Spring Dead Spot – Oklahoma’s #1 Turf Disease
Oklahoma is in the transition zone.
What is the transition zone?
It is the zone between where warm season turf grows best and the zone where cool season turf grows best.
Warm Season Turfs: Bermuda Grass and Zoysia Grass.
Cool Season Turfs: Fescue Grass, Rye Grass, Blue Grass
The transition zone is an overlapping area where warm season grasses do well in the heat of the summer while cool season grasses do well in the spring and the fall, and some cool season grasses, such as tall fescue, continue to do well through most summers.
The transition zone is the area where you can’t go wrong growing either warm season grasses or cool season grasses.
Developing and maintaining a great warm season turf can be a challenge in the transition zone where winter temperatures often get colder than warm season grasses prefer and where it is common for an April freeze to stunt warm season turf green-up.
Consistently warming soil temperatures are critical for bermuda to exit dormancy and become active.
Even though spring green-up of bermuda came early this year soil temperatures still have not consistently reached the point that bermuda lawns are at the summer best. Challenging areas remain. Lawns with partial shade, where soil temperatures lag, are trying to catch up. Thin turf areas and lawns with weak root systems, are also lagging behind.
Our goal each week is to discuss the things we encounter while visiting lawns and landscapes. This time of year, as the warm season lawns are greening up, we get a lot of calls about dead spots in Bermuda lawns.
“What are all the circular dead spots in bermuda lawns?”
Is it grubs?
Is it damage caused by a weed killer?
These are common assumptions, but they are neither.
It is a disease…Spring Dead Spot.
Spring Dead Spot is widespread in Oklahoma and holds the title as the number one disease of bermuda lawns in the region. You can count on there always being some Spring Dead Spot, but some springs the disease is worse than others. When the fall, winter and spring conditions are right for Spring Dead Spot, any bermuda lawn in our region has the potential to be a host for the disease.
Let’s look at the history, symptoms, disease cycle, causes, and possible solutions for preventing and controlling this mysterious bermudagrass disease.
Spring Dead Spot patches will begin to grow healthy grass in the patch after a couple of years.
History
Spring Dead Spot has been a problem for a long time. The first case was discovered in Oklahoma in 1936 by a golf course superintendent following a harsh Oklahoma winter.
By the 1950s the unknown disease had become so prevalent in our state that Oklahoma State University plant pathologists began simply referring to the disease as Spring Dead Spot.
In the 1960s the disease became so widespread in suburban Atlanta lawns, particularly hybrid bermuda, that the University of Georgia launched a research program. After three years of research the university still didn’t know the cause and never could get the disease to reproduce in test plots.
In more recent years Oklahoma State University has focused research on the disease. What they have found is that the disease is tough to eradicate, tough to manage, and unpredictable.
Symptoms
Spring Dead Spot makes an appearance in the spring with ugly, rounded, bleached white dead spots in bermuda lawns. The spots range in size from a few inches to a few feet in diameter. If you dig up the roots in the area, they will appear black and rotting.
Damaged patches tend to recur in the same spots year after year. After a couple of years, the center of the spots will begin to develop a patch of healthy turf.
Spring Dead Spot typically isn’t active in newer lawns. It is common for it to first make an appearance 3 or 4 years into a new lawn. And just as strangely, the disease often becomes less active after a few years. All this just adds to the mystery of the disease.
This coincides with my experience: the disease is more common in newer neighborhoods and rarely found in older established areas of the city.
Because the pathogen causes rotting of the roots, rhizomes and stolons, the susceptibility to winter injury increases in the affected areas. The colder the winter or the harsher the April freeze, the more spring dead spot damage we see.
An example of healthy bermuda grass growing in the middle of a Spring Dead Spot patch.
Disease Cycle
In Oklahoma, the disease becomes active starting in September as soil temperatures begin to cool and reach 70 degrees and remains active through the winter if soil temperatures stay above 50 degrees.
Recovery starts in the late spring and continues through the summer as healthy turf around the Spring Dead Spot area grows into the damaged area.
Because the damaged spot often doesn’t have time to completely heal and develop strong roots, the same spots reappear each spring. Research shows the spots can reappear in the spring because of freeze damage even if the disease isn’t active that year.
Causes
The most serious Spring Dead Spot outbreaks occur in highly managed bermuda, often hybrid types. It is a common problem on turf that receives heavy nitrogen fertilizer applications, mowed at low settings, and receives frequent foot traffic.
The spring dead spot fungus attacks the roots, rhizomes, and stolons of bermudagrass during the fall and winter. This activity does not directly kill the plant but instead makes the bermudagrass more susceptible to freezing injury. As a result, spring dead spot is most severe in the northern range of bermudagrass adaptation and is usually more severe after extremely cold winters.
Any factor that restricts bermudagrass root growth increases its susceptibility to Spring Dead Spot:
Turfgrass that receives excessive late-season applications of nitrogen to extend green color are more prone to the development of Spring Dead Spot.
Potassium deficiencies.
Poor soil drainage.
Soil compaction.
Cultural Practices for Spring Dead Spot Management
No single management practice will provide complete control of Spring Dead Spot. The best prevention and control of Spring Dead Spot comes from practices that promote a dense turf and a healthy root system. Because the disease is more prevalent in tight compacted soils, which often have poor root systems, annual aeration is important as it will promote a healthy root system and lessen the probability of the disease.
Although the impact of soil pH is unclear on the development of Spring Dead Spot, an annual soil test to ensure the correct pH is maintained will encourage plant vigor and reduce turf stress.
Recovery improves with a fertilizer routine that ensures the lawn will receive 3 to 5 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet during the growing season with the first application being made in April to May as soil temperatures consistently rise.
Applications of more than .5 pounds of nitrogen after September 15 must be avoided. Some research shows that heavier applications of potassium in the fall promotes winter hardiness. Others believe soils in our region already contain sufficient potassium if the soil pH is near neutral.
The desire to have a green and actively growing bermuda lawn as long into the fall as possible may be the most common practice that leads to the development of Spring Dead Spot.
If you have small areas of the disease in your lawn, the best solution is to remove the soil in the damaged area to a depth of 12” and replace it with new soil.
Raising the mower height going into September will increase the leaf surface resulting in higher levels of carbohydrate reserves in the roots. The result will be more insulation for winter temperatures.
Spring Dead Spot after a few seasons of recovery.
Chemical Management
A fungicide applied in the fall as soon as soil temperatures fall to 70 degrees followed by a second application in 30 days may result in control of the disease. It is important to commit to two applications as research shows a single application is generally not effective. Spring applications of fungicides are not as effective as the disease is not active in the spring.
Keep in mind fungicide results can be inconsistent from year to year. Control through fungicides requires a 2-to-4-year commitment for consistent results.
Prevention and control of Spring Dead Spot can be tricky.
The disease can be very frustrating.
Everyone wants their turf to look the best, and if you have a bermuda lawn, there is always the chance Spring Dead Spot will make an appearance.
If you are experiencing Spring Dead Spot, keep in mind the best recovery occurs over time and with warmer temperatures. Don’t give up!
Commit - To best maintenance practices, including aeration, to develop a thick turf with a healthy root system.
Most Critical - Avoid the temptation to promote late season growth.
Remove & Replace Soil – The best solution is to remove 12” of soil in the affected areas and replace it with new soil.
Schedule - A fall fungicide treatment plan.
If you have more questions about Spring Dead Spot, or any other lawn care issue, please give us a call.
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
The best way to repair small areas of Spring Dead Spot is to remove the damaged soil to the depth of 12” and replace with fresh soil.
May Lawn & Landscape Tips
May, the month that your lawn, your landscape and your life transition from spring to summer.
May, a month of pleasant evenings and gradually warming days.
May, another wonderful month to spend outdoors enjoying your lawn and landscape.
May, the month the green of lawns becomes deeper, and the colors of flowers become brighter.
May, the month your attention turns toward summer trips and activities.
Hold on… it’s not summer yet and there are several important lawn and landscape tasks to get your lawn and landscape ready for summer.
The showy Forest Pansy Redbuds have a brilliant reddish-burgundy tone in May.
The tried and true ‘Stella de Oro’ Daylily will start adding splashes of color this month.
Turf Fertilizer
Bermuda lawns need a good feeding between late April and the end of May. Bermuda will respond well to a balanced fertilizer with at least 28% to 30% nitrogen and only a small amount of phosphorus and potassium. Fescue turf also needs to receive one more fertilizer application to get them ready for warm days of summer. Once we consistently reach summer time temperatures fertilizing fescue will do more harm than good.
Weed Control
Weeds that were not prevented, both grassy and broadleaf weeds, require additional treatment to control. Now that warm season turf is actively growing, control of weeds can be stepped up. During May, it is best to spot spray any persistent perennial weeds, being careful to limit turf damage. Remember the absolute best weed control is thick and healthy turf.
Nutsedge started showing up in lawns early this year and in the right growing conditions it will continue to grow through May.
Nutsedge typically shows up in lawns in May, but this year it started in April. Because there isn’t a way to prevent nutsedge, spot treatments can be expected. If nutsedge has been a chronic problem in your lawn, annual aeration will make a difference. Nutsedge thrives in tight, wet soils and since aeration reduces compaction, we find yards that are aerated annually have less nutsedge issues.
Maynight Salvia, the perfect name for the perennial that adds bright blues and purples to the May landscape.
So many perennials burst to life in May, one is the Shasta Daisy.
Anytime we make an application of weed control or fertilizer, please let us know if you have any concerns 10-14 days after our visit. If the turf isn’t greening up properly, or if weeds are not wilting, we want to know. If you are new to our program, we know it will take time to get your lawn to the healthy condition you desire. But we expect to make progress with each visit. We know this may require additional visits and if you are on our full 7- Step Program, we will make the needed extra visits.
Oakleaf Hydrangeas will start gracing the landscape with their white blooms this month.
Tree & Shrub Care
We subscribe to an integrated pest management approach. When it comes to insects and disease you always have to be on the lookout. Take a few minutes each week to inspect your landscape for insects and disease.
Spider Mites – During the summer months when it is hot and dry, we are on the watch for spider mites, the Two-spotted Spider Mite. But there is also the Spruce Spider Mite that is active in the spring and fall. They can be found on spruce, pines, junipers and arborvitae. It can cause considerable damage early in the season before we are even thinking about spider mites. The first indication of the Spruce Spider Mite damage is off-green color needles. Spider mites are not controlled by normal insecticides. If you try to control them yourself, you must use a product labeled as a miticide. Insecticides will not control spider mites.
The first indication of Spruce Spider Mite damage is an off-green color on your spruce, pine, juniper or arborvitae.
Bagworms - May is the month to be watching for bagworms on needle evergreens. Bagworms are quite easy to control when they are small. But they are very hard to see when they first start to develop. If you notice bagworms, or have a concern about your plants, please let us know.
Bagworms
Spider mites are small and almost impossible to see on the plant. If you are concerned you have spider mites, shake the plant over a white sheet of paper. If the little specks start moving they are spider mites.
Be on the lookout for bagworms this month. They are much easier to control when they are small.
Leaf spot
Leaf Spot - Leaf spots disease increases in May when it is common to have sufficient moisture and temperatures are just right for development of the fungus. The best host for leaf spot is an already unhealthy plant in an area with poor air circulation. Control includes spraying with a fungicide at least two times in a 10–14-day period, keeping fallen leaves picked up and disposed of, and thinning the tree or shrub to improve air flow.
Aphids – A small insect that isn’t easy to spot, but the honeydew, sticky substance they excrete is easy to spot. Aphids develop on the underside of leaves, often reaching large populations before you notice them. Early detection is important, and if caught early, a high-pressure blast of water may do the trick. As the weather warms, populations increase, and insecticide treatment will be needed.
Looking to add interest you summer shade garden? Impatiens (annual) will add a splash of color while Coral Bells and Hostas (perennials) will add a richness to the garden.
Lawn Maintenance
Both warm and cool season turf grasses need frequent mowing now. One of the most important things for good turf health is to avoid removing more than 1/3 of the grass in one mowing. Not only does it not yield you the best-looking lawn when you cut below the leaf and into the stem of the grass, it also weakens the root system. Try to maintain your bermuda on the middle setting or just below the middle setting in May. For fescue, raise the setting one notch this month and cut the lawn 2.5-3” tall. By early June it is best to have fescue at a maximum height going into the summer.
When mowing frequently, only remove 1/3 of the grass, don’t bag the clippings. Mulch them back onto the lawn. Grass leaf blades are mostly nitrogen and water and are very beneficial to the lawn.
Dianthus is a perennial that graces the May landscape with vibrant blooms and gray and green foliage.
May Night Salvia, Dianthus and Gold Moneywort make a colorful combination in the May landscape.
Full sun planting of lantana, penta, angelonia, and sunpatiens.
Sun Coleus
Fescue color is at its best this month.
Lantana and Sun Coleus make a great summer combination in full sun, hot areas. May is the month to plant them.
Seasonal Color
If you haven’t planted your summer color yet, May is the month to get it done. Most landscapes look best with a splash of bright color creating a welcoming environment near the front door. Impatiens and Caladiums are great choices for full shade areas. Begonias, petunias, and geraniums do well in sun to part shade. And for full sun, periwinkle, lantana, sunpatiens, angelonia, sun coleus and penta are good at handling the heat.
Penta
Caladium
Clematis vines produce an abundance of showy flowers starting this month and continuing into the summer.
Take into consideration the mature size when planting seasonal color. The temptation is to over plant.
Irrigation
Even though we haven’t received a good rainfall in the past 10 days, April delivered on the promise of “April showers” with the metro averaging 4.25” through the month. May is another month that both your lawn and landscape, as well as your bank account, will benefit from monitoring rainfall and adjusting your irrigation system. Assuming normal temperatures in the 80’s, your lawn and landscape require 1” of water per week in May. Anytime we receive a ½” or more rainfall, put your system on a rain delay or simply turn it off for a few days. The best irrigation management is one that includes keeping an eye on rainfall, soil moisture, and temperatures.
If you have subscribed to our Irrigation Management program with the Rainbird Wi-Fi Link, we will make watering decisions based on soil temperatures, soil moisture, temperatures, and recent rainfall and adjust your controller via the Rainbird app.
Moisture Retention
Tired of high-water bills during the summer months? Hall | Stewart has a solution for you, Moisture Retention. The program includes two applications (April-May & July-August) of a unique root zone moisture management product that reduces the overall watering requirements of your lawn and landscape resulting in less frequent watering. For more details give us a call or spend a few minutes visiting our post from April 5th.
Endless Summer Hydrangeas will produce their first blooms this month.
Oakleaf Hydrangeas are adding flower buds now that will grace the landscape later this month with large white blooms.
Hydrangea Pruning
Surprisingly, most hydrangeas handled the 100+ hours below freezing in late January well and started budding early due to the spring-like February weather only to be set back by mid-March’s hard freeze. Slowly over the last 30 days they started putting on new buds again. If you haven’t already, now is the time to prune the brown stems. In most cases this is the only pruning recommended for hydrangeas. During the summer, if you want to you can snip off spent blooms, but it is not required. Otherwise, keep the pruners and shears away from your hydrangeas. And…never prune in the fall. Need more information on hydrangea care, visit our recent post on hydrangeas.
Last year, I added a Summer Crush Hydrangea to my landscape. I’m anxiously awaiting the first blooms of the season in late May.
If you have any questions, please drop us an email or give us a call at (405)367-3873.
Our mission is to help you have your best lawn and landscape…
one that improves the appearance, enjoyment and value of your surroundings.
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
The same plantings in July.
Wisteria
Periwinkle
Remove the brown stems on your hydrangeas left from the winter back to the first bud this mont.
Azalea Care
Azaleas were stunning again this spring. Azaleas require a little more care, but they are worth it. Fertilize azaleas this month. After blooms fade and before the end of June prune azaleas if needed. Pruning after mid-summer will result in less blooms next year. Azaleas look best when minimally pruned and allowed to retain their natural shape. Prune by removing longer shoots by reaching down and making cuts where they come off a larger branch. This will improve air moment and promote healthy growth. Avoid shearing azaleas. Add a fresh layer of mulch to keep the soil cooler and retain moisture during the warm summer months to come. The best mulch for azaleas is pecan hulls or pine bark.
Oakleaf Hydrangeas add graceful white blooms to the landscape in May.
Gold Mound Spirea not only add interest to the landscape with their foliage, they also deliver an additional touch of color with red-violet blooms this month.
The Epic Summer Battle: Outdoor Fun vs The Mosquitoes. Coming Soon to Your Backyard!
Springtime…occasional rains, warming temperatures, green lawns, blooming landscapes, and the desire to be outside enjoying our wonderful world.
Awe, the makings of a perfect world…
And it could very well be a perfect world if it wasn’t for one problem… Mosquitoes!
4 Key Ingredients for Increased Mosquito Activity:
Heavy spring and summer rainfall.
Warm and humid weather patterns.
Stagnate water.
Unresolved drainage issues.
The size and intensity of the mosquito population from
year to year is dictated by the amount of moisture,
both rainfall and stagnate water, in the environment.
The key to enjoying our lawns and landscapes more this spring, summer and fall is understanding the life of a mosquito, what you can do to win the battle, and how a mosquito control program can help you win the battle.
Hall | Stewart believes in an integrated pest management (IPM) approach to mosquito control. Success is equally the result of prevention and reduction.
The life of a mosquito
The mosquito life cycle consists of four stages: egg, larva, pupa, and adult. The first three stages of their life are spent in water. Only adult mosquitoes live outside of water.
Egg Stage: Female mosquitoes lay eggs the surface of still water or a surface that is saturated. Any place where water is standing or is too wet is an invitation for a mosquito to lay eggs.
Larval Stage: The eggs hatch into larvae which live and feed on microorganisms in the water.
Pupa Stage: After the larval stage, the mosquito develops into a pupa . Pupae are comma-shaped and float on the water's surface, breathing through "trumpets."
Adult Stage: The adult mosquito emerges from the pupal case and rests on the water's surface while its wings dry and harden. Once ready, the male and female mosquitoes will then look for food and mates.
Adult females are the only mosquitoes that bite. They typically attack in the evening but occasionally are out during the day. Most afternoons you will find them resting in shrubs, trees and other shady areas.
After a female mosquito has obtained blood meal from a person or animal, they lay their eggs in water or a moist area where their eggs will receive sufficient moisture to hatch.
Typically, an adult mosquito doesn’t fly higher than 10-15’ and don’t venture more than a mile from where life began.
The entire life cycle from egg, to larva, to pupa, to adult, and back to an egg again only takes 4-5 weeks.
The mosquito life cycle repeats itself over and over starting in March and continuing until the first frost in November.
What you can do to win the battle
Mosquito control is everyone’s responsibility when it comes to removing and eliminating larval breeding sites. All standing water is a desirable breeding ground for mosquitoes.
With mosquitoes spending three of their four stages of life dependent on standing water. Anywhere water accumulates from bird baths, flowerpots, toys, poor draining gutters, a perfect playground for the insect.
The first step in mosquito control is to remove any standing water –
pots, gutters, birdbaths, poor draining lawn areas, etc.
From March through November, any object containing 5–7-day old water is a potential playground for the pest. Even pet bowls can be a breeding ground for mosquitoes. Drain and refill pet bowls and bird baths every 3-5 days at the minimum.
KEY POINT: Routinely remove standing water.
Mosquitoes won’t lay eggs unless there is water.
Their eggs won’t hatch unless there is water.
The egg won’t become a larva unless there is water.
The larva won’t become pupa unless there is water.
Less standing water equals less mosquitoes.
Adult females are the only mosquitoes that bite. They typically attack in the evening, but occasionally are out during the day. Most afternoons you will find them resting in shrubs, trees and other shady areas. After they obtain blood meal from a person or animal they lay their eggs in water or a place where it will get wet. They prefer dark colored containers and shaded areas for egg laying.
What Hall | Stewart can do to help you win the battle
Barrier treatments are the most effective and proven method for managing pests. A barrier can be made by treating all vegetation, shrubs and trees, from the ground up to a height of 10-15’.
Because adult mosquitoes often rest in the shade of plants, insecticides must be applied to both the top and bottom of plant leaves which is difficult to achieve with a traditional pump-up, handheld spray can.
Power backpack misters are the ideal equipment for barrier treatments as they force droplets into the vegetation and underneath leaves. Other common resting sites, such as under decks, gutters, and other moist shady areas are included in the treatment areas.
Hall | Stewart’s Mosquito Control Program uses two control methods:
An insecticide is used to provide an initial a quick kill and residual control of adult mosquitoes.
A larvicide is used to adversely affect the reproductive cycle of the mosquitoes by preventing larval development resulting in fewer adult mosquitoes.
Due to the short life cycle of mosquitoes, regularly scheduled monthly barrier treatments will provide a significant reduction in the number of insects.
Landscapes with an abundance of cool, shady and moisture areas benefit from the use of mosquito traps and mosquito buckets. If this describes your landscape setting, let’s visit how a more advanced process of mosquito control can help.
The battle is a team effort. You can win by reducing the breeding grounds for mosquitoes and by subscribing to the Hall | Stewart Mosquito Control Program.
We want you to have peace of mind when it comes to outdoor enjoyment this summer.
If you have not already subscribed to our Mosquito Control Program, call (405)367-3873 or respond to this email.
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
3 Keys to a Great Lawn -- #1 Lawn Care Applications
When it comes to having a great lawn, what is most important?
Lawn care applications?
Maintenance practices?
Environmental conditions?
All three are keys to a great lawn - Lawn Care Applications, Maintenance, and Environmental Conditions.
Great lawns are not a result of getting one, or even two, of the three correct.
Great Lawns are the result of all three.
Discussing the three keys to a great lawn is too much for one writing, so we are going to cover each key separately.
Today, we will cover Lawn Care Applications.
Next month, we will dedicate a post to how proper Maintenance impacts your lawn.
In June, we will discuss the impact Environmental Conditions have on the greatness of your lawn.
Lawn care applications are comprised of two components, fertilizer & weed control.
Fertilizer Applications – Healthy turf is the best prevention of weeds.
Weed control and fertilizer work hand-in-hand to produce a great lawn. Common weed problems are less in an actively growing, fertilized, watered, well maintained and healthy turf.
A healthy, properly fertilized, dense turfgrass can resist weed invasion and is more resilient to extreme heat, cold, and drought.
The three key ingredients in fertilizer are nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. All three are needed by your turf.
Nitrogen gives a lawn the best quality of color and density, but it is void in our soil. Therefore, it needs to be added the most.
Phosphorus and potassium are required for healthy turf growth but because they are present in our soil they do not need to be replaced as much.
Both bermuda and fescue are at their best when they receive a total of 4 to 5 lbs. of nitrogen per 1,000 sq. ft during the growing season spaced out over 4-5 applications. They just need fertilizer at different times of the season.
Bermuda, being a warm season grass, needs to be fed the most during the summer. The first application should be made within 2 to 6 weeks of spring green up. An application before the lawn has come out of dormancy is a waste of product and does not benefit the turf. The last application should be made by the end of September. Heavy fall fertilizer in an attempt to force growth and color deep into the fall can be a contributor to spring dead spot. Want to learn more about Spring Dead Spot?
Bermuda, warm season turf, looks best through the summer heat when nighttime temperatures are consistently 65+. Bermuda respond well to regularly scheduled fertilizer applications, high in nitrogen during the summer.
Fescue, a cool season turf requires a completely different schedule and thought process. Cool season grass is at its peak in the spring and fall. During the summer, growth slows, and the plant actually enters a period of semi-dormancy even though it never actually loses all its color.
Cool season turf needs fertilizer between the first of March and the end of May. This creates a strong healthy turf with the best opportunity of surviving the summer heat. High nitrogen fertilizer June through August can damage fescue. In the fall, September through November, resume fertilizer applications.
Fertilizing fescue in the summer will always lead to disappointment.
Fescue, a cool season grass, looks best in the spring and fall. Fescue lawns need the same amount of annual fertilizer as Bermuda, but it must be applied in the spring and fall. Fertilizer during the summer will damage a fescue lawn.
Weed Control Applications - Correct Timing of Weed Control Applications is Important
Three things you need to know about weeds:
Mature weeds are slower to respond to herbicides. Once a weed starts producing flowers they slow growth and don’t take in herbicides as quickly.
First - Knowing weed life cycle is important when it comes to prevention and control.
Annual weeds germinate from seed, grow and flower (produce seed) all within one year.
Perennial weeds continue to grow year after year increasing in both size and root.
Second - Identifying the type of weed, are either broadleaf or grassy, is equally important.
Broadleaf weeds are the easiest to spot because they look very different from grass. Broadleaf weeds have a stem with leaves attached.
Grassy weeds are actually undesired grass that grow as one single leaf. Grassy weeds are similar to turf grass. Often, they are not as noticeable when they are small but will destroy the aesthetics of a lawn as they mature.
Third – Weeds are either winter weeds or summer weeds.
With annual weeds there is a correct time to prevent and with perennial weeds there is a best time to control.
Annual weeds are easiest to prevent, but they can be very difficult to control when mature.
Your lawns’ best chance to be clean in the winter and springis by applying the fall pre-emergents.
Your lawns’ best chance to be clean in the summer and fall is by applying the spring pre-emergents.
Mature crabgrass is much harder to control during the growing season.
Because crabgrass and other summer annual weeds will continue to germinate through the summer, a late pre-emergent application is better than no pre-emergent at all.
Crabgrass, a summer annual grassy weed, is very easy to prevent with a pre-emergent applied in before soil temperatures reach 55 degrees. It is also easy to control when it is in the first stage of growth. This picture was taken this week and is the first crabgrass I have seen this year.
Most weeds littering lawns in the spring, such as henbit, can easily be prevented with fall pre-emergent herbicides.
A well timed lawn care program will result in your best lawn.
Persistence is a key to gaining control of weeds. Between keeping the area mowed and spraying with herbicides, control can be gained.
Winter annuals are prevented with a pre-emergent herbicide in late summer and fall. Summer annual weeds are prevented in the late winter and spring. Timing is the key to both. For the best results, the pre-emergent needs to be applied before the weeds germinate.
To prevent summer annual weeds an application must be made before soil temperatures reach 55 degrees for three consecutive days, which is typically in mid-March.
To prevent winter annual weeds an application must be made before the first cool spell occurs in late September to early October.
Commonly asked question: “Is it too late to start a lawn care program this year?”
No, it is never too late to start. Weeds will continue to germinate all summer. Turf development is important during the growing season. Starting a lawn care program at any point during the season is better than not starting at all.
Effective prevention of annual weeds is enhanced when a second pre-emergent application is made 45-75 days after the first application. Pre-emergent herbicides have a life. Depending on conditions, the product used and the quality of the application, pre-emergent herbicides will last 60 to 120 days. A second application creates a season long barrier of weed prevention.
When a weed is actively growing it absorbs herbicides much quicker. Once a weed begins flowering growth slows as it focuses on reproduction. During this stage weed control is possible, but slower.
Nutsedge is one of the difficult to control weeds that often requires additional treatments.
A proactive approach to weed control is two timely pre-emergent herbicide applications to prevent summer annual weeds and two timely applications to prevent winter annual weeds.
Hall | Stewart Lawn Care Programs, both our most popular 7-Step Weed Control & Fertilizer Program and our 4-Step Weed Control Only Program, include 4 pre-emergent herbicide applications each year, two in the spring and two in the fall.
But, not all weeds can be prevented. Existing weeds and perennial weeds require post emergent weed control applications.
The key to controlling perennial weeds and mature annual weeds is applying the right herbicide at the right time and the willingness to make follow-up applications when required.
Post Emergent Weed Control Takes Persistence
Poa annua, a winter annual grassy weed, thrives in thin turf.
The best defense against weeds is a healthy thick turf.
The best post emergent weed control is to never need it!
A properly maintained lawn, with good watering practices, healthy soil, deep roots, and timely pre-emergent applications in the spring and fall may never need to have harsher post-emergent herbicides applied.
But, until a dense, healthy weed free turf is achieved, fall (October-November) is the best time to control winter broadleaf weeds when they are small and actively growing. Spring (April-May) is the best time to control summer broadleaf weeds.
Post-emergent weed control is always more difficult when the weed is mature and flowering. Herbicides work by translocating through the plant. When a weed is actively growing, it absorbs the product quickly. Once the weed starts to flower (seed), it slows growth and focuses on reproduction. During this stage, control is much slower.
Difficult to control weeds, such as nutsedge, violets, geraniums to name a few, take time to gain 100% control. Follow-up applications are often needed. Persistence is the key.
Hall | Stewart Lawn Care Programs include follow-up visits when needed to gain control of difficult weeds.
Great lawns are the result of a properly timed weed control and fertilizer program that is tailored to your type of grass.
If you are not currently subscribing to a Hall | Stewart Lawn Care Program and have struggled with getting the critical timing right on your lawn, we would enjoy visiting with you.
If you are a Hall | Stewart customer, we look forward to every opportunity to be on your lawn helping you have a great lawn!
Next month –
Three Keys to a Great Lawn
#2 - Maintenance Practices
How cultural management and routine maintenance play a critical role in achieving a great lawn.
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
The Masters & Tips on Growing Azaleas in Central Oklahoma
This was a bucket list kind of week!
Wednesday morning at 5:30 AM, I was standing in the crisp morning air a few yards outside the north gate of Augusta National eagerly awaiting the 7:00 AM opening of the Masters.
The line was full of “bucket list checking” golf fans anticipating their day at one of the most coveted events in all of golf. For the over 40,000 patrons, Wednesday at The Masters, it was their chance to spend the morning watching a favorite golfer on the final day of practice and take in the afternoon Par 3 contest.
But, for me, it was a chance to spend the day walking the best maintained landscape I have ever set foot on. Yes, I enjoyed watching Scottie Scheffler play through Amen Corner. And yes, all the while, I secretly wishing I was standing in the middle of the fairway asking questions of the turf professionals in charge of creating such an immaculate turf. Through the day questions kept coming to mind I wish I could ask the turf pros, questions about their mowing practices, questions about how often they aerate, questions about their irrigation techniques, questions about the herbicides, about the fertilizer…..All day long, the questions never stopped running through my mind.
Excellence is inspiring.
Witnessing the world’s best golfers practice their craft is inspiring.
Walking turf so perfect that at times you thought “this can’t be real” is inspiring. (I actually overheard one patron telling another patron the turf was artificial.)
That’s the thing about excellence. It doesn’t matter if it is a professional athlete at the pinnacle of their career or it is the guy behind the scenes, the person who’s name you will never know, practicing his craft creating the world’s best turf, it is inspiring.
All excellence is inspiring.
My Day at The Masters was about more than turf.
Augusta National is known for its azaleas.
Just like Oklahoma, the weather in Augusta this spring has been warmer and dryer than normal resulting in an azalea floral display that was just past peak for Masters week.
I was asked if I was disappointed. The answer was yes, but only just so slightly. Even though the azalea show was just past peak, the excellence of the landscape did not disappoint. With over 365 acres of lawn and landscape, I did not witness a single unhealthy, less than perfect plant. Every plant was a specimen. At home, it doesn’t matter how hard I try; it always seems impossible to keep all the plants looking perfect. But at Augusta National, everywhere I walked, every direction I looked, the landscape was filled with wonderfully perfect plants.
A very good friend, who visited The Masters a few years ago told me, “You will not find a blade of grass out of place.” He was only half right. There wasn’t a blade of grass out of place and there wasn’t a shrub that wasn’t perfect!
August National’s commitment to an excellent landscape is inspiring.
Every year Oklahoman’s watch The Master’s and are inspired to have their best lawns and landscapes.
Common belief is that azaleas just don’t do well in central Oklahoma.
This is a myth. Azaleas can be grown in Oklahoma City.
But they require thinking differently about your landscape and a commitment to make it happen.
Azalea success in central Oklahoma won’t happen if you just dig a hole just anywhere in your landscape and drop in an azalea.
8 Things You Need to Know to Grow Azaleas in Central Oklahoma
Soil preparation is key. Azaleas require well drained acidic soil (5.0-6.0 pH). Central Oklahoma is known for tight clay alkaline soils (6.5-7.5 pH). The first step is to remove all the existing Oklahoma clay and replace it with a mixture of pecan hulls, peat moss, and pine bark. No soil. That is correct – azaleas do best when the native soil in our area is removed. My favorite mixture is 1/3 pecan hulls, 1/3 peat moss, and 1/3 pine bark. But you will have success with a 50/50 mixture of any 2 of the 3.
20 year old Hino-Crimson Azaleas planted in a raised bed in a mixture of pecan hulls, peat moss, and pine bark with all the native soil removed.
2. The size of the hole you dig is important. The standard for planting most trees and shrubs is a hole twice the size of the plant root ball. But when planting azaleas dig the hole 3 to 4 times the size of the plant root ball. You don’t need a very deep hole – it only needs to be 6-10” deeper than the level of the root ball once it is planted. Azaleas roots are shallow and like to grow out. So, think wide and not deep when digging.
3. Raised beds are best. Azaleas like moisture but they do not like to have their roots sitting in water. The best way to achieve a well-drained planting in tight soil is to raise the planting. A great option is to install a 4-12” stone boarder to gain height. Or incorporate a berm in the landscape planting for your azaleas. When placing the shrub, keep the top of the root ball 1-2” above the grade and gently slope your planting mixture away from the shrub. The number one reason azaleas die is from root rot.
4. Plant in the shade. Azaleas need mostly shade. They like the morning sun and filtered sunlight. A great place for an azalea is under large trees, particularly oak and pine. Pine needles and oak leaves will add acid back to the soil. If you lack large shade trees, plant them on the north and east sides of your home. Never plant azaleas where they will be exposed to the hot afternoon and evening sun. Also, avoid windy locations.
Red Ruffle Azaleas that have been lightly pruned over the years to maintain their natural shape.
5. Consistent water. When we are receiving sufficient rainfall azaleas do not need any additional water. But, when temperatures rise and moisture declines, regular watering is very important. Try to provide 1 – 1.5” of water per week during the summer months. Due to their shallow root structure, roots can dry out quickly. When temperatures are in the 90s or higher, water every other day with a deep soaking.
6. Avoid soil cultivation. Cultivating the soil will disturb the shallow roots. Control weeds by hand pulling and by mulching with 2-4” of pecan hulls, pine bark, or pine needles. These mulches will increase the acidity of the soil, cool the soil, and retain moisture.
Encore Autumn Ember Azaleas at the Hall | Stewart office this spring.
7. Correct pruning. Prune azaleas after the blooms drop in May or June. Do not prune after July 4th because you will be removing next spring’s blooms. Azaleas respond well to having branches that have grown too long pruned back to the branch. This will help maintain a natural shape of the plant and maximize blooms next spring. Sheering is not recommended. Dead wood can be removed anytime.
Azaleas just starting to bloom.
8. Feed them. Fertilizer applications after blooming in May and June are best. Fertilizing in early spring isn’t recommended as it will promote leaf growth and reduce the number of blossoms. Use an azalea/camellia/rhododendron food with trace elements for acid growing conditions. Miracle-Gro Water Soluble Azalea Plant Food and Ferti-Lome Azalea/Evergreen Food Plus are a couple of good examples.
Encore Azaleas have the added benefit of a fall bloom.
When it comes to azaleas, there are a lot of varieties and colors to choose from. Traditional azaleas that do well in Central Oklahoma include Hino-crimson and the Ruffles series. Over the past few years, the Encore varieties have become very popular and performed well. Traditional varieties are heavy spring bloomers. Encore Azaleas bloom in the spring with a second lighter bloom in the fall.
Here are a couple of good sources for azalea varieties: https://www.monrovia.com/search/?q=azalea and https://encoreazalea.com/the-collection/
I planted Hino-Crimson and Red Ruffle Azaleas at our house 25 years ago using the methods above. Every spring the colors are stunning. This time of year, you can’t drive down our street without slowing to steal a glance.
“Azaleas are the one plant that will cause a traffic jam.” Allan Storjohann
When planted correctly and maintained well, you won’t regret the time and effort you put into growing azaleas.
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
Picture from this week of a NW OKC landscape of Azalea ‘Hino Crimson’ planted in 2021 in a mounded bed of pecan hulls, peat moss, and pine bark.
The Cost of Watering vs Protecting Your Lawn and Landscape Investment
I don’t remember a time I was this thankful for April showers!
Finally, the break your lawn and landscapes desperately needed.
Oklahoma City typically receives 35” to 36” of rain annually and in the last 365 days we have 36.25” of rain. Right in line with normal annual rainfall.
But, rainfall over the last 365 doesn’t tell the real story…
The real story is our rainfall over the last 6 months is well behind normal.
The real story is our lawns and landscapes are drought stressed.
Moisture is critical to the health of your lawn and landscape.
All plant processes require water. Without adequate water, plants cannot function or survive. Water facilitates a critical balance of moisture, air and nutrients available to the roots. When soil begins to dry and roots can no longer absorb adequate water, plants enter drought stress. This process is not limited to long term drought or neglect. It happens regularly when soil dries between normal rainfall cycles. Regular periods of drought stress impact the plant’s ability to defend itself against insects and diseases.
The battle we all face: Cost of Watering vs Protecting Your Lawn and Landscape Investment.
We all feel stress over the watering battle. The battle traps us in a cycle of watering one month, followed by an excessive water bill, followed by less watering, followed by signs of drought stress in our lawn and landscape, followed by increased watering, followed by an excess water bill…. The cycle never seems to end.
Water is the most abundant substance on earth, and ironically it’s our most threatened resource.
Is there another option?
Hall | Stewart set out to find a solution to the battle in the summer of 2024 and experimented with Hydretain on a few lawns.
What is a Hydretain?
Hydretain is a unique root zone moisture management product that reduces the overall watering requirements of lawns and landscapes.
Hydretain is a blend of hygroscopic (absorbing or attracting moisture from the air) and humectant (helps retain moisture) components that attract moisture. In other words, it acts like tiny “water magnets,” that form microscopic droplets within the root zone. It protects landscapes from drying out between rainfall and watering cycles. The result is a healthier, more vigorous and more drought resistant lawn and landscape.
Hydretain Pro, the formulation Hall | Stewart uses includes humic acids, seaweed extracts and organic worm castings to increase microbial activity and enhance root growth. It ensures steady hydration by moving moisture through the soil and condensing vapor into water droplets, so nutrients are more effectively absorbed and retained.
Hydretain test plot
Hydretain advantages:
Maximize soil water availability and reduce irrigation frequency.
Manage soil moisture to help plants withstand periods of drought and watering restrictions.
Reduce water use and water cost.
Maintain a green lawn with less water.
Control or eliminate dry spot problems.
Enhance nutrient uptake.
Non-toxic, safe around pets and children.
Results of Our 2024 Experiment:
Lorne’s Fescue Lawn
Following an application of Hydretain in July and watering the product in thoroughly, the irrigation schedule was changed from an EVEN day watering cycle to an every FOUR-day watering cycle.
One week after the application was made the lawn received ¾” rainfall over a 4-day period and then no rainfall for 15 days. In the 30 days after the application was made, the average high temperature was 95 degrees with 7 days 100 plus.
The fescue lawn maintained a consistent rich green color and showed no signs of heat or drought stress the rest of the summer.
The result was a monthly water bill 33% less than the previous July and August.
Lorne’s Fescue Lawn - Picture from August 2024, 30 days after Moisture Retention Application with every 4 Day watering cycle.
Tom’s Bermuda Lawn
The lawn was divided into three areas. One area received an application of Hydretain and was watered once per week with a hose end lawn sprinkler receiving 1” of water each time it as watered. The second area received an application of Hydretain but was not watered the rest of the summer. The third area did not receive an application of Hydretain and only received rainfall.
The area received a ½” of rain in mid-July and then went without moisture until a heavy rain in mid-August.
The bermuda lawn that was treated and watered maintained a green, thick healthy appearance through July and August. The area that received a Hydretain treatment but not watered retained a significantly more color and showed less drought stress than the area that was not treated.
Tom’s Bermuda Lawn Area 1 - Picture taken in August ‘24 one month after Moisture Retention Application, deep watering once per week.
Tom’s Bermuda Lawn Area 2 - August ‘24, one month after Moisture Retention Application. Area received 1/2” of rain 3 weeks before picture was taken and without receiving any supplemental water.
Tom’s Bermuda Lawn Area 3 - No moisture retention application was made. Picture was taken the same day as Area 1 and 2 pictures.
Hall | Stewart’s Moisture Retention Program
Two Applications per Year Recommended: Spring and summer, approximately 90 days apart.
Application #1 April - May
Application #2 July - August
For best results, water immediately after application is made, or at least within 3-5 days. Irrigate thoroughly allowing the product to completely penetrate into the root zone. It will not be functional until it is properly watered in. Delay mowing until the product is watered in.
For continued effectiveness, a Moisture Retention Application is recommended every 90 days.
The Moisture Retention Program does not replace the need for Lawn Care Applications. A proper fertilization program will enhance the results of a Hydretain application.
Will your lawn be ready for a hot and dry summer?
Let us get your lawn ready with our Moisture Retention Program. You will save money and use less water.
Call (405)367-3873 or respond to this email with questions, to request a price, and/or to schedule our Moisture Retention Program.
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
April Lawn & Landscape Tips
Typically, as we transition from March to April, we are focused on Fescue lawns becoming more vibrant every day, Bermuda lawns shaking of their winter brown as they start to turn green, and the anticipation of more and more perennials, shrubs and trees adding color to the landscape every day.
But, this year is different. The warmest February in Oklahoma City history got spring off to a fast start, with only a couple of low temperature speed bumps since, spring has had its foot on the gas pedal all the way through March.
The speed of spring has everyone, including your lawn and landscape feeling as if March and April were squeezed into one month…possibly called Marpril.
Fescue regains a rich green color when soil temperatures are consistently in the 50s. Soil temperatures have been 50 plus every day since February 26th. In areas where soil moisture is good, since mid-March Fescue lawns have looked more like mid-April Fescue lawns.
Bermuda starts turning green and begins to grow when soil temperatures are in the 60s. Soil temperatures have been 60 plus since March 22nd. Bermuda green up is farther along this year than I ever remember.
One more weather item impacting our spring…the lack of rain. Normal Oklahoma City March rainfall is 2.5-3.0”. This March…the official rainfall currently sits at less than .25”.
Moisture is critical to the health of your lawn and landscape as it
transitions from winter to spring to summer.
Drought stress is the result of plants, and yes, turf grass is included, desiring more water than is available. When they can’t get enough water, the plant starts expiring and starts shutting down. Photosynthesis stops. Leaf tissue desiccates…which is why some fescue lawns still lack a rich green color when temperatures and sunlight suggest their color should be dynamic. Root loss occurs which reduces the ability for the plant to take up moisture when it returns.
April is a big month for your lawn and landscape with so many important tasks that need our attention. Add drought stress and paying attention to your lawn and landscape this April is more critical than ever. Tasks this April will have an impact on the health of your environment this summer.
Let’s start with the most critical…moisture:
With the warm February-March followed by the hard freeze two weeks ago it hasn’t been the most spectacular tulip season, but any burst of color tulips provide are always a favorite part of spring.
April is the month Fescue lawns make a big statement. If you have fescue it is time to start mowing every 5-7 days.
There are many varieties of Viburnum that grace the landscapes in April.
The first purple blooms will grace wisteria vines this month.
Henbit is a winter annual broadleaf weed know for purple flowers. If you want a clean lawn in April, don’t skip the two fall pre-emergent weed control applications.
Salvia start adding blue to purple spikes this month. May Night Salvia is a great companion perennial to dianthus.
Dianthus is a perennial that starts putting on a show in April.
Irrigation
In April, the goal is to make sure your lawn and landscape receives ½” of water each week. Average April rainfall in the metro area is 3.0-3.5”. Most April’s your irrigation system will be off more than it is on, but please don’t assume. If you have not started watering your lawn and landscape yet this spring, start now. Monitor rainfall. Turn the system off or put it on a rain delay if we get a ½” rainfall or more. Poor water management is the practice of placing your irrigation on an every other day cycle at the beginning of the season and leaving it that way until you turn it off in the fall. The best lawns and landscapes are watered based on need, regardless of the time of year. Right now, they need moisture, badly.
If you don’t have a rain sensor, consider having one installed.
A sensor will pay for itself in water savings very quickly.
It has been common to find very dry soil cores this spring while inspecting lawns and landscapes. Please water now. Our lawns and landscape are experiencing drought stress.
It is hard to beat the deep green color of fescue in April.
Turf Fertilizer
Both Fescue and Bermuda lawns will benefit from a fertilizer application this month. If you subscribe to the Hall | Stewart 7-Step Lawn Care Program your lawn will receive fertilizer. If you subscribe to our 4-Step Weed Control Only Program, apply fertilizer to your lawn this month. Look for fertilizer with 25-30% nitrogen and a small amount of phosphorus and potassium.
Poa Annua, annual bluegrass, is a winter annual that weed that is easier to prevent with fall pre-emergent herbicides than it is in the spring.
In the right location, a place with dappled or morning sun with acidic, well drained soil, Dogwoods add a splash of brightness to the landscape this month.
One of the first perennials to bloom each spring is creeping phlox.
Turf Weed Control
The second spring pre-emergent application started in March and continues through April. A second spring pre-emergent is important because pre-emergent herbicides gradually break down overtime. A second pre-emergent extends weed prevention through the summer months. April is a good time to get control of broadleaf weeds in Fescue, but while Bermuda is coming out of dormancy, you must be careful with herbicide applications not to cause damage. Good turf development now is the key to a healthy lawn all summer. You don’t want to cause any harm while warm season turf is coming out of dormancy.
Our promise to you is to take all the steps we can to remedy weed issues in a way that is safe for your lawn and the environment.
Our request is that you always let us know how your lawn is doing 10-14 days after an application.
If the lawn needs to be retreated, results will be better if it occurs within 2-3 weeks of the initial application.
Lawn Maintenance
If you have a Fescue lawn, April is the month that you will need to start mowing regularly. Remember the rule of 1/3 – never cut more than 1/3 of the turf off in a single mowing. Anytime you cut more than 1/3 of the leaf blade off you are keeping your lawn from looking its absolute best. Start mowing the Fescue taller in April. It needs to have as much leaf space as possible going into the summer months.
If you have a warm season lawn (Bermuda or Zoysia) and have not already cut the lawn short for the spring, do so as soon as possible. Once the lawn starts growing it will need to be mowed every 10-14 days during a typical April. Try to keep your Bermuda lawns cut short early in the season by mowing often enough that you never remove more than 1/3 of the leaf when mowing.
Oh, the colors of new leaves on Japanese Maples!
Deciduous (plants that drop their leaves in the winter) shrubs, such as abelia are coming to life.
Flowering Quince is an old fashion shrub that provides a show of red March to April.
Love peonies? Look for their blooms to burst open before the end of April.
Looking for a shrub that will add a fun splash of orangish red to your landscape in the spring? The leaves of Double Play Candy Corn Spirea emerge with a bright candy apple red and then mature to a bold yellow.
The tender new growth on boxwoods was nipped back by the freeze two weeks ago. Boxwoods are resilient and are already flushing out new growth.
Tree & Shrub Care
April is the best time to fertilize trees and shrubs with a high quality micro-nutrient fertilizer to provide consistent, extended feeding for your plants. Our product improves soil structure, reduces plant stress, increases soil water retention, and promotes root growth and plant vigor without excessive shoot growth. Spring is also a good time to apply systemic insecticide to control sucking and chewing insects. As temperatures warm start inspecting plant material for insect activity. Early detection is an important part of insect control.
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape follows an integrated pest management approach, which starts with inspecting trees and shrubs and treating as needed.
Important: Trees and shrubs that have been exposed to drought stress are more susceptible to insect and disease problems. Due to the dry winter and spring, your landscape investment will need frequent inspection this year.
Need help protecting your landscape investment?
Give us a call, (405)367-3873 or reply to this email.
Our Tree & Shrub Care Specialist would love to make a visit to evaluate the health of your landscape plants.
Shrub Pruning
April is the last chance to do early season pruning on crape myrtles. Remove any crossing or rubbing branches, cut off last year’s left-over seed heads, and any branches that are smaller than a pencil. Overgrown hollies can still be reduced in size if you do it soon. The goal is to do any major pruning before the first heavy growth flush of the year. On ornamental grasses cut them down to about 1’ before new growth begins to shoot up from the grass clump. If new growth has started only remove the brown, winter damaged top of the plant leaving the new growth untouched.
Hydrangeas started to bud earlier than normal this spring. Endless Summer Hydrangeas took the freeze two weeks ago really hard. Give them a couple more weeks to put on new buds before you trim what appear to be dead branches. Mid to late month, prune dead branch tips back to just above the highest bud.
For more information on Hydrangea varieties and care, visit our post from last week.
Oakleaf Hydrangeas are leafing out.
Seasonal Color
We all have the tendency to get a little antsy and want to plant annuals a little too early. Who can blame you? With all the colorful plants already in the garden centers, it is hard to resist. Start with annuals that tolerate a few cool nights, such as begonia and impatient, and wait until May to plant heat loving annuals, such as periwinkle, lantana, penta.
Note: Go ahead and open up your calendar now and set yourself a reminder for next fall. Yes, next fall. We don’t want you miss out on planting spring flowering bulbs such as tulips, daffodils, hyacinths etc. You won’t regret it!
Creeping Phlox adds interest to landscape edges and stone borders.
Bridal Wreath Spirea brighten the landscapes this month.
Many Endless Summer Hydrangeas had early fresh buds when we had a 23 degree night two weeks ago damaging the new growth. Good news…they have started to bud again. Give them another two weeks and then prune off dead branches back to the highest bud.
Ornamental Peach trees are benefiting from the slow warm up this spring.
Flowering Crabapple trees are demanding attention in the landscape.
Maynight Salvia is one of the perennials that will add color this month.
One of my April favorites, Saucer Magnolia.
Start planning now to plant bulbs this fall for spring color next year.
Azaleas are in full bloom around the metro, a couple of weeks earlier than normal for central Oklahoma.
Crape Myrtles are leafing out early this year. If you haven’t done your annual pruning, now is the time to do it.
On Crape Myrtles cut off last year’s seed heads, any crossing branches, and smaller branches.
Now, go get outside!
The world is bursting with new life!
If you have any questions about your lawn or landscape, please send us an email or call (405)367-3873.
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
Protect Your Landscape Investment…. Why Plant Health Care is Important
Your landscape represents a big investment.
And a well maintained, healthy landscape is a very good investment!
Research by Project Evergreen, a non-profit committed to creating a greener, healthier, cooler earth, found:
A well landscaped and maintained landscape can increase a home’s value 15 to 20% at the time of resale. A neat lawn and healthy landscape suggest the homeowners have taken good care of the property, leading buyers to perceive the home is more valuable.
Properties with an attractive and healthy landscape tend to sell faster.
Well-maintained landscapes contribute to the overall aesthetic of the neighborhood. There is an elevated perceived quality of the entire area, boosting property values.
A healthy landscape can improve environmental conditions by reducing soil erosion, improving air quality, and reducing home energy cost.
All great reasons why it is important to protect your landscape investment.
But, there is another reason to protect your landscape investment…shrubs and trees are expensive. Expensive, yes, and worth it.
Every year a healthy landscape is increasing in value, increasing your property’s beauty and increasing your home value.
According to the Council of Tree and Landscape Appraisers,
a mature tree can have an appraised value between $1,000 and $10,000.
Caring for your landscape is well worth it!
Caring for your landscape investment pays off!
What is Plant Health Care?
Plant Health Care is a systematic approach to the care of landscape plants, trees and shrubs, which can save you money, create a healthy landscape, and reduce the amount of toxic chemicals in your landscape. A good program employs the practice of Integrated Pest Management (IPM). The key to IPM is monitoring and inspecting landscape plant materials on a regular schedule, using preventive and proactive approaches to insect and disease management, and applying controls when needed to protect your landscape investment.
Hall | Stewart’s Tree & Shrub Care Program is built around the philosophy of preventive and proactive health care.
During late winter and early spring, our program focuses on the use of dormant oils. Dormant oils work by suffocating and smothering overwintering insects. Dormant oils are a preventive plant health care solution that can reduce the need to use insecticides during the season to control plant damaging insects.
Throughout the spring, as your landscape is coming alive, Hall | Stewart’s Tree & Shrub Care Program has two focuses: systemic insecticides and soil health.
Systemic Insecticides - This application is a proactive approach to reducing the severity of chewing and sucking insects during the growing season.
A few of the most common issues our proactive systemic insecticide application is designed to control:
Bagworms - Active from May through September. Favorite host plants are juniper, arborvitae, spruce, pine, cedar, but can infest deciduous trees and shrubs. Heavy infestations can kill a plant.
Be on the lookout for any plants that don’t look their best. Notice the slight color difference between these two Taylor Junipers? After close inspection, bagworms were found feeding on the one on the left.
Be on the lookout for any plants that don’t look their best. Notice the slight color difference between these two Taylor Junipers? After close inspection, bagworms were found feeding on the one on the left.
Although not as common bagworms will feed on deciduous trees. If you notice skeletonized leaves, look close, most likely there are bagworms attacking the tree.
Aphids - Active in April and increase rapidly as temperatures rise. The honeydew, sticky substance they excrete is the easiest way to know aphids are active. Heavy populations can cause wilt and yellowing of leaves as the sap is removed. Blooming trees and shrubs will see a reduction in flowers.
Aphids are small and often go unnoticed but the sticky substance they leave behind is easy to spot.
Aphids feed on the underside of the leaf and become noticeable as the leaf becomes covered with the sticky substance they excrete.
Spider Mites - Active from early summer through fall. The hotter and drier the weather, the more severe the problem will become.First shows up as stippling of light dots on the leaves. Leaves then turn from bronze to yellow and then fall off.
Early signs of spider mites.
To know if you have spider mites shake leaves over a white sheet of paper.
Spider mites will look like tiny moving black dots.
Silk protective webbing formed by the spider mite.
Crape Myrtle Scale - Active May through September. The scale is white to gray and exudes a pink blood-like liquid when crushed. Initially you will notice a black sooty mold on the twigs and trunks of crape myrtles. Bark scale is difficult to control without the use of a systemic insecticide to kill the sucking pests.
This 25 year old Crape Myrtle was suffering from Crape Myrtle Scale. One year after trunk injections of a systemic insecticide and the mature tree is once again healthy and insect free.
White scale attacks Crape Myrtles leaving a black sooty substance on the bark.
Soil Health – In our urban and suburban environment, trees and shrubs often become stressed due to poor soils, insufficient moisture, lack of nutrients and harsh growing conditions. Our program uses high quality micro-nutrient fertilizer to provide consistent, extended feeding for your plants. The product improves soil structure, reduces plant stress, increases soil water retention, and promotes root growth and plant vigor without excessive shoot growth.
If you would like to know more about Hall | Stewart’s Tree & Shrub Care Programs or have a professional evaluation of your landscape, please give us a call (405)367-3873 or simply reply to this email.
Our goal is to help you protect your landscape investment.
Why, because trees and shrubs are well worth it!
As Steve Dobbs, author of the book Oklahoma Gardener’s Guide put it:
“Trees are truly the pillars of our landscapes. Think of trees as an investment for future generations.”
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
Oklahoma's State Tree... the Redbud!
What a crazy weather pattern! The weekend started with near record highs yesterday with a forecast for temperatures in the mid 20’s for tonight!
Temperatures in the mid 20’s isn’t uncommon for central Oklahoma in mid-March, but what is highly unusual is how warm we were in February. February set a record for the warmest in Oklahoma City history.
It is typical for us to ask you in mid-March if you are ready for one of the best reasons to love Oklahoma…the coming annual Redbud color show! But this year with an early, warm spring, we are well into our second week of Redbuds exploding with color throughout the Oklahoma landscapes. In a typical year, they start blooming in mid-March and last through early April.
Before we jump into one of my favorite topics, let’s address what we can expect if temperatures actually fall to 25 degrees tonight. After all, our lawns, trees and shrubs have far more fresh new leaves, buds and blooms than they normally do with a hard freeze expected in just a few hours.
If temperatures drop to 28-30 degrees…
Blooms on trees, shrubs, tulips will show signs of light freeze damage with brown and weathered appearing tips and edges
Already green Bermuda lawns will lose some color
If temperatures drop to 25-27 degrees…
More blooms will show damage — although, in protected areas some blooms may survive
Bermuda lawns will lose all their color and return mostly to winter brown.
If temperatures drop below 25 degrees…
Expect all blooming trees, shrubs, and bulbs will lose all their blooms.
The variable factors that can make a difference is wind, cloud cover and how many hours the temperature remains below freezing. Low winds, a cloudy night, and temperature dip followed by a quick recovery will do less damage.
What can you do to prepare?
Most importantly…WATER your lawn and landscape today with a good deep soaking. This winter ranks as in the Top 10 of Driest Winters. Unless you have been watering weekly through the winter, your lawn and landscape is not prepared for a hard freeze tonight.
Covering blooming tulips and shrubs will provide protection. Use a breathable fabric, such as sheet, or burlap.
Now, let’s return to a more enjoyable subject…Redbuds in Oklahoma!
You have to love some of Oklahoma’s crazy state symbols:
Our state floral emblem is Mistletoe. Really? Mistletoe is an unwanted parasite that harms trees.
Our state vegetable is the Watermelon. Watermelon? Watermelon is a vegetable? Well, come July I’ll be eating a lot of vegetables!
But, when it comes to a state tree, Oklahoma couldn’t have selected a better tree.
There is no better flowering tree than the Redbud, especially the ‘Oklahoma’ Redbud.
Michael Dirr, easily considered America’s leading woody plant expert, wrote in his textbook Dirr’s Hardy Trees and Shrubs about Redbuds:
“No equal, no competitor, can be found among small flowering landscape trees – the stage is reserved for this native species.”
I agree!
Eastern Redbuds are native to the Eastern US from Massachusetts to Florida extending west to Kansas, Oklahoma, and Texas. In the native landscape, you typically see them as understory trees in wooded areas.
From mid-March to early April, you can’t miss them. Their pink to lavender flowers brighten the landscape before leaves bud on most trees. They grow in full sun and partial shade. They tolerate clay, loam, and sandy soils. They adapt to a wide range of soil pH as well as soil moisture.
But, the native Eastern Redbud has its shortcomings. During the summer, the leaves are a disappointment in Oklahoma. The hot winds of July and August leave the native Redbud leaves tattered and bruised.
Thankfully, Oklahoma has an answer to the Eastern Redbud –
the ‘Oklahoma’ Redbud, Cercis Canadensis var. texensis ‘Oklahoma’.
The ‘Oklahoma’ Redbud has a deeper purple color bloom and a waxy, thick, dark green, heart-shaped leaf. The ‘Oklahoma’ is far richer in color in the spring and carries beautiful foliage through the hottest of summers. In the fall, the leaves turn golden yellow.
‘Oklahoma’ Redbuds can be used in every imaginable landscape application. They are excellent lawn trees. They are dynamic in groupings. And, they add interest to landscape beds.
Redbuds grow 15-18’ tall and have a spread of 15’ at maturity. Their small tree nature tends to produce a low branching, rounded top-growing pattern.
The Redbud rooting pattern can lead to difficulty in transplanting. When selecting a balled and burlap tree, it is best if the tree is harvested and replanted during the dormant season. A good size to start with is a 1.5” to 2” caliper tree (Tree caliper is the diameter of the tree trunk measured 6” above the soil). If you are planting a Redbud during the growing season, I would recommend purchasing a container grown tree, as there is less transplant shock.
A redbud in Oklahoma City that is starting to bud this week.
Other varieties of Redbud include:
‘Forest Pansy’ which has a shimmering, reddish-purple leaf. This Redbud is a real winner in the spring. But, in the early summer the leaves fade worse than the Eastern Redbud leaves. If you decide to try this variety, select a place in your landscape where the tree will be shielded from the hot west sun and southern winds.
‘Texas Whitebud’ is a white blooming variety of the ‘Oklahoma’. It also has waxy, dark green leaves through the summer.
'Avondale' is a little smaller, reaching only 10-12' in height and width. It is one of the most profuse flowering redbuds with very showy dark rose-purple flowers. It also has a glossy, heart-shaped leaf.
'Lavender Twist' is a weeping redbud with rosy-pink flowers. The umbrella branching pattern only reaches 5-6' tall making it a good specimen for a focal point in the landscape.
'Merlot' is a new hybrid with dark foliage similar to the 'forest pansy' but has glossier leaves that take the summer heat similar to the 'Oklahoma' redbud.
‘Rising Sun’ rosy-lavender flowers and traditional heart shaped leaves that turn from yellow to orange maturing to lime green during the summer. Reaches 8-10’ in height with an 8’ spread.
‘Flame Thrower’ a new cultivar, a cross between the Rising Sun and a weeping Redbud, introduced by North Caroline State University. Individual leaves transition from purple to red to reddish-bronze and finally to yellow-green as they mature.
For more Redbud varieties, click this link https://www.monrovia.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=redbud
‘Rising Sun’
‘Rising Sun’
Texas Whitebud
Flame Thrower
‘Whitebud’
One final reason why I think the Redbud is one of our best trees –
It blooms only on the old wood! Stop and look at one. You will notice that the last 6-12” of each branch doesn’t have any blooms. All of last year’s growth is void of color. All the color is on the two-year old and older wood, occasionally even the trunk will bloom. Typically, trees and shrubs bloom on the end of the branches. Early blooming plants bloom on the growth from last year, such as azalea. Summer bloomers, such as the Crape Myrtle, bloom on the new growth from the spring. The Redbud is unique in only blooming on wood at least one year old.
Jim Paluch in his book, Leaving a Legacy, tells the story of seven senior citizens who discover the magic of the Redbud blooming only on old wood. They were inspired to not spend their later years withering away. They asked, “If a Redbud can bloom on its old wood, why can’t we?” The seven men struck out to make a difference in their community during their elder years.
Just this week I had the pleasure of spending a few minutes with a Hall | Stewart customer who a few years ago retired from a career as an arborist in Chicago and moved to Oklahoma to be near family. We briefly visited about the trees he had planted in his Oklahoma lawn, and of course, he had planted an ‘Oklahoma Redbud’. I left inspired by a retired arborist and his love for trees and thought “He’s still blooming!”
It’s spring…
Redbuds are blooming…
Time to get outside…
Take a walk around your neighborhood…
Go on a bike ride…
Take a drive...
Enjoy the Redbuds!
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
Often Asked Spring Weed Control Questions
The warm February has our landscapes bursting to life earlier than usual.
Usually, the first week of March we are eagerly anticipating the bright yellows of Forsythia, the pink-purple Redbuds, the myriads of colorful Tulips….not this year! This year the landscape is already gleaming with the colors of spring.
Spring is such a wonderful time of year!
But, there is bad news with spring too...
Spring also means lawns that have not been on a regularly scheduled lawn care program are bursting with weeds.
Flowering Quince is one of the early spring bloomers. Quince grows well in full sun to partial shade and has a dense spreading growth pattern.
Blooming Forsythia is a sign that you need to get a pre-emergent on your lawn if you haven’t already.
Who doesn’t love the bright color of Creeping Phlox in the early spring landscape?
Weeds generate a lot of questions this time of year. Let’s visit about a few of the most asked questions:
Is it too late to apply a pre-emergent herbicide?
Why is it so important to prevent crabgrass?
Why is it important to apply a second pre-emergent application in the spring?
If I put a pre-emergent on my lawn every year in the spring, why do I have weeds now?
Before we get to the questions, let’s break down the word “pre-emergent”:
Pre - before.
Emerge – come into view, to be seen.
A pre-emergent herbicide is used to prevent annual weed seeds from germinating by drying out the unwanted weed seed before it starts to grow.
Pre-emergent herbicides have little to no impact on weeds we are already seeing.
Henbit, an annual winter weed that is littering lawns is easy to prevent with fall pre-emergent applications.
Crabgrass seedling
Early Summer Crabgrass
Mid-Summer Crabgrass
A clean weed free lawn in August is the result of two timely pre-emergent applications in the spring.
Commonly asked pre-emergent questions:
“Is it too late to apply a pre-emergent herbicide?” (The most asked lawn care question this time of year.)
Crabgrass, the most feared annual summer weed, germinates when soil temperatures reach 55 degrees for 3 consecutive days, which is typically mid-March in central Oklahoma. This year we had a string of days with 55-degree soil temperatures the third week of February, very unusual. Since then, they dipped back into the upper 40s only to quickly rebound back into the mid-50s.
Crabgrass is a very prolific yellowish to light green annual grassy weed that is east to prevent with a pre-emergent herbicide application.
Untreated lawns, especially thin turf areas, will have a healthy stand of crabgrass by mid April.
It is never too late to put a pre-emergent on your lawn!
There are two reasons why it is never too late to start a weed control program:
1. The high quality professional pre-emergent herbicide we use will control newly germinated crabgrass during the early stages of development. So, if you do not apply a pre-emergent before germination, we can gain complete control if an application is within the first few weeks of germination.
2. Not all crabgrass seeds germinate all at once. Germination will continue through the spring and early summer. Even if you don’t get a pre-emergent on at the perfect time, having some prevention is better than none.
“Why is it so important to prevent crabgrass?”
Crabgrass is the most prolific summer annual grassy weed. As an annual it dies every year and comes back from seed the next year.
If you do not apply a pre-emergent on your lawn every spring it is certain that you will have crabgrass in your lawn during the summer.
Crabgrass is a fast grower and if left unattended will rapidly dominate turf. Just like the name suggests, it spreads low to the ground. It can be found in almost every turf and landscape setting during the summer months where a pre-emergent was not applied.
During the summer crabgrass grows faster than turfgrass and thrives under stressful conditions of drought, heat, and low soil fertility, when turf is struggling.
Crabgrass dies in the fall after the first hard frost. But before it dies, one mature crabgrass will produce thousands of seeds.
Crabgrass will make a home in thin areas of turf this summer. Two keys to preventing crabgrass are two timely pre-emergent applications and a thick healthy lawn.
Why is it important to apply a second pre-emergent application in the spring?
Pre-emergent herbicides work by creating a barrier over the soil surface. The barrier gradually weakens over the season from foot traffic, mowing and periods of heavy rain. The edges of the lawn are the first to break down. The purpose of a second pre-emergent is to provide protection throughout the summer months.
“Without two pre-emergent applications, crabgrass germination will happen before the summer season is over. The goal with a second application is to prevent weed germination as long as you can. Without a good barrier crabgrass germination will continue into July. With a second application you are pushing summer annual weed prevention all the way into August.”
Tom Stewart, co-founder of Hall | Stewart
Another reason for a second pre-emergent is to prevent other troublesome summer grassy weeds: goosegrass and sandbur.
Goosegrass germinates when soil temperatures reach 60 to 65 degrees. Because of the later germination period, it is common for goosegrass to dominate in lawns that only receive the first pre-emergent of the year. Goosegrass is common in areas of high foot traffic, compacted and poorly drained soils. Like most grassy weeds, prevention is the best medicine. Aeration is also a key step in reducing goosegrass.
Sandburs start germinating at 55 degrees soil temperatures, but they reach peak germination much later at 75 degree soil temperatures. A second pre-emergent application is critical for the prevention of sandburs. Another important characteristic of sandburs is they thrive in thin, dry turf. Two spring pre-emergent herbicide applications and a thick, healthy turf are the best defenses.
If I put a pre-emergent on my lawn every spring, why do I have weeds now?
The most common weeds in lawns right now are henbit, chickweed and poa annua. All three are winter annual weeds. Henbit and chickweed are winter annual broadleaf weeds. Poa annua is a winter annual grassy weed.
Winter annual weeds need to be prevented in the fall with a pre-emergent herbicide just like summer annual weeds need to be prevented now. Winter annual weeds start germinating in September as soon as we start getting cool fall nights. Two fall pre-emergent applications are just as important as spring applications to have a weed free lawn.
The winter annual weeds currently in lawns can be controlled by mixing a post emergent herbicide with the pre-emergent application. By this time of year winter annual weeds are reaching maturity. As annual weeds mature their growth slows as they put their energy toward flowering and producing seeds before they die.
The challenge is weeds are slower to react to weed control applications as they mature. As growth slows, they do not draw in the herbicides as quickly as they do when they are actively growing.
The solution to a clean lawn this time of year is to apply fall pre-emergent herbicides to prevent winter annual weeds.
It is always easier to prevent a weed than it is to control a mature one.
Two important take aways -
If you haven’t put a pre-emergent on your lawn yet this spring, it is not too late. But the sooner the better!
If you have put a pre-emergent on your lawn it is important to put a second application on your lawn for season long weed prevention!
The timing of pre-emergent applications, the quality of the herbicide applied, and the right quantity are all critical components for achieving your best lawn this season.
If you are a subscriber to a Hall | Stewart Lawn Care Program, either the 7-Step Weed Control & Fertilizer or the 4-Step Weed Control Only, your lawn receives the critical First Pre-emergent Application and the important Second Pre-emergent Application every spring.
If you are not a subscriber to a Hall | Stewart Lawn Care Program, please contact us.
We want to make sure you receive timely pre-emergent herbicides to stop weeds before they start wreaking havoc on your lawn.
Preventing weeds is much easier on your lawn than trying to control them after they are up and growing. Once weeds take root, harsher products must be used that may slow turf development.
If you have questions or would like additional information about pre-emergent applications, please respond to this email or give us a call.
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn Care Programs
(405)367-3873
March Lawn & Landscape Tips
The warm days of February have delivered us an early launch toward spring.
It is common at the beginning of March to be reeling from a late February cold spell while anticipating the soon to come burst of life in our landscapes.
Hey! It’s time to get outside. Don’t delay, spring is on the fast track this year.
It’s time to walk the neighborhood.
It’s time to stroll the Myriad Gardens and Scissortail Park.
It’s March! Our world is bursting to life!
March, the month to be outside and discover something new in the landscape!
Enjoy every minute of every spring-like day!
Here are a few lawn and landscape tasks you should tackle this month:
The annual tulip color show is starting in landscapes around the metro.
Flowering Peach is an early spring blooming small tree that adds splashes of pinks and reds to the March landscape.
Forsythia
If you haven't already, cut your fescue lawn to remove the freeze damaged leaf tips and soon the lawn will return to full color and start growing.
Spring Lawn Maintenance
Get the mower out and get started. It is much easier to remove the winter damaged leaf blades before the turf begins to green-up. Remember, scalping on the lowest setting isn’t required and isn’t recommended. Simply mow the lawn at the height you plan to start the mowing season.
For most Bermuda lawns, the second setting is recommended. For fescue, start on the second or third notch on your mower.
We are often asked about dethatching at this time of year.
What is dethatching? Dethatching is the removal of excessive thatch builds up on the soil surface by using a vertical power rake.
But, unless you have a thick layer of ½-1” or more of thatch, dethatching causes more damage to the crown of the plants than it does good. So, with only a few exceptions, the best method for reducing thatch is an initial spring lawn maintenance followed by aeration after spring green-up. Unnecessary dethatching and scalping the lawn too low removes the canopy opening the lawn up to disease and weeds.
Need more info on the first mowing of the season? Check out last week’s post!
With a warmer than normal February, tulips are already starting to grace the landscape with bright colors.
Lawn Maintenance
As soil temperatures climb and occasional spring rains return, as soon as you remove the winter damaged leaf tips from your fescue lawns, they will regain color and start growing. Start your cool season lawn off right by maintaining it at 2 ½ - 3”. When it starts growing mow frequently enough that you are never removing more than 1/3 of the leaf blade per cutting. So, if you plan to maintain a 3” level, don’t allow the lawn to grow past 4.5” without giving it a trim.
If you have warm season turf, bermuda or zoysia, after you cut the lawn for the first time to remove the brown winter damaged leaf blades, most likely you can put off regularly scheduled lawn mowing until April.
Saucer Magnolia is a small deciduous tree with saucer-shaped white, pink or purple blooms in early spring. It makes a great specimen tree from the spectacular spring blooms to its spreading, multi-trucked shape.
Tulips.
Saucer Magnolia is a spring favorite.
The Dallas Arboretum and Botanical Gardens' Dallas Blooms continues through April 12th. They claim Dallas Blooms is the largest annual floral festival in the southwest.
One of the first shrubs to announce spring is forsythia. Interesting tidbit: when forsythia starts blooming it is an indicator that crabgrass has started germinating.
Lawn Weed Control
Summer annual weeds begin germinating when soil temperatures consistently reach 55 degrees. With the above normal temperatures through most of February soil temperatures reached 55 degrees earlier than normal, the third week of February, and then dipped back into the upper 40s after last weekend’s colder nighttime temperatures. Unless we have another cold spell, we are on course to see soil temperatures consistently reach 55 degrees in early March.
If you have not applied the first spring pre-emergent yet, please do so as quickly as possible. Whether you apply a pre-emergent yourself, or we do it for you, always follow instructions. Watering is a required step to move the herbicide into the top ½” of soil.
Need to know more about the timing of the first pre-emergent application?
This is the month landscapes are filled with the bright pinkish-red colors of Redbuds, the Oklahoma State tree
Lawn Fertilization
This month is a good time to start fertilizing your cool season lawns. Use a fertilizer with 25-30% nitrogen. Cool season lawns need to be fed more in the spring and fall when they are actively growing, and less in the summer.
If you have a warm season lawn, wait until lawns begin greening up to apply the first fertilizer application.
Bed Weed Control
March is an excellent month to apply a plant safe pre-emergent to your landscape plantings. Use caution in selecting the product to make sure it is safe for your plants. When possible, select a granular pre-emergent mixed with a fertilizer containing approximately 20% nitrogen. Doing so will give your plants a good spring feeding while preventing weeds at the same time.
Tree & Shrub Care
If you struggled with aphids, mites or scale in the past year you still have time to apply a dormant oil application for another couple of weeks. Dormant oils work by suffocating, smoother overwintering insects. Oil blocks the air holes causing the insect to suffocate. Dormant oils are an eco-friendlier approach to insect control by reducing the need for harsher control methods later.
Hall | Stewart’s Tree & Shrub Care Program Application #2 starts in March and continues through April. The application includes systemic insecticide and fertilizer. The application is designed to make sure your landscape investment is healthy and growing this season.
Spring is a good time to fertilize trees and shrubs with slow-release nitrogen, high quality phosphorus and potassium as well as micronutrients to provide consistent, extended feeding. This formulation is ideal for improving tree and ornamental development and vigor without unwanted shoot growth.
Spring is also a good time to apply systemic insecticide to control sucking and chewing insects.
Pansies, as long as their crown was not damaged by January’s cold spell, are returning to life and will add color to the landscape well into May.
Hyacinth is one of the first spring blooming bulbs to add splashes of color to the landscape.
Not all the colors of spring are blooms. Be on the watch for the bright colors of new leaves such as the yellow, oranges and reds of Goldmound Spirea.
Mulch
Spring is a great time to mulch your landscape plantings. Maintaining a 2” layer of organic mulch will reduce weed population, retain soil moisture, and provide a more consistent soil temperature for plant roots. I find adding mulch an easier task in the spring when I am cleaning my landscape plantings for the first time.
Irrigation
It is always important to monitor rainfall and water based on need. This winter ranked as one of the driest for the Oklahoma City metro area. If forecasters are correct, we will receive a good rainfall this week. But until we get at least ½” rainfall, continue to monitor soil moisture and give your lawn and landscape a good soaking every 4 to 7 days. As temperatures warm up, gradually increase the frequency of watering but delay starting every other day watering cycle until late spring to early summer.
Flowering Quince is another shrub that is one of the first to bloom with branches loaded with red flowers before they leaf out.
Spring Seasonal Color
Pansies are the toughest winter annual color, but it is common for them to look a little freeze burned after the winter. As long as the crown of the plant was not damaged, they have started to return to life and bloom. The great thing about pansies is they add color to the landscape until it is warm enough to plant summer annuals.
Wait until April to plant impatient, begonia, geranium, etc. And remember, most summer annuals need the warmer soil temperatures of late April or May before they are planted. If you get in a hurry, you will end up planting your summer annual color twice. When planting remember most plants prefer well drained, organic soil and would prefer you add compost when planting.
Redbuds, Oklahoma’s State Tree, are off to an early start this year.
Seeding Fescue
March is the second-best time to overseed fescue. But it comes in a very distant second to seeding in the fall. Spring seeded fescue will come up very well and look very good till the summer heat arrives - then it fades quickly. Fescue, being a cool season grass, does not establish a sustainable root system when planted in the spring. Give your fescue lawn a chance to green up first to get a better feel on the overall condition of the lawn. If you still feel you have bare areas that need to be addressed now, seed this month but still plan on seeding again in the fall. In most cases waiting till fall to seed is best. Fall seeding allows you to focus on weed prevention and turf development in the spring and turf establishment in the fall when it is best.
Bridal Wreath Spirea will add graceful white blooms toward the end of March.
Creeping Phlox is one of the first perennials to announce spring has arrived.
Pruning
March is the time to do heavy pruning on your roses. March is also the best time to make a major reduction in the size of hollies, boxwoods and most broadleaf evergreens. Before spring growth arrives, you can successfully remove all the foliage back to the central leader if needed.
When it comes to hydrangeas, most gardeners feel uncertain and confused about when and how much to prune hydrangeas. The truth is most hydrangeas do not need to be pruned at all. It is common to have some branch die back after the winter in our area. A common mistake is to get in a hurry when pruning back the winter damage. Be patient, don’t get in a hurry to remove dead branches. Wait until late March or even April before pruning off the dead branches. Pruning earlier, or pruning to the ground in the spring, could reduce or eliminate blooming this season. When it is time to prune back the dead ends, make your cuts at an angle just above the highest green bud.
Wait until late March or even April to prune the dead tip branches from Hydrangeas. Prune the dead branch ends by making an angle cut just above the highest bud.
If you need help with any of your lawn and landscape tasks, or just have a few questions, please don’t hesitate to give us a call or send us an email.
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
The First Ritual of Spring
Does spring have a sound?
It does. It is the sound of lawn equipment firing up for the first time.
Following a very cold and snowy last week of January, the weather made an abrupt turn in February and sprinted right toward spring. This may be the earliest I have seen phlox, forsythia and saucer magnolias starting to bloom.
Ready or not…Welcome to Spring!
It’s time to get the lawn equipment out and kick off the season!
Let’s cover the first ritual of spring…the first lawn mowing:
When is the right time for spring lawn maintenance?
The best time is between the last week of February and mid-March. The goal is to do it after the last chance for extended cold weather and before spring green up.
How low do I need to cut the lawn the first time?
This will be the most often asked question over the next few weeks.
The old rule was to cut the lawn as short as the mower would go. Homeowners would brag about getting their lawn shorter than their neighbor. The more dirt exposed, the better.
But, why? What is the purpose of scalping your lawn to the dirt? Is that the best thing for your lawn?
The practice of scalping your lawn in the spring on the lowest setting isn’t needed and isn’t beneficial for your lawn.
But, there is something you should do every spring – the initial spring lawn maintenance.
It is common for Fescue to end up over 3” tall. 1.5-2” is a good starting height in the spring.
Spring lawn maintenance is the process of cutting the lawn to the height you plan to start mowing this spring. The purpose is to remove the cold damaged leaf blades allowing the crown, stolons, and rhizomes to grow. It is not good to cut the lawn so short you see dirt.
What is the difference?
Lawn scalping is setting your mower on the lowest setting, cutting the lawn as short as possible, often exposing some soil in the process. But, anytime you expose dirt in your lawn you are opening the opportunity for more weeds to germinate. And, when you scalp as low as possible, you run the risk of damaging the plant crown. Damage to the crown will result in a weaker root system and a stressed lawn through spring and into the early summer.
Spring Lawn Maintenance is the practice of setting your mower height at or just below the height you plan to start mowing for the season. This sets the lawn up for you to gradually increase the cutting height through the spring and summer with your lawn reaching its maximum height during the heat of late summer. If you plan to start your lawn off for the season on the second notch on your mower, then do the initial spring lawn maintenance at the same height.
Often Bermuda lawns end the season at 2-3” tall. Cutting it down to 1” is a good place to start the season.
Warm season turfs, Bermuda and Zoysia, go completely dormant during the winter, so removing the brown leaf blades is necessary. The leaf blades (grass shoots) are damaged by the winter freezes and do not green back up. In the spring, the crown, stolon, and tillers will green back up. So, only leaf blades need to be removed, not the crown or stolon.
Fescue lawn before Spring Lawn Maintenance has removed the freeze damaged grass tips.
Fescue lawn after Spring Lawn Maintenance.
Should I remove the clippings or leave them on the lawn?
Bag the clippings or rake them up after mowing. Removing the clippings is always a good practice anytime you are removing more than 1/3 of the grass blade in one mowing whether it is dormant or green.
Fescue lawn 3 weeks after Spring Lawn Maintenance
If I have a fescue lawn, is spring lawn maintenance required?
For the best spring green up, I would recommend mowing the lawn just a little shorter than you left it at the end of last season. Fescue and rye leaf blades often have brown tips from the winter cold. If you remove the brown leaf tips soon, your lawn will develop better color quickly as soil temperatures warm.
If you have a fescue lawn, in the next couple of weeks cut your lawn a little shorter than you left it in the fall to remove the freeze damaged leaf blades.
Should I dethatch the lawn?
Dethatching is the process of removing excess thatch. Thatch is the layer of undecomposed grass clippings that builds up on the soil surface. When your lawn is healthy and you are mowing often enough, you should not have thatch build up. This is even true if you do not catch your clippings during the growing season. But, if you have a layer of more than 1” of thatch, dethatching is recommended. Use a verti-cutter, also known as a power rake, to remove the thatch before spring green up. Excessive thatch stops air, nutrients, and water from reaching the root zone and results in a shallow rooted turf.
Aeration, after spring green up, is also an effective way of removing thatch and has the added benefit of reducing soil compaction.
In most cases, spring lawn maintenance followed by aeration after spring green up will cure thatch problems. In nearly 40 years in the lawn and landscape industry, I have only seen a handful of lawns with excessive thatch problems to the point that dethatching was required.
It is common for fescue lawns to be more brown than green in late February. Cutting the lawn short enough to remove the brown tips and warm spring-like days will have your fescue back to green by early March.
Best Practice for Bermuda Lawns –
Anytime in the next 3 weeks cut the lawn on your mower’s next to lowest setting and remove the clippings. Plan to aerate your lawn in April – June to reduce compaction, improve soil structure, and move organic material into the root zone.
Best Practice for Fescue Lawns –
In the next 3 weeks, cut your lawn a little lower than you left it in the fall to remove the freeze damaged leaf blades, then be ready to resume weekly mowing in mid-March.
If you have any questions concerning the practice of spring lawn maintenance vs scalping, or the benefits of detaching vs aeration, send us an email or give us a call.
Our goal is to help you get your lawn off to its best start this spring.
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
Nandina – A Bulletproof Landscape Addition
Nandinas are an old-fashioned, evergreen shrub that gradually fell out of favor over the years - a result of being overplanted for decades.
But, with the introduction of new varieties and their nearly bullet-proof performance, it is time to revisit why nandinas deserve a place in the landscape.
Nandinas grow from zone 6 to zone 11 (Oklahoma City is in zone 6b to 7a) and are a mainstay in the southern landscape. They grow in both sun and shade, although because their color is more dynamic in the sun, I prefer full sun to partial shade.
Nandina tolerates a wide range of soil pH from 4.0 to 7.0 if it drains moderately well. Once established, nandina is very drought tolerant.
Best of all, they have no pest problems. Even deer don’t bother them.
Nandinas add texture and color to the landscape. Their lacy green leaves grow on cane like stems adding yet another texture. In the autumn, the leaves turn burgundy and scarlet lasting through the winter and into spring. Some varieties produce berries in the fall and winter. No plant produces a showier berry cluster than the nandina domestica.
The varieties of nandina are numerous, but here are a few favorites:
Nandina 'Flirt' 1-2' tall. Stunning, deep red, new growth accentuates the evergreen leaves of this nandina. It is an improved variety of the classic Nandina 'Harbour Dwarf'. The dwarf growth habit makes it perfect for small landscapes and borders.
Nandina 'Plum Passion' 4-5' tall. New growth in spring and summer is a deep purple-red, turning slightly redder in the winter. Versatile and durable, and highly effective as a specimen plant, in borders, or massed for intense color.
Nandina ' Tuscan Flame' 3-4' tall. A real eye-catcher in the landscape, this evergreen shrub with a compact, rounded habit provides brilliant year-round color, needs minimal care, and maintains its neat round habit without pruning. Bright coral to russet-red foliage has a lacy appearance.
Nandina domestica ‘Heavenly Bamboo’ 6-8’ tall. The largest of the Nandina family produces lacy green leaves on upright cane like stems that turn brilliant red in the fall and winter. Small flowers are followed by bright berries in the fall. Use in mass plantings to create a colorful landscape screen or as a single specimen.
Nandina make a great accent in winter container plantings.
Nandina 'Sienna Sunrise' 3-4' tall. Intensely red new foliage cools to green. Fiery red in fall and winter. Plant in mass for dramatic effect.
Nandina 'Harbor Dwarf' 1 1/2 to 2 1/2' tall. An attractive small evergreen shrub that forms a dense clump of upright, cane-like stems with soft, narrow, green leaves that emerge with a pink-copper tint in spring and turn a brilliant bronzy-red color in fall and winter. Effective when used as an accent or container specimen, in mixed shrub borders, or massed as a groundcover.
Nandina ‘Firepower’. 2-3’. New foliage has fresh green coloration, with red highlights. Brilliant red foliage develops in the fall and persists through winter. Neat, evergreen mounds work well for borders and in masses.
Nandina ‘Gulf Stream’ 3-4’ tall. New leaves emerge scarlet red in spring and mature to blue-green in summer. Intense red foliage develops as autumn temperatures arrive. Compact shape is ideal for use around structures and in front of hollies.
Looking for more information on the latest nandina introductions? Visit https://southernlivingplants.com/plant/nandina/
Landscape uses of nandina are nearly as numerous as the varieties. Nandinas add layers to the landscape when planted in the middle plant of larger beds. They are particularly showy when planted in front of dark green boxwoods and hollies, and behind ground covers and annual color. With their lacy structure, larger varieties provide a softening effect when planted in front of fences, structures and utilities. Dwarf varieties add interest planted along boarders and in groupings. They even make a great winter accent in containers.
Most winters nandina hold bright colors creating interest in the winter landscape.
Nandinas are a low maintenance plant. Pruning only needs to be done when a plant has become too large, irregular in shape or leggy. When pruning, use the 1/3 rule: prune back 1/3 of the tallest canes to the ground, prune another 1/3 back just above a leaf approximately halfway on the plant, and leave 1/3 untouched. Nandinas should never be sheared! Shearing nandina ruins the natural beauty of the plant. If nandinas are planted where they need to be sheared regularly, they are planted in the wrong location. It would be better to remove them than to shear them because a sheared nandina adds no value to the landscape.
One of the most prolific shows of fall-winter berries is found on Nandinas.
Over the next couple weeks, as your landscape is on the verge of bursting back to life, take a few minutes to reflect on the landscape’s winter interest. Should you consider adding a nandina variety to your landscape before next winter?
Nandinas, with bright red berries and red to purple foliage, are one of the best plants for adding interest to your winter landscape.
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
Nandina should never be sheared. Shearing destroys the natural shape and beauty of the plant.
When is the Right Time to Apply a Pre-Emergent?
The short answer…
Before weeds germinate.
Ok, maybe we need the long answer –
The window for applying the first pre-emergent application is broad.
If you have already had your first application, it was done at the right time.
If you have not had your first application, you are NOT too late.
Summer annual weeds begin to germinate when soil temperatures reach 55 degrees. Mid-March is the normal time for soil temperatures to reach 55 degrees in central Oklahoma. We have experienced some years where soil temperatures didn’t reach 55 degrees until the last few days of March and we have experienced springs where soil temperatures reached the summer germination point in early March.
How do pre-emergent herbicides work?
Pre-emergent herbicides create a blanket over a lawn preventing seeds from germinating on the soil surface. Pre-emergent weed controls are designed to stop weed seeds from germinating. So, as long as they are applied before weeds germinate, the timing is perfect.
To be on the safe side, the best practice is to have the first application of pre-emergent herbicides on your lawn by the first week of March.
Last week in covering February Lawn & Landscape Tips we started by pondering the question:
Do you think of February as the end of winter?
Or, do you think of February as the beginning of spring?
The reality is February can go either way.
Sometimes February feels like winter is never going to end. Other times February feels like spring has arrived with bulbs, shrubs and trees bursting to life.
Because crabgrass is an annual grassy weed, without a spring pre-emergent even the best lawns will have crabgrass this summer.
With mostly 60 and 70 degree days in the forecast for the next few days we are on the edge of spring fever. But, the first feeling of spring can quickly turn to lawn anxiety if you haven’t applied the first spring per-emergent yet.
It is OK! You haven’t missed the window for a pre-emergent. Soil temperatures are still well below 55 degrees.
The timing of the first application is not about air temperature; it is all about soil temperature.
The current 3-Day Average Soil Temperature in the Oklahoma City area is 45 degrees, 10 degrees below the temperature required for summer annual weeds to start germinating.
If you have already had your first application, it was done at the right time.
And, if you have not had your first application, you are not too late!
With the occasional winter-like cold snaps February is known for we can expect soil temperatures to range between the mid 40s and low 50s for the next few weeks.
So, when is the right time to apply a pre-emergent herbicide to prevent summer annual weeds?
Anytime in January, February or early March before weeds germinate.
There is one very important factor when it comes to the effectiveness of a pre-emergent no matter when you apply it…. Water!
A critical factor in the effectiveness of a pre-emergent application is water.
Watering in the application activates the herbicide creating a barrier. A best practice is to water within 2-3 days of when the application is made. But, quality herbicides still retain effectiveness as long as they are watered in within 10-14 days.
There are a lot of factors that go into creating your best lawn, but the most critical at this time of year is the application of the spring pre-emergent before weeds germinate.
One indicator that soil temperatures are warm enough for summer annual weeds to start germinating is bright yellow blooms of forsythia.
Even though we have had plenty of spring like days, forsythia has not started to burst with yellow yet.
Two More Important Weed Control Details:
1. Pre-emergent herbicides are not designed to control existing weeds in your lawn. If you have weeds in your lawn now, a post-emergent grassy weed killer and/or a broadleaf weed killer must be applied. Weeds currently present in lawns now are winter annuals best prevented with the fall and early winter pre-emergent applications. Control now is possible, but the sooner an application is made, the better the results will be.
Best Practice – A clean lawn in January and February is the result of effective fall pre-emergent applications.
The best way to have a weed free lawn in February is to never skip the fall pre-emergent applications.
2. The pre-emergent barrier gradually weakens over the season from foot traffic, mowing and periods of heavy rain. The edges of the lawn are the first to break down. Additionally, summer annual weeds continue to germinate throughout the season. It is recommended that a second pre-emergent application be made mid-March to early May for season long prevention.
Best Practice – A second pre-emergent application 6-8 weeks after the first application will provide season long prevention of summer annual weeds.
So, when is the right time to apply a pre-emergent herbicide?
If you have received the first application of the season, you did it at the right time.
If you have yet to receive the first application, you perfect…there is still time to prevent summer annual weeds!
If you have any questions about pre-emergent applications, please give us a call!
Lorne Hall
Hall-Stewart Lawn & Landscape
(405)367-3873
February – Winter or Spring?
What is your opinion of February?
Do you think of February as the end of winter?
Or, do you think of February as the beginning of spring?
The reality is… February can go either way.
Sometimes February feels like winter is never going to end — other times February feels like spring has arrived with bulbs, shrubs and trees bursting to life.
If we receive a snow this February, take time to find to notice the stark red branches of the Red Twig Dogwood against pure white snow.
Either way, February means we are getting closer to the browns of winter being replaced with the colors of spring!
And, no matter which way this February trends, it is time to shake off your winter break from lawn and landscape activities and get focused on setting up your lawn and landscape for your best year yet.
You may have had time to handle some of these tasks during January, if so, you are ahead. But, if not, it is time to get busy. We are down to the last few weeks to get your lawn and landscape ready for the coming season.
For your best lawn this season, a pre-emergent application must be put on your lawn before the first of March.
Weed Control
In early January, as weather allowed, we began applying the very important first step of our lawn care program to many of your lawns. For your best lawn this year, it is critical you have a pre-emergent herbicide on your turf to prevent spring and summer weeds before early March. Many summer weeds germinate when soil temperatures reach 55 degrees, which typically occurs sometime during the first two weeks of March in central Oklahoma. Soil temperatures are currently in the upper 30s but will reach the critical weed germination point within the next 30-40 days. Along with applying the first pre-emergent of the year, now is the perfect time to be more aggressive in controlling existing weeds in bermuda lawns. If you have a fescue lawn, now is also a good time for pre and post-emergent weed control, but if you are applying your own weed control it is critical you read the label first and ensure it is safe for fescue. Never assume that an herbicide is okay on any turf type.
Key Point: For the best lawn this year your lawn needs a pre-emergent application before soil temperatures reach 55 degrees in early March.
Want to learn more about preventing weeds? Read our article from January 11th, Why is an Early Lawn Care Application So Important?
Because crabgrass is fast growing and spreads quickly, it can have a dominant presence in your lawn by May without a spring pre-emergent.
Dormant Oil
Many insects, such as scale, aphids, mites and leaf hoppers, overwinter on trees and shrubs. Spray with a dormant oil when the temperature is above freezing before the end of the month (before bud break), and you will have less insect issues on your trees and shrubs during the season. Dormant oil can also reduce some fungal pathogens.
Always read and follow the label before spraying. Some plants, such as blue spruce and blue juniper, can experience temporary loss of color if sprayed by Dormant Oils.
Key Point: Dormant oils will reduce, and possibly eliminate, some insects.
For more information on dormant oil applications, read our post from January 18th, Dormant Oils – A Proactive Approach to Insect Control.
Over the past few seasons Crape Myrtles have been problems with white scale. The first step in gaining control of the insect is a dormant oil treatment.
The best time to control and prevent weeds is before warm season lawns come out of dormancy.
An application of a dormant oil this month will smother overwintering insects such as aphids.
Assuming February brings us a gradual warm up we are only 30 days away from daffodil blossoms.
Watering
Winter moisture is important for the health of your lawn and landscape. Last weeks snow fall, a dry snow, equaled a good, slow soaking ½” of moisture. Continue to monitor moisture through February and anytime we go 7-10 days without moisture, pick a nice day and give your lawn and landscape a deep soaking. The goal in the winter is to get ½” of moisture on your lawn and landscape every 2 weeks.
Key Point: Winter plant damage is more likely to occur when plant roots are dry during an extended cold period.
It is a good practice to wrap the trunks of young Maple trees to prevent trunk damage in February and March. Commonly known as southwest injury, it is caused by sap rising on warm days followed by freezing temperatures at night resulting in damage to the bark.
Fescue lawns will return to a rich dark green sometime between the last week of February and the last week of March when soil temperatures and moisture are just right.
Fescue
Fescue lawns go into winter with a rich green color and gradually fade in color through the winter. The amount of color loss is directly related to how dry and cold of a winter we have. One of the best benefits of last week’s 8” snow fall is the blanket of protection from the single digit temperatures and cold winds while trapping the warmth of the soil. Don’t be surprised if fescue lawns look a little more vibrant once all the snow is melted.
What can you expect from your fescue in February? Every year there is a turning point when temperatures rise, there is abundant moisture and almost overnight, fescue lawns regain their rich green color. A full recovery can happen as early as mid-February or as late as mid-March.
Key Point: Hold your judgment on the condition of your fescue lawn for another 4-6 weeks.
What can you do for your fescue lawn?
Sometime between late February and early March, remove the freeze-dried leaf blades by cutting the lawn shorter. You don’t have to scalp it. Just cut it enough to remove the brown leaf ends.
Key Point: Cut your fescue a little shorter in a few weeks to remove the brown leaf tips.
We could be only three weeks away from seeing spring color!
Soil Test
If your lawn did not respond as expected to fertilizer last year, you may have a soil problem. It is a good idea to have your soil tested every two to three years to ensure the soil will continue to yield a healthy landscape. A soil analysis will provide you with the pH and levels of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. A pH range of 6.0 to 7.5 is acceptable for most plants.
If you would like to schedule a soil test respond to this email or call (405)367-3873. We will gather a sample and deliver it to the lab. Once we have the soil test results, we will send you a report and prescribe a soil amendment plan if needed.
Key Point: For the best lawn and landscape, have your soil tested every two to three years.
One of the first announcements of spring comes from the bright golden yellow of the forsythia. When will it declare spring this year? Before the end of February? Or March?
Later this month Crabapple blossoms will burst to life.
Tree Pruning
Continue to work on tree pruning with the goal of completing maintenance and restorative pruning before trees leaf in March.
Want to know the details on tree pruning? Visit our article from December 7th, Winter Tree Pruning.
If you planted daffodil bulbs in November or December, this is less than 30 days away!
Lawn Maintenance
Continue to keep leaves and debris removed from the landscape. Later this month or early in March, cut the lawn for the first time. It is not necessary to scalp the lawn all the way to the soil. We recommend cutting the lawn at or just below the height you desire to maintain it at during the spring and early summer.
Have you noticed the Winterberry? Winterberry is a deciduous holly that adds interest to the winter landscape with a vibrant show of red berries.
Lawn Equipment
If you mow your own lawn, February is a perfect time to get your mower ready for the new season. I am a firm believer in having your lawn mower professionally serviced every winter. Not only will you have less mower headaches during the season, you also can expect a longer mower life. Most shops offer a winter tune-up special where they put in a new spark plug, change the oil and filter, replace the air filter if needed, put in fresh fuel with stabilizer, and sharpen the blade.
We are only 4-5 weeks away from Oklahoma’s State Tree, the Redbud, brightening our days.
Over the next few weeks there will be days that we think winter will never end and there will be strings of days that have us all thinking spring has arrived.
Don’t let a spring-like February day pass without spending some time outside.
By the end of the month, we will all be singing….
I see trees of green
Red roses too
I see them bloom
For me and you
And I think to myself
What a wonderful world
I see skies of blue
And clouds of white
The bright blessed day
The dark sacred night
And I think to myself
What a wonderful world
Yes, I think to myself
What a wonderful world!
If you need help with any of these tasks or have questions, please give us a call.
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
Snow & Your Landscape
Are you a snow lover?
Or, are you one that hopes we make it through the winter snow free?
If your lawn and landscape have a vote, they are voting for snow!
Fresh snow is like a warm blanket on a cold night to your landscape!
Snowfall is nature’s way of insulating your valuable lawn and landscape from cold temperatures. A fresh snow cover of more than 2” is very beneficial to the landscape by trapping soil warmth below the snow.
Without snow, soil temperatures fluctuate more, dipping deeper during cold spells. It is common to see soil temperatures at 2” below the soil surface 4 to 8 degrees warmer with a snow cover when temperatures are in the single digits without a snow cover.
With subzero temperatures in the forecast over the next few days, your lawn and landscape is very thankful to have a blanket of snow trapping the warm soil temperatures around its roots and keeping the cold windy temperatures at bay.
Snowfall is moisture!
If we get a ½” rainfall, there is a lot of runoff.
But, when snow melts, it slowly soaks in. Nearly every single drop benefits the roots of your turf, flowers, shrubs and trees.
On the average, a 10” snow equals a 1” rainfall. With a wet snow, your landscape may receive an inch of moisture for every 5” of snow. With a dry snowfall, it takes 15” of snow to equal a 1” rainfall.
Believe me, as dry as the climate has been this winter, your lawn and landscape will take every drop it can squeeze out of the white powder!
The Old Farmer’s Almanac calls snow a “poor man’s fertilizer.”
Snow is full of nitrogen. As snow falls it collects nitrogen that is naturally in the air and distributes it evenly over your lawn and landscape.
Even though spring green up is still a few weeks away, don’t be surprised if our lawn and landscapes look a little more alive as the snow melts away.
So, which are you?
Snow lover?
Snow hater?
I know where your lawn and landscape stand on the snow issue!
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
Dormant Oils – a Proactive Approach to Insect Control
It’s January, so lawn care professionals and lawn enthusiasts appear to be singularly focused on one thing:
Appling pre-emergent herbicides to prevent annual weeds from germinating this spring!
But wait, Isn’t there something else we should be focused on?
Isn’t there also a way to prevent insects from overtaking your trees and shrubs this spring and summer?
Yes! You should also be applying Dormant Oils to trees and shrubs now.
A Dormant Oil Application now is to insect control what a Pre-emergent Herbicide Application is to weed control.
What is Dormant Oil?
Dormant Oils are an ecofriendly, effective way to control overwintering eggs and insects.
Commonly referred to as Dormant Oils, but technically they are Horticultural Oils. The common name Dormant Oils came about because they are sprayed on trees and shrubs while they are in dormancy before buds open in the spring.
Dormant oils are not poisonous or harmful to humans or pets.
Oak Scale, also known as Soft Scale is a common pest on oaks and cause stunting and twig dieback. A dormant oil application is the first step in controlling the pest.
Aphids are small sap-sucking insects that excretes a large amount of sticky honeydew May through September. A dormant oil application will help smother aphids eggs that overwinter on branches.
How Does A Dormant Oil Work?
Dormant oils work by suffocating, smoother overwintering insects. Oil blocks the air holes causing the insect to suffocate. In some cases, the oil acts as a poison and at times the oil can interfere with how an insect feeds.
White scale on crape myrtles.
What Insects Do Dormant Oils Control?
Dormant oils typically target two types of insects, sucking and chewing pests.
Dormant oils control scale insects, aphids, some borers, and mites that are overwintering on trees and shrubs. They also can be effective as a fungicide to combat powdery mildew, leaf spot, and rust.
Two pest dormant oils target have become a common problem in our landscapes: scale and aphids.
Scale – White bark scale on crape myrtles is a problem in central Oklahoma. The insect is invasive and results in a black mold along the branches and trunk. Although the scale is rarely fatal to the plant, they are responsible for stunted growth, reduced flowering and decreased aesthetics.
Aphids – A few aphids are not a problem and do not require treatment. But if populations increase, they can cause damage. Application of dormant oil in the late winter or spring is the best preventive step to control aphids and is recommended.
Crape myrtles often struggle with scale and aphids and benefit from an annual dormant oil application.
The first sign of a spider mite problem is a plant that is showing signs of decline and the foliage takes on a yellow cast. Dormant oils can be used to kill mite eggs.
Spider mites are very small pest visible as small pepper sized specs that move on a white sheet of paper. Dormant oils can be used to kill mite eggs.
When Should Dormant Oils Be Applied?
Applications should be made from winter to early spring while trees and shrubs are dormant.
The goal is to make the application while the plants are hardened off over the winter and before new buds or shoots start growing in the spring.
Treatments should be made when temperatures are above 32 degrees and winds are light.
Even coverage of all branches is very important to ensure the oils coat insects.
Do not spray on wet plants.
Always read and follow the label before spraying. Some plants, such as blue spruce and blue juniper, can experience temporary loss of color if sprayed by Dormant Oils.
“Right now, is the perfect time to take care of overwintering pests hiding in your trees and shrubs. Hall | Stewart’s Tree & Shrub Care Program Application #1 includes dormant oils. It is the easiest and most effective way to keep scale, mites, aphids, and other overwintering insects under control before they cause problems this spring and summer.”
Dormant oil applications are an effective way to control scale on trunks and branches.
White scale on crape myrtle is a problem in central Oklahoma. If you have crape myrtles in your landscape, a dormant oil application is recommended.
Who Should Schedule A Dormant Oil Application Now?
Anyone who has struggled with aphids, mites or scale in the past year.
Anyone desiring an eco-friendlier approach to insect control.
Anyone who wants to reduce insect populations now instead of waiting until the growing season when harsher control methods are required.
Protect your landscape investment with a Dormant Oil Application this winter!
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
Why is an Early Lawn Care Application so important?
Why? Because when it comes to having a clean, weed free lawn this year, what you do, or don’t do, for your lawn between now and the end of February will determine the condition of your lawn this year.
There are many reasons for a weedy lawn:
Weeds are common in unhealthy soil,
Thin turf is an invitation for weeds to fill in the voids,
Weeds thrive in compacted soils,
Drought stressed lawns are a favorite target for weeds,
and the list goes on and on and on….
But, the most common reason for weeds is failure to apply a pre-emergent herbicide at the right time.
The early Spring Pre-Emergent application is the first step, and a critical step, in growing a weed free, healthy lawn this year.
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape has started applying the first application containing the early Spring Pre-Emergent to lawns, making sure all our clients receive the critical first step in weed prevention at the right time.
Year round we field a lot of questions about the best way to have a weed free, healthy lawn.
When do we get most questions about weeds? You are right, after a lawn is covered with weeds – when it is hard to gain control without causing damage to the turf.
The right time to have a conversation about weeds is before they germinate. Prevention of weeds is much easier and healthier than controlling them later.
Let’s cover a few key questions about weed prevention:
Why is the early spring pre-emergent so critical?
Summer annual weeds come up every year. An annual weed grows, reseeds, and dies all in one year. There are both grassy and broadleaf annual weeds. A quality pre-emergent herbicide will prevent many types of weeds.
The most aggressive annual grassy weed is crabgrass.
If you had a single crabgrass plant in your lawn last year, or your neighbor’s lawn had crabgrass, or your neighbor’s neighbors had crabgrass, there is a 100% chance you will have crabgrass this summer if you DO NOT apply a pre-emergent to your lawn this spring.
If you have a fescue lawn it is very important to make sure the products you put on your lawn are safe. The first lawn application of the year is one that you have to be careful not to put the wrong herbicide on fescue or you will cause damage.
Dallisgrass is often confused with crabgrass during the summer. Dallisgrass goes dormant in the winter but the rhizomes stay alive. The first application of the year as a good time to gain control and reduce the spread of this difficult weed.
A weed free lawn this summer starts with a pre-emergent application before the end of February.
Why am I so sure you will have crabgrass if you skip the early spring pre-emergent application?
A single crabgrass plant produces thousands of seeds. Because crabgrass is so prolific, even the nicest lawn in your neighborhood last summer can be full of crabgrass this summer if a pre-emergent is not applied this year.
Because crabgrass is an annual grassy weed, without a spring pre-emergent even the best lawns will have crabgrass this summer.
Because crabgrass is fast growing and spreads quickly, it can have a dominant presence in your lawn by May without a spring pre-emergent.
Mid summer lawn that did not have any pre-emergent in the spring.
What is the best timing for the first lawn care application?
With thousands of seeds lying dormant in the soil, as soon as conditions are right, germination will begin. Germination of crabgrass occurs typically in early to mid-March in central Oklahoma.
The key determination is soil temperature. When soil temperatures consistently reach 55 degrees, germination occurs. Currently, soil temperatures in the Oklahoma City area are in the low-40s.
Between now and early March, soil temperatures will go up and down, gradually creeping up until they reach that right temperature for summer weed germination.
Lawns that receive the early spring pre-emergent application sometime between now and the end of February have the best chance to be weed free this year.
Will one pre-emergent application per year be enough?
Crabgrass is one of the first annual weeds to germinate each spring, but it does not germinate all at once. Germination of seeds will continue throughout the summer.
Other summer annual grassy weeds such as goosegrass, foxtail, and sandbur will germinate soon after crabgrass. Knotweed and spurge are summer annual broadleaf weeds that will germinate even later.
Summer annuals germinate from mid-March through the summer.
Pre-emergent herbicides will not provide coverage for the entire summer growing season. A pre-emergent works by creating a blanket over the soil to prevent seeds from germinating. Rain, irrigation, foot traffic, all combine to gradually break down the herbicide.
Full summer control is only attainable if you repeat the application again between early March and the end of May, 6-12 weeks after the first application.
A lawn care application between now and the end of a February will prevent crabgrass from coming up in March.
Does a pre-emergent need to be applied as a liquid or can it be spread as a granular?
Pre-emergent herbicides come in both forms, and either is effective as long as the product is applied evenly, creating continuous weed barrier. Watering the product into the root zone is important. Always follow instructions left on your door anytime an application is made to your lawn.
For the do it yourselfer, it is important to study and follow the label. Know your grass type and make sure the product you are applying is approved for your lawn.
Don’t over apply. Pre-emergent herbicides work by drying out weed seeds. Too much pre-emergent will stunt root growth and slow spring green-up.
And, for the DIYer, only buy what you need per application to limit the amount of product you have left lying around the garage.
Pre-emergent applications are typically a liquid spray and have a slight color making it easy for the professional lawn care specialist to create an even weed barrier across a lawn.
Why are pre-emergent sprays blue-green?
Actually, they are not. Some lawn care companies add dye to their herbicide to use as a marking pattern. We are not a proponent of using dye. Most pre-emergent herbicides have light coloring that aid the lawn care professional in applying the product evenly to the surface.
We find dyes messy — they give the natural landscape an artificial look and add an unnecessary chemical to your landscape.
For your best lawn this summer an early season pre-emergent must be applied before the end of February.
Most importantly, for the best lawn in 2026, you must apply a pre-emergent to your lawn before the end of February.
If you subscribe to a Hall | Stewart Lawn Care Program, you can count on receiving your application before any chance of summer weed germination begins.
If you are not currently subscribed to a Hall | Stewart Lawn Care Program, give us a call (405)367-3873 or click the link & we will provide you with a Free Professional Lawn Evaluation.
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
January Lawn + Landscape Tips
Happy New Year to Your Lawn & Landscape!
For those who are always in pursuit of their best lawn and landscape, January is the month to review the year just completed and plan for the season to come.
Besides reviewing and planning for the season, there a few critical things to do in January that will make a big difference in the success of your lawn and landscape in 2026:
Top of the list for January: Make sure your lawn and landscape has sufficient moisture!
Moisture
The biggest challenge for your winter landscape is lack of moisture. The Oklahoma City metro area is currently on week 6 without a good rainfall. December was our second driest December on record. One of the most critical aspects of plant winter survival is good soil moisture. Through the winter keep an eye on rainfall and soil moisture. Anytime we go 7-10 days without any moisture, rain, or snow, be prepared to water. Evergreen plants, both needle and broadleaf, are most susceptible to winter damage when we have a dry winter. Don’t forget to inspect containers, raised plantings, and plantings under the eaves of your house are the first to become too dry.
Irrigation Best Practice – If your system has a rain/freeze sensor and if your system does not need to be winterized (Backflow has heat protection), set your system to run through a cycle one time per week in the afternoon.
If it is above freezing and it hasn’t rained, the system will run through a cycle.
Mulch
A great landscape practice for improving survivability of your landscape plantings is a fresh layer of mulch. A 2-3” layer of mulch will provide insulation for your plant roots, retain moisture, and moderate soil temperatures.
Lawn Pre-Emergent
Your best chance to have a weed free lawn in 2026 is to apply a pre-emergent in January or February. The purpose of a pre-emergent is to prevent weed seeds from germinating. The next weeds to germinate in your lawn will be the ones that haunt you all summer. Spring and summer weeds will start growing as soon as soil temperatures start to warm in early March.
A great time to control grassy weeds in dormant Bermuda is January and February .
Nonselective herbicides can be used while the turf is completely dormant to control any weeds that are actively growing.
Your best chance for a weed free lawn this season is to apply a pre-emergent in January or February.
If you are a subscriber to a Hall | Stewart’s Lawn Care Program, we will be visiting your lawn very soon to apply the critical first application of the year to prevent spring and summer weeds.
Lawn Post-Emergent
If you have a warm season lawn (Bermuda and Zoysia), now that we have received freezing temperatures it is one of the best times to gain control of troublesome grassy and broadleaf weeds. Nonselective weed control (herbicides that control anything that is actively growing) can be used while the turf is completely dormant. Now is also a good time to control broadleaf weeds growing in fescue, but do not use a nonselective herbicide on fescue. Always read the labels, know your turf type, and only apply herbicides labeled for your turf type.
Tree Trim
During winter dormancy, tree trimming is a great practice. Remove low hanging branches, crossing branches, and branches growing into the interior of the tree. Also, remove branches that may compete with the central leader.
For more information on tree trimming, visit our post from December 7th, Winter Tree Pruning – Improve Your Landscape Investment.
Dormant Oil
During January and February, one of the best things you can do to prepare your landscape plants for the season is to treat them with a dormant oil. Dormant oils smother overwintering insects (aphids, scale, mites, etc.) that often are some of the most difficult to control.
Crape myrtle bark scale activity has increased over the past few seasons. Scale is a white insect with a hard shell that appears on the bark. Dormant oils applied in January-February is the first step for controlling the pest. If your landscape includes crape myrtles, you need a dormant oil application every year.
When leaves accumulate in the corners of your lawn during the winter they become a collecting place for insects and disease.
Soil Test
If your lawn, shrubs, or trees struggled in 2025, now would be a great time to check the soil pH and nutrients.
Key soil measurements that determine soil health include pH, total exchange capacity, organic matter and nutrients.
Unhealthy Soil = Sick Lawn & Landscape
Soil Test Results + Recommendations = Healthy Lawn & Landscape
When key soil measurements are out of balance, your lawn and landscape will not respond correctly to fertilizer and weed control applications.
Give Hall | Stewart a call and we will gather a sample and take it to the lab. With soil test results, we will formulate a custom plan to return your lawn to a healthy condition.
Leaf Clean-up
Keep your lawn and landscape clear of leaves through the winter. If you allow leaves to collect on your fescue lawn, in the corners and around objects, you will find the fescue thinner in the spring. Also, leaves are a collecting place for insects and disease over the winter.
Mower Maintenance
During the mowing off season take your lawn equipment in for annual winter service. Most lawn equipment stores offer specials during January on oil changes, lubrication, blade sharpening, and repairs. Annual preventive maintenance often keeps you from experiencing the frustration and hassle of repair issues during the growing season and extends your mower life.
Set Lawn and Landscape Goals for 2026
Here are a few practices that may be just what you need to take your lawn and landscape from good to great in 2026:
Aeration – Our best lawns, the ones with the healthiest root system, thickest turf, best weed resistance and most drought tolerant are the ones that receive annual aeration.
Soil Test – If your lawn is slow to respond to fertilizer and weed treatments, it could be that you have a soil imbalance. A simple test will tell us what we need to know to create your best lawn.
Fall Overseed – Annual fescue seeding any area of your lawn that does not receive at least 5 hours a full sunlight daily to eliminate thinning and bare areas is an important step in having a great lawn.
Watering Habits – Make it a goal to learn the best way to water your lawn. A healthy lawn and landscape is watered infrequently and deeply. Frequency and length of watering is different for every lawn. Set aside time early in the season to discover the best way to water your lawn.
Landscape Refresh – From seasonal color plantings to your front landscape to your outdoor living spaces, what needs to be refreshed this year?
Plant Health Care – Your landscape represents an important investment in your property. Annual inspection and treatment of your trees and shrubs is a good practice.
Lawn and Landscape Journal – Make it a habit of taking lawn and landscape pictures and making notes through the seasons. Every season, every year is different. Having good notes helps you adjust to changing conditions from season to season.
If you have any questions, or if you need help making 2026 your best lawn and landscape year, please give us a call (405)367-3873, or simply respond to this email.
One Important Winter Note – Avoid walking on fescue lawns when temperatures are below freezing or there is frost as it will cause damage that will last into the spring.
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
Happy New Year!
Here’s to the week between Christmas and New Years!
The pace is still a little slower…
Extra time with family and friends continues…
And, good or bad depending on your view, there are often holiday sweets still within arm’s reach.
The week between Christmas and New Years is a favorite of mine. It is the week when my thoughts turn toward reflection of the past 12 months and my mind starts anticipating the possibilities of a new year.
Reviewing and setting goals has been a part of my New Year’s tradition as long as I can remember.
How about you?
Do you make it a practice to review your year and set goals for the new year?
What is your favorite method?
A few of my favorite goal setting concepts over the years have been SMART Goals (Specific, Measurable, Achievable, Relevant and Time-bound) and One Word (Choosing a single word to guide your goals).
December through January, while the schedules at Hall | Stewart are not quite as hectic, we have made it a practice to gather the entire team for a book study.
Over the last few years our Winter Learning Series has delved into the better business strategies found in Jack Stack’s The Great Game of Business.
We have learned the key is to care, through an in-depth walk-through of Ken Blanchard’s Legendary Service.
And, we learned up-serving, increasing what we can do for others, is the key to sales in our study of Daniel Pink’s To Sell is Human.
This winter, to help each of us grow personally, we are digging into James Clear’s Atomic Habits.
Atomic: 1. An extremely small amount of a thing; the single irreducible unit of a larger system. 2. The source of immense energy or power.
Habit: 1. A routine or practice performed regularly, an automatic response to a specific situation.
In Atomic Habits, James Clear challenges prevailing wisdom claims that all you need to do is set specific, actionable goals. Yes, he agrees we need goals, but what you really need is a system, processes that lead to those goals.
Goals are about the results you want to achieve.
Systems are about the processes that lead to those results.
The purpose of setting a goal is to win the game.
The purpose of building systems is to continue to play the game.
Goals are good for setting a direction, systems are best for making progress.
Focus on the system, not the goal.
Bill Walsh: “The score takes care of itself.”
Habits are the atoms of our lives. Each one contributes to your overall improvement. At first, they are insignificant but then they start fueling each other. They are small and mighty.
If you can get 1% better each day for a year, you will be 37x better in one year. Habits are the compound interest of self-improvement. They seem to make little difference yet over the months and years they can be enormous.
Outcomes are a lagging measure of your habits.
Success is a gradual evolution, a long series of small wins and tiny breakthroughs. The only way to make progress is to start small.
Atomic habits are a routine, small, easy to do system that is the source of incredible power.
Want to learn more about Clear’s systems for creating habits to improve your life? https://jamesclear.com/atomic-habits
May your 2026 be filled with small 1% improvements that compound into enormous improvement in the months and years to come.
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873