keynote address at a turf conference several years ago, started his talk by announcing he was going to discuss the three most important things to have a great turf.
His 1st point was Aeration.
His 2nd point was Aeration.
And, you guessed it, his 3rd point was Aeration.
What are the benefits of aeration?
Soil compaction is reduced.
Air movement into the soil is improved.
Fertilizer can quickly reach the root zone.
Water runoff and puddling is reduced.
Roots grow stronger and deeper.
Thatch is reduced.
Reduction in weeds that thrive in compacted soils.
For George Toma, the “then some” that distinguishes the mediocre lawn from a great lawn is aeration.
Aerification is a must!
If your goal is to have your best lawn possible, aeration is a required step in your lawn care program.
What is aeration?
Aeration is the process of mechanically removing 2”-3” cores of soil, 4”-6” apart, from your lawn.
Compact soils prevent grass from establishing a healthy root system and prevent air, water, and nutrients from reaching the root zone. Walking, playing, and mowing (in other words everything you do on your lawn) increases soil compaction.
As Oklahomans, we know about tight clay, compacted soils. Our clay soils make growing a great lawn a challenge.
Too often we accept soil compaction as just the way it is and settle for the status quo of an average lawn.
Stop accepting the norm!
You don’t have to struggle with the results of growing a lawn in tight, compacted soil.
Golf courses typically aerate their turf at least two times per season. No wonder the fairways look so much better than most home lawns.
Lawns with compacted soil also are more susceptible to weed development. Most weeds thrive in tight compacted soil.
Nutsedge, one of the most difficult to control summer weeds, thrives in tight soils. Our experience has shown that annually aerated lawns have far less problems with nutsedge.
Why do golf course fairways always look so good? Turf managers know the importance of aeration. The secret to a great lawn is a great root system. Annual aeration is the ticket to a great root system.
Should the cores be removed or left on the lawn?
Leave the cores on the lawn. As they breakdown and dissolve, they will refill the holes with loose soil resulting in improved soil structure. The cores will break up and settle back into the lawn within a few weeks.
When should you aerate?
Warm season lawns (Bermuda and zoysia) should be aerated any time after spring green-up and before the end of July.
Cool season lawns (fescue) should be aerated in the fall, September through October. Aeration in conjunction with overseeding will not only improve the soil structure, but it will also improve seed soil contact resulting in better seed germination.
Now through the first half of the summer growing season is the best time to aerated lawn Bermuda, a warm season turf.
Nothing will take your lawn from good to great more than an annual aeration!
One more Toma saying… “The most important part of grass is the soil and the root system.”
Aeration is the best way to improve the soil structure and develop a stronger root system.
Aeration, the most overlooked lawn practice, will give you a healthier, more vigorous, less weedy lawn.
To achieve your best lawn, annual aeration is a must.
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
The Joy of Spring
What a week in the landscape!
Last weekend didn’t feel like spring. But, with one final, late cold spell in our rear-view mirror, the landscape has exploded with color this week.
The much needed rainfall has delivered us greener turf, more trees adding leaves, colorful perennials, bulbs, shrubs and trees in every pocket of the Oklahoma City metro area.
Every spring feels a little different. The timing of blooms. The length of blooms. Every spring another plant is going to captivate our attention. Every spring there is another plant that just seems a little more dynamic than it has ever been.
What are your favorite spring blooming plants?
Are you like me? Your favorite is, “All of them!”
Let’s spend a few minutes reviewing some of the tried and true spring blooming plants you can count on adding beauty and joy to our world year after year.
PERENNIALS
Creeping Phlox
Creeping Phlox. The first to welcome spring each year. Creeping phlox produces a spring-like carpet in pastel hues of white, lavender, red and pink. Creeping phlox is a moderate grower that can spread up to 2’ but only reaches 4-6” in height. It requires full sun but will tolerate a couple hours of shade each day. Borders, walls, and around boulders are where it looks best. In my garden, you will find it cascading over a rock retaining wall. It tolerates most soil if it is well drained. The plant requires little maintenance. Mites are about the only insect problem it will have.
‘May Night’ Salvia. Sage type flower spikes of deep bluish-purple that will add color in April, May, and early June. The best flower show will be in full sun, but it will tolerate a little dappled shade each day. The plant grows 12-18” tall with flower spikes reaching 24”. The plant looks great in the middle of the garden planted behind creeping phlox or dianthus, and in front of Shasta daisy or Black-eyed Susan. The leaves often become tattered later in the summer and become dormant over the winter. Keep faded blooms removed to maximize bloom period and pruning the plants after blooming may result in a few fall blooms. In the early spring, before new growth emerges, remove the dormant foliage. Salvia tolerates clay soils but will struggle with root rot if the soil stays saturated.
May Night Salvia
Dianthus. It works well as a border, in small groupings, around boulders or as a single plant reaching 10-15” tall with a spread of 12-24”. They bloom in late spring in rose, pink, white, and red. They like full sun but will take some dappled shade or afternoon shade. Just like creeping phlox, they are a cool season lover. They will grow in most soils, prefer alkaline soils, but waterlogged soil will cause crown and root rot. Heavy mulching near the crown of the plant can be detrimental. Late March through April and into May is the peak bloom time. Light feeding in the spring with a complete fertilizer of phosphorus, potassium and low nitrogen is recommended. Other than occasional aphid or powdery mildew issue, they do not have many problems. There are more than 300 varieties of dianthus to choose from. My all-time favorite is ‘Firewitch’. It has a silver-green foliage with a vibrant pink bloom.
Dianthus
Dianthus and May Night Salvia
SHRUBS
Forsythia.
Forsythia. Best grown as a specimen shrub where it can show off its naturally stunning shape. Forsythia’s brilliant yellow flowers are the first to welcome spring. It performs best planted in full sun and will grow in partial shade, only with less spring blooms. It is considered a fast grower. Forsythia adapts well to most soils but prefers well drained. It rarely has an insect or disease problem. Pruning should only occur after spring blooms fade. If you prune later in the year, you will reduce blooms the following spring. The best way to prune this shrub is to remove older wood all the way to the base of the shrub. Traditional forsythia will grow to 6-8’ with an 8’ spread and are well suited for large lawns. If you have a smaller yard, look for one of the newer varieties, such as Gold Tide (Forsythia ‘Courtasol’), a dwarf variety that only reaches 2’ high and spreads to 4’.
Bridal Wreath Spirea. A medium sized shrub with arching branches covered with an abundance of white cascading flowers in mid spring. It is a very hardy, heirloom shrub, with no specific pest issues that thrives in well drained soils. It attracts hummingbirds and butterflies. To preserve the natural arching shape avoid sheering but if pruning is needed, it is best done in the spring after blooms fade. It looks stunning planted in full sun to partial shade in front of darker structures or large hollies. Spiraea nipponica ‘Snow mound’ is another great variety.
Bridal Wreath Spirea.
Flowering Quince.
Flowering Quince. Another early bloomer known for adding splashes of red to the landscape. It also performs best in full sun and tolerates partial shade but with fewer blossoms. Considered a moderate grower and mid-sized shrub, most varieties reach 4-5’. It does best if planted where it can grow to its natural size and shape. If pruning is required, only prune in the spring after blooms have faded. Flowering Quince is loved by butterflies and hummingbirds. The plant is very drought tolerant once it is established and it will tolerate most soil, but like most plants would enjoy well drained areas. Another variety, Chaenomeles speciosa Double Take Series, has blooms that resemble camellias.
Flowering Quince buds are staring to pop.
Snowball Bush is another great spring show piece that is just starting to add interest to the landscape.
Snowball Viburnum. There are many varieties of viburnum, but the old fashion Snowball Viburnum with its masses of large, pure white, snowball sized blooms is still my favorite. Blooming from mid spring to early summer, if it wasn’t for the time of the year, it could easily be mistaken for a Limelight Hydrangea. A large shrub that can reach 10’ high and 10’ wide. Easy to care for. Tolerant of most soils but prefers well drained soils. Plant in full sun to partial shade. Oh, and it is perfect for cut flower arrangements.
Snowball Viburnum
Azaleas. There are too many varieties and nauseas to summaries in a single paragraph. But, right now, it is hard not to fall in love with azaleas. They are undeniably the most dynamic spring color plant for shady locations. And yes, you can grow them successfully in central Oklahoma, but they are not a no care, low maintenance plant. We often dedicate an entire article to growing azaleas in central Oklahoma this time of year. To learn more about azaleas, spend a few minutes reading our post from last April: https://www.hallstewart.com/hsblog/growing-azaleas-in-central-oklahoma
Shrubs such as Double Play Candy Corn Spirea add interest to the spring landscape as their new foliage emerges.
TREES
Oklahoma Redbud.
Redbud. My all-time favorite “Welcome to Spring” plant. (You can on us dedicating an entire article to Redbuds every spring.) Reddish purple blooms appear on branches before leaves appear. The ‘Oklahoma’ variety was discovered in the Arbuckle Mountains and known for its glossy, heart-shaped, green leaves in the summer. It grows to 15’-20’. Preferring full sun but does well as an understory tree in dabbled shade. For more Redbud love, visit our article from March: https://www.hallstewart.com/hsblog/the-redbud-oklahomas-state-tree
Redbud.
Oklahoma Redbud
Oklahoma Redbud
Redbud buds are swelling up!
Crabapple.
Crabapple. There are many varieties of crabapples, but ‘Prairifire’ is one of the best. It was the Oklahoma Proven tree of the year in 2007. It is disease resistant and not fazed by most of the problems with crabapples. Flowers of rose-pink cover the tree as soon as leaves emerge. Young leaves go from purple-red to dark green as they mature. Branches have red fruit in the winter. Mature, 20-25’, trees have a rounded top. Plant in full sun as a specimen tree or in a grouping. Water extra during periods of extreme heat or drought.
Saucer Magnolia.
Saucer Magnolia. A specimen type tree that reaches 15-20’. Large blooms put on a spectacular show on multi-trunk spreading branches. Blooms range from white to pink to purple. Best if planted in full sun. Plant away from radiant west or south heat where warm spring days may cause buds to develop too early only to be killed by a late freeze. They require regular deep watering in the summer months when leaves become tattered looking. It is best if their roots are protected with a layer of mulch to conserve water in the summer.
Red Baron Peach
Bonfire Patio Peach
Bonfire Patio Peach. With a mature height of 5-6’, its profuse early spring eye-level pink blooms are a real head turner. The dark red to burgundy summer foliage keeps the interest going all season long. The small tree performs best if it receives at least 6 hours of full sunlight per day.
Ornamental Peach Trees add shades of pink to the March landscape.
White Dogwood with Azaleas create a stunning color display in the spring in shady landscapes.
Dogwood. Great understory, slow growing, small to medium sized tree (15-20’) that is loaded with a four petaled flower in the spring. They grow well in shade to partial shade where they brighten the spring landscape with splashes of white, pink or red. Dogwoods need acidic, moist, well-drained soil, similar to azaleas.
A great understory tree, the Dogwood, adds color to shady landscapes in the spring.
The bright red spring leaves of Japanese Maples are sure to catch your attention.
Japanese Maples. Not a blooming tree, but with the bright color of their new spring leaves, it is easy to include them in a list of spring blooming trees. With so many shapes, sizes, and colors, there has to be a variety for nearly every landscape. Japanese Maples have been referred to as the “aristocratic” of the landscape. Several times we have dedicated an entire article just to the Japanese Maple. Click this link to learn more about them: https://www.hallstewart.com/hsblog/2020/4/19/japanese-maples-the-aristocrat-of-the-landscape
Japanese Blood Good Maple
Lace Leaf Weeping Japanese Maple
Spring Bulbs
One of my favorite ways to declare spring is Hyacinths, Daffodils and Tulips!
Last October we wrote about spring flower bulbs, “Plan Now. Plant Next Month. Enjoy Next Spring.” https://www.hallstewart.com/hsblog/plant-now-plant-next-month-enjoy-next-spring
If you were inspired and added spring flowering bulbs to your landscape, you are enjoying a spring full of color.
Don’t miss out next spring! Open your calendar right now to October and write “Plan spring bulb planting!”
A friend talked about being greeted with “What has brought you joy today?” at a local business recently.
What a wonderful greeting!
We hope, as the landscape burst with new life, you find joy in the beauty God creates for us every spring, without fail.
Don’t let the busyness of life rob you of the joy of spring!
Get outside. Go on a walk. Visit a park.
Add a new plant to your landscape!
The beauty of spring is all around!
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
The Cost of Watering vs Protecting Your Lawn and Landscape Investment
Awe…April showers!
We are so thankful for the good soaking rainfall!
Over the last 365 days, the Oklahoma City metro area has received a near normal amount of annual rainfall, approximately 34” of total rainfall.
But, if you talked to your lawn and landscape, they would tell you a different story. For them, total annual rainfall doesn’t tell the true story. Since June of 2024, moisture has been very sporadic falling in heavy rain events followed by extended periods of no moisture. Rainfall for the months of July, August, September and November all came in single rainfall events. Between the rain event in mid-September, until the early November rainfall there was a 40-day span without any moisture.
meteorologists tell the story that rainfall has been normal over the last 365 days.
Our lawns and landscapes tell a different story.
Let’s hear it for the return of Spring Showers!
Soon the summer battle will begin:
Cost of Watering vs Protecting Your Lawn and Landscape Investment
We all feel stress over the watering battle. The battle traps us in a cycle of watering one month, followed by an excessive water bill, followed by less watering, followed by signs of drought stress in our lawn and landscape, followed by increased watering, followed by an excess water bill…. the cycle never seems to end.
Water is the most abundant substance on earth, and ironically it’s our most threatened resource.
Is there another option?
Hall | Stewart set out to find another option last summer and experimented with Hydretain on a few lawns.
What is a Hydretain?
Hydretain is a unique root zone moisture management product that reduces the overall watering requirements of lawns and landscapes.
Hydretain is a blend of hygroscopic (absorbing or attracting moisture from the air) and humectant (helps retain moisture) components that attract moisture. In other words, it acts like tiny “water magnets” that form microscopic droplets within the root zone. It protects landscapes from drying out between rainfall and watering cycles. The result is a healthier, more vigorous and more drought resistant lawn and landscape.
Hydretain test plot
Hydretain advantages:
Maximize soil water availability and reduce irrigation frequency.
Manage soil moisture to help plants withstand periods of drought and watering restrictions.
Reduce water use and water cost.
Maintain a green lawn with less water.
Control or eliminate dry spot problems.
Enhance nutrient uptake.
Non-toxic, safe around pets and children.
Moisture is critical to the health of your lawn and landscape.
All plant processes require water. Without adequate water, plants cannot function or survive. Water facilitates a critical balance of moisture, air, and nutrients available to the roots. When soil begins to dry and roots can no longer absorb adequate water, plants enter drought stress. This process is not limited to long term drought or neglect. It happens regularly when soil dries between normal rainfall of irrigation cycles. Regular periods of drought stress impact the plant’s ability to defend itself against insects and diseases.
Results of Our Experiment Last Summer:
Lorne’s Fescue Lawn – Following an application of Hydretain in July and watering the product in thoroughly, the irrigation schedule was changed from an EVEN day watering cycle to an every FOUR day watering cycle.
One week after the application was made the lawn received ¾” rainfall over a 4-day period and then no rainfall for 15 days. In the 30 days after the application was made, the average high temperature was 95 degrees with 7 days 100 plus.
The fescue lawn maintained a consistent rich green color and showed no signs of heat or drought stress the rest of the summer.
The result was a monthly water bill 33% less than the previous July and August.
Lorne’s Fescue Lawn - Picture from last August, 30 days after Moisture Retention Application with every 4 Day watering cycle.
Tom’s Bermuda Lawn – The lawn was divided into three areas. One area received an application of Hydretain and was watered once per week with a hose end lawn sprinkler receiving 1” of water each time it as watered. The second area received an application of Hydretain but was not watered the rest of the summer. The third area did not receive an application of Hydretain and only received rainfall.
The area received a ½” of rain in mid-July and then went without moisture until a heavy rain in mid-August.
The bermuda lawn that was treated and watered maintained a green, thick healthy appearance through July and August. The area that received a Hydretain treatment but not watered retained a significantly more color and showed less drought stress than the area that was not treated.
Tom’s Bermuda Lawn Area 1 - Picture taken in August ‘24 one month after Moisture Retention Application, deep watering once per week.
Tom’s Bermuda Lawn Area 2 - Last August one month after Moisture Retention Application. Area received 1/2” of rain 3 weeks before picture was taken and without receiving any supplemental water.
Tom’s Bermuda Lawn Area 3 - No moisture retention application was made. Picture was taken the same day as Area 1 and 2 pictures.
Introducing Hall | Stewart’s Moisture Retention Program
Two Applications per Year Recommended: Spring and summer, approximately 90 days apart.
Application #1 April - May
Application #2 July - August
For best results, water immediately after application is made, or at least within 3-5 days. Water thoroughly allowing the product to completely penetrate into the root zone. It will not be functional until it is properly watered in. Delay mowing until the product is watered in.
For continued effectiveness, a Moisture Retention Application is recommended every 90 days.
The Moisture Retention Program does not replace the need for Lawn Care Applications. A proper fertilization program will enhance the results of a Hydretain application.
Is your lawn ready for a hot and dry summer?
Let us get your lawn ready with our Moisture Retention Program. You will save money and use less water.
Call (405)367-3873 or respond to this email with questions, to request a price, and/or to schedule our Moisture Retention Program.
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
April Lawn & Landscape Tips
Awe…April…there are not enough words to describe April.
April…the month the color of Fescue lawns become more vibrant every day.
April…the month Bermuda lawns shake off the winter brown and every day add more green.
April…the month you discover another perennial, shrub or tree is adding splashes of color every day.
April…the month you just want to be outside every day.
April…is the month something is coming to life every day.
April is a big month for your lawn and landscape. It is the transition month between cool weather and warm weather and so many important tasks need our attention.
The first purple blooms will grace wisteria vines this month.
What a spring for tulips! The colors have been spectacular and without extreme cold or hot weather they just keep going and going and going.
April is the month Fescue lawns make a big statement. If you have fescue it is time to start mowing every 5-7 days.
There are many varieties of Viburnum that grace the landscapes in April.
Henbit is a winter annual broadleaf weed know for purple flowers. If you want a clean lawn in April, don’t skip the two fall pre-emergent weed control applications.
April is the month Flowering Crab Apples shine!
Salvia start adding blue to purple spikes this month. May Night Salvia is a great companion perennial to dianthus.
Turf Fertilizer
Both Fescue and Bermuda lawns will benefit from a fertilizer application this month. If you subscribe to the Hall | Stewart 7-Step Lawn Care Program, your lawn will receive fertilizer. If you subscribe to our 4-Step Weed Control Only Program, apply fertilizer to your lawn this month. Look for a fertilizer with 25-30% nitrogen and a small amount of phosphorus and potassium.
It is hard to beat the deep green color of fescue in April.
Dianthus is a perennial that starts putting on a show in April.
Turf Weed Control
The second spring pre-emergent application started in March and continues through April. A second spring pre-emergent is important because pre-emergent herbicides gradually break down overtime. A second pre-emergent extends weed prevention through the summer months. April is a good time to get control of broadleaf weeds in Fescue, but while Bermuda is coming out of dormancy you must be careful with herbicide applications not to cause damage. Good turf development now is the key to a healthy lawn all summer and you don’t want to cause any harm while warm season turf is coming out of dormancy.
Our promise to you is to take all the steps we can to remedy weed issues in a way that is safe for your lawn and the environment.
Our request is that you always let us know how your lawn is doing 10-14 days after an application.
If the lawn needs to be retreated, results will be better if it occurs within 2-3 weeks of the initial application.
Poa Annua, annual bluegrass, is a winter annual that weed that is easier to prevent with fall pre-emergent herbicides than it is in the spring.
With soil temperatures in the mid 50’s, bermuda lawns are starting to green up. As soil temperatures reach into the 60’s, they will begin to actively grow.
In the right location, a place with dappled or morning sun with acidic, well drained soil, Dogwoods add a splash of brightness to the landscape this month.
One of the first perennials to bloom each spring is creeping phlox.
Tree & Shrub Care
April continues to be a good time to fertilize trees and shrubs with slow-release nitrogen, high quality phosphorus and potassium as well as micronutrients to provide consistent, extended feeding. This formulation is ideal for improving tree and ornamental development and vigor without unwanted shoot growth. Spring is also a good time to apply systemic insecticide to control sucking and chewing insects. As temperatures warm start inspecting plant material for insect activity. Early detection is an important part of insect control.
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape follows an integrated pest management approach, which starts with inspecting trees and shrubs and treating as needed.
Important: Unhealthy trees and shrubs, those that are under stress, are more susceptible to insect and disease problems. Put your plants on your calendar for a frequent inspection. Be ready to treat problems as they arise.
Need help protecting your landscape investment?
Give us a call, (405)367-3873 or respond to this email.
Our Tree & Shrub Care Specialist would love to make a visit to evaluate the health of your landscape plants.
Shrub Pruning
April is the last chance to do early season pruning on crape myrtles, hollies and ornamental grasses. On crape myrtles, remove any crossing or rubbing branches, cut off last year’s left-over seed heads, and any branches off that are smaller than a pencil. Overgrown hollies can still be reduced in size if you do it soon. The goal is to do any major pruning before the first heavy growth flush of the year. On ornamental grasses, cut them down to about 1’ before new growth begins to shoot up from the grass clump. Now that hydrangeas have started to bud, you can prune dead branch tips back to just above the highest bud.
For more information on Hydrangea varieties and care, visit our post from last week: https://www.hallstewart.com/hsblog/hydrangeas
Oh, the colors of new leaves on Japanese Maples!
Creeping Phlox, one of the first perennials to bloom, are putting on a show.
Deciduous (plants that drop their leaves in the winter) shrubs, such as abelia are coming to life.
Flowering Quince is an old fashion shrub that provides a show of red March to April.
Love peonies? Look for their blooms to burst open before the end of April.
Looking for a shrub that will add a fun splash of orangish red to your landscape in the spring? The leaves of Double Play Candy Corn Spirea emerge with a bright candy apple red and then mature to a bold yellow.
Lawn Maintenance
If you have a Fescue lawn, April is the month that you will need to start mowing regularly. Remember the rule of 1/3 – never cut more than 1/3 of the turf off in a single mowing. Anytime you cut more than 1/3 of the leaf blade off you are keeping your lawn from looking its absolute best. Start mowing the Fescue taller in April. It needs to have as much leaf space as possible going into the summer months.
If you have a warm season lawn (Bermuda or Zoysia) and have not already cut the lawn short for the spring, do so as soon as possible. Once the lawn starts growing it will need to be mowed every 10-14 days during a typical April. Try to keep your Bermuda lawns cut short early in the season by mowing often enough that you never remove more than 1/3 of the leaf when mowing.
Seasonal Color
We all have the tendency to get a little antsy and want to plant annuals a little too early. Who can blame you? With all the colorful plants already in the garden centers, it is hard to resist. Start with annuals that tolerate a few cool nights, such as begonia and impatient, and wait until May to plant heat loving annuals, such as periwinkle, lantana, penta.
Note: Go ahead and open up your calendar now and set yourself a reminder for next fall. Yes, next fall. We don’t want you miss out on planting spring flowering bulbs such as tulips, daffodils, hyacinths etc. You won’t regret it!
Oakleaf Hydrangeas are leafing out.
April = Tulips! Take a stroll through the Myriad Gardens this week.
Irrigation
As the weather warms in April, your lawn and landscape will start needing more routine watering. If we go more than a week without a ½” rainfall, you need to start watering. Remember to follow the odd/even watering restrictions. If you have a rain sensor, it will interrupt the cycle when we receive rain. If you don’t, please remember to turn your system off when we get a good rainfall.
If you don’t have a rain sensor, consider having one installed.
A sensor will pay for itself in water savings very quickly.
Creeping Phlox adds interest to landscape edges and stone borders.
Bridal Wreath Spirea brighten the landscapes this month.
Ornamental Peach trees are benefiting from the slow warm up this spring.
Flowering Crabapple trees are demanding attention in the landscape.
Maynight Salvia is one of the perennials that will add color this month.
One of my April favorites, Saucer Magnolia.
Start planning now to plant bulbs this fall for spring color next year.
April is the month azaleas dazzle us with an explosion of colors.
Now, go get outside!
The world is bursting with new life!
If you have any questions about your lawn or landscape, please send us an email or call (405)367-3873.
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
Picture of the Week:
Dogwood - Known for the graceful flowers that arrive around Easter every spring. They are a small tree that needs to be out of the full sun making them a great understory addition to your landscape.
Hydrangeas Varieties and Care
Hydrangeas have a reputation for being difficult to grow, fussy and high maintenance. That was true of old fashion, traditional hydrangeas that only bloom on last year’s growth. It was common for a late spring freeze to damage buds resulting in little or no blooms, or a pruning mistake would also result in no blooms.
But, the world of hydrangeas keeps changing…every season the hydrangea options get better and better. New varieties just keep coming. Take a stroll through a local nursery and you will be surprised at all the hydrangea options.
First Hydrangea blooms from last May.
The introduction of the Endless Summer Hydrangea in 2004 from Bailey Nurseries with the help of Dr. Michael Dirr from the University of Georgia resulted in what many claim is the best-selling shrub of all time.
The Original Endless Summer Hydrangea
Little Lime Hydrangeas is a shorter option for smaller gardens.
Dirr had been trying to develop a re-blooming hydrangea for years with no success. Then in 1998, Dirr was visiting Bailey’s test field where he found hydrangeas in full bloom…in September! Bailey Nurseries had been propagating and testing a plant they had found in St Paul, MN for 10 years with success. The plant was unique because it bloomed in the spring on last year’s growth, like a traditional old-fashioned hydrangea, and rebloomed on the new growth during the summer and into the fall.
Dirr immediately knew it was “a game changer” for hydrangeas and quickly coined the name ‘Endless Summer’.
Endless Summer Hydrangea will continue to bloom into the fall.
The Original — big round blue or pink blooms
Blushing Bride - pure white blooms that mature to a pink blush.
Twist-n-Shout — reblooming lace-cap in pink or periwinkle blue with red stems.
Bloom Struck — purple or rose-pink flowers with red stems.
Summer Crush — a 2019 introduction with raspberry red or neon purple flowers with a compact growth.
Summer Crush Endless Summer Hydrangea
Pop Star – Introduced in 2023, Pop Star is a compact, big-leaf hydrangea that only grows 18-26” high and wide. It is the quickest Endless Summer to rebloom.
Original Endless Summer Hydrangea in the fall.
The Endless Summer Hydrangea is like traditional hydrangeas in that they prefer morning sun and afternoon shade.
Want to learn more about Endless Sumer Hydrangeas? Follow this link: https://endlesssummerhydrangeas.com/
Another hydrangea “game changer” is the Limelight. Limelight is a summer blooming hydrangea that grows in full sun!
A plant breeder in the Netherlands crossed two unidentified panicle hydrangeas and the outcome was a full sun, summer blooming show in the hydrangea family. Limelight Hydrangeas received a US Plant Patent in 2002.
I first noticed them years ago growing around a parking lot in downtown Oklahoma City in the middle of summer with vibrant white blooms planted in full sun. Of course, I circled the block, took lots of pictures, and started my search to find the name of the plant.
Limelight has become one of my favorite plants.
Limelight varieties:
Limelight (Original) – Blooms in mid to late summer on new growth. Flowers start green, turn to white and then back to green. Limelight is typically large 6-8’ tall multi-trunked shrubs or can be trained into a single-trunked tree formed large shrub.
Limelight Prime – All the characteristics of the original but a little smaller, 4-6’, and sturdier stems. Also, the flower color is more vivid than the original.
Little Lime – Great for smaller gardens and small pockets in the garden. Grows to 3-5’ tall.
Want to learn more about Limelight Hydrangea varieties? Follow this link to a Monrovia article: https://www.monrovia.com/be-inspired/best-panicle-hydrangea-varieties.html
Limelight Hydrangeas make a big statement grown as a single-trunked small tree.
Bobo Hydrangeas are another dwarf variety of Limelight Hydrangeas. They grow in full sun to partial shade and produce large white blooms that turn pink. A characteristic of Bobo Hydrangeas is the strength of their stems. Unlike some panicle hydrangeas the blooms don’t weigh down the stems and flop over.
Limelight Hydrangea blooms gradually go from white to lime as they mature.
Limelight – Blooms in mid to late summer on new growth. Flowers start green, turn to white and then back to green. My favorite thing about Limelight is that it grows in full sun. A hydrangea game-changer: Summer blooming hydrangea in full sun! Limelights are typically large 6-8’ tall multi-trunked shrubs or can be trained into a single-trunked tree formed large shrub. For smaller areas, try the Little Lime or BoBo Hydrangeas which grow to 3’.
Limelight Hydrangea blooming in August in full sun.
Think you have to have a shady landscape to enjoy hydrangeas? Not the case with the Limelight Hydrangea. It grows in full sun with large lime to white blooms in mid-summer.
Fire Light Hydrangeas in the Myriad Garden in downtown Oklahoma City.
A late spring to early summer blooming hydrangea is the Oakleaf Hydrangea. The Oakleaf is one of only two hydrangea species native to the US in the SE from North Carolina, south to Florida and west to Louisiana.
Oakleaf Hydrangeas are named for the deeply lobed oak-like foliage. They grow 4-8’ tall and wide with a rounded habit. The white cone shaped flower clusters fade to pink in the summer and leaves turn deep red hues in the fall.
The Oakleaf prefers morning sun and evening shade. Too much shade and they become leggy, have fewer blooms and poor fall color.
Oakleaf – Instead of traditional mophead blooms, oakleaf hydrangeas have white clusters of cone shaped flowers. It is named for the large oak-like leaves that turn reddish-purple in the fall. It is a large shrub that blooms in the summer on new growth. It also requires less water than a traditional hydrangea.
Oakleaf Hydrangea
Oakleaf Hydrangeas is a large shrub that can reach 5-6’ with long, cone-shaped white flowers with large oak-like leavers that turn bright red in the fall.
Oakleaf Hydrangea in the Dallas Arboretum.
Oakleaf Hydrangea leaves in the fall turn vivid shades of red and purple.
Oakleaf Hydrangea with Endless Summer in the background.
Other favorite hydrangea varieties:
Annabelle – A smooth hydrangea with white blooms on the new growth. Because it is fast growing, it is common for this hydrangea to be cut all the way to the ground each spring.
Phantom – Similar to Limelight but with color changing blooms that start in mid-summer as greenish white then gradually change to a blushing pink as summer transitions into fall. Phantom also grows in full sun.
Seaside Serenade Series by Monrovia – A more compact form of hydrangea ideal for smaller areas that blooms on both last year’s growth and new growth.
Pruning Hydrangeas
Most gardeners feel uncertain and confused about when and how much to prune hydrangeas. The truth is most hydrangeas do not need to be pruned at all. Occasionally, you may need to prune for shape or size, or remove some dead wood, but most seasons pruning can be skipped.
It is common to have some branch die back after the winter in our area. A common mistake is to get in a hurry when pruning back the winter damage. Be patient, don’t get in a hurry to remove dead branches. Wait until April before pruning off the dead branches. Pruning earlier, or pruning to the ground in the spring, could reduce or eliminate blooming this season. When it is time to prune back the dead ends, make your cuts at an angle just above the highest green bud.
When more pruning is required, it is important to know the type of hydrangea you have to know the right time to prune.
Bigleaf, Mophead, French Hydreanes. They bloom once per season in the early summer on old wood, meaning their buds are formed on last year’s growth. Pruning should be done during the summer. If they have become overgrown, remove up to ½ of the total stems by cutting them all the way to the ground. The plant will produce strong new stems that will flower next season. Nikko Blue is an example of this type of hydrangea.
Smooth Hydrangeas. They bloom on new wood, meaning buds are formed on new growth in the current season. Pruning should be done in late winter to early spring. Older smooth hydrangea varieties can become floppy and unruly. Don’t be afraid to prune this variety aggressively. Annabelle is an example of a smooth hydrangea.
Panicle Hydrangeas. They also bloom on new wood. Panicle hydrangeas rarely need to be pruned. But, if they were overgrown last season, prune up to 1/3 of the plant before they leaf out to create a more compact, rounded shape. Limelight is a panicle hydrangea.
Oakleaf Hydrangeas. Oakleafs like to be left alone. Pruning should be limited to removal of dead or broken branches. They bloom on old wood, so if there is a need to prune to improve the shape of the plant, pruning should be done in the summer after it finishes flowering.
Reblooming Hydrangeas. Hydrangeas that bloom on both old and new wood. Early in the season they bloom on the old wood from last season. During the current season they bloom on current season growth. All they really need is deadheading of spent flowers and removal of dead stems. The Endless Summer and Seaside Serenade series are examples of reblooming hydrangeas.
Reblooming hydrangeas in June at the Dallas Arboretum.
Wait until late April to early May to prune the dead from your Endless Summer Hydrangeas.
Oakleaf Hydrangeas rarely have winter die back and are best left alone.
Leaving faded blooms on hydrangea will add interest changing color as they fade.
Deadheading Hydrangeas
Deadheading is the practice of removing spent blooms. You can deadhead hydrangeas, but you don’t have to. Deadheading can increase blooms but is mostly done to keep the plant looking neat. Some gardeners like to leave spent flowers on the plant for seasonal interest as they will change color as they fade. If you do deadhead, prune right above the first set of leaves below the spent flower. Cutting lower will remove emerging buds.
If you don’t deadhead your Endless Summer Hydrangeas the spent flowers will add color to your landscape in the fall. This is the Endless Summer Hydrangea in front of the Hall | Stewart office in October.
Planting Hydrangeas
Hydrangeas prefer rich, well drained soil in a location with morning sun and dappled to full shade in the afternoon and evening. The exception is the Limelight Hydrangea which can be planted in full sun. When planting in our tighter clay soil, start with a hole twice as big as the plant container. Incorporate compost and peat moss into the existing soil, fill the bottom of the hole with enough soil that the root ball will be slightly above the existing grade. Backfill around the root ball with the remaining mix of soil and amendments creating a ring outside the root ball creating area to retain moisture when watering.
Hydrangea Watering
Hydrangeas require more water in the heat of the summer. They perform best in soil that retains some moisture but does not stay wet. It is common for their leaves to wilt slightly on 90+ degree days and then rebound quickly when watered. A good deep soaking every other day in the summer is enough. A 2” layer of mulch will help retain moisture.
Endless Summer Hydrangeas are usually pink in our soils because of the pH being over 6. Sulfur can be used to lower the pH and turn the blooms blue.
Changing Hydrangea Flower Color
Excluding white hydrangeas and many of the new reblooming hydrangeas, soil is the greatest determinate to whether the flower blooms will be blue or pink. Soil with a pH below 6.0 (acidic) will have blue blooms. pH above 6.0 (alkaline) will produce pink flowers. Adding lime to the soil will change blue blooms to pink and adding sulfur will change pink blooms to blue. Endless Summer has a formulated product called Color Me Pink which adds lime to the soil to produce pink blooms and Color Me Blue which adds sulfur to encourage blue blooms. Similar products are avaible from Bonide.
Hydrangea Fertilizer
Hydrangeas respond well to fertilizer in the spring and early summer. Select a slow-release fertilizer that is high in phosphorus, the middle number on the fertilizer label. Phosphorus produces more blooms. If you fertilize with high nitrogen, the first number on the label, you will have more and larger leaves and less blooms.
Hydrangeas are starting to bud. Wait until April to prune. Prune just above the highest bud on each branch.
Bonus Info: “Why aren’t my Endless Summer Hydrangeas blooming?”
Pruning – The most common blooming problem is a result of over pruning and pruning at the wrong time. Remember, it is best not to prune them at all. Really the only pruning recommended is at the beginning of the season to remove the brown stems left from the winter. Wait until April to prune and then only prune back to the first bud. During the summer, if you want to you can snip off spent blooms, but it is not required. Otherwise, keep the pruners and shears away from your hydrangeas. And…never prune in the fall.
Fertilizer – Hydrangeas needing fertilizer or having been fertilized wrong will always disappoint. As mentioned above they need slow-release high phosphorus fertilizer. If you are using a high nitrogen, low phosphorus fertilizer, you will have lots of pretty leaves and no blooms. Just remember – use a fertilizer with a low first number and a high second number.
Water – The right amount of water will make a difference. You don’t want the plant to be too wet or too dry. It is ok if they droop in the afternoon heat, but if they are still droopy in the morning, they need a good watering.
Sunshine – Hydrangeas bloom best planted in morning sun with dappled afternoon shade. When planted in a hot location such as on the south or west sides of a structure, they need to be protected from the scorching afternoon sun. The bottom line is you don’t want them to fry, and you don’t what them to go without some sun.
Soil Problems – What you plant your hydrangeas in will impact the results. Hydrangeas require well drained soil with a good amount of organic material. In our native soils it is best to adjust the soil when planting with ample amounts of pine bark, peat moss, and/or pecan hulls.
This Endless Summer Hydrangea was added to the landscape last spring and the homeowner was rewarded with extra large blooms this June.
I believe that there is a hydrangea just right for nearly every landscape.
Yes, they require a little more work when planting, and a little more attention to water, but otherwise they are not near as fussy as you would think.
Survey your landscape.
Pick a spot.
Take a trip to a landscape nursery.
Select the perfect hydrangea for your landscape.
It’s worth a try!
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873