Protect Your Landscape Investment…. Why Plant Health Care is Important
Your landscape represents a big investment.
And a well maintained, healthy landscape is a very good investment!
Research by Project Evergreen, a non-profit committed to creating a greener, healthier, cooler earth, found:
A well landscaped and maintained landscape can increase a home’s value 15 to 20% at the time of resale. A neat lawn and healthy landscape suggest the homeowners have taken good care of the property, leading buyers to perceive the home is more valuable.
Properties with an attractive and healthy landscape tend to sell faster.
Well-maintained landscapes contribute to the overall aesthetic of the neighborhood. There is an elevated perceived quality of the entire area, boosting property values.
A healthy landscape can improve environmental conditions by reducing soil erosion, improving air quality, and reducing home energy cost.
All great reasons why it is important to protect your landscape investment.
But, there is another reason to protect your landscape investment…shrubs and trees are expensive. Expensive, yes, and worth it.
Every year a healthy landscape is increasing in value, increasing your property’s beauty and increasing your home value.
According to the Council of Tree and Landscape Appraisers,
a mature tree can have an appraised value between $1,000 and $10,000.
Caring for your landscape is well worth it!
Caring for your landscape investment pays off!
What is Plant Health Care?
Plant Health Care is a systematic approach to the care of landscape plants, trees and shrubs, which can save you money, create a healthy landscape, and reduce the amount of toxic chemicals in your landscape. A good program employs the practice of Integrated Pest Management (IPM). The key to IPM is monitoring and inspecting landscape plant materials on a regular schedule, using preventive and proactive approaches to insect and disease management, and applying controls when needed to protect your landscape investment.
Hall | Stewart’s Tree & Shrub Care Program is built around the philosophy of preventive and proactive health care.
During late winter and early spring, our program focuses on the use of dormant oils. Dormant oils work by suffocating and smothering overwintering insects. Dormant oils are a preventive plant health care solution that can reduce the need to use insecticides during the season to control plant damaging insects.
Throughout the spring, as your landscape is coming alive, Hall | Stewart’s Tree & Shrub Care Program has two focuses: systemic insecticides and soil health.
Systemic Insecticides - This application is a proactive approach to reducing the severity of chewing and sucking insects during the growing season.
A few of the most common issues our proactive systemic insecticide application is designed to control:
Bagworms - Active from May through September. Favorite host plants are juniper, arborvitae, spruce, pine, cedar, but can infest deciduous trees and shrubs. Heavy infestations can kill a plant.
Be on the lookout for any plants that don’t look their best. Notice the slight color difference between these two Taylor Junipers? After close inspection, bagworms were found feeding on the one on the left.
Be on the lookout for any plants that don’t look their best. Notice the slight color difference between these two Taylor Junipers? After close inspection, bagworms were found feeding on the one on the left.
Although not as common bagworms will feed on deciduous trees. If you notice skeletonized leaves, look close, most likely there are bagworms attacking the tree.
Aphids - Active in April and increase rapidly as temperatures rise. The honeydew, sticky substance they excrete is the easiest way to know aphids are active. Heavy populations can cause wilt and yellowing of leaves as the sap is removed. Blooming trees and shrubs will see a reduction in flowers.
Aphids are small and often go unnoticed but the sticky substance they leave behind is easy to spot.
Aphids feed on the underside of the leaf and become noticeable as the leaf becomes covered with the sticky substance they excrete.
Spider Mites - Active from early summer through fall. The hotter and drier the weather, the more severe the problem will become.First shows up as stippling of light dots on the leaves. Leaves then turn from bronze to yellow and then fall off.
Early signs of spider mites.
To know if you have spider mites shake leaves over a white sheet of paper.
Spider mites will look like tiny moving black dots.
Silk protective webbing formed by the spider mite.
Crape Myrtle Scale - Active May through September. The scale is white to gray and exudes a pink blood-like liquid when crushed. Initially you will notice a black sooty mold on the twigs and trunks of crape myrtles. Bark scale is difficult to control without the use of a systemic insecticide to kill the sucking pests.
This 25 year old Crape Myrtle was suffering from Crape Myrtle Scale. One year after trunk injections of a systemic insecticide and the mature tree is once again healthy and insect free.
White scale attacks Crape Myrtles leaving a black sooty substance on the bark.
Soil Health – In our urban and suburban environment, trees and shrubs often become stressed due to poor soils, insufficient moisture, lack of nutrients and harsh growing conditions. Our program uses high quality micro-nutrient fertilizer to provide consistent, extended feeding for your plants. The product improves soil structure, reduces plant stress, increases soil water retention, and promotes root growth and plant vigor without excessive shoot growth.
If you would like to know more about Hall | Stewart’s Tree & Shrub Care Programs or have a professional evaluation of your landscape, please give us a call (405)367-3873 or simply reply to this email.
Our goal is to help you protect your landscape investment.
Why, because trees and shrubs are well worth it!
As Steve Dobbs, author of the book Oklahoma Gardener’s Guide put it:
“Trees are truly the pillars of our landscapes. Think of trees as an investment for future generations.”
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
Oklahoma's State Tree... the Redbud!
What a crazy weather pattern! The weekend started with near record highs yesterday with a forecast for temperatures in the mid 20’s for tonight!
Temperatures in the mid 20’s isn’t uncommon for central Oklahoma in mid-March, but what is highly unusual is how warm we were in February. February set a record for the warmest in Oklahoma City history.
It is typical for us to ask you in mid-March if you are ready for one of the best reasons to love Oklahoma…the coming annual Redbud color show! But this year with an early, warm spring, we are well into our second week of Redbuds exploding with color throughout the Oklahoma landscapes. In a typical year, they start blooming in mid-March and last through early April.
Before we jump into one of my favorite topics, let’s address what we can expect if temperatures actually fall to 25 degrees tonight. After all, our lawns, trees and shrubs have far more fresh new leaves, buds and blooms than they normally do with a hard freeze expected in just a few hours.
If temperatures drop to 28-30 degrees…
Blooms on trees, shrubs, tulips will show signs of light freeze damage with brown and weathered appearing tips and edges
Already green Bermuda lawns will lose some color
If temperatures drop to 25-27 degrees…
More blooms will show damage — although, in protected areas some blooms may survive
Bermuda lawns will lose all their color and return mostly to winter brown.
If temperatures drop below 25 degrees…
Expect all blooming trees, shrubs, and bulbs will lose all their blooms.
The variable factors that can make a difference is wind, cloud cover and how many hours the temperature remains below freezing. Low winds, a cloudy night, and temperature dip followed by a quick recovery will do less damage.
What can you do to prepare?
Most importantly…WATER your lawn and landscape today with a good deep soaking. This winter ranks as in the Top 10 of Driest Winters. Unless you have been watering weekly through the winter, your lawn and landscape is not prepared for a hard freeze tonight.
Covering blooming tulips and shrubs will provide protection. Use a breathable fabric, such as sheet, or burlap.
Now, let’s return to a more enjoyable subject…Redbuds in Oklahoma!
You have to love some of Oklahoma’s crazy state symbols:
Our state floral emblem is Mistletoe. Really? Mistletoe is an unwanted parasite that harms trees.
Our state vegetable is the Watermelon. Watermelon? Watermelon is a vegetable? Well, come July I’ll be eating a lot of vegetables!
But, when it comes to a state tree, Oklahoma couldn’t have selected a better tree.
There is no better flowering tree than the Redbud, especially the ‘Oklahoma’ Redbud.
Michael Dirr, easily considered America’s leading woody plant expert, wrote in his textbook Dirr’s Hardy Trees and Shrubs about Redbuds:
“No equal, no competitor, can be found among small flowering landscape trees – the stage is reserved for this native species.”
I agree!
Eastern Redbuds are native to the Eastern US from Massachusetts to Florida extending west to Kansas, Oklahoma, and Texas. In the native landscape, you typically see them as understory trees in wooded areas.
From mid-March to early April, you can’t miss them. Their pink to lavender flowers brighten the landscape before leaves bud on most trees. They grow in full sun and partial shade. They tolerate clay, loam, and sandy soils. They adapt to a wide range of soil pH as well as soil moisture.
But, the native Eastern Redbud has its shortcomings. During the summer, the leaves are a disappointment in Oklahoma. The hot winds of July and August leave the native Redbud leaves tattered and bruised.
Thankfully, Oklahoma has an answer to the Eastern Redbud –
the ‘Oklahoma’ Redbud, Cercis Canadensis var. texensis ‘Oklahoma’.
The ‘Oklahoma’ Redbud has a deeper purple color bloom and a waxy, thick, dark green, heart-shaped leaf. The ‘Oklahoma’ is far richer in color in the spring and carries beautiful foliage through the hottest of summers. In the fall, the leaves turn golden yellow.
‘Oklahoma’ Redbuds can be used in every imaginable landscape application. They are excellent lawn trees. They are dynamic in groupings. And, they add interest to landscape beds.
Redbuds grow 15-18’ tall and have a spread of 15’ at maturity. Their small tree nature tends to produce a low branching, rounded top-growing pattern.
The Redbud rooting pattern can lead to difficulty in transplanting. When selecting a balled and burlap tree, it is best if the tree is harvested and replanted during the dormant season. A good size to start with is a 1.5” to 2” caliper tree (Tree caliper is the diameter of the tree trunk measured 6” above the soil). If you are planting a Redbud during the growing season, I would recommend purchasing a container grown tree, as there is less transplant shock.
A redbud in Oklahoma City that is starting to bud this week.
Other varieties of Redbud include:
‘Forest Pansy’ which has a shimmering, reddish-purple leaf. This Redbud is a real winner in the spring. But, in the early summer the leaves fade worse than the Eastern Redbud leaves. If you decide to try this variety, select a place in your landscape where the tree will be shielded from the hot west sun and southern winds.
‘Texas Whitebud’ is a white blooming variety of the ‘Oklahoma’. It also has waxy, dark green leaves through the summer.
'Avondale' is a little smaller, reaching only 10-12' in height and width. It is one of the most profuse flowering redbuds with very showy dark rose-purple flowers. It also has a glossy, heart-shaped leaf.
'Lavender Twist' is a weeping redbud with rosy-pink flowers. The umbrella branching pattern only reaches 5-6' tall making it a good specimen for a focal point in the landscape.
'Merlot' is a new hybrid with dark foliage similar to the 'forest pansy' but has glossier leaves that take the summer heat similar to the 'Oklahoma' redbud.
‘Rising Sun’ rosy-lavender flowers and traditional heart shaped leaves that turn from yellow to orange maturing to lime green during the summer. Reaches 8-10’ in height with an 8’ spread.
‘Flame Thrower’ a new cultivar, a cross between the Rising Sun and a weeping Redbud, introduced by North Caroline State University. Individual leaves transition from purple to red to reddish-bronze and finally to yellow-green as they mature.
For more Redbud varieties, click this link https://www.monrovia.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=redbud
‘Rising Sun’
‘Rising Sun’
Texas Whitebud
Flame Thrower
‘Whitebud’
One final reason why I think the Redbud is one of our best trees –
It blooms only on the old wood! Stop and look at one. You will notice that the last 6-12” of each branch doesn’t have any blooms. All of last year’s growth is void of color. All the color is on the two-year old and older wood, occasionally even the trunk will bloom. Typically, trees and shrubs bloom on the end of the branches. Early blooming plants bloom on the growth from last year, such as azalea. Summer bloomers, such as the Crape Myrtle, bloom on the new growth from the spring. The Redbud is unique in only blooming on wood at least one year old.
Jim Paluch in his book, Leaving a Legacy, tells the story of seven senior citizens who discover the magic of the Redbud blooming only on old wood. They were inspired to not spend their later years withering away. They asked, “If a Redbud can bloom on its old wood, why can’t we?” The seven men struck out to make a difference in their community during their elder years.
Just this week I had the pleasure of spending a few minutes with a Hall | Stewart customer who a few years ago retired from a career as an arborist in Chicago and moved to Oklahoma to be near family. We briefly visited about the trees he had planted in his Oklahoma lawn, and of course, he had planted an ‘Oklahoma Redbud’. I left inspired by a retired arborist and his love for trees and thought “He’s still blooming!”
It’s spring…
Redbuds are blooming…
Time to get outside…
Take a walk around your neighborhood…
Go on a bike ride…
Take a drive...
Enjoy the Redbuds!
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
Often Asked Spring Weed Control Questions
The warm February has our landscapes bursting to life earlier than usual.
Usually, the first week of March we are eagerly anticipating the bright yellows of Forsythia, the pink-purple Redbuds, the myriads of colorful Tulips….not this year! This year the landscape is already gleaming with the colors of spring.
Spring is such a wonderful time of year!
But, there is bad news with spring too...
Spring also means lawns that have not been on a regularly scheduled lawn care program are bursting with weeds.
Flowering Quince is one of the early spring bloomers. Quince grows well in full sun to partial shade and has a dense spreading growth pattern.
Blooming Forsythia is a sign that you need to get a pre-emergent on your lawn if you haven’t already.
Who doesn’t love the bright color of Creeping Phlox in the early spring landscape?
Weeds generate a lot of questions this time of year. Let’s visit about a few of the most asked questions:
Is it too late to apply a pre-emergent herbicide?
Why is it so important to prevent crabgrass?
Why is it important to apply a second pre-emergent application in the spring?
If I put a pre-emergent on my lawn every year in the spring, why do I have weeds now?
Before we get to the questions, let’s break down the word “pre-emergent”:
Pre - before.
Emerge – come into view, to be seen.
A pre-emergent herbicide is used to prevent annual weed seeds from germinating by drying out the unwanted weed seed before it starts to grow.
Pre-emergent herbicides have little to no impact on weeds we are already seeing.
Henbit, an annual winter weed that is littering lawns is easy to prevent with fall pre-emergent applications.
Crabgrass seedling
Early Summer Crabgrass
Mid-Summer Crabgrass
A clean weed free lawn in August is the result of two timely pre-emergent applications in the spring.
Commonly asked pre-emergent questions:
“Is it too late to apply a pre-emergent herbicide?” (The most asked lawn care question this time of year.)
Crabgrass, the most feared annual summer weed, germinates when soil temperatures reach 55 degrees for 3 consecutive days, which is typically mid-March in central Oklahoma. This year we had a string of days with 55-degree soil temperatures the third week of February, very unusual. Since then, they dipped back into the upper 40s only to quickly rebound back into the mid-50s.
Crabgrass is a very prolific yellowish to light green annual grassy weed that is east to prevent with a pre-emergent herbicide application.
Untreated lawns, especially thin turf areas, will have a healthy stand of crabgrass by mid April.
It is never too late to put a pre-emergent on your lawn!
There are two reasons why it is never too late to start a weed control program:
1. The high quality professional pre-emergent herbicide we use will control newly germinated crabgrass during the early stages of development. So, if you do not apply a pre-emergent before germination, we can gain complete control if an application is within the first few weeks of germination.
2. Not all crabgrass seeds germinate all at once. Germination will continue through the spring and early summer. Even if you don’t get a pre-emergent on at the perfect time, having some prevention is better than none.
“Why is it so important to prevent crabgrass?”
Crabgrass is the most prolific summer annual grassy weed. As an annual it dies every year and comes back from seed the next year.
If you do not apply a pre-emergent on your lawn every spring it is certain that you will have crabgrass in your lawn during the summer.
Crabgrass is a fast grower and if left unattended will rapidly dominate turf. Just like the name suggests, it spreads low to the ground. It can be found in almost every turf and landscape setting during the summer months where a pre-emergent was not applied.
During the summer crabgrass grows faster than turfgrass and thrives under stressful conditions of drought, heat, and low soil fertility, when turf is struggling.
Crabgrass dies in the fall after the first hard frost. But before it dies, one mature crabgrass will produce thousands of seeds.
Crabgrass will make a home in thin areas of turf this summer. Two keys to preventing crabgrass are two timely pre-emergent applications and a thick healthy lawn.
Why is it important to apply a second pre-emergent application in the spring?
Pre-emergent herbicides work by creating a barrier over the soil surface. The barrier gradually weakens over the season from foot traffic, mowing and periods of heavy rain. The edges of the lawn are the first to break down. The purpose of a second pre-emergent is to provide protection throughout the summer months.
“Without two pre-emergent applications, crabgrass germination will happen before the summer season is over. The goal with a second application is to prevent weed germination as long as you can. Without a good barrier crabgrass germination will continue into July. With a second application you are pushing summer annual weed prevention all the way into August.”
Tom Stewart, co-founder of Hall | Stewart
Another reason for a second pre-emergent is to prevent other troublesome summer grassy weeds: goosegrass and sandbur.
Goosegrass germinates when soil temperatures reach 60 to 65 degrees. Because of the later germination period, it is common for goosegrass to dominate in lawns that only receive the first pre-emergent of the year. Goosegrass is common in areas of high foot traffic, compacted and poorly drained soils. Like most grassy weeds, prevention is the best medicine. Aeration is also a key step in reducing goosegrass.
Sandburs start germinating at 55 degrees soil temperatures, but they reach peak germination much later at 75 degree soil temperatures. A second pre-emergent application is critical for the prevention of sandburs. Another important characteristic of sandburs is they thrive in thin, dry turf. Two spring pre-emergent herbicide applications and a thick, healthy turf are the best defenses.
If I put a pre-emergent on my lawn every spring, why do I have weeds now?
The most common weeds in lawns right now are henbit, chickweed and poa annua. All three are winter annual weeds. Henbit and chickweed are winter annual broadleaf weeds. Poa annua is a winter annual grassy weed.
Winter annual weeds need to be prevented in the fall with a pre-emergent herbicide just like summer annual weeds need to be prevented now. Winter annual weeds start germinating in September as soon as we start getting cool fall nights. Two fall pre-emergent applications are just as important as spring applications to have a weed free lawn.
The winter annual weeds currently in lawns can be controlled by mixing a post emergent herbicide with the pre-emergent application. By this time of year winter annual weeds are reaching maturity. As annual weeds mature their growth slows as they put their energy toward flowering and producing seeds before they die.
The challenge is weeds are slower to react to weed control applications as they mature. As growth slows, they do not draw in the herbicides as quickly as they do when they are actively growing.
The solution to a clean lawn this time of year is to apply fall pre-emergent herbicides to prevent winter annual weeds.
It is always easier to prevent a weed than it is to control a mature one.
Two important take aways -
If you haven’t put a pre-emergent on your lawn yet this spring, it is not too late. But the sooner the better!
If you have put a pre-emergent on your lawn it is important to put a second application on your lawn for season long weed prevention!
The timing of pre-emergent applications, the quality of the herbicide applied, and the right quantity are all critical components for achieving your best lawn this season.
If you are a subscriber to a Hall | Stewart Lawn Care Program, either the 7-Step Weed Control & Fertilizer or the 4-Step Weed Control Only, your lawn receives the critical First Pre-emergent Application and the important Second Pre-emergent Application every spring.
If you are not a subscriber to a Hall | Stewart Lawn Care Program, please contact us.
We want to make sure you receive timely pre-emergent herbicides to stop weeds before they start wreaking havoc on your lawn.
Preventing weeds is much easier on your lawn than trying to control them after they are up and growing. Once weeds take root, harsher products must be used that may slow turf development.
If you have questions or would like additional information about pre-emergent applications, please respond to this email or give us a call.
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn Care Programs
(405)367-3873
March Lawn & Landscape Tips
The warm days of February have delivered us an early launch toward spring.
It is common at the beginning of March to be reeling from a late February cold spell while anticipating the soon to come burst of life in our landscapes.
Hey! It’s time to get outside. Don’t delay, spring is on the fast track this year.
It’s time to walk the neighborhood.
It’s time to stroll the Myriad Gardens and Scissortail Park.
It’s March! Our world is bursting to life!
March, the month to be outside and discover something new in the landscape!
Enjoy every minute of every spring-like day!
Here are a few lawn and landscape tasks you should tackle this month:
The annual tulip color show is starting in landscapes around the metro.
Flowering Peach is an early spring blooming small tree that adds splashes of pinks and reds to the March landscape.
Forsythia
If you haven't already, cut your fescue lawn to remove the freeze damaged leaf tips and soon the lawn will return to full color and start growing.
Spring Lawn Maintenance
Get the mower out and get started. It is much easier to remove the winter damaged leaf blades before the turf begins to green-up. Remember, scalping on the lowest setting isn’t required and isn’t recommended. Simply mow the lawn at the height you plan to start the mowing season.
For most Bermuda lawns, the second setting is recommended. For fescue, start on the second or third notch on your mower.
We are often asked about dethatching at this time of year.
What is dethatching? Dethatching is the removal of excessive thatch builds up on the soil surface by using a vertical power rake.
But, unless you have a thick layer of ½-1” or more of thatch, dethatching causes more damage to the crown of the plants than it does good. So, with only a few exceptions, the best method for reducing thatch is an initial spring lawn maintenance followed by aeration after spring green-up. Unnecessary dethatching and scalping the lawn too low removes the canopy opening the lawn up to disease and weeds.
Need more info on the first mowing of the season? Check out last week’s post!
With a warmer than normal February, tulips are already starting to grace the landscape with bright colors.
Lawn Maintenance
As soil temperatures climb and occasional spring rains return, as soon as you remove the winter damaged leaf tips from your fescue lawns, they will regain color and start growing. Start your cool season lawn off right by maintaining it at 2 ½ - 3”. When it starts growing mow frequently enough that you are never removing more than 1/3 of the leaf blade per cutting. So, if you plan to maintain a 3” level, don’t allow the lawn to grow past 4.5” without giving it a trim.
If you have warm season turf, bermuda or zoysia, after you cut the lawn for the first time to remove the brown winter damaged leaf blades, most likely you can put off regularly scheduled lawn mowing until April.
Saucer Magnolia is a small deciduous tree with saucer-shaped white, pink or purple blooms in early spring. It makes a great specimen tree from the spectacular spring blooms to its spreading, multi-trucked shape.
Tulips.
Saucer Magnolia is a spring favorite.
The Dallas Arboretum and Botanical Gardens' Dallas Blooms continues through April 12th. They claim Dallas Blooms is the largest annual floral festival in the southwest.
One of the first shrubs to announce spring is forsythia. Interesting tidbit: when forsythia starts blooming it is an indicator that crabgrass has started germinating.
Lawn Weed Control
Summer annual weeds begin germinating when soil temperatures consistently reach 55 degrees. With the above normal temperatures through most of February soil temperatures reached 55 degrees earlier than normal, the third week of February, and then dipped back into the upper 40s after last weekend’s colder nighttime temperatures. Unless we have another cold spell, we are on course to see soil temperatures consistently reach 55 degrees in early March.
If you have not applied the first spring pre-emergent yet, please do so as quickly as possible. Whether you apply a pre-emergent yourself, or we do it for you, always follow instructions. Watering is a required step to move the herbicide into the top ½” of soil.
Need to know more about the timing of the first pre-emergent application?
This is the month landscapes are filled with the bright pinkish-red colors of Redbuds, the Oklahoma State tree
Lawn Fertilization
This month is a good time to start fertilizing your cool season lawns. Use a fertilizer with 25-30% nitrogen. Cool season lawns need to be fed more in the spring and fall when they are actively growing, and less in the summer.
If you have a warm season lawn, wait until lawns begin greening up to apply the first fertilizer application.
Bed Weed Control
March is an excellent month to apply a plant safe pre-emergent to your landscape plantings. Use caution in selecting the product to make sure it is safe for your plants. When possible, select a granular pre-emergent mixed with a fertilizer containing approximately 20% nitrogen. Doing so will give your plants a good spring feeding while preventing weeds at the same time.
Tree & Shrub Care
If you struggled with aphids, mites or scale in the past year you still have time to apply a dormant oil application for another couple of weeks. Dormant oils work by suffocating, smoother overwintering insects. Oil blocks the air holes causing the insect to suffocate. Dormant oils are an eco-friendlier approach to insect control by reducing the need for harsher control methods later.
Hall | Stewart’s Tree & Shrub Care Program Application #2 starts in March and continues through April. The application includes systemic insecticide and fertilizer. The application is designed to make sure your landscape investment is healthy and growing this season.
Spring is a good time to fertilize trees and shrubs with slow-release nitrogen, high quality phosphorus and potassium as well as micronutrients to provide consistent, extended feeding. This formulation is ideal for improving tree and ornamental development and vigor without unwanted shoot growth.
Spring is also a good time to apply systemic insecticide to control sucking and chewing insects.
Pansies, as long as their crown was not damaged by January’s cold spell, are returning to life and will add color to the landscape well into May.
Hyacinth is one of the first spring blooming bulbs to add splashes of color to the landscape.
Not all the colors of spring are blooms. Be on the watch for the bright colors of new leaves such as the yellow, oranges and reds of Goldmound Spirea.
Mulch
Spring is a great time to mulch your landscape plantings. Maintaining a 2” layer of organic mulch will reduce weed population, retain soil moisture, and provide a more consistent soil temperature for plant roots. I find adding mulch an easier task in the spring when I am cleaning my landscape plantings for the first time.
Irrigation
It is always important to monitor rainfall and water based on need. This winter ranked as one of the driest for the Oklahoma City metro area. If forecasters are correct, we will receive a good rainfall this week. But until we get at least ½” rainfall, continue to monitor soil moisture and give your lawn and landscape a good soaking every 4 to 7 days. As temperatures warm up, gradually increase the frequency of watering but delay starting every other day watering cycle until late spring to early summer.
Flowering Quince is another shrub that is one of the first to bloom with branches loaded with red flowers before they leaf out.
Spring Seasonal Color
Pansies are the toughest winter annual color, but it is common for them to look a little freeze burned after the winter. As long as the crown of the plant was not damaged, they have started to return to life and bloom. The great thing about pansies is they add color to the landscape until it is warm enough to plant summer annuals.
Wait until April to plant impatient, begonia, geranium, etc. And remember, most summer annuals need the warmer soil temperatures of late April or May before they are planted. If you get in a hurry, you will end up planting your summer annual color twice. When planting remember most plants prefer well drained, organic soil and would prefer you add compost when planting.
Redbuds, Oklahoma’s State Tree, are off to an early start this year.
Seeding Fescue
March is the second-best time to overseed fescue. But it comes in a very distant second to seeding in the fall. Spring seeded fescue will come up very well and look very good till the summer heat arrives - then it fades quickly. Fescue, being a cool season grass, does not establish a sustainable root system when planted in the spring. Give your fescue lawn a chance to green up first to get a better feel on the overall condition of the lawn. If you still feel you have bare areas that need to be addressed now, seed this month but still plan on seeding again in the fall. In most cases waiting till fall to seed is best. Fall seeding allows you to focus on weed prevention and turf development in the spring and turf establishment in the fall when it is best.
Bridal Wreath Spirea will add graceful white blooms toward the end of March.
Creeping Phlox is one of the first perennials to announce spring has arrived.
Pruning
March is the time to do heavy pruning on your roses. March is also the best time to make a major reduction in the size of hollies, boxwoods and most broadleaf evergreens. Before spring growth arrives, you can successfully remove all the foliage back to the central leader if needed.
When it comes to hydrangeas, most gardeners feel uncertain and confused about when and how much to prune hydrangeas. The truth is most hydrangeas do not need to be pruned at all. It is common to have some branch die back after the winter in our area. A common mistake is to get in a hurry when pruning back the winter damage. Be patient, don’t get in a hurry to remove dead branches. Wait until late March or even April before pruning off the dead branches. Pruning earlier, or pruning to the ground in the spring, could reduce or eliminate blooming this season. When it is time to prune back the dead ends, make your cuts at an angle just above the highest green bud.
Wait until late March or even April to prune the dead tip branches from Hydrangeas. Prune the dead branch ends by making an angle cut just above the highest bud.
If you need help with any of your lawn and landscape tasks, or just have a few questions, please don’t hesitate to give us a call or send us an email.
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
The First Ritual of Spring
Does spring have a sound?
It does. It is the sound of lawn equipment firing up for the first time.
Following a very cold and snowy last week of January, the weather made an abrupt turn in February and sprinted right toward spring. This may be the earliest I have seen phlox, forsythia and saucer magnolias starting to bloom.
Ready or not…Welcome to Spring!
It’s time to get the lawn equipment out and kick off the season!
Let’s cover the first ritual of spring…the first lawn mowing:
When is the right time for spring lawn maintenance?
The best time is between the last week of February and mid-March. The goal is to do it after the last chance for extended cold weather and before spring green up.
How low do I need to cut the lawn the first time?
This will be the most often asked question over the next few weeks.
The old rule was to cut the lawn as short as the mower would go. Homeowners would brag about getting their lawn shorter than their neighbor. The more dirt exposed, the better.
But, why? What is the purpose of scalping your lawn to the dirt? Is that the best thing for your lawn?
The practice of scalping your lawn in the spring on the lowest setting isn’t needed and isn’t beneficial for your lawn.
But, there is something you should do every spring – the initial spring lawn maintenance.
It is common for Fescue to end up over 3” tall. 1.5-2” is a good starting height in the spring.
Spring lawn maintenance is the process of cutting the lawn to the height you plan to start mowing this spring. The purpose is to remove the cold damaged leaf blades allowing the crown, stolons, and rhizomes to grow. It is not good to cut the lawn so short you see dirt.
What is the difference?
Lawn scalping is setting your mower on the lowest setting, cutting the lawn as short as possible, often exposing some soil in the process. But, anytime you expose dirt in your lawn you are opening the opportunity for more weeds to germinate. And, when you scalp as low as possible, you run the risk of damaging the plant crown. Damage to the crown will result in a weaker root system and a stressed lawn through spring and into the early summer.
Spring Lawn Maintenance is the practice of setting your mower height at or just below the height you plan to start mowing for the season. This sets the lawn up for you to gradually increase the cutting height through the spring and summer with your lawn reaching its maximum height during the heat of late summer. If you plan to start your lawn off for the season on the second notch on your mower, then do the initial spring lawn maintenance at the same height.
Often Bermuda lawns end the season at 2-3” tall. Cutting it down to 1” is a good place to start the season.
Warm season turfs, Bermuda and Zoysia, go completely dormant during the winter, so removing the brown leaf blades is necessary. The leaf blades (grass shoots) are damaged by the winter freezes and do not green back up. In the spring, the crown, stolon, and tillers will green back up. So, only leaf blades need to be removed, not the crown or stolon.
Fescue lawn before Spring Lawn Maintenance has removed the freeze damaged grass tips.
Fescue lawn after Spring Lawn Maintenance.
Should I remove the clippings or leave them on the lawn?
Bag the clippings or rake them up after mowing. Removing the clippings is always a good practice anytime you are removing more than 1/3 of the grass blade in one mowing whether it is dormant or green.
Fescue lawn 3 weeks after Spring Lawn Maintenance
If I have a fescue lawn, is spring lawn maintenance required?
For the best spring green up, I would recommend mowing the lawn just a little shorter than you left it at the end of last season. Fescue and rye leaf blades often have brown tips from the winter cold. If you remove the brown leaf tips soon, your lawn will develop better color quickly as soil temperatures warm.
If you have a fescue lawn, in the next couple of weeks cut your lawn a little shorter than you left it in the fall to remove the freeze damaged leaf blades.
Should I dethatch the lawn?
Dethatching is the process of removing excess thatch. Thatch is the layer of undecomposed grass clippings that builds up on the soil surface. When your lawn is healthy and you are mowing often enough, you should not have thatch build up. This is even true if you do not catch your clippings during the growing season. But, if you have a layer of more than 1” of thatch, dethatching is recommended. Use a verti-cutter, also known as a power rake, to remove the thatch before spring green up. Excessive thatch stops air, nutrients, and water from reaching the root zone and results in a shallow rooted turf.
Aeration, after spring green up, is also an effective way of removing thatch and has the added benefit of reducing soil compaction.
In most cases, spring lawn maintenance followed by aeration after spring green up will cure thatch problems. In nearly 40 years in the lawn and landscape industry, I have only seen a handful of lawns with excessive thatch problems to the point that dethatching was required.
It is common for fescue lawns to be more brown than green in late February. Cutting the lawn short enough to remove the brown tips and warm spring-like days will have your fescue back to green by early March.
Best Practice for Bermuda Lawns –
Anytime in the next 3 weeks cut the lawn on your mower’s next to lowest setting and remove the clippings. Plan to aerate your lawn in April – June to reduce compaction, improve soil structure, and move organic material into the root zone.
Best Practice for Fescue Lawns –
In the next 3 weeks, cut your lawn a little lower than you left it in the fall to remove the freeze damaged leaf blades, then be ready to resume weekly mowing in mid-March.
If you have any questions concerning the practice of spring lawn maintenance vs scalping, or the benefits of detaching vs aeration, send us an email or give us a call.
Our goal is to help you get your lawn off to its best start this spring.
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
Nandina – A Bulletproof Landscape Addition
Nandinas are an old-fashioned, evergreen shrub that gradually fell out of favor over the years - a result of being overplanted for decades.
But, with the introduction of new varieties and their nearly bullet-proof performance, it is time to revisit why nandinas deserve a place in the landscape.
Nandinas grow from zone 6 to zone 11 (Oklahoma City is in zone 6b to 7a) and are a mainstay in the southern landscape. They grow in both sun and shade, although because their color is more dynamic in the sun, I prefer full sun to partial shade.
Nandina tolerates a wide range of soil pH from 4.0 to 7.0 if it drains moderately well. Once established, nandina is very drought tolerant.
Best of all, they have no pest problems. Even deer don’t bother them.
Nandinas add texture and color to the landscape. Their lacy green leaves grow on cane like stems adding yet another texture. In the autumn, the leaves turn burgundy and scarlet lasting through the winter and into spring. Some varieties produce berries in the fall and winter. No plant produces a showier berry cluster than the nandina domestica.
The varieties of nandina are numerous, but here are a few favorites:
Nandina 'Flirt' 1-2' tall. Stunning, deep red, new growth accentuates the evergreen leaves of this nandina. It is an improved variety of the classic Nandina 'Harbour Dwarf'. The dwarf growth habit makes it perfect for small landscapes and borders.
Nandina 'Plum Passion' 4-5' tall. New growth in spring and summer is a deep purple-red, turning slightly redder in the winter. Versatile and durable, and highly effective as a specimen plant, in borders, or massed for intense color.
Nandina ' Tuscan Flame' 3-4' tall. A real eye-catcher in the landscape, this evergreen shrub with a compact, rounded habit provides brilliant year-round color, needs minimal care, and maintains its neat round habit without pruning. Bright coral to russet-red foliage has a lacy appearance.
Nandina domestica ‘Heavenly Bamboo’ 6-8’ tall. The largest of the Nandina family produces lacy green leaves on upright cane like stems that turn brilliant red in the fall and winter. Small flowers are followed by bright berries in the fall. Use in mass plantings to create a colorful landscape screen or as a single specimen.
Nandina make a great accent in winter container plantings.
Nandina 'Sienna Sunrise' 3-4' tall. Intensely red new foliage cools to green. Fiery red in fall and winter. Plant in mass for dramatic effect.
Nandina 'Harbor Dwarf' 1 1/2 to 2 1/2' tall. An attractive small evergreen shrub that forms a dense clump of upright, cane-like stems with soft, narrow, green leaves that emerge with a pink-copper tint in spring and turn a brilliant bronzy-red color in fall and winter. Effective when used as an accent or container specimen, in mixed shrub borders, or massed as a groundcover.
Nandina ‘Firepower’. 2-3’. New foliage has fresh green coloration, with red highlights. Brilliant red foliage develops in the fall and persists through winter. Neat, evergreen mounds work well for borders and in masses.
Nandina ‘Gulf Stream’ 3-4’ tall. New leaves emerge scarlet red in spring and mature to blue-green in summer. Intense red foliage develops as autumn temperatures arrive. Compact shape is ideal for use around structures and in front of hollies.
Looking for more information on the latest nandina introductions? Visit https://southernlivingplants.com/plant/nandina/
Landscape uses of nandina are nearly as numerous as the varieties. Nandinas add layers to the landscape when planted in the middle plant of larger beds. They are particularly showy when planted in front of dark green boxwoods and hollies, and behind ground covers and annual color. With their lacy structure, larger varieties provide a softening effect when planted in front of fences, structures and utilities. Dwarf varieties add interest planted along boarders and in groupings. They even make a great winter accent in containers.
Most winters nandina hold bright colors creating interest in the winter landscape.
Nandinas are a low maintenance plant. Pruning only needs to be done when a plant has become too large, irregular in shape or leggy. When pruning, use the 1/3 rule: prune back 1/3 of the tallest canes to the ground, prune another 1/3 back just above a leaf approximately halfway on the plant, and leave 1/3 untouched. Nandinas should never be sheared! Shearing nandina ruins the natural beauty of the plant. If nandinas are planted where they need to be sheared regularly, they are planted in the wrong location. It would be better to remove them than to shear them because a sheared nandina adds no value to the landscape.
One of the most prolific shows of fall-winter berries is found on Nandinas.
Over the next couple weeks, as your landscape is on the verge of bursting back to life, take a few minutes to reflect on the landscape’s winter interest. Should you consider adding a nandina variety to your landscape before next winter?
Nandinas, with bright red berries and red to purple foliage, are one of the best plants for adding interest to your winter landscape.
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
Nandina should never be sheared. Shearing destroys the natural shape and beauty of the plant.
When is the Right Time to Apply a Pre-Emergent?
The short answer…
Before weeds germinate.
Ok, maybe we need the long answer –
The window for applying the first pre-emergent application is broad.
If you have already had your first application, it was done at the right time.
If you have not had your first application, you are NOT too late.
Summer annual weeds begin to germinate when soil temperatures reach 55 degrees. Mid-March is the normal time for soil temperatures to reach 55 degrees in central Oklahoma. We have experienced some years where soil temperatures didn’t reach 55 degrees until the last few days of March and we have experienced springs where soil temperatures reached the summer germination point in early March.
How do pre-emergent herbicides work?
Pre-emergent herbicides create a blanket over a lawn preventing seeds from germinating on the soil surface. Pre-emergent weed controls are designed to stop weed seeds from germinating. So, as long as they are applied before weeds germinate, the timing is perfect.
To be on the safe side, the best practice is to have the first application of pre-emergent herbicides on your lawn by the first week of March.
Last week in covering February Lawn & Landscape Tips we started by pondering the question:
Do you think of February as the end of winter?
Or, do you think of February as the beginning of spring?
The reality is February can go either way.
Sometimes February feels like winter is never going to end. Other times February feels like spring has arrived with bulbs, shrubs and trees bursting to life.
Because crabgrass is an annual grassy weed, without a spring pre-emergent even the best lawns will have crabgrass this summer.
With mostly 60 and 70 degree days in the forecast for the next few days we are on the edge of spring fever. But, the first feeling of spring can quickly turn to lawn anxiety if you haven’t applied the first spring per-emergent yet.
It is OK! You haven’t missed the window for a pre-emergent. Soil temperatures are still well below 55 degrees.
The timing of the first application is not about air temperature; it is all about soil temperature.
The current 3-Day Average Soil Temperature in the Oklahoma City area is 45 degrees, 10 degrees below the temperature required for summer annual weeds to start germinating.
If you have already had your first application, it was done at the right time.
And, if you have not had your first application, you are not too late!
With the occasional winter-like cold snaps February is known for we can expect soil temperatures to range between the mid 40s and low 50s for the next few weeks.
So, when is the right time to apply a pre-emergent herbicide to prevent summer annual weeds?
Anytime in January, February or early March before weeds germinate.
There is one very important factor when it comes to the effectiveness of a pre-emergent no matter when you apply it…. Water!
A critical factor in the effectiveness of a pre-emergent application is water.
Watering in the application activates the herbicide creating a barrier. A best practice is to water within 2-3 days of when the application is made. But, quality herbicides still retain effectiveness as long as they are watered in within 10-14 days.
There are a lot of factors that go into creating your best lawn, but the most critical at this time of year is the application of the spring pre-emergent before weeds germinate.
One indicator that soil temperatures are warm enough for summer annual weeds to start germinating is bright yellow blooms of forsythia.
Even though we have had plenty of spring like days, forsythia has not started to burst with yellow yet.
Two More Important Weed Control Details:
1. Pre-emergent herbicides are not designed to control existing weeds in your lawn. If you have weeds in your lawn now, a post-emergent grassy weed killer and/or a broadleaf weed killer must be applied. Weeds currently present in lawns now are winter annuals best prevented with the fall and early winter pre-emergent applications. Control now is possible, but the sooner an application is made, the better the results will be.
Best Practice – A clean lawn in January and February is the result of effective fall pre-emergent applications.
The best way to have a weed free lawn in February is to never skip the fall pre-emergent applications.
2. The pre-emergent barrier gradually weakens over the season from foot traffic, mowing and periods of heavy rain. The edges of the lawn are the first to break down. Additionally, summer annual weeds continue to germinate throughout the season. It is recommended that a second pre-emergent application be made mid-March to early May for season long prevention.
Best Practice – A second pre-emergent application 6-8 weeks after the first application will provide season long prevention of summer annual weeds.
So, when is the right time to apply a pre-emergent herbicide?
If you have received the first application of the season, you did it at the right time.
If you have yet to receive the first application, you perfect…there is still time to prevent summer annual weeds!
If you have any questions about pre-emergent applications, please give us a call!
Lorne Hall
Hall-Stewart Lawn & Landscape
(405)367-3873
February – Winter or Spring?
What is your opinion of February?
Do you think of February as the end of winter?
Or, do you think of February as the beginning of spring?
The reality is… February can go either way.
Sometimes February feels like winter is never going to end — other times February feels like spring has arrived with bulbs, shrubs and trees bursting to life.
If we receive a snow this February, take time to find to notice the stark red branches of the Red Twig Dogwood against pure white snow.
Either way, February means we are getting closer to the browns of winter being replaced with the colors of spring!
And, no matter which way this February trends, it is time to shake off your winter break from lawn and landscape activities and get focused on setting up your lawn and landscape for your best year yet.
You may have had time to handle some of these tasks during January, if so, you are ahead. But, if not, it is time to get busy. We are down to the last few weeks to get your lawn and landscape ready for the coming season.
For your best lawn this season, a pre-emergent application must be put on your lawn before the first of March.
Weed Control
In early January, as weather allowed, we began applying the very important first step of our lawn care program to many of your lawns. For your best lawn this year, it is critical you have a pre-emergent herbicide on your turf to prevent spring and summer weeds before early March. Many summer weeds germinate when soil temperatures reach 55 degrees, which typically occurs sometime during the first two weeks of March in central Oklahoma. Soil temperatures are currently in the upper 30s but will reach the critical weed germination point within the next 30-40 days. Along with applying the first pre-emergent of the year, now is the perfect time to be more aggressive in controlling existing weeds in bermuda lawns. If you have a fescue lawn, now is also a good time for pre and post-emergent weed control, but if you are applying your own weed control it is critical you read the label first and ensure it is safe for fescue. Never assume that an herbicide is okay on any turf type.
Key Point: For the best lawn this year your lawn needs a pre-emergent application before soil temperatures reach 55 degrees in early March.
Want to learn more about preventing weeds? Read our article from January 11th, Why is an Early Lawn Care Application So Important?
Because crabgrass is fast growing and spreads quickly, it can have a dominant presence in your lawn by May without a spring pre-emergent.
Dormant Oil
Many insects, such as scale, aphids, mites and leaf hoppers, overwinter on trees and shrubs. Spray with a dormant oil when the temperature is above freezing before the end of the month (before bud break), and you will have less insect issues on your trees and shrubs during the season. Dormant oil can also reduce some fungal pathogens.
Always read and follow the label before spraying. Some plants, such as blue spruce and blue juniper, can experience temporary loss of color if sprayed by Dormant Oils.
Key Point: Dormant oils will reduce, and possibly eliminate, some insects.
For more information on dormant oil applications, read our post from January 18th, Dormant Oils – A Proactive Approach to Insect Control.
Over the past few seasons Crape Myrtles have been problems with white scale. The first step in gaining control of the insect is a dormant oil treatment.
The best time to control and prevent weeds is before warm season lawns come out of dormancy.
An application of a dormant oil this month will smother overwintering insects such as aphids.
Assuming February brings us a gradual warm up we are only 30 days away from daffodil blossoms.
Watering
Winter moisture is important for the health of your lawn and landscape. Last weeks snow fall, a dry snow, equaled a good, slow soaking ½” of moisture. Continue to monitor moisture through February and anytime we go 7-10 days without moisture, pick a nice day and give your lawn and landscape a deep soaking. The goal in the winter is to get ½” of moisture on your lawn and landscape every 2 weeks.
Key Point: Winter plant damage is more likely to occur when plant roots are dry during an extended cold period.
It is a good practice to wrap the trunks of young Maple trees to prevent trunk damage in February and March. Commonly known as southwest injury, it is caused by sap rising on warm days followed by freezing temperatures at night resulting in damage to the bark.
Fescue lawns will return to a rich dark green sometime between the last week of February and the last week of March when soil temperatures and moisture are just right.
Fescue
Fescue lawns go into winter with a rich green color and gradually fade in color through the winter. The amount of color loss is directly related to how dry and cold of a winter we have. One of the best benefits of last week’s 8” snow fall is the blanket of protection from the single digit temperatures and cold winds while trapping the warmth of the soil. Don’t be surprised if fescue lawns look a little more vibrant once all the snow is melted.
What can you expect from your fescue in February? Every year there is a turning point when temperatures rise, there is abundant moisture and almost overnight, fescue lawns regain their rich green color. A full recovery can happen as early as mid-February or as late as mid-March.
Key Point: Hold your judgment on the condition of your fescue lawn for another 4-6 weeks.
What can you do for your fescue lawn?
Sometime between late February and early March, remove the freeze-dried leaf blades by cutting the lawn shorter. You don’t have to scalp it. Just cut it enough to remove the brown leaf ends.
Key Point: Cut your fescue a little shorter in a few weeks to remove the brown leaf tips.
We could be only three weeks away from seeing spring color!
Soil Test
If your lawn did not respond as expected to fertilizer last year, you may have a soil problem. It is a good idea to have your soil tested every two to three years to ensure the soil will continue to yield a healthy landscape. A soil analysis will provide you with the pH and levels of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. A pH range of 6.0 to 7.5 is acceptable for most plants.
If you would like to schedule a soil test respond to this email or call (405)367-3873. We will gather a sample and deliver it to the lab. Once we have the soil test results, we will send you a report and prescribe a soil amendment plan if needed.
Key Point: For the best lawn and landscape, have your soil tested every two to three years.
One of the first announcements of spring comes from the bright golden yellow of the forsythia. When will it declare spring this year? Before the end of February? Or March?
Later this month Crabapple blossoms will burst to life.
Tree Pruning
Continue to work on tree pruning with the goal of completing maintenance and restorative pruning before trees leaf in March.
Want to know the details on tree pruning? Visit our article from December 7th, Winter Tree Pruning.
If you planted daffodil bulbs in November or December, this is less than 30 days away!
Lawn Maintenance
Continue to keep leaves and debris removed from the landscape. Later this month or early in March, cut the lawn for the first time. It is not necessary to scalp the lawn all the way to the soil. We recommend cutting the lawn at or just below the height you desire to maintain it at during the spring and early summer.
Have you noticed the Winterberry? Winterberry is a deciduous holly that adds interest to the winter landscape with a vibrant show of red berries.
Lawn Equipment
If you mow your own lawn, February is a perfect time to get your mower ready for the new season. I am a firm believer in having your lawn mower professionally serviced every winter. Not only will you have less mower headaches during the season, you also can expect a longer mower life. Most shops offer a winter tune-up special where they put in a new spark plug, change the oil and filter, replace the air filter if needed, put in fresh fuel with stabilizer, and sharpen the blade.
We are only 4-5 weeks away from Oklahoma’s State Tree, the Redbud, brightening our days.
Over the next few weeks there will be days that we think winter will never end and there will be strings of days that have us all thinking spring has arrived.
Don’t let a spring-like February day pass without spending some time outside.
By the end of the month, we will all be singing….
I see trees of green
Red roses too
I see them bloom
For me and you
And I think to myself
What a wonderful world
I see skies of blue
And clouds of white
The bright blessed day
The dark sacred night
And I think to myself
What a wonderful world
Yes, I think to myself
What a wonderful world!
If you need help with any of these tasks or have questions, please give us a call.
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
Snow & Your Landscape
Are you a snow lover?
Or, are you one that hopes we make it through the winter snow free?
If your lawn and landscape have a vote, they are voting for snow!
Fresh snow is like a warm blanket on a cold night to your landscape!
Snowfall is nature’s way of insulating your valuable lawn and landscape from cold temperatures. A fresh snow cover of more than 2” is very beneficial to the landscape by trapping soil warmth below the snow.
Without snow, soil temperatures fluctuate more, dipping deeper during cold spells. It is common to see soil temperatures at 2” below the soil surface 4 to 8 degrees warmer with a snow cover when temperatures are in the single digits without a snow cover.
With subzero temperatures in the forecast over the next few days, your lawn and landscape is very thankful to have a blanket of snow trapping the warm soil temperatures around its roots and keeping the cold windy temperatures at bay.
Snowfall is moisture!
If we get a ½” rainfall, there is a lot of runoff.
But, when snow melts, it slowly soaks in. Nearly every single drop benefits the roots of your turf, flowers, shrubs and trees.
On the average, a 10” snow equals a 1” rainfall. With a wet snow, your landscape may receive an inch of moisture for every 5” of snow. With a dry snowfall, it takes 15” of snow to equal a 1” rainfall.
Believe me, as dry as the climate has been this winter, your lawn and landscape will take every drop it can squeeze out of the white powder!
The Old Farmer’s Almanac calls snow a “poor man’s fertilizer.”
Snow is full of nitrogen. As snow falls it collects nitrogen that is naturally in the air and distributes it evenly over your lawn and landscape.
Even though spring green up is still a few weeks away, don’t be surprised if our lawn and landscapes look a little more alive as the snow melts away.
So, which are you?
Snow lover?
Snow hater?
I know where your lawn and landscape stand on the snow issue!
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
Dormant Oils – a Proactive Approach to Insect Control
It’s January, so lawn care professionals and lawn enthusiasts appear to be singularly focused on one thing:
Appling pre-emergent herbicides to prevent annual weeds from germinating this spring!
But wait, Isn’t there something else we should be focused on?
Isn’t there also a way to prevent insects from overtaking your trees and shrubs this spring and summer?
Yes! You should also be applying Dormant Oils to trees and shrubs now.
A Dormant Oil Application now is to insect control what a Pre-emergent Herbicide Application is to weed control.
What is Dormant Oil?
Dormant Oils are an ecofriendly, effective way to control overwintering eggs and insects.
Commonly referred to as Dormant Oils, but technically they are Horticultural Oils. The common name Dormant Oils came about because they are sprayed on trees and shrubs while they are in dormancy before buds open in the spring.
Dormant oils are not poisonous or harmful to humans or pets.
Oak Scale, also known as Soft Scale is a common pest on oaks and cause stunting and twig dieback. A dormant oil application is the first step in controlling the pest.
Aphids are small sap-sucking insects that excretes a large amount of sticky honeydew May through September. A dormant oil application will help smother aphids eggs that overwinter on branches.
How Does A Dormant Oil Work?
Dormant oils work by suffocating, smoother overwintering insects. Oil blocks the air holes causing the insect to suffocate. In some cases, the oil acts as a poison and at times the oil can interfere with how an insect feeds.
White scale on crape myrtles.
What Insects Do Dormant Oils Control?
Dormant oils typically target two types of insects, sucking and chewing pests.
Dormant oils control scale insects, aphids, some borers, and mites that are overwintering on trees and shrubs. They also can be effective as a fungicide to combat powdery mildew, leaf spot, and rust.
Two pest dormant oils target have become a common problem in our landscapes: scale and aphids.
Scale – White bark scale on crape myrtles is a problem in central Oklahoma. The insect is invasive and results in a black mold along the branches and trunk. Although the scale is rarely fatal to the plant, they are responsible for stunted growth, reduced flowering and decreased aesthetics.
Aphids – A few aphids are not a problem and do not require treatment. But if populations increase, they can cause damage. Application of dormant oil in the late winter or spring is the best preventive step to control aphids and is recommended.
Crape myrtles often struggle with scale and aphids and benefit from an annual dormant oil application.
The first sign of a spider mite problem is a plant that is showing signs of decline and the foliage takes on a yellow cast. Dormant oils can be used to kill mite eggs.
Spider mites are very small pest visible as small pepper sized specs that move on a white sheet of paper. Dormant oils can be used to kill mite eggs.
When Should Dormant Oils Be Applied?
Applications should be made from winter to early spring while trees and shrubs are dormant.
The goal is to make the application while the plants are hardened off over the winter and before new buds or shoots start growing in the spring.
Treatments should be made when temperatures are above 32 degrees and winds are light.
Even coverage of all branches is very important to ensure the oils coat insects.
Do not spray on wet plants.
Always read and follow the label before spraying. Some plants, such as blue spruce and blue juniper, can experience temporary loss of color if sprayed by Dormant Oils.
“Right now, is the perfect time to take care of overwintering pests hiding in your trees and shrubs. Hall | Stewart’s Tree & Shrub Care Program Application #1 includes dormant oils. It is the easiest and most effective way to keep scale, mites, aphids, and other overwintering insects under control before they cause problems this spring and summer.”
Dormant oil applications are an effective way to control scale on trunks and branches.
White scale on crape myrtle is a problem in central Oklahoma. If you have crape myrtles in your landscape, a dormant oil application is recommended.
Who Should Schedule A Dormant Oil Application Now?
Anyone who has struggled with aphids, mites or scale in the past year.
Anyone desiring an eco-friendlier approach to insect control.
Anyone who wants to reduce insect populations now instead of waiting until the growing season when harsher control methods are required.
Protect your landscape investment with a Dormant Oil Application this winter!
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
Why is an Early Lawn Care Application so important?
Why? Because when it comes to having a clean, weed free lawn this year, what you do, or don’t do, for your lawn between now and the end of February will determine the condition of your lawn this year.
There are many reasons for a weedy lawn:
Weeds are common in unhealthy soil,
Thin turf is an invitation for weeds to fill in the voids,
Weeds thrive in compacted soils,
Drought stressed lawns are a favorite target for weeds,
and the list goes on and on and on….
But, the most common reason for weeds is failure to apply a pre-emergent herbicide at the right time.
The early Spring Pre-Emergent application is the first step, and a critical step, in growing a weed free, healthy lawn this year.
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape has started applying the first application containing the early Spring Pre-Emergent to lawns, making sure all our clients receive the critical first step in weed prevention at the right time.
Year round we field a lot of questions about the best way to have a weed free, healthy lawn.
When do we get most questions about weeds? You are right, after a lawn is covered with weeds – when it is hard to gain control without causing damage to the turf.
The right time to have a conversation about weeds is before they germinate. Prevention of weeds is much easier and healthier than controlling them later.
Let’s cover a few key questions about weed prevention:
Why is the early spring pre-emergent so critical?
Summer annual weeds come up every year. An annual weed grows, reseeds, and dies all in one year. There are both grassy and broadleaf annual weeds. A quality pre-emergent herbicide will prevent many types of weeds.
The most aggressive annual grassy weed is crabgrass.
If you had a single crabgrass plant in your lawn last year, or your neighbor’s lawn had crabgrass, or your neighbor’s neighbors had crabgrass, there is a 100% chance you will have crabgrass this summer if you DO NOT apply a pre-emergent to your lawn this spring.
If you have a fescue lawn it is very important to make sure the products you put on your lawn are safe. The first lawn application of the year is one that you have to be careful not to put the wrong herbicide on fescue or you will cause damage.
Dallisgrass is often confused with crabgrass during the summer. Dallisgrass goes dormant in the winter but the rhizomes stay alive. The first application of the year as a good time to gain control and reduce the spread of this difficult weed.
A weed free lawn this summer starts with a pre-emergent application before the end of February.
Why am I so sure you will have crabgrass if you skip the early spring pre-emergent application?
A single crabgrass plant produces thousands of seeds. Because crabgrass is so prolific, even the nicest lawn in your neighborhood last summer can be full of crabgrass this summer if a pre-emergent is not applied this year.
Because crabgrass is an annual grassy weed, without a spring pre-emergent even the best lawns will have crabgrass this summer.
Because crabgrass is fast growing and spreads quickly, it can have a dominant presence in your lawn by May without a spring pre-emergent.
Mid summer lawn that did not have any pre-emergent in the spring.
What is the best timing for the first lawn care application?
With thousands of seeds lying dormant in the soil, as soon as conditions are right, germination will begin. Germination of crabgrass occurs typically in early to mid-March in central Oklahoma.
The key determination is soil temperature. When soil temperatures consistently reach 55 degrees, germination occurs. Currently, soil temperatures in the Oklahoma City area are in the low-40s.
Between now and early March, soil temperatures will go up and down, gradually creeping up until they reach that right temperature for summer weed germination.
Lawns that receive the early spring pre-emergent application sometime between now and the end of February have the best chance to be weed free this year.
Will one pre-emergent application per year be enough?
Crabgrass is one of the first annual weeds to germinate each spring, but it does not germinate all at once. Germination of seeds will continue throughout the summer.
Other summer annual grassy weeds such as goosegrass, foxtail, and sandbur will germinate soon after crabgrass. Knotweed and spurge are summer annual broadleaf weeds that will germinate even later.
Summer annuals germinate from mid-March through the summer.
Pre-emergent herbicides will not provide coverage for the entire summer growing season. A pre-emergent works by creating a blanket over the soil to prevent seeds from germinating. Rain, irrigation, foot traffic, all combine to gradually break down the herbicide.
Full summer control is only attainable if you repeat the application again between early March and the end of May, 6-12 weeks after the first application.
A lawn care application between now and the end of a February will prevent crabgrass from coming up in March.
Does a pre-emergent need to be applied as a liquid or can it be spread as a granular?
Pre-emergent herbicides come in both forms, and either is effective as long as the product is applied evenly, creating continuous weed barrier. Watering the product into the root zone is important. Always follow instructions left on your door anytime an application is made to your lawn.
For the do it yourselfer, it is important to study and follow the label. Know your grass type and make sure the product you are applying is approved for your lawn.
Don’t over apply. Pre-emergent herbicides work by drying out weed seeds. Too much pre-emergent will stunt root growth and slow spring green-up.
And, for the DIYer, only buy what you need per application to limit the amount of product you have left lying around the garage.
Pre-emergent applications are typically a liquid spray and have a slight color making it easy for the professional lawn care specialist to create an even weed barrier across a lawn.
Why are pre-emergent sprays blue-green?
Actually, they are not. Some lawn care companies add dye to their herbicide to use as a marking pattern. We are not a proponent of using dye. Most pre-emergent herbicides have light coloring that aid the lawn care professional in applying the product evenly to the surface.
We find dyes messy — they give the natural landscape an artificial look and add an unnecessary chemical to your landscape.
For your best lawn this summer an early season pre-emergent must be applied before the end of February.
Most importantly, for the best lawn in 2026, you must apply a pre-emergent to your lawn before the end of February.
If you subscribe to a Hall | Stewart Lawn Care Program, you can count on receiving your application before any chance of summer weed germination begins.
If you are not currently subscribed to a Hall | Stewart Lawn Care Program, give us a call (405)367-3873 or click the link & we will provide you with a Free Professional Lawn Evaluation.
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
January Lawn + Landscape Tips
Happy New Year to Your Lawn & Landscape!
For those who are always in pursuit of their best lawn and landscape, January is the month to review the year just completed and plan for the season to come.
Besides reviewing and planning for the season, there a few critical things to do in January that will make a big difference in the success of your lawn and landscape in 2026:
Top of the list for January: Make sure your lawn and landscape has sufficient moisture!
Moisture
The biggest challenge for your winter landscape is lack of moisture. The Oklahoma City metro area is currently on week 6 without a good rainfall. December was our second driest December on record. One of the most critical aspects of plant winter survival is good soil moisture. Through the winter keep an eye on rainfall and soil moisture. Anytime we go 7-10 days without any moisture, rain, or snow, be prepared to water. Evergreen plants, both needle and broadleaf, are most susceptible to winter damage when we have a dry winter. Don’t forget to inspect containers, raised plantings, and plantings under the eaves of your house are the first to become too dry.
Irrigation Best Practice – If your system has a rain/freeze sensor and if your system does not need to be winterized (Backflow has heat protection), set your system to run through a cycle one time per week in the afternoon.
If it is above freezing and it hasn’t rained, the system will run through a cycle.
Mulch
A great landscape practice for improving survivability of your landscape plantings is a fresh layer of mulch. A 2-3” layer of mulch will provide insulation for your plant roots, retain moisture, and moderate soil temperatures.
Lawn Pre-Emergent
Your best chance to have a weed free lawn in 2026 is to apply a pre-emergent in January or February. The purpose of a pre-emergent is to prevent weed seeds from germinating. The next weeds to germinate in your lawn will be the ones that haunt you all summer. Spring and summer weeds will start growing as soon as soil temperatures start to warm in early March.
A great time to control grassy weeds in dormant Bermuda is January and February .
Nonselective herbicides can be used while the turf is completely dormant to control any weeds that are actively growing.
Your best chance for a weed free lawn this season is to apply a pre-emergent in January or February.
If you are a subscriber to a Hall | Stewart’s Lawn Care Program, we will be visiting your lawn very soon to apply the critical first application of the year to prevent spring and summer weeds.
Lawn Post-Emergent
If you have a warm season lawn (Bermuda and Zoysia), now that we have received freezing temperatures it is one of the best times to gain control of troublesome grassy and broadleaf weeds. Nonselective weed control (herbicides that control anything that is actively growing) can be used while the turf is completely dormant. Now is also a good time to control broadleaf weeds growing in fescue, but do not use a nonselective herbicide on fescue. Always read the labels, know your turf type, and only apply herbicides labeled for your turf type.
Tree Trim
During winter dormancy, tree trimming is a great practice. Remove low hanging branches, crossing branches, and branches growing into the interior of the tree. Also, remove branches that may compete with the central leader.
For more information on tree trimming, visit our post from December 7th, Winter Tree Pruning – Improve Your Landscape Investment.
Dormant Oil
During January and February, one of the best things you can do to prepare your landscape plants for the season is to treat them with a dormant oil. Dormant oils smother overwintering insects (aphids, scale, mites, etc.) that often are some of the most difficult to control.
Crape myrtle bark scale activity has increased over the past few seasons. Scale is a white insect with a hard shell that appears on the bark. Dormant oils applied in January-February is the first step for controlling the pest. If your landscape includes crape myrtles, you need a dormant oil application every year.
When leaves accumulate in the corners of your lawn during the winter they become a collecting place for insects and disease.
Soil Test
If your lawn, shrubs, or trees struggled in 2025, now would be a great time to check the soil pH and nutrients.
Key soil measurements that determine soil health include pH, total exchange capacity, organic matter and nutrients.
Unhealthy Soil = Sick Lawn & Landscape
Soil Test Results + Recommendations = Healthy Lawn & Landscape
When key soil measurements are out of balance, your lawn and landscape will not respond correctly to fertilizer and weed control applications.
Give Hall | Stewart a call and we will gather a sample and take it to the lab. With soil test results, we will formulate a custom plan to return your lawn to a healthy condition.
Leaf Clean-up
Keep your lawn and landscape clear of leaves through the winter. If you allow leaves to collect on your fescue lawn, in the corners and around objects, you will find the fescue thinner in the spring. Also, leaves are a collecting place for insects and disease over the winter.
Mower Maintenance
During the mowing off season take your lawn equipment in for annual winter service. Most lawn equipment stores offer specials during January on oil changes, lubrication, blade sharpening, and repairs. Annual preventive maintenance often keeps you from experiencing the frustration and hassle of repair issues during the growing season and extends your mower life.
Set Lawn and Landscape Goals for 2026
Here are a few practices that may be just what you need to take your lawn and landscape from good to great in 2026:
Aeration – Our best lawns, the ones with the healthiest root system, thickest turf, best weed resistance and most drought tolerant are the ones that receive annual aeration.
Soil Test – If your lawn is slow to respond to fertilizer and weed treatments, it could be that you have a soil imbalance. A simple test will tell us what we need to know to create your best lawn.
Fall Overseed – Annual fescue seeding any area of your lawn that does not receive at least 5 hours a full sunlight daily to eliminate thinning and bare areas is an important step in having a great lawn.
Watering Habits – Make it a goal to learn the best way to water your lawn. A healthy lawn and landscape is watered infrequently and deeply. Frequency and length of watering is different for every lawn. Set aside time early in the season to discover the best way to water your lawn.
Landscape Refresh – From seasonal color plantings to your front landscape to your outdoor living spaces, what needs to be refreshed this year?
Plant Health Care – Your landscape represents an important investment in your property. Annual inspection and treatment of your trees and shrubs is a good practice.
Lawn and Landscape Journal – Make it a habit of taking lawn and landscape pictures and making notes through the seasons. Every season, every year is different. Having good notes helps you adjust to changing conditions from season to season.
If you have any questions, or if you need help making 2026 your best lawn and landscape year, please give us a call (405)367-3873, or simply respond to this email.
One Important Winter Note – Avoid walking on fescue lawns when temperatures are below freezing or there is frost as it will cause damage that will last into the spring.
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
Happy New Year!
Here’s to the week between Christmas and New Years!
The pace is still a little slower…
Extra time with family and friends continues…
And, good or bad depending on your view, there are often holiday sweets still within arm’s reach.
The week between Christmas and New Years is a favorite of mine. It is the week when my thoughts turn toward reflection of the past 12 months and my mind starts anticipating the possibilities of a new year.
Reviewing and setting goals has been a part of my New Year’s tradition as long as I can remember.
How about you?
Do you make it a practice to review your year and set goals for the new year?
What is your favorite method?
A few of my favorite goal setting concepts over the years have been SMART Goals (Specific, Measurable, Achievable, Relevant and Time-bound) and One Word (Choosing a single word to guide your goals).
December through January, while the schedules at Hall | Stewart are not quite as hectic, we have made it a practice to gather the entire team for a book study.
Over the last few years our Winter Learning Series has delved into the better business strategies found in Jack Stack’s The Great Game of Business.
We have learned the key is to care, through an in-depth walk-through of Ken Blanchard’s Legendary Service.
And, we learned up-serving, increasing what we can do for others, is the key to sales in our study of Daniel Pink’s To Sell is Human.
This winter, to help each of us grow personally, we are digging into James Clear’s Atomic Habits.
Atomic: 1. An extremely small amount of a thing; the single irreducible unit of a larger system. 2. The source of immense energy or power.
Habit: 1. A routine or practice performed regularly, an automatic response to a specific situation.
In Atomic Habits, James Clear challenges prevailing wisdom claims that all you need to do is set specific, actionable goals. Yes, he agrees we need goals, but what you really need is a system, processes that lead to those goals.
Goals are about the results you want to achieve.
Systems are about the processes that lead to those results.
The purpose of setting a goal is to win the game.
The purpose of building systems is to continue to play the game.
Goals are good for setting a direction, systems are best for making progress.
Focus on the system, not the goal.
Bill Walsh: “The score takes care of itself.”
Habits are the atoms of our lives. Each one contributes to your overall improvement. At first, they are insignificant but then they start fueling each other. They are small and mighty.
If you can get 1% better each day for a year, you will be 37x better in one year. Habits are the compound interest of self-improvement. They seem to make little difference yet over the months and years they can be enormous.
Outcomes are a lagging measure of your habits.
Success is a gradual evolution, a long series of small wins and tiny breakthroughs. The only way to make progress is to start small.
Atomic habits are a routine, small, easy to do system that is the source of incredible power.
Want to learn more about Clear’s systems for creating habits to improve your life? https://jamesclear.com/atomic-habits
May your 2026 be filled with small 1% improvements that compound into enormous improvement in the months and years to come.
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
Merry Christmas!
The closer and closer we get to Christmas, the more and more you hear family, friends, co-workers, and even complete strangers wishing each other “Merry Christmas!”
It has me wondering, why not “Happy Christmas!”
Have you ever wondered why?
I googled, I check AI, searching for why “Merry” and not “Happy.”
What is merry? My search found: delightful, cheerful, joyous, festive, jolly, happy, showing enjoyment, gaiety, demonstrating joy, a celebration.
What is happy? Pleased, content, fortunate, lucky, a feeling of well-being or satisfied.
Happy is about feeling good due to circumstances.
Merry is about expressing joy.
Can you be happy without being merry?
But, can you be merry without being happy?
Susan Ebbers discussed the difference between happy and merry in a post on vocabulary.com. One of her comments: “Merry brings thoughts of lightheartedness and high spirits. There is nothing negative about merry. There is no un-merry. But, there is unhappy.”
So, when you really stop and think about it, happy just comes up short when it comes to Christmas. Happy Christmas just doesn’t cut it.
Christmas…Christmas…Christmas can only be MERRY!
Merry Christmas from your friends at Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape!
Alfredo, Brady, Cameron, Glenn, Jaron, Jeff, Keith, Lorna, Marcos G, Marcos V, Marlon, Morgan, Osmen, Paula, Rigoberto, Samuel, Tom and Lorne.
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
Trees -- the pillars of our landscapes!
“Trees are the truly the pillars of our landscapes…
Think of trees as an investment for future generations…”
These are the words of Steve Dobbs as he introduces you to trees in his book Oklahoma Gardener’s Guide.
I am thankful previous generations took “investment in future generations to heart” and planted trees in Oklahoma City neighborhoods.
Trees are worth it.
Trees make a difference in the appearance of our communities.
There is not a better way to improve the appearance of an area than to plant a tree.
Trees make a difference in the way we feel.
Trees increase the value of a property.
Trees, trees... trees just make the world a better place!
You can count on Autumn Blaze Maples to be one of the first trees to add dynamic fall color to the landscape.
Every tree has its strength and weaknesses. Sweetgum gives us unique fall colors with a mix of yellow, purples and reds. But, it is also know for its large and obnoxious seed balls that litter the lawn.
Chinese Pistache is a medium sized tree with an oval top that is the perfect size for a city sized lot.
Too often we think of trees for their spring flowers or fall color, but when planning for your next tree don’t over look summer flowering trees such as the Golden Raintree.
So, if trees are worth it, what characteristics makes for the best tree?
There is not a perfect tree for every location. But, there is a perfect tree for each location.
Here are a few things to consider when selecting a tree:
First – the intended purpose is important.
Are you looking for shade, fall color, spring or summer flowers, screening, attract wildlife, windbreak, etc.?
Second – the size of the area.
Large trees that grow over 35’ or taller are better suited for larger lawns and taller structures. Large trees planted on traditional sized residential lots often result in the need for heavier pruning.
Gingko is a slow growing moderate sized tree known for their distinctive leaf shape and pure yellow fall color.
Gingko leaves are fan shaped.
Trees remove carbon dioxide from the atmosphere and release oxygen providing for a cleaner, healthier climate. Per year a mature tree can consume 22 lbs of carbon dioxide and release enough oxygen for one person to breathe for 2 years.
Third – the shape of the tree.
Larger trees typically have a strong central leader and spreading branches that create a lot of shade. Trees with oval tops are often small to medium sized. There are also columnar shaped trees perfect for smaller areas.
Finally – consider the advantages and disadvantages of a particular tree.
Are they susceptible to disease or insects? Do they prefer wet or dry soils? It is important you select a tree that is suitable to your type of soil – sand, loam, or clay. Do they have seeds, fruit, or nuts that are obnoxious? Do they have soft or brittle wood that is easily damaged by wind or ice? Fast growing trees typically have weak wood, and some trees have narrow branching angles that are susceptible to storm damage.
Japanese Maples with their bright spring colors are a great tree for small areas.
Where do you go to find the best trees for your landscape?
Let me give you three sources of information:
Oklahoma State University Fact Sheet HLA-6456 Selecting Deciduous Trees for Oklahoma
The article breaks trees down into varieties that tolerate or prefer dry locations, tolerate or prefer wet locations, tolerate or prefer shade, tolerate or prefer alkaline soils, winter interest, showy bark of unusual form, interesting or showy fruit, showy flowers, fall color, planting under power lines, attract wildlife, native species, and undesirable trees. There is also a table of trees listing region of the state, growth rate, height, and comments.
Vitex is a small tree with blueish to purple flowers in the summer.
Some varieties of Japanese Maples have yellow fall color.
Consider the Silhouette Sweetgum for areas where you want great fall color in a tight space.
Crape Myrtles in our area are too often grown as large shrubs, but they actually are great small trees when they are not pruned to 5-6’ every year. Grown as a tree they are the longest blooming tree, have great fall color and their unique bark adds winter interest.
A program by the Department of Horticulture and Landscape Architecture at Oklahoma State University. The program evaluates and recommends plants well-adapted for use across Oklahoma. Since 1999, the program has recommended trees, shrubs, perennials, and annuals.
Oklahoma Gardener’s Guide by Steve Dobbs
An oldie but goodie. A must have book for anyone interested in Oklahoma landscapes. Steve’s book has been a great resource for me for years.
Something I learned from the Oklahoma Gardener’s Guide: Oklahoma is the only state in the nation that has four ecoregions. The ecoregions of the desert southwest, great plains, continental east, and humid south meet in Oklahoma City! (Facts like this make me a real-life Progressive Insurance commercial.)
Bald Cypress is a deciduous needle tree grows well in wet, clay soils. It is a large tree that really needs more space than most lawns provide.
When is the best time to plant trees?
The best time to plant a tree can vary with the type of plant and the growing method. The two most common growing methods are balled and burlap (B&B) and container grown. A B&B tree is grown in the ground, dug and the root ball is wrapped in burlap. A container tree is grown from a sapling in a container often using a light weight growing mixture of mulch and soil amendments. Both are acceptable, but B&B is the most common method.
As a general rule of thumb, the best time to plant a B&B tree is during winter dormancy. B&B trees are harvested after the first hard freeze and before leaves bud out in the spring, while they are dormant. When they are dug and replanted while dormant the tree will go through less transplant shock.
The best time to plant a container grown tree is during the fall while daytime temperatures are cool, but soil temperatures are still warm.
These are the best times to plant trees, but most trees can be planted year-round in Oklahoma. Just keep in mind that trees planted during the summer growing season will need extra care until they are well established.
The best answer to the question: “When is the best time to plant a tree?” is answered by a Chinese Proverb:
The best time to plant a tree was 20 years ago. The second-best time is now.
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
Saucer Magnolia is a deciduous, small tree that brightens the early spring flowers landscape with large flowers.
Very thankful for the vision of previous generations who planted an allee of London Planetrees in early Oklahoma City neighborhoods.
The Oklahoma State tree, Redbud, is a small tree perfect for many residential lawns.
USDA Forest Service reports healthy, mature trees in a well-landscaped yard add an average of 10% to a property’s value.
Winter Tree Pruning – Improve Your Landscape Investment
Tree pruning is possibly the most important winter landscape activity.
Proper tree pruning during the early years of a tree is an essential practice for any landscape.
Mature neighborhoods are full of examples of trees that were properly trimmed resulting in assets to the landscape. In the same neighborhoods, there are trees that were left untouched leaving to chance if they would add value to the landscape someday. And, there are other trees that were improperly pruned destroying their appeal.
Trees are too large of an investment to leave their growth to chance.
Another reason for tree trimming is to correct storm damage. If you live in Oklahoma, it is likely you have had or will have to deal with tree damage due to wind or ice.
Let’s first cover maintenance pruning of younger trees, then tree trimming techniques, and finally we will tackle restorative pruning concepts to continue to return your trees to their former beauty after they experience storm damage.
Things to consider when pruning young trees:
Spend a few minutes studying the shape of the tree before making any cuts. Have a plan of what needs to be accomplished before making your first cut.
Avoid pruning the central leader. If there is competition for the central leader, select the best leader and reduce the size of the competing leaders. When dual central leaders are allowed to grow, there will be two negative outcomes: the tree will not grow as tall and have more of a rounded top, and the tree will develop a weak top more suspectable to storm damage.
Young trees if not properly trimmed will add little value to the landscape as they mature.
Prune branches around the perimeter that extend beyond the desired shape. If it is a species with a central leader, prune the tree to a gentle pyramid shape. If it is an oval topped tree, prune any branches that are out of proportion. If the tree is in a location where southern winds are impacting the shape, reduce the north side of the tree.
Gradually remove lower branches over the years. As a tree begins to reach maturity, it is best to be able to walk under the branches with your arm fully extended without touching branches.
Remove branches that are too close together on the trunk. My rule of thumb is for there to be a minimum of one to two hand widths between all branches.
Remove vigorous vertical branches. Known as waterspouts, these branches grow quickly and are weak wooded. If not removed, they are the first to go during wind and ice storms.
Remove downward growing branches.
Remove any branches that are larger than the trunk. If not, weak branching will be the outcome.
Remove crossing or rubbing branches.
Remove branches that are growing into the center of the tree.
Never remove more than 1/3 of the branching system in a single year. If major pruning is needed to correct a tree, do it over a few years.
A folding hand saw is a great tool for tree pruning.
A good tree cut is located at the branch collar, smooth and straight.
Tree trimming techniques:
When pruning a branch back to the trunk, prune close to the branch collar.
When removing branches over 2” in width use a three-cut method. Make the first cut 18” above the collar on the underneath side of the limb. Make the second cut on the top side of the first cut. Then remove the remaining stub at the branch collar.
When branch pruning (vs not removing the branch completely at the trunk) make your cut ¼” above a bud. Select a bud facing the direction you want the branch to grow and make the cut on a diagonal.
Should you use tree wound dressing? There is good research for both using dressing on cuts and for not using a wound dressing. Our preference is to not use tree wound dressing when performing maintenance and corrective pruning during dormancy but use dressing when pruning when there is heavy sap movement.
Most routine tree pruning and minor restorative pruning can be accomplished with these 4 tools.
Lower branches on this Chinese Pistache will be pruned this winter. Goal is to be able to walk around under mature trees and not be able to touch any branches with an outstretched hand.
Good tree pruning removes lower branches in proportion to the size of the tree to avoid lollipop shaped trees.
Before
After
Lower branches were removed. Shape was improved by removing overgrown perimeter branching.
Restorative Tree Pruning After Storm Damage:
Walk around the tree from a distance looking for broken branches and damage to the canopy. If the canopy of the tree is out of balance, make a plan to thin the tree on the heavy side.
Before making any cuts, determine the direction you want the branch to grow. If you need to fill in the middle of the tree, select growth toward the center of the tree. If you need to develop outward growth, select a branch growing outward.
Our Chinese Pistache one year after heavy ice storm damage destroyed the oval canopy. Restoration is a multi-year process when a tree is heavily damaged.
At the point of most restorative cuts, it is best if only one or two branches remain. If selecting more than one, they need to be at least one hand width apart.
When trees lose a large portion of their canopy in a storm, the disproportionate amount of root system to canopy will most likely result in an abundance of new branch growth the following year. Plan on thinning and removing excessive branching, crossing branches, and branches growing into the interior of the canopy the following year.
When selecting two branches to remain it is best if they are at least one hand width apart.
With less canopy to support our Chinese Pistache has produced a lot of new branches this year that need to be thinned out.
After three years of corrective pruning, our Chinese Pistache has returned to its stately form.
Our Chinese Pistache with a wonderful oval canopy before the ice storm in October of 2020.
If the central leader was damaged in the past and cuts were made to establish a new central leader, notice how the new central leader is developing. Remember, it is important to not allow a cluster of new branches to compete for the central leader. The outcome will not be good in future years in both the health and the appearance of the tree.
After year one of restorative pruning our Chinese Pistache has started to regain its oval canopy.
If clusters of new branches are allowed to remain these areas will be weak and susceptible to future ice and wind damage.
Follow tree trimming techniques listed above.
Restoring a heavily storm damaged tree is a commitment to a 2-to-3-year process of evaluating and shaping. If your trees were damaged in the ice storm three years ago, don’t miss the opportunity to continue restorative pruning this winter.
Experience and knowledge are important for successful tree pruning.
If you need more information OSU’s Extension Service Fact Sheet HLA-6409, http://factsheets.okstate.edu/documents/hla-6409-pruning-ornamental-trees-shrubs-and-vines-2/
Or, give us a call. We can help by providing an evaluation of your tree’s health and make a plan for improvement.
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart
(405)367-3873
December Lawn & Landscape Tips
As our focus turns from Thanksgiving to Christmas, it is easy to let the busyness of the holiday season distract you from your lawn and landscape activities.
Hey, it’s December, can’t I put my lawn and landscape tools away for the winter?
Not so fast! The best lawns and landscapes are always receiving some attention…attention so they not only look their best right all the time, but also their best this coming spring.
Lawn Mowing
Yes, warm season lawn (bermuda and zoysia) mowing has come to an end for the season. But if you have a cool season lawn (fescue and rye), your lawn still needs maintenance. Depending on weather conditions (primarily nighttime temperatures), you can expect cool season lawns to put on some growth well into December. So, don’t put your mower away just yet. Maintain fescue lawns at approximately 3” through the fall and winter.
Mulch mowing is a great way to manage leaves as long as you do it frequently.
With more and more nights with temperatures in the 20s fescue lawns are slowing down. But, don’t put your mower away too soon. Most Decembers, an occasional mowing is needed to keep them looking their best.
Leaf Removal
Keeping leaves removed is recommend for all lawns, but critical if you have a cool season lawn. If you remove leaves regularly you will find mulch mowing them back into the turf is an effective way to handle clean-up. If you allow leaves to collect in the corners of a fescue lawn over the winter, those areas will be thin to completely bare next spring.
Remember - fescue lawns need light even in the winter.
Shumard Oak in December
Fescue will completely die out if you allow leaves to pile up this winter.
Fescue lawns need light. Keep leaves removed regularly.
Monitor rainfall and anytime we receive a 1/2" rain or more. turn your irrigation off for a week.
A best practice is to water as needed throughout the winter. Anytime we go a week without some moisture, pick a nice day and water your lawn and landscape.
The red berries of Nandina add interest to the winter landscape.
Mulch
Another great landscape practice for improving survivability of your landscape plantings is a fresh layer of mulch. A 2-3” layer of mulch will provide insulation for your plant roots, retain moisture, and moderate soil temperatures. We recommend adding a layer of fresh cedar, pine, cypress, or pecan mulch.
Irrigation
Through the winter we recommend watering once per week anytime we go a week without ½” of rainfall.
If you have a rain/freeze sensor on your irrigation system and your system is equipped with freeze protection on the backflow, we recommend setting your system to run one time per week through the winter. If the temperature is below 35, the sensor will not allow the system to run and if there has been a recent rain, the system will remain off. If you do not have a rain/freeze sensor, pick a nice day once per week and run your system through a manual cycle.
Soil moisture is a critical ingredient for your landscape’s winter survival.
How can you know the soil moisture? www.mesonet.org is Oklahoma’s industry leading website for weather and climate information. The 1-day Average 2” Fractional Water Index is a good guide to watering decisions.
Most importantly, if your soil is dry, and the forecast has days below freezing, it is recommended you water thoroughly before the cold weather arrives.
Winter damage to our lawn and landscape occurs when the top 3” of soil is dry and temperatures are below freezing.
With the later than normal fall, many trees such as this Gingko is continuing to add bright colors to the early December landscape.
Hollies naturally add a festive touch to the holidays every December.
Winter is the best time to for corrective tree pruning. As leaves drop, inspect your tree canopies and make a plan to prune this winter.
Tree Trim
During winter dormancy, tree trimming is a great practice. As leaves fall and tree canopies are more visible, spend a few minutes analyzing the structure of your trees and start making plans for the next step of corrective pruning. We will cover tree pruning techniques in detail in the next few weeks.
With so many varieties of Japanese Maples, they add color throughout the fall and into December.
Spring Bulbs
Mid-November through mid-December is the perfect time to plant spring flowering bulbs (daffodils, hyacinths, tulips). Spring bulbs require extended cold temperatures to produce. If you procrastinate you run the chance of not having a good color show next spring.
For a good spring color show, bulbs need to be planted in the next couple of weeks.
Oak trees are one of the last trees to change color and then loose their leaves. Most falls you can count on them to add color to the landscape well into December.
Weed Control
If you have not applied the second fall/winter pre-emergent and broadleaf weed control to your lawn yet, it is not too late to do so. The goal with this application is to extend the prevention of weeds until the spring pre-emergent is applied.
Lawns that did not receive two fall pre-emergent applications are starting to see poa annua, the most prolific winter annual weed, start to germinate in thin turf areas. Fall pre-emergent applications are as equally important as spring pre-emergent applications.
Fertilizing Trees and Shrubs
If you have not fertilized your trees and shrubs this fall with a good balanced fertilizer there is still time to do so. Because central Oklahoma soil temperatures typically remain in the 40s through the winter, plant roots remain active. Fall fertilizer applications are important because nitrogen leaches from the soil and needs to be replaced. Our experience has found that a late fertilizer application to feed the roots will aid the health and beauty of your plants next spring.
Tree Planting
Tree farms are harvesting freshly dug trees now. Trees that are dug and replanted during dormancy have the best chance of survival. If you are thinking about adding trees to your landscape anytime in the next year, don’t wait till spring or summer, plant this winter.
Soil Test
If your lawn, shrubs, or trees often look a little off color and lack vigor, now would be a great time to check your soil health. Key soil measurements that determine soil health include pH, total exchange capacity, organic matter and nutrients.
Unhealthy Soil = Sick Lawn & Landscape
Soil Test Results + Recommendations = Healthy Lawn & Landscape
When key soil measurements are out of balance, your lawn and landscape will not respond correctly to fertilizer and weed control applications. With soil test results, Hall | Stewart will formulate a custom plan to return your lawn to a healthy condition.
The late fall pre-emergent application is timed to keep your lawn clean through the winter.
Nandina’s getting into the holiday spirit.
Even though fescue lawn growth has slowed, as a cool season grass, it typically keep great color through December.
Trees that are dug and replanted during dormancy have the best chance of survival.
Foot Traffic
Avoid walking on frozen grass. If is particularly damaging to fescue. Turf areas with winter foot traffic are slow to recover in the spring.
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape has enjoyed being a part of your lawn and landscape this year.
Anytime you need assistance with a lawn or landscape issue, we would love the opportunity to help.
Our goal, as always, is to help you have your best lawn and landscape!
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
Happy Thanksgiving
Thanksgiving…still my favorite holiday.
A time to slow our pace.
A time to spend with friends and family.
A time to reflect on what we are thankful for.
As Thanksgiving approaches this year, my thoughts have turned toward what brings happiness. It seems we are always in pursuit of happiness.
Does our pursuit of happiness often look more like the pursuit of stuff? Of material possessions? Of experiences?
We have all found ourselves in that place. The place where we convince ourselves that if we just have that new house, that new car, the latest fashion, the perfect vacation, we will be happier.
This week, take a minute to reflect on this year. What did you pursue thinking that if you just had it, you would be happier?
Let me guess, as soon as you acquired the thing you thought would make you happier – you started looking for the next thing that will make you even happier.
It is a never-ending game when we focus on things or experiences to make us happier. It doesn’t matter if you have a lot of resources or just enough, you can never get enough stuff or take enough perfect vacations to make yourself happy forever. You will never win the buying happiness game.
My challenge to you this Thanksgiving…focus this week on all the ways you are blessed. Then, develop the habit of showing thankfulness and gratitude every day. For long-lasting happiness is not found in acquiring things, but rather in the daily practice of gratitude.
Your friends at Hall | Stewart are grateful for every opportunity we have to help you have your best lawn and landscape.
Alfredo, Brady, Cameron, Glenn, Jaron, Jeff, Keith, Lorna, Marcos G, Marcos V, Marlon, Morgan, Osmen, Paula, Rigoberto, Tom and Lorne.
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
So, then, what will bring you happiness?
Maybe, just maybe, being thankful, grateful is actually where happiness is found.
Thankfulness is acknowledging the goodness in your life.
Gratitude moves you away from thinking about what you lack and toward the realization of how blessed you are.
Gratitude gives you an appreciation of what you have instead of always reaching for something new in the hopes that it will make you happier.
Leaf Clean-up is a Matter of Lawn Health
Don’t you just love trees!
Trees announce the end of winter by celebrating spring with bursts of colors as they come to life with fresh buds and colorful blossoms.
In the summer, we enjoy the coolness of their shade.
And now, fall, we enjoy the bright shades of red, yellow, orange and brown that trees add to our world.
Lawn and landscape enthusiasts just can’t imagine a world without the enjoyment of trees.
But, it is starting…
the not so enjoyable side of trees…
falling leaves!
Let’s face it, for all the wonderful attributes of trees, trees can be a love-hate relationship.
Maybe “hate” is too strong of a word for a tree lover.
Maybe it more of a love-love-love….
followed by an inconvenient relationship.
It is just so unfortunate that leaf clean-up is a necessary evil of being a tree lover.
Weekly mulch mowing leaves is a best practice for keeping your healthy through the fall.
We love the spectacular red maple leaves on our trees. But, as soon as they clutter the lawn, we can’t stand them.
The old yellow Cottonwood leaves look great towering over this Edmond neighborhood, but soon frequent mulch mowing of leaves will be a best practice in this neighborhood.
Shumard Oak trees are one of the last trees to add color to the fall landscape and also one of the last trees to drop leaves.
Why is leaf clean important?
Can’t I just leave the leaves on the lawn and landscape until an Oklahoma wind pushes them down the street?
Why is it important to clean up leaves when the lawn isn’t growing much and will soon be dormant?
Is the only reason we clean up leaves is to have a neat and tidy landscape?
Actually, leaf clean-up is a particularly important part of lawn health.
Why?
For fescue lawns…
Fescue lawns are thriving right now. Gradully fescue growth will slow but root development will continue.
Light and air are two critical elements needed for the turf to build strong roots.
Strong roots equal a better lawn next spring.
Best practices for fescue lawns are all about developing a strong root system for next summer.
The best practices include fall fertilizer applications, overseeding to thicken the turf, proper water management, and ensuring the turf receives light and air by removing leaves frequently.
For cool season lawns, allowing leaves to accumulate for more than a week results in thinner turf.
Allowing leaves to become matted on cool season lawns will result in completely bare areas. This is important for mature fescue lawns, but especially critical for newly seeded fescue.
Fescue Lawn Recommendation –
Continue to maintain fescue lawns weekly as long as leaves are falling and accumulating.
Oak trees are one of the last trees to drop their leaves. Some varieties of oaks actually hold their leaves until new buds emerge in the spring.
The incredible colors of fall are gradually fading into the stress of leaf cleanup.
Unfortunately, soon the brilliant rusty reds and yellows of my Bald Cypress will cover the lawn and patio.
Due to the smallness of the leaf, Elm leaves will create a thick mat if not cleaned up frequently.
When you make leaf clean up a weekly practice, most of the time it is as simple as using your lawn mower to mulch mow the leaves back into the lawn. Studies show mulch mowing leaves return nutrients and organic matter back to the soil.
My current practice is to mulch mow my fescue lawn every 4-5 days.
When leaf drop is heavy, raking and removal may be needed. The goal is to return your lawn condition to the point where air and light can reach the turf blades. If mulch mowing only results in a heavy layer of smaller leaves, it is time to rake and bag.
When a large leaf drop occurs, and it typically happens once or twice every fall, my practice is to blow the majority of leaves into piles, bag them and then mulch mow the lawn.
So, is leaf clean-up necessary? Yes:
Leaf removal is a matter of lawn health, not just tidiness.
All lawns need air and light to thrive, even in the fall and winter.
Resist the urge to wait until all your leaves have dropped before you clean them up!
Mulch mowing often is a beneficial way to keep leaves cleaned up.
Bald Cypress needles are notorious for creating a dense blanket robbing your lawn of light and air.
For bermuda lawns…
It is tempting to let leaves build up on dormant warm season lawn. But, dormant bermuda also needs air and light. Piled up leaves trap moisture and are prime breeding grounds for disease. Moist leaves can result in fungal problems.
It is common to find thin, and sometimes bare areas in bermuda lawns where leaves have been left for extended periods of time.
Bermuda Lawn Recommendation –
Even though warm seasons lawns have stopped growing and are entering dormancy, keeping leaves cleaned up and not allowing them to accumulate around edges and in corners is the best practice.
Leaves piled up in corners are a breeding ground for disease.
Mulching leaves with your mower is very beneficial to your soil.
Allowing leaves to accumulate on your lawn can result in a thinner turf.
A leaf covered lawn will reduce the effectiveness of the last lawn application of the year by limiting the weed preventing herbicide from reaching the soil surface.
Another reason for regular leaf removal is the timing of the last lawn care application of the season –
Fall is a critical time to prevent and control weeds and set your lawn up for a great start next spring. Application effectiveness is reduced when the herbicide can’t reach the target because there is a layer of leaves.
Some the the most dynamic yellow leaves in the metro can be found on the Ginkgo Trees on NW 1st and Classen in front of the old Sunshine Cleaners building.
Don’t allow leaves to accumulate on your lawn edges for days and days. If you do the result will be thin edges next spring.
Frequent leaf clean-up this fall will give you a better-looking, healthier lawn next spring and, more importantly, it could prevent you from spending time and money repairing a thin lawn.
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
Oh, the Colors of Fall!
What a spectacular week!
It is officially time to get outdoors and enjoy the fall show!
Plan a color walk through your favorite neighborhood or park, take a leisurely bike ride through a neighborhood full of mature trees, or take an afternoon drive around the metro area.
Plan a walk through a neighborhood with mature trees full of fall color this week.
Yellow leafed Japanese Maples add bright pots of yellow to the fall landscape.
Fall color depends upon a few key elements:
Abundant moisture during the growing season.
The best fall color follows a summer of consistent moisture. When we have a below normal, dry late summer or dry early fall, you can expect to see a slightly less dynamic fall color.
2. Average to late freeze.
The average first freeze in central Oklahoma occurs during the first few days of November. Some areas of the metro experienced an early light freeze last week, but for most of the area, we have not had a freeze yet this year. When it comes to the first fall freeze, the best fall color occurs when the first freeze comes late, and it is a light freeze.
3. Cool fall nights with plenty of sunshine.
The more average cool fall nights, nights above freezing, the better the fall color. Also, the more sunny days versus cloudy days, the more dynamic the colors will be.
4. Low winds.
Once the leaves make the change to brilliant yellows, oranges and reds, the last thing we want is a gusty day stripping the trees. Once leaves start to turn, low to no wind days will extend the color.
Just a reminder to keep the leaves cleaned up often. Fescue needs light!
I always look forward to seeing this maple in Mesta Park every fall.
Nandina is an old time plant that showers us with large berry clusters followed by bright orange, red leaves as the fall progresses.
Japanese Maple
Based on these four elements - the dryness in August extending through October, windy days and the possibility of a hard freeze this weekend, early fall color may fade quickly. Hopefully, the trees that add color later into the fall will still put on a good show. Last year, our fall color show went into December.
Typically, peak fall color for central Oklahoma is the first two weeks of November.
Pyracantha
What is your favorite fall tree or shrub?
What is mine? Any and all! Every day I have a new favorite.
Here are a few that I always look forward to seeing in the fall landscape:
Boston Ivy is a deciduous vine that turns bright red in the fall.
Autumn Blaze Maple
Autumn Blaze Maples are the first maples to announce it is fall.
Looking for a place to take leisurely fall color bike ride? Start on NW 14th in Heritage Hills and discover this Autumn Blaze Maple.
Autumn Blaze Maple
One of the first trees to start the show with bright orange to red foliage. I’m sure you have noticed them. Often the heat of late summer will leave Maples with tattered leaves and less fall color. This year, the late August rainfall kept Maple leaves from appearing as tattered. Maples do best when they have protection from late evening, radiant heat. This explains why you will find some of the brightest reds on maples planted amongst other large trees.
Chinese Pistache
Chinese Pistache is a dependable medium sized tree that is tolerate of a wide range of planting locations.
Chinese Pistache
The Chinese Pistache at NW 18th and Shartel Ave are typically put on a brilliant show.
Chinese Pistache
A round top, medium sized tree, with incredible colors of yellow, orange, and red in the fall. The best Chinese Pistache are so electric you would think they are plugged in. The only downside to a Chinese Pistache is inconsistency. Not everyone will have dynamic color. We have one in our front lawn, the color is good, but not as brilliant as others.
There is something about the way the late afternoon fall sun hits the changing leaves of a bald cypress that makes you stop and pause.
Bald Cypress
Bald Cypress
Known for being the only deciduous needle tree, bald cypress has a brilliant rusty red color in the fall. It is a large tree, too large for the typical city sized yard, but if you have a large area, it will not disappoint in the fall. We have one planted near the water, and we can count on it consistently putting on a good fall show. There is something about how the late evening sun hits the color changing foliage in the fall that causes me to pause for a minute and stare every evening.
Lacebark Elm
A large tree with mottled bark that is not as disease and pest prone as the traditional elms. You can expect bright yellow leaves for fall. A favorite variety is the Allee with its vase shape.
October Glory Maple is similar to the Autumn Blaze in growth and color but puts on a color show a couple weeks after the Autumn Blaze
October Glory Maple
October Glory Maple in early December last year.
October Glory Maple adds orange-red to red color to the landscape just a little latter than the Autumn Blaze Maple.
October Glory Maple
October Glory Maple
Another large Maple like the Autumn Blaze in growth and fall color. One difference is the October Glory’s peak color usually comes a couple of weeks later than the Autumn Blaze. While Autumn Blaze is one of the first trees to turn red in the fall, October Glory is one of the last. Maybe every landscape should have one of each.
Shantung Maple
Shantung Maple is a smaller tree with brilliant golden yellow to orange fall color.
Shantung Maple
A smaller, 20-25’ Maple with yellow to orange to red color. This tree is ideal for planting near power lines, in smaller lawns, or as an accent tree in a larger landscape.
I enjoy the view of our neighbor’s maple trees every fall and I’m so thankful they added them to their landscape!
The reddish browns of Shumard Oak rarely disappoint.
Shumard Oak
Shumard Oak
There are so many great oaks, but this is my favorite. A large, 50-75’ tree with good red fall color. One advantage to the Shumard Oak is it’s more tolerant of our alkaline soils.
Redbud
Redbud
A smaller tree, famous for being one of the first to flower in the spring but often overlooked for its bright yellow fall color. The native Eastern Redbud has better fall color than the improved Oklahoma Redbud but can disappoint if the summer has left the leaves too tattered.
Ginkgo
Ginkgo
Ginkgo
Ginkgo
An underused, 40-60’ tree that does very well in street plantings. The Ginkgo has a distinct, fan shaped, irregularly notched leaf that could lay claim to the best yellow fall color.
Silhouette Sweetgum are a great tree for adding bright fall color to small spaces.
Sweetgum may be the most perfect tree with star-shaped dark green leaves that turn wonderful shades of yellow, orange, red, and purple lasting late into the fall. (Perfect except for those annoying spiky seed balls that litter your lawn.)
Slender Silhouette Sweetgum is columnar shaped and great for tight spaces and crest a wonderful vertical accent.
Sweet Gum
If it weren’t for the spiny, 1-1.5” seed balls that litter a lawn, this tree would be on every landscape enthusiast’s wish list. When you see a sweetgum in the fall, it immediately gets your attention because of the multicolored leaves. The star-shaped leaves turn shades of yellow, orange, red, and purple often persisting late into the fall. The tree performs well in both wet and dry soils and reaches 50-60’. The Slender Silhouette variety is a columnar shaped Sweetgum that reaches 40-50’ but is only 4’ wide. It is great for tight spaces, small gardens, and any place you want to create a striking vertical accent. Just like the full-sized tree, it is common for there to be several rich colors on the same tree.
Ash
Ash
Ash
Marshall’s Seedless Ash is a proven variety with dark green foliage and bright yellow fall color. Ash is known for its tolerance of hot, dry winds and both wet and dry soils, making them well suited for our climate.
This allee of single trunk Crape Myrtles at the Myriad Gardens is a great example of the fall color Crape Myrtles add to the landscape when we allow them grow to their natural size as trees instead of excessively pruning them every spring into large shrubs.
Crape Myrtle
Crape Myrtles
Our longest blooming landscape plant is too often overlooked for the orange to red fall colors it brings to the landscape. Incorrectly, Crape Myrtle are pruned into large shrubs, and we rarely get to experience their splendor in the fall as a tree. When allowed to grow naturally, you find their addition to the fall landscape stunning.
A Dogwood growing in a native area in eastern Oklahoma.
Dogwood
Dogwoods
A rarely planted tree in central Oklahoma that makes a great understory tree in shady areas with dark red fall color. If you have mature trees in your landscape, consider adding a dogwood as an accent. The Tulsa area is blessed with an abundance of fall color from dogwoods.
Euonymus Burning Bush
Burning Bush looks great on groupings or as a single specimen.
Euonymus Burning Bush
Euonymus Burning Bush
A medium to large shrub with bright red fall color. Like the Chinese Pistache, they can be inconsistent. Also known as Winged Euonymus. When it is over pruned, it doesn’t reach its full potential. When it is left to grow to its natural shape and height, and it has received sufficient moisture through the summer, the fall color is intense and more consistent than any other plant. It is a great planted as a single specimen, in a grouping or as a natural hedge. For smaller landscapes, plant the ‘Compactus’ variety.
Oakleaf Hydrangea are know for their white flowers in early summer, but with their large burgundy colored leaves also put on a great fall show.
Oakleaf Hydrangeas are often overlooked for their rich red fall color.
Oakleaf Hydrangea
One of the most underutilized, showy plants available. It is known for magnificent white flowers in the early summer, but it is often overlooked for the rich burgundy color of the large, lobed leaves in the fall. It prefers moist, rich, well-drained soil and best planted in shade to partial shade.
Ornamental grasses can also add brilliant colors to the fall landscape. One of my favorites is Pink Muhly.
Pink Muhly Grass
An upright, slightly arching ornamental grass that produces a soft, airy pink to purple bloom in late September to early November. Great planted as a single specimen or as a mass planting.
Autumn Sage is a perennial that adds bright pinks to the fall landscape.
Autumn Sage
Autumn Sage
A showy perennial that adds prolific hot pink color to the fall landscape. Great for hot, sunny locations.
There are several varieties of Sumac each with their own dynamic fall color.
Sumac
Sumac
Used as a large shrub or a specimen small tree with great tolerance for dry, poor soils. Sumac has a bright red fall color. It is best known for the bright red color it adds to the native landscape, but it deserves to be planted in more landscapes as an understory.
Did you notice the list of great fall colors include more than trees?
Don’t overlook all the color shrubs, vines and perennials that can add to your fall landscape.
Get outside!
Maybe you will find a tree or shrub you need to add to your landscape!
We would love to see pictures of your favorite fall colors!
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873