Lorne Hall 6/21/26 Lorne Hall 6/21/26

Summer Blooming Trees

Hello Summer!

In case you missed it, summer officially arrived at 3:24 this morning!

For landscape enthusiasts, there isn’t a better way to celebrate the first day of summer than spend the morning visiting about trees that add color to our landscapes through the heat of Oklahoma summers.

Vitex – Covered with lilac-purple flowers in June and July.

Commonly known as Chaste Tree. It is easy to overlook this summer bloomer because too often they look like overgrown shrubs. But, when you see a 15-20’ tall, multi-truck, well maintained variety covered with 12-18” flowers spikes most commonly purplish blue and gray-green foliage, you will fall in love. They do well as large shrubs but make an even better summer statement when their lower branches are kept clear of suckers. They are very tolerant of our soils and weather. Fertilizing in the spring and sufficient water in the early summer will produce the most dramatic summer show. Best planted in full sun. There are also varieties with pink and white flowers.

Vitex makes a bold summertime statement with its 12-18” purple flowers.

The multi-trunks of a well maintained Vitex add a dramatic look to a landscape.

Vitex does well as a large shrub but looks even better as a small, multi-truck tree when their lower branches are free of sucker growth.

Goldenrain Tree adds brightness to the summer landscape with papery, lantern like flower pods.

The early summer bright yellows of the Goldenrain Trees are eye catching.

Goldenrain Tree – Never receives enough attention for its stunning yellow color.

As the tree matures it develops an open branched, airy, oval shaped form with rich yellow flowers in June and July. The flowers form a papery, lantern-like pod that gradually turns brown in late summer. The tree handles drought and heat well. It is tolerant of most soil types, but is a fast grower in moist, well-drained soils. It is an excellent lawn specimen that grows to 30-40’ high and wide.

Goldenrain Tree flowers gradually turn to a papery, pattern like seed pod in late summer adding another interest to the landscape.

Mimosa – Fern like foliage with pink pincushion style blooms.

My childhood home had one in the front lawn. Unfortunately, most old varieties of Mimosa were susceptible to a wilt disease that results in gradual decline and eventual death. Prolific seeders, it is common to see them growing in rural fence rows. But, in recent years we have seen a resurgence of Mimosa with newer, disease resistant varieties. With an umbrella shaped canopy and fern-like leaves, the tree adds a tropical look to the landscape. Fast growers that will reach 15-30’ depending on the variety. For even more summer interest, check out the Summer Chocolate and Chocolate Fountain Mimosa varieties have bronze-green and purple foliage.

Mimosas have been adding pink pincushion style blooms to the summer landscape for generations.

Ombrella Mimosa is a newer, disease resistant variety with large, cherry-pink, powder-puff-shaped, fragrant flowers.

Chocolate Mimosa Trees leaves deepen to a rich chocolate-brown color during the summer with pink pincushion-like blooms.

Desert Willow have trumpet shaped blooms and are the most drought and heat resistant flowering tree.

Dessert Willow – Great addition to a waterwise landscape.

Willow type narrow leaves create an airy tropical, loose appearance with long blooming trumpet shaped blooms. A smaller tree, 15-20’ tall, that is loved by hummingbirds. They need to be planted in full sun and prefer dry, well-drained soil. Unlike traditional willow trees, they will not tolerate wet soils. Dessert Willow is the most drought and heat-resistant flowering tree.

Smoke Tree – Tremendous visual appeal in May and June.

Often considered a large shrub, this small tree can reach 10-15’, producing smoke like airy plums in early summer. There are several varieties available ranging from green, to yellow, to purple leaves. Best planted in full sun.

Smoke Trees add smoke like airy plumes to the landscape in early summer.

Smoke Trees make an excellent landscape focus as a small tree.

Royal Purple Smoke Tree has dramatic, pinkish purple, smoke-like clusters on reddish purple foliage.

There is a Smoke Tree variety with green leaves and lime green airy plumes.

Rose of Sharon – Adds an antique appearance to the landscape.

Often found as a large shrub at older residences, but many improved varieties are available. With a strong multi-stemmed upright growth habit, they add interest to the landscape as a small tree, 8-10’ tall. White is the most common bloom color but there are varieties in pinks, blues, and purple as well. They grow well in full sun to partial shade.

Magnolias add a graceful feel to the summer landscape with their large white fragrant flowers.

Magnolia, an evergreen, has leaves that are large, shinny, and dark green on the top, but velvety, reddish-brown on the underside.

Rose of Sharon is an old fashioned typically grown as a large shrub, but with their upright multi-stemmed growth habit they make a great small tree.

Magnolia – An evergreen summer blooming tree.

The traditional Magnolia, Southern Magnolia, is a large 50-80’ tall, 30-50’ wide evergreen that is too large for most city-sized landscapes. But the Little Gem and Teddy Bear Magnolia are smaller, 20-25’ tall, 10-15’ wide, compact forms of the Southern Magnolia. They grace the landscape with large shiny dark green leaves with a velvety, reddish-brown underside year-round and large 8” white saucer shaped blooms from early summer to fall.

Crape Myrtles most commonly are multi-truck small trees, but more recently we are seeing more and more grown as single-trimmed trees.

Crape Myrtle – Summer’s biggest show.

There are over 50 varieties of Crape Myrtles and new ones are introduced every year. The color pallet ranges from white, pink, purple and red. Bloom color is not the only attribute of a crape myrtle. Their foliage ranges from dark green, wine colored, velvet and dark purple. The combination of the bloom and foliage colors is one of the things that attracts me to the plant.

With so many varieties of Crape Myrtles, there is sure to be one right for your landscape. Here are a few of my favorites:

Pink Velour – Large 12-15’ small tree form with dark wine foliage and bright pink flowers. The foliage and flower combination are very striking.
Dynamite – Also a small tree that grows up to 15’. Dynamite was one of the first red tree form varieties. New foliage is nearly crimson in color and changes to a rich green as it matures. Flowers are brilliant red.
Natchez – One of the largest tree form crape myrtles reaching 25’. The foliage is rich green, and the flowers are white. The cinnamon brown bark puts on a show of its own as it exfoliates.
Ebony Flame – A great accent plant that grows 10-12’ with dark red blooms on intense black foliage.

The bark of a large Crape Myrtle is one of the most overlooked aspects. The bark is smooth and ranges in color from pink to gray. As the plant matures, the thin bark exfoliates to expose a different color underneath. Too often, tree form Crape Myrtles are severely pruned every spring, and we never get to enjoy the beautiful bark of the mature plant.

One of the nation’s leading innovators of Crape Myrtles is Oklahoma’s own, Dr. Carl Whitcomb. Dr. Whitcomb holds 32 patents and has authored five books including Know It and Grow It, a book every landscape enthusiast should own. You can see all of Dr. Whitcomb’s Crape Myrtles by following this link.

Some of the brightest colors you will see this summer will be from Crape Myrtles.

Mature Crape Myrtles grown as trees have the added interest of multicolored bark.

What is your favorite?

Did any of these inspire you to add a new summer blooming tree to your landscape?

Get outside. Walk the neighborhood. Visit one of our parks.

I am confident you will discover a few of these trees adding color to the summer!

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

Lorne Hall 6/14/26 Lorne Hall 6/14/26

3 Keys to a Great Lawn -- #3 Environmental Conditions

When it comes to having a great lawn, what is most important?

Is it the lawn care applications?
Is it mowing practices?
Is it environmental conditions?

All three are keys to a great lawn - Lawn Care Applications, Maintenance, and Environmental Conditions.

Great lawns are not a result of getting one, or even two, of the three correct.

Great lawns are equally the result of all three.

In April, we covered Lawn Care Applications.

In May, we discussed Maintenance.

Today, we are covering the last key - Environmental Conditions.

Environmental Conditions are all the things that are outside of our control:

Rainfall & Soil Moisture
Air Temperatures & Soil Temperatures
Sunshine & Wind

If we can’t control them, then we are off the hook when it comes to environmental conditions, right? When it comes to weather, what happens is what happens, right?

Not so fast. Even though environmental conditions are outside our control, we do have a role to play:

Our role is to monitor environmental conditions and respond accordingly. Over the past two weeks, I have discovered several dry lawns experiencing early signs of drought stress with the irrigation systems off. In each case, the homeowner thought we had received more rainfall than we had.
Our role is to maintain a healthy lawn. Lawns with healthy soil and deep roots have more resilience to environmental conditions. Lawns that are consistently well maintained show less stress and recover quicker from extreme heat and cold, and periods of drought. If your lawn is slow to recover from harsh environmental conditions, your lawn may have unhealthy soil. Key soil measurements that determine soil health include pH, total exchange capacity, organic matter and nutrients. When key soil measurements are out of balance, your lawn will not be as resilient to harsh environmental conditions.

A good source for monitoring all weather data is mesonet.org.

The Oklahoma Mesonet is a world-class network of environmental monitoring stations. The network was designed and implemented by scientists at the University of Oklahoma (OU) and at Oklahoma State University (OSU).

The Oklahoma Mesonet was commissioned on January 1, 1994 and consists of 120 automated stations covering Oklahoma. There is at least one Mesonet station in each of Oklahoma's 77 counties.

At each site, the environment is measured by a set of instruments located on or near a 10-meter-tall tower. The measurements are packaged into "observations" every 5 minutes, then the observations are transmitted to a central facility every 5 minutes, 24 hours per day year-round.

The Oklahoma Climatological Survey (OCS) at OU receives the observations, verifies the quality of the data and provides the data to Mesonet customers. It only takes 5 to 10 minutes from the time the measurements are acquired until they become available to the public.

How do environmental conditions impact our lawns and what we can do?

Rainfall & Soil Moisture

The amount of rainfall in the last 7 days is an important starting point for watering decisions. But, knowing the soil moisture is even more important.

The best rainfalls are slow soakers vs downpours. A slow soaker will increase soil moisture and provide your lawn’s root system with life sustaining moisture. A downpour will help the lawn in the short term but has little benefit when it comes to increasing soil moisture. It is important to not only know rainfall amounts but also to know the soil moisture.

June, typically one of our wettest months (4.7” average), has started off very dry. Two weeks into the month and the metro area has received less than .25” of rainfall.

These two maps combined guide my watering decisions. During the summer months when temperatures are in the 80s and 90s, if the 7-day rainfall map reports less than 1” and soil index is less .7 or less, you need to be watering your lawn.

Fescue, when watered with deep soakings every other day, will stand up to 90+ temperatures.

Best Watering Practices

Deep soakings are always best. Short, shallow watering is detrimental to your lawn and landscape in the heat. The healthiest lawns are watered to the point of runoff and then allowed to dry for a day. Daily watering, except for newly planted lawns, is not beneficial, even in 90+ degree heat.

Only water in the early morning. This is typically the least windy time of day and always the time of the least evaporation. Avoid watering in the evening. Wet grass, especially wet fescue, is prone to disease when it stays wet for more than 5 hours at a time and temperatures are in the 90s.

Lawns need 1” to 1.5” of water per week during the summer months to stay green and active.

How long should you water? Every irrigation system is different – different head types, different size nozzles, different head spacing, different areas, etc. The best way to know how long you should water is to place a few Hall | Stewart Water Gauges or a few cans around your lawn in a random pattern. Run your sprinklers through a cycle and check the amount of water each area received. If the sprinklers ran for 15 minutes and you had .25” of water, you need 60 to 90 minutes per week. Next determine how long you can run your irrigation before you there is excessive runoff. This will tell you how many times per week you need to water. If you can get away with watering every 4th day, you will have a healthier, stronger landscape. Unfortunately, with our tight soils, watering every other day on the required ODD/EVEN system during the hottest times is needed to get the correct amount of water on the lawn without excessive runoff.

After watering a normal cycle, the Hall | Stewart water gauge is showing just over 1/2” of moisture. In this situation watering 2-3 times per week will give your lawn the correct amount to remain healthy and green.

If you don’t have the time to audit the amount of water your system puts out, start with these settings, monitor, and adjust: Fixed spray pattern heads with 10-15’ spacings – 10-15 mins per time. Larger rotor type heads on 10-30’ spacings – 30-40 mins per time.

Set your controller to water with back-to-back run times to reduce the amount of runoff. Moist soil absorbs more water than dry soil. Split the amount of time each zone runs in half and set your controller to come on twice on your water days. Example: Set controller to come on at 4:00 AM and 6:00 AM.

I started the practice of setting irrigation controller to run back-to-back run times a few years ago, on slopes and gradually have incorporated the concept to all lawns.

It really makes a difference in water efficiency.

Aeration improves moisture absorption. You can’t beat aeration for improving your soil structure and a benefit of improved soil structure is better water absorption. Lawns that are aerated every year (or at least every other year) do not experience as much runoff.

Watch for uneven water patterns. If you notice areas where the lawn is fading, check your system for a broken head, clogged nozzle, or a head that is out of adjustment.

Even if you don’t have an irrigation system, the concepts of good watering apply. There are several brands of inexpensive hose type timers that make it easy for you to control the timing and frequency.

Too much water can be a problem. You can cause damage to your lawn and landscape quicker by overwatering than you will by underwatering. Waterlogged soil reduces the amount of oxygen. Roots need both moisture and oxygen to survive. Many plants struggle when they do not have a chance to dry out between waterings, such as fescue. Fescue’s biggest problem is brown patch. Brown patch will develop when nighttime temperatures are in the 70’s and the leaf blades stay wet too long. Don’t create your own microclimate that promotes disease by overwatering, watering too often, or watering at night.

Frequent shallow watering reduces the need for grass to develop deeper roots. As summer heat increases, the lack of deep root development will result in quicker signs of drought stress on lawns.

*If you notice areas where your lawn is fading start with an irrigation check to make sure heads are functioning correctly.*

Air Temperatures & Soil Temperatures

Air temperatures get all the attention. But, the driving factor for lawns is the soil temperature.

Soil temperatures are a key factor in determining when weeds germinate, when lawns start to turn green, and when they are actively growing.

Soil temperature of 55 degrees in the spring is when most summer annual weeds begin to germinate. For the best weed prevention, each summer a pre-emergent herbicide must be applied before the soil temperature reaches 55 degrees for three consecutive days. This year, summer annual weed germination began the first week of March, earlier than normal.

Soil temperature of 55 degrees is when fescue starts to absorb nutrients, regains a rich green color, and begins prolific growth. Most years in central Oklahoma, March is the month to start fertilizing Fescue.

Soil temperature of 65 degrees is when warm season grasses (bermuda and zoysia) become active. Then, once soil temperatures consistently reach 70 degrees bermuda grows its best. In a typical spring, we expect bermuda lawns to green up gradually during April and be active growing by early May. Inconsistent soil temperatures in April and May are the biggest reason for slow warm season turf growth.

Bermuda performs best when soil temperatures are consistently in the 70s.

*Brown patch disease in fescue appears as irregular areas that lead you to believe the lawn may not be getting enough water.*

Other environmental factors that will impact spring green-up: Shady areas and turf on the north side of homes will come out of dormancy slower because the soil temperature will lag. Low moisture levels during the transition period will slow green-up. Turf grass that must compete with weeds for nutrients and moisture will also be slower. Compacted soil will slow the process by restricting air, nutrient and water movement to the roots.

Soil temperature below 70 degrees in the fall is when winter annual weeds start to germinate. This typically occurs in mid to late September. For the best weed free lawn during winter dormancy ,the first fall pre-emergent herbicide needs to be applied between mid-August and the end of September.

Once soil temperatures begin to cool in September, it is important to apply little to no nitrogen fertilizer to warm season turf. Pushing the turf to stay green deep into the fall is the most common cause for bermuda problems such as spring dead spot.

When soil temperatures begin to cool in September and into October it is the best time to establish fescue from seed.

Soil temperature is the critical measurement for pre-emergent herbicides, fertilizer applications and seeding.

Applications of high nitrogen fertilizer on bermuda lawns after mid-September increases the probability of having spring dead spot the following spring.

There is one important thing you can do to help when temperatures are high – adjust mowing height. Mowing at the maximum mowing height for your turf type provides a canopy that cools the soil and promotes a deep root system. Maintain fescue at 3” to 3.5” and bermuda at 2.5” during the summer heat. If you mow frequently enough, don’t bag your clippings. A light sprinkling of grass clippings will act as mulch for the lawn helping to hold moisture in the soil. The key is mowing often. Leaving clumps of clippings on the lawn is not helpful.

Sunshine & Wind

Turfgrass moisture loss is much higher on windy, sunny days. This is a fact we often overlook and fail to adjust to.

Evapotranspiration (ET) is the loss of moisture through evaporation from the soil and transpiration from the leaves. Turfgrass leaf blades are usually 75% water. The highest ET rates occur on hot, sunny days with lower humidity and moderate winds. This past week, high ET rates have started taking a toll on many lawns.

Another way sunshine and wind impact lawns are in areas of low air circulation and heavy shade. Areas with thicker plant materials, privacy fences, and structures are more prone to diseases due to low air circulation. Be aware of these areas and make sure you are not keeping these areas too moist.

The last of three things that impacts the quality of your lawn, environmental conditions, is something that you have no control over.

But, just because you have no control doesn’t give you an excuse.

Your role, and our role, when it comes to the impact of environmental conditions on your lawn is to be aware, monitor, maintain a healthy growing environment and adjust our practices based on the conditions.

Our goal, no matter the current conditions, is to help you have the best lawn possible.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

**PICTURE OF THE WEEK:**
**We have all seen bagworms use the leaves of the host plant to spin a cocoon, but have you ever seen them build a cocoon out of the berries on a pyracantha?**

Lorne Hall 6/7/26 Lorne Hall 6/7/26

Brown Patch – Fescue’s Biggest Summer Challenge

Common Belief – Fescue’s biggest summer challenge is surviving the heat.

Fact – Fescue’s biggest summer challenge is surviving Brown Patch.

It is a misconception that fescue lawns need a lot of water to survive summertime. The truth is too much watering, or rather, bad watering practices, is the reason why Brown Patch is the biggest problem for fescue during the summer.

If don’t have any fescue in your lawn and are about to click delete…DON’T DO IT!

There is valuable information at the bottom of the article about BAGWORMS.

So, what is Brown Patch and why is it fescues biggest problem?

Early summer and the Fescue lawns are at their prime. Over the next few weeks as temperatures climb, Fescue, a cool season grass, will enter its biggest challenge. Common belief is summer heat is the biggest challenge for growing fescue in Oklahoma. But it isn’t the heat that is Fescue’s biggest challenge, rather Brown Patch disease is the biggest challenge to successfully growing fescue in Oklahoma.

The common belief is that fescue’s biggest summer challenge is surviving the heat.

But, the fact is fescue’s biggest summer challenge is surviving Brown Patch.

There is a belief that fescue lawns require a lot of water to survive the summertime. But the truth is too much water, either from rainfall or from overwatering, bad watering practices, is the reason Brown Patch is the biggest problem for fescue during the summer.

BAG WORM ALERT! If don’t have any fescue in your lawn and are about to click delete… DON’T DO IT! There is valuable information at the end of this article about BAGWORMS.

What is Brown Patch and why is it fescues biggest problem?

Brown Patch is the most common disease of fescue in Oklahoma. The pathogen (Rhizoctonia solani) that causes Brown Patch prefers warm temperatures and requires excessive moisture.

Brown Patch will develop anytime daytime temperatures are in the 90s, nighttime temperatures stay in the 70s and the turf leaf blades stay wet for 5 hours or more. Rain, or even just high humidities and excessive dew can be enough to keep your turfgrass wet for an extended period giving Brown Patch the opportunity to develop.

In June, typically Oklahoma City’s second wettest month, Brown Patch often occurs because the conditions for the disease are exactly right.

In July and August, as the climate moves from being more humid to being more arid, we should see less Brown Patch pressure on fescue lawns, but we don’t. As the summer gets warmer, we typically see more of the disease because the default tendency is to overwater fescue, and/or to water incorrectly.

Brown Patch appears as irregularly shaped larger areas of thinning, brown to yellow grass blades. Close inspection of leaf blades will reveal small, irregular, tan leaf spots with dark-brown borders.

Brown Patch will be more severe in areas of poor soil drainage, areas with poor air movement, areas with dense shade, and fescue that is over fertilized in the summer.

Fescue lawns that are watered daily, or watered in the evening, are likely to struggle with Brown Patch.

Do not use high rates of nitrogen fertilizer on fescue when temperatures are prime for Brown Patch during the summer months. Apply no more than ½ lb. of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet on fescue during summer months. The disease readily attacks the lush growth of grass promoted by nitrogen. During the early summer fertilize fescue with a low nitrogen fertilizer containing higher amounts of phosphorus and potassium to strengthen the root system then do not fertilize again until temperatures begin to cool in September.
Keep the lawn mowed regularly at the proper height. Fescue should be mowed at 3 to 3 ½” in the summer. Lower mowing will increase disease severity. Remove clippings if you have an active outbreak of Brown Patch. Diseased clippings will feed the spread of the pathogen.
Do all you can to provide good drainage. Annual aeration in the fall will improve soil structure and improve water movement off the surface and into the root zone.

Close inspection of leaf blades will reveal small, irregular, tan leaf spots with dark-brown borders.

Brown patch disease loves mornings when there is a heavy dew.

What can be done to minimize the problem of Brown Patch on Fescue?

Selecting tall fescue varieties with a high resistance to Brown Patch is a critical first step. We recommend using a fescue blend with at least three varieties. Additionally, look for a mixture specifically for our area. The mixture we use to overseed fescue in the fall includes varieties that show high resistance to brown patch.
Avoiding prolonged periods of leaf wetness will drastically reduce the severity of Brown Patch. When temperatures are warm and fescue grass blades are wet for more than 5 hours at a time, the disease will be present. Do not water daily. Do not water in the evening. Water only when needed and only in the early morning. Deep soaking every other day is best practice. The goal is to get 1 ½” of water on fescue during the summer per week by watering no more than 3 times per week. Deep soak in the morning. Skip a day, then deep soak again.

Want to water your fescue less and still have a healthy fescue lawn? Contact us about our Water Retention Program. Need more information?

A close look at the leaf blades in this area of fescue that is turning slightly brown and thinning reveals the presence of brown patch disease.

Watch this video to see the difference between brown patch and lack of water on a fescue lawn.

A key to managing Brown Patch in fescue is to water deep early in the morning every other day during the summer and avoid keeping the lawn moist for 5 or more hours at a time.

Overseed fescue in the fall. Avoid spring seeding of fescue. Brown Patch is more aggressive on young fescue while mature fescue is more resistant. It is common for spring seeded fescue to struggle with brown patch during the summer.
Have your soil tested every couple of years. Brown Patch will be more severe when the soil is not healthy, pH is too high or too low, or nutrients are out of balance.
The best way to prevent Brown Patch is to eliminate areas where the disease will thrive. Consider making changes to the landscape in areas with poor air circulation and dense shade. Small turf areas surrounded by structures, fences, and heavy landscaping are brown patch prone. You may find removing the turf and extending the landscape or planting groundcovers a better option.

Most importantly…. when we receive rainfall during summer months turn your irrigation off for a few days. Allow time for your lawn and landscape to dry out, good for all types of turf, but critical for fescue.

Cultural practices are very important and the best practices for Brown Patch management.

Fungicides are effective for Brown Patch as either a preventive or curative treatment. Fungicides can be applied in late spring and early summer when the conditions are right for the development of the disease.

Areas of dense shade and poor air circulation may be better served with ground covers such as liriope.

If your fescue is not looking its best, don’t assume it needs more water. Brown Patch will lead you to believe the lawn is too dry. Before you start watering, inspect the leaf blades for evidence of the disease and check the soil to see if it is dry.

It is common for us to receive a call reporting:

“I just can’t get enough water on my fescue to keep it alive…” only to make a site visit to find a thinning fescue lawn struggling with self-induced brown patch from overwatering.

Bagworm Alert!

Bagworms start out very small, so small you may think they are just another needle or leaf.

Bagworms started showing up this week. Right now they are so small that unless you are looking for them you won’t see them.

Bagworms, very small bagworms, are starting to feed on your plants!

Bagworm Info:

Early in the life cycle the worm inside the bag is very small, about the size of a pencil lead. Treatment with an insecticide now will be very effective.

Do you notice the slight color difference between the two junipers? The one on the left is covered with hundreds of very small, almost unnoticeable bagworms that are quickly destroying the mature Taylor Juniper.

¼”-2” long spindle shaped bag wrapped in the foliage of the host plant. Young bagworms are very hard to spot.
Favorite host plants are juniper, arborvitae, spruce, pine, and cedar. But they can attach themselves to any deciduous shrubs and trees.
Females lay eggs in bags left on plants over the winter. One female bagworm will lay as many as 500 eggs. The eggs hatch in the late spring and tiny larva crawls out and start feeding. As they feed, they use silk and plant materials to protect and camouflage themselves. Bagworms can strip a plant of foliage. They are active from late May through September.
Heavy infestations, particularly on the same plant year after year, can cause plant death.
When there are only a few, control is best by hand picking. If you have a large population an insecticide treatment should be made as soon as they are noticed. Try to remove any bags left on plant material in the fall. Bags left on the plant will serve as cocoons for females to lay more eggs. When removing bags, destroy them. Do not pick and toss on the ground as the worm will crawl back to a plant.

Do your landscape a favor this weekend…inspect plants for very tiny bagworms. Your landscape will thank you with healthy shrubs full of rich color and texture.

Anytime you have questions or concerns about your lawn or landscape, give us a call. Our goal is to help you have your best lawn and landscape!

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

Lorne Hall 5/31/26 Lorne Hall 5/31/26

June Lawn & Landscape Tips

Hello, June!

Hello, Summer!

June… the month everything feels just a little brighter.

June… the month when lawns, both warm season bermuda, zoysia, and cool season fescue look great.

June… the month when an abundance of perennials add color to the landscape.

June… the month summer blooming shrubs and trees start adding color to our world.

June… the month to discover a new favorite tree, shrub, perennial or summer annual color. What will be your favorite this June?

Awe…June is the month when all your lawn and landscape work this spring rewards you with enjoyable evenings on the patio.

June… what a magnificent month for your lawn and landscape!

Wait…don’t get too comfortable, it is summer, and your lawn and landscape still need attention:

*June is the month for day lilies to add splashes of color to the landscape.*

*Endless Summer Hydrangea are gracing the landscape with their first blooms for the summer.*

Fertilizer

Bermuda lawns should be fertilized this month with a higher nitrogen, slow-release fertilizer. The goal in June is to create a healthy bermuda lawn that will thrive in the summer heat. Fescue lawns should only receive low nitrogen, root stimulating fertilizer during June to prepare them for the summer heat.

Weed Control

If you subscribe to Hall | Stewart’s Lawn Care Programs and have not skipped any applications this year, your lawn has had two pre-emergent applications. This will provide your lawn with a good barrier to prevent summer annual grassy weeds. But, if not, you may have some grassy weeds, the most common is crabgrass, showing up in your lawn. June is a good month to control grassy weeds while they are still young plants. Once they mature, stronger products will need to be used which can cause turf damage. If nutsedge is making an appearance in your lawn it is best not to pull it. When you pull nutsedge and do not remove the nut below the surface, the plant becomes stressed and multiplies.

Crabgrass is a very fast growing summer annual grassy weed. If you did not get a pre-emergent on your lawn early this year, you are almost certain to have crabgrass growing in your lawn. Treat now with a grassy weed control herbicide. If you wait until July to control, harsh products that will damaged desirable turf will have to be used.

Tree & Shrub Care

The best thing you can do for your trees and shrubs this month is give them your attention. Make it a routine to walk around the landscape looking for plants that just don’t look their best. Most insects are great at camouflage and are hard to spot before you have damaged leaves. Start watching for spider mites. If you notice pale and specked foliage, shake the leaves over a white sheet of paper. If you see tiny specks that start to move, you have spider mites and should schedule a treatment. Be on the watch for bagworms on needle evergreens. When they are young, they are hard to spot. If you notice your evergreens losing color, there is a good chance bagworms are the problem. With all insect and disease issues we subscribe to an integrated pest management approach. With our Tree & Shrub Program, we inspect for issues with each visit. Most problems are easier to control the earlier you notice them. If you notice any issues with your plants, please let us know.

*Bag worms start out small and hard to see. Take time to inspect your needle evergreen shrubs this month.*

*Do your landscape a favor and keep an eye out for bagworms. They are much easier to control when applications are made early.*

*Bagworms start out very small and are hard to see. Take time to inspect your needle evergreens before they cause damage.*

*If you notice pale or speckled foliage on boxwood shrubs, shake a branch over a white paper. If you see tiny specks that start to move, you need to spray for spider mites.*

*As temperatures warm up in June, be on the lookout for aphids.*

Soft scale can be a problem on Redbud trees. A small 1/16-1/8”, reddish, oval scale that is often found on small twigs and can cause small branches to die if not treated. A treatment plan in late winter with a dormant oil with follow-up treatments in late spring and early summer with a horticultural oil is required.

*You can expect to see Black Eyed Susans, a perennial brighten the landscape this month.*

Mowing

Good mowing practices will have the biggest impact on the quality of your lawn over the summer months. For the best summer turf get into a routine of mowing often enough that you only remove 1/3 of the leaf blade with each mowing. For bermuda and zoysia, both warm season turfgrasses, this may require mowing every 4 to 5 days. If you mow this often, don’t bag your clippings. The top 1/3 of the grass leaf is 90% moisture and nutrients. The best summer height for warm season turf is 1.5 – 2.5”. Fescue, cool season turfgrass, will continue to grow rapidly during early June but once we consistently have temperatures in the upper 90’s it will begin to slow down. The best height for cool season turf in the summer is 3.0 – 3.5”. Both warm season and cool season turfs don’t respond well to being cut below their recommended height. Cutting the lawn too short discourages root development and having deep roots going into the summer heat is important for both warm and cool season turf.

One of the biggest concerns we have for fescue lawns going into the warmer days of summer is often they are cut too short. Cool season lawns will do better in the summer heat with more leaf space. If you have a fescue lawn, gradually raise your mower to at least 3” this month. I started mowing my fescue lawn a ½ notch higher in May and will increase it another ½ notch this week.

In every season, always be on the lookout for plants that add interest to the landscape. Orange Rocket Barberry is one that is a little different than your typically Barberry. Orange Rocket is known for its upright, compact growth habit.

*Increase the mowing height on fescue lawns to 3” to 3.5” inches June and maintain that height through the summer.*

*Shasta Daisies, a perennial, will bloom from early June through mid-summer. They make great cut flowers.*

*Who can’t help but fall in love with the lacy blooms of Oakleaf Hydrangeas at this time of year. They are a wonderful contrast to their big leaves.*

*Later this month Mimosa trees will add bright pink, feathery flowers to the landscape.*

*June is the month an old fashion plant, Rose of Sharon, shows us why we should add tried and true plants to our landscapes.*

Shrub Pruning

June is the last month to prune spring blooming shrubs. Spring blooming shrubs start setting flower buds by mid-summer. A few examples of spring blooming shrubs: forsythia, quince, bridal wreath spirea, and azalea. If the shrub is overgrown, use thinning cuts to reduce the size and increase air flow into the center of the plant. Make thinning cuts by removing branches back to the main trunk or another branch. If the shrub only needs a little shaping, make heading cuts near the end of branches. But remember that all shrubs will perform at their best if they are allowed to grow without heavy pruning or shearing.

*Planted in mass Stella D’oro Daylily’s add bright splashes of yellow to the landscape during June.*

*If your Azaleas have become overgrown or need shaping, June is your last chance to prune them before they start setting buds for next spring.*

*Our longest blooming plant, the Crape Myrtle, will start its summer long show this month.*

*Start watching for the Vitex to add purple to the landscape during June.*

Watering

“How much to water” may be one of the most misunderstood aspects of managing a lawn and landscape. Develop the practice of watering based only on need. During the summer months, anytime we get a ½” rain or more, turn your system off for a few days. Depending on afternoon temperatures, a 1” rainfall may save you a week’s worth of water. The converse is true as well. If we go a week without receiving a 1” of rainfall, you need to be watering. Another clue it is time to start watering… when you walk on the lawn, if the grass doesn’t spring back up and your footsteps remain in the lawn, it is time to start watering. Remember, deep soakings are always better than short, frequent watering. Shallow, frequent watering results in lawns with less roots and more dependent on water. Throughout the summer make it a habit to inspect your landscape and adjust. Don’t set your irrigation controller at the beginning of the season, never touching it again until the fall.

Hall | Stewart’s Moisture Retention Program uses Hydretain, a unique root zone moisture management product that reduces the overall watering requirements of lawns and landscapes.

Hydretain advantages -

Maximize soil water availability and reduce irrigation frequency.
Manage soil moisture to help plants withstand periods of drought and watering restrictions.
Reduce water use and water cost.
Maintain a green lawn with less water.
Control or eliminate dry spot problems.
Enhance nutrient uptake.
Non-toxic, safe around pets and children.

*By mid month Limelight Hydrangea and Hibiscus will be adding big blooms to our landscapes.*

Mulch

Add mulch to your landscape plantings this month. A 2” layer of mulch will retain moisture, cool the soil, and reduce weed germination. We prefer premium shredded all bark cedar mulch because it doesn’t float as much and aesthetically looks great. For acid-loving plants such as hydrangeas and azaleas, pecan hulls or pine bark mulch is a great choice.

*Annual color planting of Joseph Coat, Sunpatien, and Marigold make a great yellow/orange color scheme.*

Brown Patch

Be on the lookout for brown patch in your fescue lawn. June is the most active month for this disease in fescue lawns. Anytime nighttime temperatures are 70 plus and the turf remains damp for over 6 hours at a time; brown patch will develop. Areas where there is little air movement and/or heavy shade are more prone because the turf stays wet longer. Brown patch will make the lawn appear it needs more water, but watering will just make it worse. So, before you water more, think about the site, the amount of shade, the air movement in the area, and the amount of moisture the area has received. The best thing you can do if this problem occurs is to stop watering.

One of the most self-inflicted problems with fescue lawns is watering practices that promote the development of brown patch. Always allow your fescue time to dry out between waterings. Avoid watering fescue in the evening during the summer.

*Brown Patch will make fescue look like it needs more water, but the problem is actually the result of the leaf blades staying wet for over 6 hours at a time when nighttime temperatures are in the 70s.*

*There are many varieties of Spirea’s with yellow and green foliage that put on blooms in the early summer.*

*Yarrow is a perennial that produces yellow flowers in late May and early June.*

*Also, Cone Flower, another summer perennial will make a showing in June.*

*Ruby Slippers Oakleaf Hydrangea has large white blooms in the summer that turn to pick as they age.*

*Anthony Waterer Spirea is a medium sized shrub that is covered with pink flowers in late May and early June.*

Aeration

Mechanical aeration is a “best” practice for any lawn. Aeration reduces soil compaction, promotes root development, and thickens the turf. May and June are the best months to aerate bermuda. This one practice will make a significant difference in the quality of your turf. The stronger the turf, the less weed problems you will experience.

*Summer Crush Hydrangeas are a reblooming hydrangea that produces large floral quality blooms in your landscape.*

Insects

Regularly scheduled treatments for fleas & ticks, mosquitos, and perimeter insect control around your house should continue during the summer. The goal is to make outdoor living for your family and pets the best possible.

*Southern Magnolia trees produce large white flowers in early summer. Teddy Bear and Little Gem Dwarf Southern Magnolia are great plants for smaller landscapes.*

*Texas Red Yucca produce tall red flowering spikes this month. There are several varieties. Brakelights Red Yucca is a favorite.*

Awe…may your June be filled with time outside, in your lawn and landscape, on your patio with family and friends, enjoying the beauty every day!

“Summertime, and the living is easy.” Ella Fitzgerald

If you have any questions about your lawn or landscape, send us an email or give us a call. We would love to help you have your best lawn and landscape this summer.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

Lorne Hall 5/24/26 Lorne Hall 5/24/26

More perennials, please!

Over the years I have become more and more fond of using perennials in the landscape.

In the early days of my love for landscapes, I was slow to add perennials because they don’t add color all season and I often felt their foliage was unattractive after the blooms faded. When I did add a few, they always found their home in an out of the way, background location of the landscape.

I still believe annual color is the best choice close to the front door, along the front walks, and key areas around outdoor living spaces. Annual color is the best way to create a bright, welcome and season long statement in the landscape. But, more and more, I find myself adding perennials to landscapes for pops of color throughout the season.

What is the difference between annuals and perennials?

Perennial plants regrow every spring.

Annual plants live for only one growing season and then die.

Perennials usually have a shorter blooming period compared to annuals.

Great landscapes use a combination of both perennials and annuals.

There are so many perennial choices. Every year growers introduce new varieties of the old tried and true perennials. Every year I enjoy trying a perennial I haven’t used in a landscape before.

I have my favorites. Favorites that have found a home in my landscape, and although none of them add color the entire season, it is fun to discover another perennial blooming in the landscape as we pass through the seasons.

It is not possible to cover every perennial and every variety in this email; there are literally thousands of books on perennials. This list is of perennials is just a start, a start at adding splashes of color to your landscape from early spring through fall.

Creeping Phlox (Phlox stolonifera).

The first to welcome spring each year. Creeping phlox produces a spring-like carpet in pastel hues of white, lavender, red and pink. Creeping phlox is a moderate grower that can spread up to 2’ but only reaches 4-6” in height. It prefers full sun but will tolerate some shade each day. Boarders, walls, and around boulders are where it looks best. In my garden you will find it cascading over a rock retaining wall. It tolerates most soils as long as it is well drained. The plant requires little maintenance. Mites are about the only insect problem it will have.

Creeping phlox cascading over any landscape wall is a great way to say “hello” to spring.

Dianthus and Salvia planted along a flagstone walkway.

A must have perennial for cut flowers is Peony. With sturdy stems and spectacular blooms they not make April to early May pretty outside, but inside too.

Dianthus (Dianthus).

It works well as a boarder, in small groupings, around boulders or as a single plant reaching 10-15” tall with a spread of 12-24”. They bloom from late spring to early summer in rose, pink, white, and red. They prefer areas where they will receive at least 6 hours of full sun each day but will tolerate some dappled shade or afternoon shade. Just like creeping phlox, they are a cool season lover. They will grow in most soils, prefer alkaline soils, but waterlogged soil will cause crown and root rot. Heavy mulching near the crown of the plant can be detrimental. Late March through April and into May is the peak bloom time. Light feeding in the spring with a complete fertilizer of phosphorus, potassium and low nitrogen is recommended. Other than an occasional aphid or powdery mildew issue, they do not have many problems. There are more than 300 varieties of dianthus to choose from. My all-time favorite is ‘Firewitch’. It has silver-green foliage and a vibrant pink bloom. One short coming – it is not uncommon for them to thrive for a few years and then gradually decline, so you may need to replant every 3-4 years. I have found this true with the dianthus planted in my front landscape, but at the same time, I have a planting of dianthus in my back landscape that has performed well for nearly 20 years.

Peony (disambiguation) –

Easily one of the most old fashioned, coveted perennials. With sturdy stems and spectacular blooms, a peony is a mut have in your landscape just for cut flowers in late April to early May. Peonies are a large, 2-3’ tall, bushy shape with deeply lobed leaves that make a great back drop for a border of groundcover, smaller plants or spring bulbs.

‘May Night’ Salvia (Salvia x sylvestris).

Sage type flower spikes of deep bluish-purple that will add color in April, May and early June. The best flower show will be in full sun, but it will tolerate a little dappled shade each day. The plant grows 12-18” tall with flower spikes reaching 24”. The plant looks great in the middle of the garden planted behind creeping phlox or dianthus, and in front of Shasta daisy or Black-eyed Susan. The leaves often become tattered later in the summer. Keep faded blooms removed to maximize bloom period and pruning the plants after blooming may result in a few fall blooms. In the early spring, before new growth emerges, remove the dormant foliage. Salvia tolerates clay soils but will struggle with root rot if the soil stays saturated.

With nearly 1,000 species new varieties and colors of salvia arrive every year. For the latest information on salvia introductions, visit Proven Winners https://www.provenwinners.com/learn/how-plant/salvia

*Cutting Salvia back after it has finished blooming for the season.*

From April through early June you can count on May Night Salvia adding deep blue to purple spikes of color to the landscape.

Pink Dianthus, May Night Salvia with Gold Moneywort ground cover.

Daylily (Hemerocallis).

There are over 80,000 varieties of daylily. They come in nearly every color and shade of color you can imagine, ranging 10-36” tall and 12-24” wide. Depending on the variety, blooms start in early summer and extend into late summer with a successive blooming habit that lasts 4-6 weeks. They also are one of the most adaptable plants. They are very cold hardy and very heat tolerant. They are happy in almost every soil condition, clay, loam, dry, wet, low nutrient. They prefer full sun but will bloom in partial shade. With a clump type growth, they are dynamic planted in a mass grouping. Leave dormant foliage until new foliage emerges in the spring. Fertilize in early spring and again in early summer. Clumps can be divided every 3-5 years in the fall. Remove spent flower stocks to encourage more blooms. The most common yellow daylily is ‘Stella de’ Oro’. ‘Pardon Me’ is a great red daylily. Planting daylilies behind liriope (monkey grass) will help cover up the unattractive foliage as it begins to fade in late summer. Look around, daylilies started putting on their early summer show this week.

*Daylily have just started adding color to the early summer landscape.*

**Dianthus and Salvia make a great combination to your May landscape.**

Yarrow (Achillea millefolium).

I’m sure you have noticed yellow yarrow in landscapes for years, but more recently you are seeing red, white, pink and purple tones of yarrow in the landscapes. An early bloomer with ferny foliage that makes a great addition in full sun landscapes. Plant in groups in the front or middle layer of the landscape bed. They are also great in a butterfly garden.

‘Cat’s Pajamas’ Catmint is a long blooming small mounding perennial that is covered with blue flowers from late spring through summer.

catmint (nepeta).

A consistent spring to fall bloomer with spike-like lavender, blue, pink or white flowers on gray-green foliage. Catmint is drought tolerant and actually does well when neglected making it one of the better low-maintenance perennials. Virtually pest and disease free and also deer and rabbit repellent. Known for its mounding growth habit, catmint does well as a border plant, along pathways, or in a mass planting. Catmint grows well in most soils, including clay, but performs best in well drained soil. It enjoys full sun to partial shade.

Shasta Daisy (Chrysanthemum x superbum). Classic daisy appearance of white petals around a yellow center. They grow in clumps 1-2’ wide and 2-3’ tall. Best if planted in fertile soil that drains well. The more sun they receive the more they will blo…

Red Coneflower, Black-eyed Susan and Shasta Daisy

Banana Cream II is an improved variety of Daisy with lemony yellow flowers.

Shasta Daisy (Chrysanthemum x superbum).

Classic daisy appearance of white petals around a yellow center. They grow in clumps 1-2’ wide and 2-3’ tall. Best if planted in fertile soil that drains well. The more sun they receive the more they will bloom. Shasta Daisies start blooming in early summer and can last until early fall. They make great cut flowers. Keeping the faded blooms cut will extend the color show. After the foliage goes dormant in late fall, cut the stems back to 1-2”. They respond well to light fertilizer in the spring. Daisies perform best if they are divided every 3-5 years. Considered as a low maintenance plant, aphids are about the only insect you may see. ‘Becky’ is a favorite variety. A newer addition to the Shata family is Banana Cream II. Proven Winners is a great place to learn more about adding daisies to your landscape. https://www.provenwinners.com/learn/how-plant/shasta-daisy

Black-Eyed Susan (Rudbeckia grandiflora).

Daisy like golden-yellow flower petals surround a dark brown or black center reaching 2-4’ and spreading 2’. The large flower blooms (2-4”) will be arriving in the next few weeks and will continue into July. And, if you keep spent blooms trimmed off, you will get a few blooms in the fall. Plant in sun to partial shade. As a native prairie plant, you will find it to be low maintenance. It tolerates most soils but prefers well drained. Because of its height, plant in the middle of a bed or as a background to lower perennials, such as dianthus or salvia. The plant can be divided every 3-5 years. Remove dormant foliage anytime in the fall or winter. It can develop powdery mildew if in too much shade. Minimal feeding is required. Keep a watch out for occasional aphid problems.

One of the best late summer blooming perennials is Black-eyed Susan.

Because of its height, plant in the middle of a bed or as a background to lower perennials, such as dianthus or salvia. The plant can be divided every 3-5 years. Remove dormant foliage anytime in the fall or winter. It can develop powdery mildew if … — Because of its height, plant in the middle of a bed or as a background to lower perennials, such as dianthus or salvia. The plant can be divided every 3-5 years. Remove dormant foliage anytime in the fall or winter. It can develop powdery mildew if in too much shade. Minimal feeding is required. Keep a watch out for occasional aphid problem.

One of the longer blooming summer perennials is Coneflower.

Coneflower (Echinacea).

A native prairie plant with 2-4” diameter blooms. Coneflowers are highly versatile in color, ranging from traditional purple and pink to white, yellow, orange, red, and green, with many hybrid varieties offering multicolored or changing hues throughout the season. Just like black-eyed susan it reaches 2-4’ in height and spreads out 2-3’ and makes a good show planted in the back or sides of the garden. But it also works well as a single specimen. Plant in sun to partial shade. It is one of the longest summer bloomers with a show that lasts 5-8 weeks. The coarse texture of the leaves makes them well suited near softer-textured plants such as ornamental grasses. It enjoys well-drained, fertile soil. Removing faded flowers will encourage more blooms. Remove dead foliage in the winter. Coneflowers are fairly disease tolerant and responds to feeding early in the growing season and also likes to be mulched.

Hardy Verbena (Verbena).

This low growing (4-6”) spreading (2-3’) perennial thrives in summer heat while producing purple, pink, red or white blooms. Verbena is not picky about soil type but requires full sun. When it gets more than 2-3 hours of shade per day, its biggest problem is powdery mildew disease increases. The low growing nature makes it perfect for the front of beds, along walks and cascading over walls and slopes. It also looks great in pots and window boxes. Good drainage and fertile soils needed and with consistent irrigation blooms and spread will increase. Feed in spring and after the first flush of heavy blooms. Don’t fertilize after July. Verbena likes mulch to insulate roots and hold in moisture. Shearing the plant just below spent blooms will encourage growth and more flowering. My favorite variety is ‘Homestead Purple’.

We think of Garden Mums as fall color, but they also bloom in late spring to early summer. After the early blooms fade shear them back to the shape and height you prefer and then don’t prune on them again after the 4th of July.

Garden Mum (Chrysanthemum x moratorium).

Typically thought of as an annual, but they make a great perennial for fall color with shades of pink, red, white and yellow. Plant height and width are both 1-3’ resulting typically in a round shape. They produce a wonderful burst of color for 2-4 weeks in late September and October. Mums will tolerate light shade but prefer full sun. To survive the winter as a perennial they need moisture and good drainage. Therefore, add an ample amount of compost when planting in our clay soils. Dormant foliage can be removed anytime during the winter or in the spring when new growth emerges. Mums will bloom a little in the spring or early summer. Once the early blooms fade, keep the plant sheared to the shape and height you prefer. Stop shearing after the first of July. When you shear a mum during the last half of the summer, you are removing the flower buds for the fall.

Hosta (Hosta).

Monrovia.com lists over 78 varieties of hosta. This shade to partial sun loving plant is perfect for adding brightness to shady areas. Varieties range in size, but 12-14” tall and 30” wide is common. They prefer organic soil and regular watering when it is hot. Their leafy appearance is a great companion to ground covers. Monrovia calls them “the potato chip of plants…once you have one and watch how it lights up the shade you will want another.” One of my favorites is ‘Patriot’. I dare you to plant just one.

A favorite, Patriot Hosta, is a compact variety with glossy dark green leaves with white edges. It is also more heat tolerant than most varieties.

Fern.

Excellent for shade gardens and damp areas. They require frequent watering, especially in the summer heat. There are many varieties but for most gardens, ones that grow 18-30” with a 24” spread, are best. They are an easy-going plant that adds texture to the landscape. It is a great plant for filling in bare areas in the shade. Matteuccia struthiopteris ‘The King’ is a favorite Ostrich fern.

Coral Bells (Heuchera).

A great shade companion to hosta and caladium, but this perennial will also be happy planted in a little more sun. It makes a great boarder, a mass grouping, or plant a single plant as an accent. There are many varieties with colorful foliage to choose from. ‘Palace Purple’ has deep purple foliage which looks great planted with ‘Patriot’ Hosta.

Coral Bell 'Palace Purple' planted as an accent with fern in a shady raised planter.

Hosta and Coral Bells make a great combination in shady gardens.

The best time to add perennials to your landscape is spring and fall. But you can find success adding perennials most anytime; just avoid the hottest days of the summer and the coldest period of the winter. My favorite time to add perennials is when I am planting my annual color in the spring or fall.

Two great resources for perennials are https://www.provenwinners.com/ and https://www.monrovia.com/plant-catalog/

But an even better way to learn more about perennials is to make a habit of taking monthly walks through the Myriad Garden and Scissortail Park to see what is currently in bloom.

What are your favorite perennials?

We are always on the lookout for new ideas.

Text or email us a few pictures of perennials blooming in your landscape!

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

Lorne Hall 5/17/26 Lorne Hall 5/17/26

3 Keys to a Great Lawn - #2 Maintenance

When it comes to having a great lawn, what is most important?

Lawn care applications?
Maintenance practices?
Environmental conditions?

All three are keys to a great lawn - Lawn Care Applications, Maintenance, and Environmental Conditions.

Great lawns are not a result of getting one, or even two, of the three correct.

Great lawns are equally the result of all three.

Today, we are covering the second - Maintenance. In April, we covered Lawn Care Applications and in June we will visit about how Environmental Conditions impact your lawn.

Maintenance includes all mechanical activities involved in caring for your lawn: Mowing, Aerating, Dethatching, Turf Selection, Soil Test, etc.

Mowing

Mowing by far has the biggest impact on the quality of your lawn.

Think about it. More time will be spent mowing your lawn than any other lawn or landscape activity. If your goal is to have a great lawn, you will make somewhere between 28 to 40 trips across your lawn this year. A well-maintained warm season turf (bermuda, zoysia) will be mowed 28 to 32 times per growing season while a great fescue lawn will be mowed 36 to 40 times.

Cutting height is important.

Cutting too low discourages root growth and reduces the lawn’s ability to withstand extreme temperatures and drought.

Cutting too tall results in a stemmy turf that is more susceptible to scalping.

Bermuda and zoysia should be mowed at 1-2” March through May. As temperatures start to increase in June gradually increase the mowing height to 2-2.5” by mid to late summer and maintain that height through the end of the growing season. If mowing bermuda with a reel type mower, the lawn can be maintained at 1.5” during the summer months.

*Maintain fescue at 3” during the summer months.*

Cutting the lawn shorter in the spring and early summer promotes lateral spread and a tighter turf.

A taller turf in the heat of the year provides a canopy that cools the soil, promotes a deep root system, and provides insulation for low temperatures going into the winter.

Fescue should be mowed at 2.5-3” in the spring March through May. During the heat of the summer, June through September, maintain fescue at 3-3.5”. In the fall as the weather cools returning to 2.5-3” is fine.

A good rule of thumb is to maintain all turf grown in shade at the recommended highest levels or a little taller. This will increase leaf area to compensate for the lower light levels.

*Maintain turf growing in shady areas a little taller. The increased leaf area will compensate for the lower light levels.*

Mowing frequency makes a big difference in the quality of a lawn.

The best lawns are mowed based on growth, not a set schedule. If you hire your lawn mowed, mowing on a set schedule, preferably weekly during the growing season, is typically the practical solution. But, if you mow your own lawn, a big step towards a better lawn is to start mowing based on growth.

The best time to mow is at the point where no more than 1/3 of the leaf area will be removed. For example, if you are trying to maintain your lawn at 2”, the lawn should be mowed before it exceeds 3”. Removing more than 1/3 of the height at one time results in cutting below the leaf and into the stems. Removing all the leaf requires the turf to use nutrients stored in the roots to generate new leaves followed by putting energy into storing more nutrients. Scalping into the stems starts a growing cycle that is not optimal for having a great lawn.

Mulch mowing vs bagging your clippings is one of the best things you can do for your lawn.

An added benefit of mowing often enough that no more than 1/3 of the leaf blade is removed at a time is you don’t need to bag your clippings. Leaf blades are mostly water and nitrogen. Every time you remove your clippings you are throwing away valuable moisture and nutrients.

*Mow often and don’t bag your clippings. Mulch mow and return nutrients to the soil. Your lawn will thank you.*

*When mulch mowing, a few clippings are ok. They will break down quickly and return nutrients and moisture to the soil.*

*But, if you are like me, you like a neat and clean lawn when you are finished mowing. So, use your blower to distribute any noticeable clippings.*

*Varying your mowing pattern will reduce soil compaction and give your lawn a professional appearance.*

Keep mower blades sharp.

Dull blades bruise leaf tips, reduce growth, and causes a dull-cast appearance over the turf due to frayed leaf blades.

Vary the mowing pattern.

Mowing the same direction 30-40 times per year will create unnecessary soil compaction. Lawns look better when two or three mowing patterns are rotated through.

Aerating

We talk about aerating a lot. Why? The overwhelming common factor of our best lawns is annual aeration.

Aerating is the process of taking small cores out of the lawn with a mechanical core aerator. Aeration reduces compaction and improves the soil structure by improving air, nutrient, and water movement to the root zone. Cores should be left on the lawn and allowed to break down. Gradually the holes created by the aerator are filled in with loose soil from the cores creating pockets for root development. Aerating also reduces thatch.

Bermuda should be aerated any time after spring green up through early summer, April through mid-July.

The best time to aerate fescue is in the fall, September through October.

Aeration will take a lawn from good to great!

Dethatching

Thatch is the undecomposed roots and stems of the turf. Excessive thatch, more than ½,” impedes the flow of water, air, and nutrients into the soil. Lawns with excessive thatch are shallow rooted and therefore are less drought and heat tolerant.

Bermuda lawns are more prone to excessive thatch than fescue. The best time to remove excessive thatch is in the early spring, late February to early March, before the lawn greens up. The best tool to use is a power rake, also known as a dethatcher.

Important note – Lawns that are aerated at least every other year rarely have excessive thatch problems. If your lawn has a moderate amount of thatch, we recommend aeration as a preventative step to dethatching.

Turf Selection

Light is a basic requirement of turfgrass growth and is often the limiting factor in good turf development. All plants, including turf grass, have a minimum light requirement.

Bermuda prefers 8 hours of direct sunlight for optimal growth.
Zoysia will grow well in a little less light but still needs 6 hours of direct sunlight.
For any areas with less than 5 hours of direct sunlight, fescue is the best option.

We all tend to underestimate the amount of shade our trees, shrubs, buildings, and fences cast on our lawns.

*Lawn areas that receive only dappled sun are best planted in fescue.*

Over the course of the growing season take time to observe shade patterns in your landscape and make a plan for any areas with too little direct sunlight to support a thick lawn.

Zoysia is best established from sod and can be installed throughout the season.

Fescue does well established from seed. The best time to establish fescue from overseeding is in September or October. There is a second opportunity in March. But fall is by far the best time because as a cool season grass, it will have more time to establish a strong root system for the summer heat.

During April and May, establishing fescue from sod is best. Avoid sodding fescue during the summer heat.

Soil Test

When a lawn isn’t growing well, has poor color, looks sickly, and doesn’t respond as expected to fertilizer, a soil test should be done.

There are 13 essential mineral elements in soil. Their availability to be used by turfgrass is based on soil pH. Between pH of 6.0 and 7.0, all essential soil elements are available for optimal turfgrass growth. A soil test will determine if lime is needed to raise the pH or if sulfur is needed to lower the pH.

Fill a quart sized plastic bag with soil from 10-12 random places in your lawn. Using a spade take soil from 2-6” below the surface. Remove roots from the soil. Take the soil sample to your local Oklahoma State University County Extension Office. They will test the soil and send you a report for a nominal fee. The Oklahoma County office is located at 2500 NE 63rd St., Oklahoma City, OK 73111.

Or, give us a call and we will gather a sample and take it to the lab for you.

Just like Lawn Care Applications, Maintenance activities by themselves will not fix all your lawn problems.

But, without proper maintenance activities, lawn care applications will not be as effective.

We look forward to continuing the conversation of the three keys to a great lawn next month when we discuss how the environment impacts your efforts to have a beautiful lawn.

If you are subscribing to a Hall | Stewart Lawn Care Program, good maintenance practices are a key to getting the most out of our lawn care applications.

If you have any questions, please let us know. We enjoy visiting with you about your lawn.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

Lorne Hall 5/10/26 Lorne Hall 5/10/26

Spring Dead Spot – Oklahoma’s #1 Turf Disease

Oklahoma is in the transition zone.

What is the transition zone?

It is the zone between where warm season turf grows best and the zone where cool season turf grows best.

Warm Season Turfs: Bermuda Grass and Zoysia Grass.

Cool Season Turfs: Fescue Grass, Rye Grass, Blue Grass

The transition zone is an overlapping area where warm season grasses do well in the heat of the summer while cool season grasses do well in the spring and the fall, and some cool season grasses, such as tall fescue, continue to do well through most summers.

The transition zone is the area where you can’t go wrong growing either warm season grasses or cool season grasses.

Developing and maintaining a great warm season turf can be a challenge in the transition zone where winter temperatures often get colder than warm season grasses prefer and where it is common for an April freeze to stunt warm season turf green-up.

Consistently warming soil temperatures are critical for bermuda to exit dormancy and become active.

Even though spring green-up of bermuda came early this year soil temperatures still have not consistently reached the point that bermuda lawns are at the summer best. Challenging areas remain. Lawns with partial shade, where soil temperatures lag, are trying to catch up. Thin turf areas and lawns with weak root systems, are also lagging behind.

Our goal each week is to discuss the things we encounter while visiting lawns and landscapes. This time of year, as the warm season lawns are greening up, we get a lot of calls about dead spots in Bermuda lawns.

“What are all the circular dead spots in bermuda lawns?”

Is it grubs?

Is it damage caused by a weed killer?

These are common assumptions, but they are neither.

It is a disease…Spring Dead Spot.

Spring Dead Spot is widespread in Oklahoma and holds the title as the number one disease of bermuda lawns in the region. You can count on there always being some Spring Dead Spot, but some springs the disease is worse than others. When the fall, winter and spring conditions are right for Spring Dead Spot, any bermuda lawn in our region has the potential to be a host for the disease.

Let’s look at the history, symptoms, disease cycle, causes, and possible solutions for preventing and controlling this mysterious bermudagrass disease.

Spring Dead Spot patches will begin to develop grow of healthy grass in the patch after a couple of years. — *Spring Dead Spot patches will begin to grow healthy grass in the patch after a couple of years.*

History

Spring Dead Spot has been a problem for a long time. The first case was discovered in Oklahoma in 1936 by a golf course superintendent following a harsh Oklahoma winter.

By the 1950s the unknown disease had become so prevalent in our state that Oklahoma State University plant pathologists began simply referring to the disease as Spring Dead Spot.

In the 1960s the disease became so widespread in suburban Atlanta lawns, particularly hybrid bermuda, that the University of Georgia launched a research program. After three years of research the university still didn’t know the cause and never could get the disease to reproduce in test plots.

In more recent years Oklahoma State University has focused research on the disease. What they have found is that the disease is tough to eradicate, tough to manage, and unpredictable.

Symptoms

Spring Dead Spot makes an appearance in the spring with ugly, rounded, bleached white dead spots in bermuda lawns. The spots range in size from a few inches to a few feet in diameter. If you dig up the roots in the area, they will appear black and rotting.

Damaged patches tend to recur in the same spots year after year. After a couple of years, the center of the spots will begin to develop a patch of healthy turf.

Spring Dead Spot typically isn’t active in newer lawns. It is common for it to first make an appearance 3 or 4 years into a new lawn. And just as strangely, the disease often becomes less active after a few years. All this just adds to the mystery of the disease.

This coincides with my experience: the disease is more common in newer neighborhoods and rarely found in older established areas of the city.

Because the pathogen causes rotting of the roots, rhizomes and stolons, the susceptibility to winter injury increases in the affected areas. The colder the winter or the harsher the April freeze, the more spring dead spot damage we see.

A better example of healthy turf grass growing in the Spring Dead Spot patch after a couple of years. — *An example of healthy bermuda grass growing in the middle of a Spring Dead Spot patch.*

Disease Cycle

In Oklahoma, the disease becomes active starting in September as soil temperatures begin to cool and reach 70 degrees and remains active through the winter if soil temperatures stay above 50 degrees.

Recovery starts in the late spring and continues through the summer as healthy turf around the Spring Dead Spot area grows into the damaged area.

Because the damaged spot often doesn’t have time to completely heal and develop strong roots, the same spots reappear each spring. Research shows the spots can reappear in the spring because of freeze damage even if the disease isn’t active that year.

Causes

The most serious Spring Dead Spot outbreaks occur in highly managed bermuda, often hybrid types. It is a common problem on turf that receives heavy nitrogen fertilizer applications, mowed at low settings, and receives frequent foot traffic.

The spring dead spot fungus attacks the roots, rhizomes, and stolons of bermudagrass during the fall and winter. This activity does not directly kill the plant but instead makes the bermudagrass more susceptible to freezing injury. As a result, spring dead spot is most severe in the northern range of bermudagrass adaptation and is usually more severe after extremely cold winters.

Any factor that restricts bermudagrass root growth increases its susceptibility to Spring Dead Spot:

Turfgrass that receives excessive late-season applications of nitrogen to extend green color are more prone to the development of Spring Dead Spot.
Potassium deficiencies.
Poor soil drainage.
Soil compaction.

Cultural Practices for Spring Dead Spot Management

No single management practice will provide complete control of Spring Dead Spot. The best prevention and control of Spring Dead Spot comes from practices that promote a dense turf and a healthy root system. Because the disease is more prevalent in tight compacted soils, which often have poor root systems, annual aeration is important as it will promote a healthy root system and lessen the probability of the disease.

Although the impact of soil pH is unclear on the development of Spring Dead Spot, an annual soil test to ensure the correct pH is maintained will encourage plant vigor and reduce turf stress.

Recovery improves with a fertilizer routine that ensures the lawn will receive 3 to 5 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet during the growing season with the first application being made in April to May as soil temperatures consistently rise.

Applications of more than .5 pounds of nitrogen after September 15 must be avoided. Some research shows that heavier applications of potassium in the fall promotes winter hardiness. Others believe soils in our region already contain sufficient potassium if the soil pH is near neutral.

The desire to have a green and actively growing bermuda lawn as long into the fall as possible may be the most common practice that leads to the development of Spring Dead Spot.

If you have small areas of the disease in your lawn, the best solution is to remove the soil in the damaged area to a depth of 12” and replace it with new soil.

Raising the mower height going into September will increase the leaf surface resulting in higher levels of carbohydrate reserves in the roots. The result will be more insulation for winter temperatures.

*Spring Dead Spot after a few seasons of recovery.*

Chemical Management

A fungicide applied in the fall as soon as soil temperatures fall to 70 degrees followed by a second application in 30 days may result in control of the disease. It is important to commit to two applications as research shows a single application is generally not effective. Spring applications of fungicides are not as effective as the disease is not active in the spring.

Keep in mind fungicide results can be inconsistent from year to year. Control through fungicides requires a 2-to-4-year commitment for consistent results.

Prevention and control of Spring Dead Spot can be tricky.

The disease can be very frustrating.

Everyone wants their turf to look the best, and if you have a bermuda lawn, there is always the chance Spring Dead Spot will make an appearance.

If you are experiencing Spring Dead Spot, keep in mind the best recovery occurs over time and with warmer temperatures. Don’t give up!

Commit - To best maintenance practices, including aeration, to develop a thick turf with a healthy root system.

Most Critical - Avoid the temptation to promote late season growth.

Remove & Replace Soil – The best solution is to remove 12” of soil in the affected areas and replace it with new soil.

Schedule - A fall fungicide treatment plan.

If you have more questions about Spring Dead Spot, or any other lawn care issue, please give us a call.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

*The best way to repair small areas of Spring Dead Spot is to remove the damaged soil to the depth of 12” and replace with fresh soil.*

Lorne Hall 5/3/26 Lorne Hall 5/3/26

May Lawn & Landscape Tips

May, the month that your lawn, your landscape and your life transition from spring to summer.

May, a month of pleasant evenings and gradually warming days.

May, another wonderful month to spend outdoors enjoying your lawn and landscape.

May, the month the green of lawns becomes deeper, and the colors of flowers become brighter.

May, the month your attention turns toward summer trips and activities.

Hold on… it’s not summer yet and there are several important lawn and landscape tasks to get your lawn and landscape ready for summer.

*The showy Forest Pansy Redbuds have a brilliant reddish-burgundy tone in May.*

*The tried and true ‘Stella de Oro’ Daylily will start adding splashes of color this month.*

Turf Fertilizer

Bermuda lawns need a good feeding between late April and the end of May. Bermuda will respond well to a balanced fertilizer with at least 28% to 30% nitrogen and only a small amount of phosphorus and potassium. Fescue turf also needs to receive one more fertilizer application to get them ready for warm days of summer. Once we consistently reach summer time temperatures fertilizing fescue will do more harm than good.

Weed Control

Weeds that were not prevented, both grassy and broadleaf weeds, require additional treatment to control. Now that warm season turf is actively growing, control of weeds can be stepped up. During May, it is best to spot spray any persistent perennial weeds, being careful to limit turf damage. Remember the absolute best weed control is thick and healthy turf.

*Nutsedge started showing up in lawns early this year and in the right growing conditions it will continue to grow through May.*

Nutsedge typically shows up in lawns in May, but this year it started in April. Because there isn’t a way to prevent nutsedge, spot treatments can be expected. If nutsedge has been a chronic problem in your lawn, annual aeration will make a difference. Nutsedge thrives in tight, wet soils and since aeration reduces compaction, we find yards that are aerated annually have less nutsedge issues.

*Maynight Salvia, the perfect name for the perennial that adds bright blues and purples to the May landscape.*

*So many perennials burst to life in May, one is the Shasta Daisy.*

Anytime we make an application of weed control or fertilizer, please let us know if you have any concerns 10-14 days after our visit. If the turf isn’t greening up properly, or if weeds are not wilting, we want to know. If you are new to our program, we know it will take time to get your lawn to the healthy condition you desire. But we expect to make progress with each visit. We know this may require additional visits and if you are on our full 7- Step Program, we will make the needed extra visits.

*Oakleaf Hydrangeas will start gracing the landscape with their white blooms this month.*

Tree & Shrub Care

We subscribe to an integrated pest management approach. When it comes to insects and disease you always have to be on the lookout. Take a few minutes each week to inspect your landscape for insects and disease.

Spider Mites – During the summer months when it is hot and dry, we are on the watch for spider mites, the Two-spotted Spider Mite. But there is also the Spruce Spider Mite that is active in the spring and fall. They can be found on spruce, pines, junipers and arborvitae. It can cause considerable damage early in the season before we are even thinking about spider mites. The first indication of the Spruce Spider Mite damage is off-green color needles. Spider mites are not controlled by normal insecticides. If you try to control them yourself, you must use a product labeled as a miticide. Insecticides will not control spider mites.

*The first indication of Spruce Spider Mite damage is an off-green color on your spruce, pine, juniper or arborvitae.*

Bagworms - May is the month to be watching for bagworms on needle evergreens. Bagworms are quite easy to control when they are small. But they are very hard to see when they first start to develop. If you notice bagworms, or have a concern about your plants, please let us know.

Spider mites are small and almost impossible to see on the plant. If you are concerned you have spider mites, shake the plant over a white sheet of paper. If the little specks start moving they are spider mites.

*Be on the lookout for bagworms this month. They are much easier to control when they are small.*

Leaf Spot - Leaf spots disease increases in May when it is common to have sufficient moisture and temperatures are just right for development of the fungus. The best host for leaf spot is an already unhealthy plant in an area with poor air circulation. Control includes spraying with a fungicide at least two times in a 10–14-day period, keeping fallen leaves picked up and disposed of, and thinning the tree or shrub to improve air flow.

Aphids – A small insect that isn’t easy to spot, but the honeydew, sticky substance they excrete is easy to spot. Aphids develop on the underside of leaves, often reaching large populations before you notice them. Early detection is important, and if caught early, a high-pressure blast of water may do the trick. As the weather warms, populations increase, and insecticide treatment will be needed.

*Looking to add interest you summer shade garden? Impatiens (annual) will add a splash of color while Coral Bells and Hostas (perennials) will add a richness to the garden.*

Lawn Maintenance

Both warm and cool season turf grasses need frequent mowing now. One of the most important things for good turf health is to avoid removing more than 1/3 of the grass in one mowing. Not only does it not yield you the best-looking lawn when you cut below the leaf and into the stem of the grass, it also weakens the root system. Try to maintain your bermuda on the middle setting or just below the middle setting in May. For fescue, raise the setting one notch this month and cut the lawn 2.5-3” tall. By early June it is best to have fescue at a maximum height going into the summer.

*When mowing frequently, only remove 1/3 of the grass, don’t bag the clippings. Mulch them back onto the lawn. Grass leaf blades are mostly nitrogen and water and are very beneficial to the lawn.*

*Dianthus is a perennial that graces the May landscape with vibrant blooms and gray and green foliage.*

*May Night Salvia, Dianthus and Gold Moneywort make a colorful combination in the May landscape.*

*Full sun planting of lantana, penta, angelonia, and sunpatiens.*

*Fescue color is at its best this month.*

*Lantana and Sun Coleus make a great summer combination in full sun, hot areas. May is the month to plant them.*

Seasonal Color

If you haven’t planted your summer color yet, May is the month to get it done. Most landscapes look best with a splash of bright color creating a welcoming environment near the front door. Impatiens and Caladiums are great choices for full shade areas. Begonias, petunias, and geraniums do well in sun to part shade. And for full sun, periwinkle, lantana, sunpatiens, angelonia, sun coleus and penta are good at handling the heat.

*Clematis vines produce an abundance of showy flowers starting this month and continuing into the summer.*

*Take into consideration the mature size when planting seasonal color. The temptation is to over plant.*

Irrigation

Even though we haven’t received a good rainfall in the past 10 days, April delivered on the promise of “April showers” with the metro averaging 4.25” through the month. May is another month that both your lawn and landscape, as well as your bank account, will benefit from monitoring rainfall and adjusting your irrigation system. Assuming normal temperatures in the 80’s, your lawn and landscape require 1” of water per week in May. Anytime we receive a ½” or more rainfall, put your system on a rain delay or simply turn it off for a few days. The best irrigation management is one that includes keeping an eye on rainfall, soil moisture, and temperatures.

If you have subscribed to our Irrigation Management program with the Rainbird Wi-Fi Link, we will make watering decisions based on soil temperatures, soil moisture, temperatures, and recent rainfall and adjust your controller via the Rainbird app.

Moisture Retention

Tired of high-water bills during the summer months? Hall | Stewart has a solution for you, Moisture Retention. The program includes two applications (April-May & July-August) of a unique root zone moisture management product that reduces the overall watering requirements of your lawn and landscape resulting in less frequent watering. For more details give us a call or spend a few minutes visiting our post from April 5th.

*Endless Summer Hydrangeas will produce their first blooms this month.*

*Oakleaf Hydrangeas are adding flower buds now that will grace the landscape later this month with large white blooms.*

Hydrangea Pruning

Surprisingly, most hydrangeas handled the 100+ hours below freezing in late January well and started budding early due to the spring-like February weather only to be set back by mid-March’s hard freeze. Slowly over the last 30 days they started putting on new buds again. If you haven’t already, now is the time to prune the brown stems. In most cases this is the only pruning recommended for hydrangeas. During the summer, if you want to you can snip off spent blooms, but it is not required. Otherwise, keep the pruners and shears away from your hydrangeas. And…never prune in the fall. Need more information on hydrangea care, visit our recent post on hydrangeas.

*Last year, I added a Summer Crush Hydrangea to my landscape. I’m anxiously awaiting the first blooms of the season in late May.*

If you have any questions, please drop us an email or give us a call at (405)367-3873.

Our mission is to help you have your best lawn and landscape…

one that improves the appearance, enjoyment and value of your surroundings.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

*Remove the brown stems on your hydrangeas left from the winter back to the first bud this mont.*

Azalea Care

Azaleas were stunning again this spring. Azaleas require a little more care, but they are worth it. Fertilize azaleas this month. After blooms fade and before the end of June prune azaleas if needed. Pruning after mid-summer will result in less blooms next year. Azaleas look best when minimally pruned and allowed to retain their natural shape. Prune by removing longer shoots by reaching down and making cuts where they come off a larger branch. This will improve air moment and promote healthy growth. Avoid shearing azaleas. Add a fresh layer of mulch to keep the soil cooler and retain moisture during the warm summer months to come. The best mulch for azaleas is pecan hulls or pine bark.

*Oakleaf Hydrangeas add graceful white blooms to the landscape in May.*

*Gold Mound Spirea not only add interest to the landscape with their foliage, they also deliver an additional touch of color with red-violet blooms this month.*

Lorne Hall 4/26/26 Lorne Hall 4/26/26

The Epic Summer Battle: Outdoor Fun vs The Mosquitoes. Coming Soon to Your Backyard!

Springtime…occasional rains, warming temperatures, green lawns, blooming landscapes, and the desire to be outside enjoying our wonderful world.

Awe, the makings of a perfect world…

And it could very well be a perfect world if it wasn’t for one problem… Mosquitoes!

4 Key Ingredients for Increased Mosquito Activity:

Heavy spring and summer rainfall.
Warm and humid weather patterns.
Stagnate water.
Unresolved drainage issues.

The size and intensity of the mosquito population from

year to year is dictated by the amount of moisture,

both rainfall and stagnate water, in the environment.

The key to enjoying our lawns and landscapes more this spring, summer and fall is understanding the life of a mosquito, what you can do to win the battle, and how a mosquito control program can help you win the battle.

Hall | Stewart believes in an integrated pest management (IPM) approach to mosquito control. Success is equally the result of prevention and reduction.

The life of a mosquito

The mosquito life cycle consists of four stages: egg, larva, pupa, and adult. The first three stages of their life are spent in water. Only adult mosquitoes live outside of water.

Egg Stage: Female mosquitoes lay eggs the surface of still water or a surface that is saturated. Any place where water is standing or is too wet is an invitation for a mosquito to lay eggs.

Larval Stage: The eggs hatch into larvae which live and feed on microorganisms in the water.

Pupa Stage: After the larval stage, the mosquito develops into a pupa . Pupae are comma-shaped and float on the water's surface, breathing through "trumpets."

Adult Stage: The adult mosquito emerges from the pupal case and rests on the water's surface while its wings dry and harden. Once ready, the male and female mosquitoes will then look for food and mates.

Adult females are the only mosquitoes that bite. They typically attack in the evening but occasionally are out during the day. Most afternoons you will find them resting in shrubs, trees and other shady areas.

After a female mosquito has obtained blood meal from a person or animal, they lay their eggs in water or a moist area where their eggs will receive sufficient moisture to hatch.

Typically, an adult mosquito doesn’t fly higher than 10-15’ and don’t venture more than a mile from where life began.

The entire life cycle from egg, to larva, to pupa, to adult, and back to an egg again only takes 4-5 weeks.

The mosquito life cycle repeats itself over and over starting in March and continuing until the first frost in November.

What you can do to win the battle

Mosquito control is everyone’s responsibility when it comes to removing and eliminating larval breeding sites. All standing water is a desirable breeding ground for mosquitoes.

With mosquitoes spending three of their four stages of life dependent on standing water. Anywhere water accumulates from bird baths, flowerpots, toys, poor draining gutters, a perfect playground for the insect.

The first step in mosquito control is to remove any standing water –

pots, gutters, birdbaths, poor draining lawn areas, etc.

From March through November, any object containing 5–7-day old water is a potential playground for the pest. Even pet bowls can be a breeding ground for mosquitoes. Drain and refill pet bowls and bird baths every 3-5 days at the minimum.

KEY POINT: Routinely remove standing water.

Mosquitoes won’t lay eggs unless there is water.
Their eggs won’t hatch unless there is water.
The egg won’t become a larva unless there is water.
The larva won’t become pupa unless there is water.

Less standing water equals less mosquitoes.

Adult females are the only mosquitoes that bite. They typically attack in the evening, but occasionally are out during the day. Most afternoons you will find them resting in shrubs, trees and other shady areas. After they obtain blood meal from a person or animal they lay their eggs in water or a place where it will get wet. They prefer dark colored containers and shaded areas for egg laying.

What Hall | Stewart can do to help you win the battle

Barrier treatments are the most effective and proven method for managing pests. A barrier can be made by treating all vegetation, shrubs and trees, from the ground up to a height of 10-15’.

Because adult mosquitoes often rest in the shade of plants, insecticides must be applied to both the top and bottom of plant leaves which is difficult to achieve with a traditional pump-up, handheld spray can.

Power backpack misters are the ideal equipment for barrier treatments as they force droplets into the vegetation and underneath leaves. Other common resting sites, such as under decks, gutters, and other moist shady areas are included in the treatment areas.

Hall | Stewart’s Mosquito Control Program uses two control methods:

An insecticide is used to provide an initial a quick kill and residual control of adult mosquitoes.
A larvicide is used to adversely affect the reproductive cycle of the mosquitoes by preventing larval development resulting in fewer adult mosquitoes.

Due to the short life cycle of mosquitoes, regularly scheduled monthly barrier treatments will provide a significant reduction in the number of insects.

Landscapes with an abundance of cool, shady and moisture areas benefit from the use of mosquito traps and mosquito buckets. If this describes your landscape setting, let’s visit how a more advanced process of mosquito control can help.

The battle is a team effort. You can win by reducing the breeding grounds for mosquitoes and by subscribing to the Hall | Stewart Mosquito Control Program.

We want you to have peace of mind when it comes to outdoor enjoyment this summer.

If you have not already subscribed to our Mosquito Control Program, call (405)367-3873 or respond to this email.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

Lorne Hall 4/12/26 Lorne Hall 4/12/26

3 Keys to a Great Lawn -- #1 Lawn Care Applications

When it comes to having a great lawn, what is most important?

Lawn care applications?
Maintenance practices?
Environmental conditions?

All three are keys to a great lawn - Lawn Care Applications, Maintenance, and Environmental Conditions.

Great lawns are not a result of getting one, or even two, of the three correct.

Great Lawns are the result of all three.

Discussing the three keys to a great lawn is too much for one writing, so we are going to cover each key separately.

Today, we will cover Lawn Care Applications.

Next month, we will dedicate a post to how proper Maintenance impacts your lawn.

In June, we will discuss the impact Environmental Conditions have on the greatness of your lawn.

Lawn care applications are comprised of two components, fertilizer & weed control.

Fertilizer Applications – Healthy turf is the best prevention of weeds.

Weed control and fertilizer work hand-in-hand to produce a great lawn. Common weed problems are less in an actively growing, fertilized, watered, well maintained and healthy turf.

A healthy, properly fertilized, dense turfgrass can resist weed invasion and is more resilient to extreme heat, cold, and drought.

The three key ingredients in fertilizer are nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. All three are needed by your turf.

Nitrogen gives a lawn the best quality of color and density, but it is void in our soil. Therefore, it needs to be added the most.

Phosphorus and potassium are required for healthy turf growth but because they are present in our soil they do not need to be replaced as much.

Both bermuda and fescue are at their best when they receive a total of 4 to 5 lbs. of nitrogen per 1,000 sq. ft during the growing season spaced out over 4-5 applications. They just need fertilizer at different times of the season.

Bermuda, being a warm season grass, needs to be fed the most during the summer. The first application should be made within 2 to 6 weeks of spring green up. An application before the lawn has come out of dormancy is a waste of product and does not benefit the turf. The last application should be made by the end of September. Heavy fall fertilizer in an attempt to force growth and color deep into the fall can be a contributor to spring dead spot. Want to learn more about Spring Dead Spot?

Bermuda, warm season turf, looks best through the summer heat when nighttime temperatures are consistently 65+. Bermuda respond well to regularly scheduled fertilizer applications, high in nitrogen during the summer.

Fescue, a cool season turf requires a completely different schedule and thought process. Cool season grass is at its peak in the spring and fall. During the summer, growth slows, and the plant actually enters a period of semi-dormancy even though it never actually loses all its color.

Cool season turf needs fertilizer between the first of March and the end of May. This creates a strong healthy turf with the best opportunity of surviving the summer heat. High nitrogen fertilizer June through August can damage fescue. In the fall, September through November, resume fertilizer applications.

Fertilizing fescue in the summer will always lead to disappointment.

Fescue, a cool season grass, looks best in the spring and fall. Fescue lawns need the same amount of annual fertilizer as Bermuda, but it must be applied in the spring and fall. Fertilizer during the summer will damage a fescue lawn.

Weed Control Applications - Correct Timing of Weed Control Applications is Important

Three things you need to know about weeds:

*Mature weeds are slower to respond to herbicides. Once a weed starts producing flowers they slow growth and don’t take in herbicides as quickly.*

First - Knowing weed life cycle is important when it comes to prevention and control.

Annual weeds germinate from seed, grow and flower (produce seed) all within one year.
Perennial weeds continue to grow year after year increasing in both size and root.

Second - Identifying the type of weed, are either broadleaf or grassy, is equally important.

Broadleaf weeds are the easiest to spot because they look very different from grass. Broadleaf weeds have a stem with leaves attached.
Grassy weeds are actually undesired grass that grow as one single leaf. Grassy weeds are similar to turf grass. Often, they are not as noticeable when they are small but will destroy the aesthetics of a lawn as they mature.

Third – Weeds are either winter weeds or summer weeds.

With annual weeds there is a correct time to prevent and with perennial weeds there is a best time to control.

Annual weeds are easiest to prevent, but they can be very difficult to control when mature.

Your lawns’ best chance to be clean in the winter and springis by applying the fall pre-emergents.

Your lawns’ best chance to be clean in the summer and fall is by applying the spring pre-emergents.

*Mature crabgrass is much harder to control during the growing season.*

*Because crabgrass and other summer annual weeds will continue to germinate through the summer, a late pre-emergent application is better than no pre-emergent at all.*

Crabgrass, a summer annual grassy weed, is very easy to prevent with a pre-emergent applied in before soil temperatures reach 55 degrees. It is also easy to control when it is in the first stage of growth. This picture was taken this week and is the first crabgrass I have seen this year.

*Most weeds littering lawns in the spring, such as henbit, can easily be prevented with fall pre-emergent herbicides.*

*A well timed lawn care program will result in your best lawn.*

*Persistence is a key to gaining control of weeds. Between keeping the area mowed and spraying with herbicides, control can be gained.*

Winter annuals are prevented with a pre-emergent herbicide in late summer and fall. Summer annual weeds are prevented in the late winter and spring. Timing is the key to both. For the best results, the pre-emergent needs to be applied before the weeds germinate.

To prevent summer annual weeds an application must be made before soil temperatures reach 55 degrees for three consecutive days, which is typically in mid-March.
To prevent winter annual weeds an application must be made before the first cool spell occurs in late September to early October.

Commonly asked question: “Is it too late to start a lawn care program this year?”

No, it is never too late to start. Weeds will continue to germinate all summer. Turf development is important during the growing season. Starting a lawn care program at any point during the season is better than not starting at all.

Effective prevention of annual weeds is enhanced when a second pre-emergent application is made 45-75 days after the first application. Pre-emergent herbicides have a life. Depending on conditions, the product used and the quality of the application, pre-emergent herbicides will last 60 to 120 days. A second application creates a season long barrier of weed prevention.

*When a weed is actively growing it absorbs herbicides much quicker. Once a weed begins flowering growth slows as it focuses on reproduction. During this stage weed control is possible, but slower.*

*Nutsedge is one of the difficult to control weeds that often requires additional treatments.*

A proactive approach to weed control is two timely pre-emergent herbicide applications to prevent summer annual weeds and two timely applications to prevent winter annual weeds.

Hall | Stewart Lawn Care Programs, both our most popular 7-Step Weed Control & Fertilizer Program and our 4-Step Weed Control Only Program, include 4 pre-emergent herbicide applications each year, two in the spring and two in the fall.

But, not all weeds can be prevented. Existing weeds and perennial weeds require post emergent weed control applications.

The key to controlling perennial weeds and mature annual weeds is applying the right herbicide at the right time and the willingness to make follow-up applications when required.

Post Emergent Weed Control Takes Persistence

*Poa annua, a winter annual grassy weed, thrives in thin turf.*

*The best defense against weeds is a healthy thick turf.*

The best post emergent weed control is to never need it!

A properly maintained lawn, with good watering practices, healthy soil, deep roots, and timely pre-emergent applications in the spring and fall may never need to have harsher post-emergent herbicides applied.

But, until a dense, healthy weed free turf is achieved, fall (October-November) is the best time to control winter broadleaf weeds when they are small and actively growing. Spring (April-May) is the best time to control summer broadleaf weeds.

Post-emergent weed control is always more difficult when the weed is mature and flowering. Herbicides work by translocating through the plant. When a weed is actively growing, it absorbs the product quickly. Once the weed starts to flower (seed), it slows growth and focuses on reproduction. During this stage, control is much slower.

Difficult to control weeds, such as nutsedge, violets, geraniums to name a few, take time to gain 100% control. Follow-up applications are often needed. Persistence is the key.

Hall | Stewart Lawn Care Programs include follow-up visits when needed to gain control of difficult weeds.

Great lawns are the result of a properly timed weed control and fertilizer program that is tailored to your type of grass.

If you are not currently subscribing to a Hall | Stewart Lawn Care Program and have struggled with getting the critical timing right on your lawn, we would enjoy visiting with you.

If you are a Hall | Stewart customer, we look forward to every opportunity to be on your lawn helping you have a great lawn!

Next month –

Three Keys to a Great Lawn

#2 - Maintenance Practices

How cultural management and routine maintenance play a critical role in achieving a great lawn.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

Lorne Hall 4/12/26 Lorne Hall 4/12/26

The Masters & Tips on Growing Azaleas in Central Oklahoma

This was a bucket list kind of week!

Wednesday morning at 5:30 AM, I was standing in the crisp morning air a few yards outside the north gate of Augusta National eagerly awaiting the 7:00 AM opening of the Masters.

The line was full of “bucket list checking” golf fans anticipating their day at one of the most coveted events in all of golf. For the over 40,000 patrons, Wednesday at The Masters, it was their chance to spend the morning watching a favorite golfer on the final day of practice and take in the afternoon Par 3 contest.

But, for me, it was a chance to spend the day walking the best maintained landscape I have ever set foot on. Yes, I enjoyed watching Scottie Scheffler play through Amen Corner. And yes, all the while, I secretly wishing I was standing in the middle of the fairway asking questions of the turf professionals in charge of creating such an immaculate turf. Through the day questions kept coming to mind I wish I could ask the turf pros, questions about their mowing practices, questions about how often they aerate, questions about their irrigation techniques, questions about the herbicides, about the fertilizer…..All day long, the questions never stopped running through my mind.

Excellence is inspiring.

Witnessing the world’s best golfers practice their craft is inspiring.

Walking turf so perfect that at times you thought “this can’t be real” is inspiring. (I actually overheard one patron telling another patron the turf was artificial.)

That’s the thing about excellence. It doesn’t matter if it is a professional athlete at the pinnacle of their career or it is the guy behind the scenes, the person who’s name you will never know, practicing his craft creating the world’s best turf, it is inspiring.

All excellence is inspiring.

My Day at The Masters was about more than turf.

Augusta National is known for its azaleas.

Just like Oklahoma, the weather in Augusta this spring has been warmer and dryer than normal resulting in an azalea floral display that was just past peak for Masters week.

I was asked if I was disappointed. The answer was yes, but only just so slightly. Even though the azalea show was just past peak, the excellence of the landscape did not disappoint. With over 365 acres of lawn and landscape, I did not witness a single unhealthy, less than perfect plant. Every plant was a specimen. At home, it doesn’t matter how hard I try; it always seems impossible to keep all the plants looking perfect. But at Augusta National, everywhere I walked, every direction I looked, the landscape was filled with wonderfully perfect plants.

A very good friend, who visited The Masters a few years ago told me, “You will not find a blade of grass out of place.” He was only half right. There wasn’t a blade of grass out of place and there wasn’t a shrub that wasn’t perfect!

August National’s commitment to an excellent landscape is inspiring.

Every year Oklahoman’s watch The Master’s and are inspired to have their best lawns and landscapes.

Common belief is that azaleas just don’t do well in central Oklahoma.

This is a myth. Azaleas can be grown in Oklahoma City.

But they require thinking differently about your landscape and a commitment to make it happen.

Azalea success in central Oklahoma won’t happen if you just dig a hole just anywhere in your landscape and drop in an azalea.

8 Things You Need to Know to Grow Azaleas in Central Oklahoma

Soil preparation is key. Azaleas require well drained acidic soil (5.0-6.0 pH). Central Oklahoma is known for tight clay alkaline soils (6.5-7.5 pH). The first step is to remove all the existing Oklahoma clay and replace it with a mixture of pecan hulls, peat moss, and pine bark. No soil. That is correct – azaleas do best when the native soil in our area is removed. My favorite mixture is 1/3 pecan hulls, 1/3 peat moss, and 1/3 pine bark. But you will have success with a 50/50 mixture of any 2 of the 3.

20 year old Hino-Crimson Azaleas planted in a raised bed in a mixture of pecan hulls, peat moss, and pine bark with all the native soil removed.

2. The size of the hole you dig is important. The standard for planting most trees and shrubs is a hole twice the size of the plant root ball. But when planting azaleas dig the hole 3 to 4 times the size of the plant root ball. You don’t need a very deep hole – it only needs to be 6-10” deeper than the level of the root ball once it is planted. Azaleas roots are shallow and like to grow out. So, think wide and not deep when digging.

3. Raised beds are best. Azaleas like moisture but they do not like to have their roots sitting in water. The best way to achieve a well-drained planting in tight soil is to raise the planting. A great option is to install a 4-12” stone boarder to gain height. Or incorporate a berm in the landscape planting for your azaleas. When placing the shrub, keep the top of the root ball 1-2” above the grade and gently slope your planting mixture away from the shrub. The number one reason azaleas die is from root rot.

4. Plant in the shade. Azaleas need mostly shade. They like the morning sun and filtered sunlight. A great place for an azalea is under large trees, particularly oak and pine. Pine needles and oak leaves will add acid back to the soil. If you lack large shade trees, plant them on the north and east sides of your home. Never plant azaleas where they will be exposed to the hot afternoon and evening sun. Also, avoid windy locations.

Red Ruffle Azaleas that have been lightly pruned over the years to maintain their natural shape.

5. Consistent water. When we are receiving sufficient rainfall azaleas do not need any additional water. But, when temperatures rise and moisture declines, regular watering is very important. Try to provide 1 – 1.5” of water per week during the summer months. Due to their shallow root structure, roots can dry out quickly. When temperatures are in the 90s or higher, water every other day with a deep soaking.

6. Avoid soil cultivation. Cultivating the soil will disturb the shallow roots. Control weeds by hand pulling and by mulching with 2-4” of pecan hulls, pine bark, or pine needles. These mulches will increase the acidity of the soil, cool the soil, and retain moisture.

Encore Autumn Ember Azaleas at the Hall | Stewart office this spring.

7. Correct pruning. Prune azaleas after the blooms drop in May or June. Do not prune after July 4th because you will be removing next spring’s blooms. Azaleas respond well to having branches that have grown too long pruned back to the branch. This will help maintain a natural shape of the plant and maximize blooms next spring. Sheering is not recommended. Dead wood can be removed anytime.

8. Feed them. Fertilizer applications after blooming in May and June are best. Fertilizing in early spring isn’t recommended as it will promote leaf growth and reduce the number of blossoms. Use an azalea/camellia/rhododendron food with trace elements for acid growing conditions. Miracle-Gro Water Soluble Azalea Plant Food and Ferti-Lome Azalea/Evergreen Food Plus are a couple of good examples.

Encore Azaleas have the added benefit of a fall bloom.

When it comes to azaleas, there are a lot of varieties and colors to choose from. Traditional azaleas that do well in Central Oklahoma include Hino-crimson and the Ruffles series. Over the past few years, the Encore varieties have become very popular and performed well. Traditional varieties are heavy spring bloomers. Encore Azaleas bloom in the spring with a second lighter bloom in the fall.

Here are a couple of good sources for azalea varieties: https://www.monrovia.com/search/?q=azalea and https://encoreazalea.com/the-collection/

I planted Hino-Crimson and Red Ruffle Azaleas at our house 25 years ago using the methods above. Every spring the colors are stunning. This time of year, you can’t drive down our street without slowing to steal a glance.

“Azaleas are the one plant that will cause a traffic jam.” Allan Storjohann

When planted correctly and maintained well, you won’t regret the time and effort you put into growing azaleas.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

Picture from this week of a NW OKC landscape of Azalea ‘Hino Crimson’ planted in 2021 in a mounded bed of pecan hulls, peat moss, and pine bark.

ELISE TAYLOR 4/5/26 ELISE TAYLOR 4/5/26

The Cost of Watering vs Protecting Your Lawn and Landscape Investment

I don’t remember a time I was this thankful for April showers!

Finally, the break your lawn and landscapes desperately needed.

Oklahoma City typically receives 35” to 36” of rain annually and in the last 365 days we have 36.25” of rain. Right in line with normal annual rainfall.

But, rainfall over the last 365 doesn’t tell the real story…

The real story is our rainfall over the last 6 months is well behind normal.

The real story is our lawns and landscapes are drought stressed.

Moisture is critical to the health of your lawn and landscape.

All plant processes require water. Without adequate water, plants cannot function or survive. Water facilitates a critical balance of moisture, air and nutrients available to the roots. When soil begins to dry and roots can no longer absorb adequate water, plants enter drought stress. This process is not limited to long term drought or neglect. It happens regularly when soil dries between normal rainfall cycles. Regular periods of drought stress impact the plant’s ability to defend itself against insects and diseases.

The battle we all face: Cost of Watering vs Protecting Your Lawn and Landscape Investment.

We all feel stress over the watering battle. The battle traps us in a cycle of watering one month, followed by an excessive water bill, followed by less watering, followed by signs of drought stress in our lawn and landscape, followed by increased watering, followed by an excess water bill…. The cycle never seems to end.

Water is the most abundant substance on earth, and ironically it’s our most threatened resource.

Is there another option?

Hall | Stewart set out to find a solution to the battle in the summer of 2024 and experimented with Hydretain on a few lawns.

What is a Hydretain?

Hydretain is a unique root zone moisture management product that reduces the overall watering requirements of lawns and landscapes.

Hydretain is a blend of hygroscopic (absorbing or attracting moisture from the air) and humectant (helps retain moisture) components that attract moisture. In other words, it acts like tiny “water magnets,” that form microscopic droplets within the root zone. It protects landscapes from drying out between rainfall and watering cycles. The result is a healthier, more vigorous and more drought resistant lawn and landscape.

Hydretain Pro, the formulation Hall | Stewart uses includes humic acids, seaweed extracts and organic worm castings to increase microbial activity and enhance root growth. It ensures steady hydration by moving moisture through the soil and condensing vapor into water droplets, so nutrients are more effectively absorbed and retained.

Hydretain advantages:

Maximize soil water availability and reduce irrigation frequency.
Manage soil moisture to help plants withstand periods of drought and watering restrictions.
Reduce water use and water cost.
Maintain a green lawn with less water.
Control or eliminate dry spot problems.
Enhance nutrient uptake.
Non-toxic, safe around pets and children.

Results of Our 2024 Experiment:

Lorne’s Fescue Lawn

Following an application of Hydretain in July and watering the product in thoroughly, the irrigation schedule was changed from an EVEN day watering cycle to an every FOUR-day watering cycle.

One week after the application was made the lawn received ¾” rainfall over a 4-day period and then no rainfall for 15 days. In the 30 days after the application was made, the average high temperature was 95 degrees with 7 days 100 plus.

The fescue lawn maintained a consistent rich green color and showed no signs of heat or drought stress the rest of the summer.

The result was a monthly water bill 33% less than the previous July and August.

*Lorne’s Fescue Lawn - Picture from August 2024, 30 days after Moisture Retention Application with every 4 Day watering cycle.*

Tom’s Bermuda Lawn

The lawn was divided into three areas. One area received an application of Hydretain and was watered once per week with a hose end lawn sprinkler receiving 1” of water each time it as watered. The second area received an application of Hydretain but was not watered the rest of the summer. The third area did not receive an application of Hydretain and only received rainfall.

The area received a ½” of rain in mid-July and then went without moisture until a heavy rain in mid-August.

The bermuda lawn that was treated and watered maintained a green, thick healthy appearance through July and August. The area that received a Hydretain treatment but not watered retained a significantly more color and showed less drought stress than the area that was not treated.

*Tom’s Bermuda Lawn Area 1 - Picture taken in August ‘24 one month after Moisture Retention Application, deep watering once per week.*

*Tom’s Bermuda Lawn Area 2 - August ‘24, one month after Moisture Retention Application. Area received 1/2” of rain 3 weeks before picture was taken and without receiving any supplemental water.*

*Tom’s Bermuda Lawn Area 3 - No moisture retention application was made. Picture was taken the same day as Area 1 and 2 pictures.*

Hall | Stewart’s Moisture Retention Program

Two Applications per Year Recommended: Spring and summer, approximately 90 days apart.

Application #1 April - May

Application #2 July - August

For best results, water immediately after application is made, or at least within 3-5 days. Irrigate thoroughly allowing the product to completely penetrate into the root zone. It will not be functional until it is properly watered in. Delay mowing until the product is watered in.

For continued effectiveness, a Moisture Retention Application is recommended every 90 days.

The Moisture Retention Program does not replace the need for Lawn Care Applications. A proper fertilization program will enhance the results of a Hydretain application.

Will your lawn be ready for a hot and dry summer?

Let us get your lawn ready with our Moisture Retention Program. You will save money and use less water.

Call (405)367-3873 or respond to this email with questions, to request a price, and/or to schedule our Moisture Retention Program.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

Lorne Hall 3/29/26 Lorne Hall 3/29/26

April Lawn & Landscape Tips

Typically, as we transition from March to April, we are focused on Fescue lawns becoming more vibrant every day, Bermuda lawns shaking of their winter brown as they start to turn green, and the anticipation of more and more perennials, shrubs and trees adding color to the landscape every day.

But, this year is different. The warmest February in Oklahoma City history got spring off to a fast start, with only a couple of low temperature speed bumps since, spring has had its foot on the gas pedal all the way through March.

The speed of spring has everyone, including your lawn and landscape feeling as if March and April were squeezed into one month…possibly called Marpril.

Fescue regains a rich green color when soil temperatures are consistently in the 50s. Soil temperatures have been 50 plus every day since February 26th. In areas where soil moisture is good, since mid-March Fescue lawns have looked more like mid-April Fescue lawns.

Bermuda starts turning green and begins to grow when soil temperatures are in the 60s. Soil temperatures have been 60 plus since March 22nd. Bermuda green up is farther along this year than I ever remember.

One more weather item impacting our spring…the lack of rain. Normal Oklahoma City March rainfall is 2.5-3.0”. This March…the official rainfall currently sits at less than .25”.

Moisture is critical to the health of your lawn and landscape as it

transitions from winter to spring to summer.

Drought stress is the result of plants, and yes, turf grass is included, desiring more water than is available. When they can’t get enough water, the plant starts expiring and starts shutting down. Photosynthesis stops. Leaf tissue desiccates…which is why some fescue lawns still lack a rich green color when temperatures and sunlight suggest their color should be dynamic. Root loss occurs which reduces the ability for the plant to take up moisture when it returns.

April is a big month for your lawn and landscape with so many important tasks that need our attention. Add drought stress and paying attention to your lawn and landscape this April is more critical than ever. Tasks this April will have an impact on the health of your environment this summer.

Let’s start with the most critical…moisture:

*With the warm February-March followed by the hard freeze two weeks ago it hasn’t been the most spectacular tulip season, but any burst of color tulips provide are always a favorite part of spring.*

*April is the month Fescue lawns make a big statement. If you have fescue it is time to start mowing every 5-7 days.*

*There are many varieties of Viburnum that grace the landscapes in April.*

*The first purple blooms will grace wisteria vines this month.*

*Henbit is a winter annual broadleaf weed know for purple flowers. If you want a clean lawn in April, don’t skip the two fall pre-emergent weed control applications.*

*Salvia start adding blue to purple spikes this month. May Night Salvia is a great companion perennial to dianthus.*

*Dianthus is a perennial that starts putting on a show in April.*

Irrigation

In April, the goal is to make sure your lawn and landscape receives ½” of water each week. Average April rainfall in the metro area is 3.0-3.5”. Most April’s your irrigation system will be off more than it is on, but please don’t assume. If you have not started watering your lawn and landscape yet this spring, start now. Monitor rainfall. Turn the system off or put it on a rain delay if we get a ½” rainfall or more. Poor water management is the practice of placing your irrigation on an every other day cycle at the beginning of the season and leaving it that way until you turn it off in the fall. The best lawns and landscapes are watered based on need, regardless of the time of year. Right now, they need moisture, badly.

If you don’t have a rain sensor, consider having one installed.

A sensor will pay for itself in water savings very quickly.

*It has been common to find very dry soil cores this spring while inspecting lawns and landscapes. Please water now. Our lawns and landscape are experiencing drought stress.*

*It is hard to beat the deep green color of fescue in April.*

Turf Fertilizer

Both Fescue and Bermuda lawns will benefit from a fertilizer application this month. If you subscribe to the Hall | Stewart 7-Step Lawn Care Program your lawn will receive fertilizer. If you subscribe to our 4-Step Weed Control Only Program, apply fertilizer to your lawn this month. Look for fertilizer with 25-30% nitrogen and a small amount of phosphorus and potassium.

*Poa Annua, annual bluegrass, is a winter annual that weed that is easier to prevent with fall pre-emergent herbicides than it is in the spring.*

*In the right location, a place with dappled or morning sun with acidic, well drained soil, Dogwoods add a splash of brightness to the landscape this month.*

*One of the first perennials to bloom each spring is creeping phlox.*

Turf Weed Control

The second spring pre-emergent application started in March and continues through April. A second spring pre-emergent is important because pre-emergent herbicides gradually break down overtime. A second pre-emergent extends weed prevention through the summer months. April is a good time to get control of broadleaf weeds in Fescue, but while Bermuda is coming out of dormancy, you must be careful with herbicide applications not to cause damage. Good turf development now is the key to a healthy lawn all summer. You don’t want to cause any harm while warm season turf is coming out of dormancy.

Our promise to you is to take all the steps we can to remedy weed issues in a way that is safe for your lawn and the environment.

Our request is that you always let us know how your lawn is doing 10-14 days after an application.

If the lawn needs to be retreated, results will be better if it occurs within 2-3 weeks of the initial application.

Lawn Maintenance

If you have a Fescue lawn, April is the month that you will need to start mowing regularly. Remember the rule of 1/3 – never cut more than 1/3 of the turf off in a single mowing. Anytime you cut more than 1/3 of the leaf blade off you are keeping your lawn from looking its absolute best. Start mowing the Fescue taller in April. It needs to have as much leaf space as possible going into the summer months.

If you have a warm season lawn (Bermuda or Zoysia) and have not already cut the lawn short for the spring, do so as soon as possible. Once the lawn starts growing it will need to be mowed every 10-14 days during a typical April. Try to keep your Bermuda lawns cut short early in the season by mowing often enough that you never remove more than 1/3 of the leaf when mowing.

*Oh, the colors of new leaves on Japanese Maples!*

*Deciduous (plants that drop their leaves in the winter) shrubs, such as abelia are coming to life.*

*Flowering Quince is an old fashion shrub that provides a show of red March to April.*

*Love peonies? Look for their blooms to burst open before the end of April.*

Looking for a shrub that will add a fun splash of orangish red to your landscape in the spring? The leaves of Double Play Candy Corn Spirea emerge with a bright candy apple red and then mature to a bold yellow.

*The tender new growth on boxwoods was nipped back by the freeze two weeks ago. Boxwoods are resilient and are already flushing out new growth.*

Tree & Shrub Care

April is the best time to fertilize trees and shrubs with a high quality micro-nutrient fertilizer to provide consistent, extended feeding for your plants. Our product improves soil structure, reduces plant stress, increases soil water retention, and promotes root growth and plant vigor without excessive shoot growth. Spring is also a good time to apply systemic insecticide to control sucking and chewing insects. As temperatures warm start inspecting plant material for insect activity. Early detection is an important part of insect control.

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape follows an integrated pest management approach, which starts with inspecting trees and shrubs and treating as needed.

Important: Trees and shrubs that have been exposed to drought stress are more susceptible to insect and disease problems. Due to the dry winter and spring, your landscape investment will need frequent inspection this year.

Need help protecting your landscape investment?

Give us a call, (405)367-3873 or reply to this email.

Our Tree & Shrub Care Specialist would love to make a visit to evaluate the health of your landscape plants.

Shrub Pruning

April is the last chance to do early season pruning on crape myrtles. Remove any crossing or rubbing branches, cut off last year’s left-over seed heads, and any branches that are smaller than a pencil. Overgrown hollies can still be reduced in size if you do it soon. The goal is to do any major pruning before the first heavy growth flush of the year. On ornamental grasses cut them down to about 1’ before new growth begins to shoot up from the grass clump. If new growth has started only remove the brown, winter damaged top of the plant leaving the new growth untouched.

Hydrangeas started to bud earlier than normal this spring. Endless Summer Hydrangeas took the freeze two weeks ago really hard. Give them a couple more weeks to put on new buds before you trim what appear to be dead branches. Mid to late month, prune dead branch tips back to just above the highest bud.

For more information on Hydrangea varieties and care, visit our post from last week.

Seasonal Color

We all have the tendency to get a little antsy and want to plant annuals a little too early. Who can blame you? With all the colorful plants already in the garden centers, it is hard to resist. Start with annuals that tolerate a few cool nights, such as begonia and impatient, and wait until May to plant heat loving annuals, such as periwinkle, lantana, penta.

Note: Go ahead and open up your calendar now and set yourself a reminder for next fall. Yes, next fall. We don’t want you miss out on planting spring flowering bulbs such as tulips, daffodils, hyacinths etc. You won’t regret it!

*Creeping Phlox adds interest to landscape edges and stone borders.*

*Bridal Wreath Spirea brighten the landscapes this month.*

Many Endless Summer Hydrangeas had early fresh buds when we had a 23 degree night two weeks ago damaging the new growth. Good news…they have started to bud again. Give them another two weeks and then prune off dead branches back to the highest bud.

*Ornamental Peach trees are benefiting from the slow warm up this spring.*

*Flowering Crabapple trees are demanding attention in the landscape.*

*Maynight Salvia is one of the perennials that will add color this month.*

*One of my April favorites, Saucer Magnolia.*

*Start planning now to plant bulbs this fall for spring color next year.*

*Azaleas are in full bloom around the metro, a couple of weeks earlier than normal for central Oklahoma.*

*Crape Myrtles are leafing out early this year. If you haven’t done your annual pruning, now is the time to do it.*

*On Crape Myrtles cut off last year’s seed heads, any crossing branches, and smaller branches.*

Now, go get outside!

The world is bursting with new life!

If you have any questions about your lawn or landscape, please send us an email or call (405)367-3873.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

Lorne Hall 3/21/26 Lorne Hall 3/21/26

Protect Your Landscape Investment…. Why Plant Health Care is Important

Your landscape represents a big investment.

And a well maintained, healthy landscape is a very good investment!

Research by Project Evergreen, a non-profit committed to creating a greener, healthier, cooler earth, found:

A well landscaped and maintained landscape can increase a home’s value 15 to 20% at the time of resale. A neat lawn and healthy landscape suggest the homeowners have taken good care of the property, leading buyers to perceive the home is more valuable.
Properties with an attractive and healthy landscape tend to sell faster.
Well-maintained landscapes contribute to the overall aesthetic of the neighborhood. There is an elevated perceived quality of the entire area, boosting property values.
A healthy landscape can improve environmental conditions by reducing soil erosion, improving air quality, and reducing home energy cost.

All great reasons why it is important to protect your landscape investment.

But, there is another reason to protect your landscape investment…shrubs and trees are expensive. Expensive, yes, and worth it.

Every year a healthy landscape is increasing in value, increasing your property’s beauty and increasing your home value.

According to the Council of Tree and Landscape Appraisers,

a mature tree can have an appraised value between $1,000 and $10,000.

Caring for your landscape is well worth it!

Caring for your landscape investment pays off!

What is Plant Health Care?

Plant Health Care is a systematic approach to the care of landscape plants, trees and shrubs, which can save you money, create a healthy landscape, and reduce the amount of toxic chemicals in your landscape. A good program employs the practice of Integrated Pest Management (IPM). The key to IPM is monitoring and inspecting landscape plant materials on a regular schedule, using preventive and proactive approaches to insect and disease management, and applying controls when needed to protect your landscape investment.

Hall | Stewart’s Tree & Shrub Care Program is built around the philosophy of preventive and proactive health care.

During late winter and early spring, our program focuses on the use of dormant oils. Dormant oils work by suffocating and smothering overwintering insects. Dormant oils are a preventive plant health care solution that can reduce the need to use insecticides during the season to control plant damaging insects.

Throughout the spring, as your landscape is coming alive, Hall | Stewart’s Tree & Shrub Care Program has two focuses: systemic insecticides and soil health.

Systemic Insecticides - This application is a proactive approach to reducing the severity of chewing and sucking insects during the growing season.

A few of the most common issues our proactive systemic insecticide application is designed to control:

Bagworms - Active from May through September. Favorite host plants are juniper, arborvitae, spruce, pine, cedar, but can infest deciduous trees and shrubs. Heavy infestations can kill a plant.

Be on the lookout for any plants that don’t look their best. Notice the slight color difference between these two Taylor Junipers? After close inspection, bagworms were found feeding on the one on the left.

***Although not as common bagworms will feed on deciduous trees. If you notice skeletonized leaves, look close, most likely there are bagworms attacking the tree.***

Aphids - Active in April and increase rapidly as temperatures rise. The honeydew, sticky substance they excrete is the easiest way to know aphids are active. Heavy populations can cause wilt and yellowing of leaves as the sap is removed. Blooming trees and shrubs will see a reduction in flowers.

***Aphids are small and often go unnoticed but the sticky substance they leave behind is easy to spot.***

***Aphids feed on the underside of the leaf and become noticeable as the leaf becomes covered with the sticky substance they excrete.***

Spider Mites - Active from early summer through fall. The hotter and drier the weather, the more severe the problem will become.First shows up as stippling of light dots on the leaves. Leaves then turn from bronze to yellow and then fall off.

***To know if you have spider mites shake leaves over a white sheet of paper.***
***Spider mites will look like tiny moving black dots.***

***Silk protective webbing formed by the spider mite.***

Crape Myrtle Scale - Active May through September. The scale is white to gray and exudes a pink blood-like liquid when crushed. Initially you will notice a black sooty mold on the twigs and trunks of crape myrtles. Bark scale is difficult to control without the use of a systemic insecticide to kill the sucking pests.

***This 25 year old Crape Myrtle was suffering from Crape Myrtle Scale. One year after trunk injections of a systemic insecticide and the mature tree is once again healthy and insect free.***

***White scale attacks Crape Myrtles leaving a black sooty substance on the bark.***

Soil Health – In our urban and suburban environment, trees and shrubs often become stressed due to poor soils, insufficient moisture, lack of nutrients and harsh growing conditions. Our program uses high quality micro-nutrient fertilizer to provide consistent, extended feeding for your plants. The product improves soil structure, reduces plant stress, increases soil water retention, and promotes root growth and plant vigor without excessive shoot growth.

If you would like to know more about Hall | Stewart’s Tree & Shrub Care Programs or have a professional evaluation of your landscape, please give us a call (405)367-3873 or simply reply to this email.

Our goal is to help you protect your landscape investment.

Why, because trees and shrubs are well worth it!

As Steve Dobbs, author of the book Oklahoma Gardener’s Guide put it:

“Trees are truly the pillars of our landscapes. Think of trees as an investment for future generations.”

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

Lorne Hall 3/15/26 Lorne Hall 3/15/26

Oklahoma's State Tree... the Redbud!

What a crazy weather pattern! The weekend started with near record highs yesterday with a forecast for temperatures in the mid 20’s for tonight!

Temperatures in the mid 20’s isn’t uncommon for central Oklahoma in mid-March, but what is highly unusual is how warm we were in February. February set a record for the warmest in Oklahoma City history.

It is typical for us to ask you in mid-March if you are ready for one of the best reasons to love Oklahoma…the coming annual Redbud color show! But this year with an early, warm spring, we are well into our second week of Redbuds exploding with color throughout the Oklahoma landscapes. In a typical year, they start blooming in mid-March and last through early April.

Before we jump into one of my favorite topics, let’s address what we can expect if temperatures actually fall to 25 degrees tonight. After all, our lawns, trees and shrubs have far more fresh new leaves, buds and blooms than they normally do with a hard freeze expected in just a few hours.

If temperatures drop to 28-30 degrees…

Blooms on trees, shrubs, tulips will show signs of light freeze damage with brown and weathered appearing tips and edges
Already green Bermuda lawns will lose some color

If temperatures drop to 25-27 degrees…

More blooms will show damage — although, in protected areas some blooms may survive
Bermuda lawns will lose all their color and return mostly to winter brown.

If temperatures drop below 25 degrees…

Expect all blooming trees, shrubs, and bulbs will lose all their blooms.

The variable factors that can make a difference is wind, cloud cover and how many hours the temperature remains below freezing. Low winds, a cloudy night, and temperature dip followed by a quick recovery will do less damage.

What can you do to prepare?

Most importantly…WATER your lawn and landscape today with a good deep soaking. This winter ranks as in the Top 10 of Driest Winters. Unless you have been watering weekly through the winter, your lawn and landscape is not prepared for a hard freeze tonight.
Covering blooming tulips and shrubs will provide protection. Use a breathable fabric, such as sheet, or burlap.

Now, let’s return to a more enjoyable subject…Redbuds in Oklahoma!

You have to love some of Oklahoma’s crazy state symbols:

Our state floral emblem is Mistletoe. Really? Mistletoe is an unwanted parasite that harms trees.
Our state vegetable is the Watermelon. Watermelon? Watermelon is a vegetable? Well, come July I’ll be eating a lot of vegetables!

But, when it comes to a state tree, Oklahoma couldn’t have selected a better tree.

There is no better flowering tree than the Redbud, especially the ‘Oklahoma’ Redbud.

Michael Dirr, easily considered America’s leading woody plant expert, wrote in his textbook Dirr’s Hardy Trees and Shrubs about Redbuds:

“No equal, no competitor, can be found among small flowering landscape trees – the stage is reserved for this native species.”

I agree!

Eastern Redbuds are native to the Eastern US from Massachusetts to Florida extending west to Kansas, Oklahoma, and Texas. In the native landscape, you typically see them as understory trees in wooded areas.

From mid-March to early April, you can’t miss them. Their pink to lavender flowers brighten the landscape before leaves bud on most trees. They grow in full sun and partial shade. They tolerate clay, loam, and sandy soils. They adapt to a wide range of soil pH as well as soil moisture.

But, the native Eastern Redbud has its shortcomings. During the summer, the leaves are a disappointment in Oklahoma. The hot winds of July and August leave the native Redbud leaves tattered and bruised.

Thankfully, Oklahoma has an answer to the Eastern Redbud –

**the ‘Oklahoma’ Redbud, Cercis Canadensis var. texensis ‘Oklahoma’.**

The ‘Oklahoma’ Redbud has a deeper purple color bloom and a waxy, thick, dark green, heart-shaped leaf. The ‘Oklahoma’ is far richer in color in the spring and carries beautiful foliage through the hottest of summers. In the fall, the leaves turn golden yellow.

‘Oklahoma’ Redbuds can be used in every imaginable landscape application. They are excellent lawn trees. They are dynamic in groupings. And, they add interest to landscape beds.

Redbuds grow 15-18’ tall and have a spread of 15’ at maturity. Their small tree nature tends to produce a low branching, rounded top-growing pattern.

The Redbud rooting pattern can lead to difficulty in transplanting. When selecting a balled and burlap tree, it is best if the tree is harvested and replanted during the dormant season. A good size to start with is a 1.5” to 2” caliper tree (Tree caliper is the diameter of the tree trunk measured 6” above the soil). If you are planting a Redbud during the growing season, I would recommend purchasing a container grown tree, as there is less transplant shock.

A redbud in Oklahoma City that is starting to bud this week.

Other varieties of Redbud include:

‘Forest Pansy’ which has a shimmering, reddish-purple leaf. This Redbud is a real winner in the spring. But, in the early summer the leaves fade worse than the Eastern Redbud leaves. If you decide to try this variety, select a place in your landscape where the tree will be shielded from the hot west sun and southern winds.
‘Texas Whitebud’ is a white blooming variety of the ‘Oklahoma’. It also has waxy, dark green leaves through the summer.
'Avondale' is a little smaller, reaching only 10-12' in height and width. It is one of the most profuse flowering redbuds with very showy dark rose-purple flowers. It also has a glossy, heart-shaped leaf.
'Lavender Twist' is a weeping redbud with rosy-pink flowers. The umbrella branching pattern only reaches 5-6' tall making it a good specimen for a focal point in the landscape.
'Merlot' is a new hybrid with dark foliage similar to the 'forest pansy' but has glossier leaves that take the summer heat similar to the 'Oklahoma' redbud.
‘Rising Sun’ rosy-lavender flowers and traditional heart shaped leaves that turn from yellow to orange maturing to lime green during the summer. Reaches 8-10’ in height with an 8’ spread.
‘Flame Thrower’ a new cultivar, a cross between the Rising Sun and a weeping Redbud, introduced by North Caroline State University. Individual leaves transition from purple to red to reddish-bronze and finally to yellow-green as they mature.

For more Redbud varieties, click this link https://www.monrovia.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=redbud

One final reason why I think the Redbud is one of our best trees –

It blooms only on the old wood! Stop and look at one. You will notice that the last 6-12” of each branch doesn’t have any blooms. All of last year’s growth is void of color. All the color is on the two-year old and older wood, occasionally even the trunk will bloom. Typically, trees and shrubs bloom on the end of the branches. Early blooming plants bloom on the growth from last year, such as azalea. Summer bloomers, such as the Crape Myrtle, bloom on the new growth from the spring. The Redbud is unique in only blooming on wood at least one year old.

Jim Paluch in his book, Leaving a Legacy, tells the story of seven senior citizens who discover the magic of the Redbud blooming only on old wood. They were inspired to not spend their later years withering away. They asked, “If a Redbud can bloom on its old wood, why can’t we?” The seven men struck out to make a difference in their community during their elder years.

Just this week I had the pleasure of spending a few minutes with a Hall | Stewart customer who a few years ago retired from a career as an arborist in Chicago and moved to Oklahoma to be near family. We briefly visited about the trees he had planted in his Oklahoma lawn, and of course, he had planted an ‘Oklahoma Redbud’. I left inspired by a retired arborist and his love for trees and thought “He’s still blooming!”

It’s spring…

Redbuds are blooming…

Time to get outside…

Take a walk around your neighborhood…

Go on a bike ride…

Take a drive...

Enjoy the Redbuds!

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

Lorne Hall 3/8/26 Lorne Hall 3/8/26

Often Asked Spring Weed Control Questions

The warm February has our landscapes bursting to life earlier than usual.

Usually, the first week of March we are eagerly anticipating the bright yellows of Forsythia, the pink-purple Redbuds, the myriads of colorful Tulips….not this year! This year the landscape is already gleaming with the colors of spring.

Spring is such a wonderful time of year!

But, there is bad news with spring too...

Spring also means lawns that have not been on a regularly scheduled lawn care program are bursting with weeds.

*Flowering Quince is one of the early spring bloomers. Quince grows well in full sun to partial shade and has a dense spreading growth pattern.*

*Blooming Forsythia is a sign that you need to get a pre-emergent on your lawn if you haven’t already.*

*Who doesn’t love the bright color of Creeping Phlox in the early spring landscape?*

Weeds generate a lot of questions this time of year. Let’s visit about a few of the most asked questions:

Is it too late to apply a pre-emergent herbicide?
Why is it so important to prevent crabgrass?
Why is it important to apply a second pre-emergent application in the spring?
If I put a pre-emergent on my lawn every year in the spring, why do I have weeds now?

Before we get to the questions, let’s break down the word “pre-emergent”:

Pre - before.

Emerge – come into view, to be seen.

A pre-emergent herbicide is used to prevent annual weed seeds from germinating by drying out the unwanted weed seed before it starts to grow.

Pre-emergent herbicides have little to no impact on weeds we are already seeing.

*Henbit, an annual winter weed that is littering lawns is easy to prevent with fall pre-emergent applications.*

*A clean weed free lawn in August is the result of two timely pre-emergent applications in the spring.*

Commonly asked pre-emergent questions:

“Is it too late to apply a pre-emergent herbicide?” (The most asked lawn care question this time of year.)

Crabgrass, the most feared annual summer weed, germinates when soil temperatures reach 55 degrees for 3 consecutive days, which is typically mid-March in central Oklahoma. This year we had a string of days with 55-degree soil temperatures the third week of February, very unusual. Since then, they dipped back into the upper 40s only to quickly rebound back into the mid-50s.

*Crabgrass is a very prolific yellowish to light green annual grassy weed that is east to prevent with a pre-emergent herbicide application.*

Untreated lawns, especially thin turf areas, will have a healthy stand of crabgrass by mid April.

It is never too late to put a pre-emergent on your lawn!

There are two reasons why it is never too late to start a weed control program:

1. The high quality professional pre-emergent herbicide we use will control newly germinated crabgrass during the early stages of development. So, if you do not apply a pre-emergent before germination, we can gain complete control if an application is within the first few weeks of germination.

2. Not all crabgrass seeds germinate all at once. Germination will continue through the spring and early summer. Even if you don’t get a pre-emergent on at the perfect time, having some prevention is better than none.

“Why is it so important to prevent crabgrass?”

Crabgrass is the most prolific summer annual grassy weed. As an annual it dies every year and comes back from seed the next year.

If you do not apply a pre-emergent on your lawn every spring it is certain that you will have crabgrass in your lawn during the summer.

Crabgrass is a fast grower and if left unattended will rapidly dominate turf. Just like the name suggests, it spreads low to the ground. It can be found in almost every turf and landscape setting during the summer months where a pre-emergent was not applied.

During the summer crabgrass grows faster than turfgrass and thrives under stressful conditions of drought, heat, and low soil fertility, when turf is struggling.

Crabgrass dies in the fall after the first hard frost. But before it dies, one mature crabgrass will produce thousands of seeds.

*Crabgrass will make a home in thin areas of turf this summer. Two keys to preventing crabgrass are two timely pre-emergent applications and a thick healthy lawn.*

Why is it important to apply a second pre-emergent application in the spring?

Pre-emergent herbicides work by creating a barrier over the soil surface. The barrier gradually weakens over the season from foot traffic, mowing and periods of heavy rain. The edges of the lawn are the first to break down. The purpose of a second pre-emergent is to provide protection throughout the summer months.

“Without two pre-emergent applications, crabgrass germination will happen before the summer season is over. The goal with a second application is to prevent weed germination as long as you can. Without a good barrier crabgrass germination will continue into July. With a second application you are pushing summer annual weed prevention all the way into August.”

Tom Stewart, co-founder of Hall | Stewart

Another reason for a second pre-emergent is to prevent other troublesome summer grassy weeds: goosegrass and sandbur.

**Goosegrass** germinates when soil temperatures reach 60 to 65 degrees. Because of the later germination period, it is common for goosegrass to dominate in lawns that only receive the first pre-emergent of the year. Goosegrass is common in areas of high foot traffic, compacted and poorly drained soils. Like most grassy weeds, prevention is the best medicine. Aeration is also a key step in reducing goosegrass.

**Sandburs** start germinating at 55 degrees soil temperatures, but they reach peak germination much later at 75 degree soil temperatures. A second pre-emergent application is critical for the prevention of sandburs. Another important characteristic of sandburs is they thrive in thin, dry turf. Two spring pre-emergent herbicide applications and a thick, healthy turf are the best defenses.

If I put a pre-emergent on my lawn every spring, why do I have weeds now?

The most common weeds in lawns right now are henbit, chickweed and poa annua. All three are winter annual weeds. Henbit and chickweed are winter annual broadleaf weeds. Poa annua is a winter annual grassy weed.

Winter annual weeds need to be prevented in the fall with a pre-emergent herbicide just like summer annual weeds need to be prevented now. Winter annual weeds start germinating in September as soon as we start getting cool fall nights. Two fall pre-emergent applications are just as important as spring applications to have a weed free lawn.

The winter annual weeds currently in lawns can be controlled by mixing a post emergent herbicide with the pre-emergent application. By this time of year winter annual weeds are reaching maturity. As annual weeds mature their growth slows as they put their energy toward flowering and producing seeds before they die.

The challenge is weeds are slower to react to weed control applications as they mature. As growth slows, they do not draw in the herbicides as quickly as they do when they are actively growing.

The solution to a clean lawn this time of year is to apply fall pre-emergent herbicides to prevent winter annual weeds.

It is always easier to prevent a weed than it is to control a mature one.

Two important take aways -

If you haven’t put a pre-emergent on your lawn yet this spring, it is not too late. But the sooner the better!
If you have put a pre-emergent on your lawn it is important to put a second application on your lawn for season long weed prevention!

The timing of pre-emergent applications, the quality of the herbicide applied, and the right quantity are all critical components for achieving your best lawn this season.

If you are a subscriber to a Hall | Stewart Lawn Care Program, either the 7-Step Weed Control & Fertilizer or the 4-Step Weed Control Only, your lawn receives the critical First Pre-emergent Application and the important Second Pre-emergent Application every spring.

If you are not a subscriber to a Hall | Stewart Lawn Care Program, please contact us.

We want to make sure you receive timely pre-emergent herbicides to stop weeds before they start wreaking havoc on your lawn.

Preventing weeds is much easier on your lawn than trying to control them after they are up and growing. Once weeds take root, harsher products must be used that may slow turf development.

If you have questions or would like additional information about pre-emergent applications, please respond to this email or give us a call.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn Care Programs

(405)367-3873

Lorne Hall 3/1/26 Lorne Hall 3/1/26

March Lawn & Landscape Tips

The warm days of February have delivered us an early launch toward spring.

It is common at the beginning of March to be reeling from a late February cold spell while anticipating the soon to come burst of life in our landscapes.

Hey! It’s time to get outside. Don’t delay, spring is on the fast track this year.

It’s time to walk the neighborhood.

It’s time to stroll the Myriad Gardens and Scissortail Park.

It’s March! Our world is bursting to life!

March, the month to be outside and discover something new in the landscape!

Enjoy every minute of every spring-like day!

Here are a few lawn and landscape tasks you should tackle this month:

*The annual tulip color show is starting in landscapes around the metro.*

*Flowering Peach is an early spring blooming small tree that adds splashes of pinks and reds to the March landscape.*

*If you haven't already, cut your fescue lawn to remove the freeze damaged leaf tips and soon the lawn will return to full color and start growing.*

Spring Lawn Maintenance

Get the mower out and get started. It is much easier to remove the winter damaged leaf blades before the turf begins to green-up. Remember, scalping on the lowest setting isn’t required and isn’t recommended. Simply mow the lawn at the height you plan to start the mowing season.

For most Bermuda lawns, the second setting is recommended. For fescue, start on the second or third notch on your mower.

We are often asked about dethatching at this time of year.

What is dethatching? Dethatching is the removal of excessive thatch builds up on the soil surface by using a vertical power rake.

But, unless you have a thick layer of ½-1” or more of thatch, dethatching causes more damage to the crown of the plants than it does good. So, with only a few exceptions, the best method for reducing thatch is an initial spring lawn maintenance followed by aeration after spring green-up. Unnecessary dethatching and scalping the lawn too low removes the canopy opening the lawn up to disease and weeds.

Need more info on the first mowing of the season? Check out last week’s post!

*With a warmer than normal February, tulips are already starting to grace the landscape with bright colors.*

Lawn Maintenance

As soil temperatures climb and occasional spring rains return, as soon as you remove the winter damaged leaf tips from your fescue lawns, they will regain color and start growing. Start your cool season lawn off right by maintaining it at 2 ½ - 3”. When it starts growing mow frequently enough that you are never removing more than 1/3 of the leaf blade per cutting. So, if you plan to maintain a 3” level, don’t allow the lawn to grow past 4.5” without giving it a trim.

If you have warm season turf, bermuda or zoysia, after you cut the lawn for the first time to remove the brown winter damaged leaf blades, most likely you can put off regularly scheduled lawn mowing until April.

Saucer Magnolia is a small deciduous tree with saucer-shaped white, pink or purple blooms in early spring. It makes a great specimen tree from the spectacular spring blooms to its spreading, multi-trucked shape.

*The Dallas Arboretum and Botanical Gardens' Dallas Blooms continues through April 12th. They claim Dallas Blooms is the largest annual floral festival in the southwest.*

One of the first shrubs to announce spring is forsythia. Interesting tidbit: when forsythia starts blooming it is an indicator that crabgrass has started germinating.

Lawn Weed Control

Summer annual weeds begin germinating when soil temperatures consistently reach 55 degrees. With the above normal temperatures through most of February soil temperatures reached 55 degrees earlier than normal, the third week of February, and then dipped back into the upper 40s after last weekend’s colder nighttime temperatures. Unless we have another cold spell, we are on course to see soil temperatures consistently reach 55 degrees in early March.

If you have not applied the first spring pre-emergent yet, please do so as quickly as possible. Whether you apply a pre-emergent yourself, or we do it for you, always follow instructions. Watering is a required step to move the herbicide into the top ½” of soil.

Need to know more about the timing of the first pre-emergent application?

This is the month landscapes are filled with the bright pinkish-red colors of Redbuds, the Oklahoma State tree

Lawn Fertilization

This month is a good time to start fertilizing your cool season lawns. Use a fertilizer with 25-30% nitrogen. Cool season lawns need to be fed more in the spring and fall when they are actively growing, and less in the summer.

If you have a warm season lawn, wait until lawns begin greening up to apply the first fertilizer application.

Bed Weed Control

March is an excellent month to apply a plant safe pre-emergent to your landscape plantings. Use caution in selecting the product to make sure it is safe for your plants. When possible, select a granular pre-emergent mixed with a fertilizer containing approximately 20% nitrogen. Doing so will give your plants a good spring feeding while preventing weeds at the same time.

Tree & Shrub Care

If you struggled with aphids, mites or scale in the past year you still have time to apply a dormant oil application for another couple of weeks. Dormant oils work by suffocating, smoother overwintering insects. Oil blocks the air holes causing the insect to suffocate. Dormant oils are an eco-friendlier approach to insect control by reducing the need for harsher control methods later.

Hall | Stewart’s Tree & Shrub Care Program Application #2 starts in March and continues through April. The application includes systemic insecticide and fertilizer. The application is designed to make sure your landscape investment is healthy and growing this season.

Spring is a good time to fertilize trees and shrubs with slow-release nitrogen, high quality phosphorus and potassium as well as micronutrients to provide consistent, extended feeding. This formulation is ideal for improving tree and ornamental development and vigor without unwanted shoot growth.

Spring is also a good time to apply systemic insecticide to control sucking and chewing insects.

*Pansies, as long as their crown was not damaged by January’s cold spell, are returning to life and will add color to the landscape well into May.*

*Hyacinth is one of the first spring blooming bulbs to add splashes of color to the landscape.*

*Not all the colors of spring are blooms. Be on the watch for the bright colors of new leaves such as the yellow, oranges and reds of Goldmound Spirea.*

Mulch

Spring is a great time to mulch your landscape plantings. Maintaining a 2” layer of organic mulch will reduce weed population, retain soil moisture, and provide a more consistent soil temperature for plant roots. I find adding mulch an easier task in the spring when I am cleaning my landscape plantings for the first time.

Irrigation

It is always important to monitor rainfall and water based on need. This winter ranked as one of the driest for the Oklahoma City metro area. If forecasters are correct, we will receive a good rainfall this week. But until we get at least ½” rainfall, continue to monitor soil moisture and give your lawn and landscape a good soaking every 4 to 7 days. As temperatures warm up, gradually increase the frequency of watering but delay starting every other day watering cycle until late spring to early summer.

*Flowering Quince is another shrub that is one of the first to bloom with branches loaded with red flowers before they leaf out.*

Spring Seasonal Color

Pansies are the toughest winter annual color, but it is common for them to look a little freeze burned after the winter. As long as the crown of the plant was not damaged, they have started to return to life and bloom. The great thing about pansies is they add color to the landscape until it is warm enough to plant summer annuals.

Wait until April to plant impatient, begonia, geranium, etc. And remember, most summer annuals need the warmer soil temperatures of late April or May before they are planted. If you get in a hurry, you will end up planting your summer annual color twice. When planting remember most plants prefer well drained, organic soil and would prefer you add compost when planting.

*Redbuds, Oklahoma’s State Tree, are off to an early start this year.*

Seeding Fescue

March is the second-best time to overseed fescue. But it comes in a very distant second to seeding in the fall. Spring seeded fescue will come up very well and look very good till the summer heat arrives - then it fades quickly. Fescue, being a cool season grass, does not establish a sustainable root system when planted in the spring. Give your fescue lawn a chance to green up first to get a better feel on the overall condition of the lawn. If you still feel you have bare areas that need to be addressed now, seed this month but still plan on seeding again in the fall. In most cases waiting till fall to seed is best. Fall seeding allows you to focus on weed prevention and turf development in the spring and turf establishment in the fall when it is best.

*Bridal Wreath Spirea will add graceful white blooms toward the end of March.*

*Creeping Phlox is one of the first perennials to announce spring has arrived.*

Pruning

March is the time to do heavy pruning on your roses. March is also the best time to make a major reduction in the size of hollies, boxwoods and most broadleaf evergreens. Before spring growth arrives, you can successfully remove all the foliage back to the central leader if needed.

When it comes to hydrangeas, most gardeners feel uncertain and confused about when and how much to prune hydrangeas. The truth is most hydrangeas do not need to be pruned at all. It is common to have some branch die back after the winter in our area. A common mistake is to get in a hurry when pruning back the winter damage. Be patient, don’t get in a hurry to remove dead branches. Wait until late March or even April before pruning off the dead branches. Pruning earlier, or pruning to the ground in the spring, could reduce or eliminate blooming this season. When it is time to prune back the dead ends, make your cuts at an angle just above the highest green bud.

Need more information on spring pruning?

*Wait until late March or even April to prune the dead tip branches from Hydrangeas. Prune the dead branch ends by making an angle cut just above the highest bud.*

If you need help with any of your lawn and landscape tasks, or just have a few questions, please don’t hesitate to give us a call or send us an email.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

Lorne Hall 2/22/26 Lorne Hall 2/22/26

The First Ritual of Spring

Does spring have a sound?

It does. It is the sound of lawn equipment firing up for the first time.

Following a very cold and snowy last week of January, the weather made an abrupt turn in February and sprinted right toward spring. This may be the earliest I have seen phlox, forsythia and saucer magnolias starting to bloom.

Ready or not…Welcome to Spring!

It’s time to get the lawn equipment out and kick off the season!

Let’s cover the first ritual of spring…the first lawn mowing:

When is the right time for spring lawn maintenance?

The best time is between the last week of February and mid-March. The goal is to do it after the last chance for extended cold weather and before spring green up.

How low do I need to cut the lawn the first time?

This will be the most often asked question over the next few weeks.

The old rule was to cut the lawn as short as the mower would go. Homeowners would brag about getting their lawn shorter than their neighbor. The more dirt exposed, the better.

But, why? What is the purpose of scalping your lawn to the dirt? Is that the best thing for your lawn?

The practice of scalping your lawn in the spring on the lowest setting isn’t needed and isn’t beneficial for your lawn.

But, there is something you should do every spring – the initial spring lawn maintenance.

*It is common for* ***Fescue*** *to end up over 3” tall. 1.5-2” is a good starting height in the spring.*

Spring lawn maintenance is the process of cutting the lawn to the height you plan to start mowing this spring. The purpose is to remove the cold damaged leaf blades allowing the crown, stolons, and rhizomes to grow. It is not good to cut the lawn so short you see dirt.

What is the difference?

Lawn scalping is setting your mower on the lowest setting, cutting the lawn as short as possible, often exposing some soil in the process. But, anytime you expose dirt in your lawn you are opening the opportunity for more weeds to germinate. And, when you scalp as low as possible, you run the risk of damaging the plant crown. Damage to the crown will result in a weaker root system and a stressed lawn through spring and into the early summer.

Spring Lawn Maintenance is the practice of setting your mower height at or just below the height you plan to start mowing for the season. This sets the lawn up for you to gradually increase the cutting height through the spring and summer with your lawn reaching its maximum height during the heat of late summer. If you plan to start your lawn off for the season on the second notch on your mower, then do the initial spring lawn maintenance at the same height.

*Often* ***Bermuda*** *lawns end the season at 2-3” tall. Cutting it down to 1” is a good place to start the season.*

Warm season turfs, Bermuda and Zoysia, go completely dormant during the winter, so removing the brown leaf blades is necessary. The leaf blades (grass shoots) are damaged by the winter freezes and do not green back up. In the spring, the crown, stolon, and tillers will green back up. So, only leaf blades need to be removed, not the crown or stolon.

*Fescue lawn* ***before*** *Spring Lawn Maintenance has removed the freeze damaged grass tips.*

*Fescue lawn* ***after*** *Spring Lawn Maintenance.*

Should I remove the clippings or leave them on the lawn?

Bag the clippings or rake them up after mowing. Removing the clippings is always a good practice anytime you are removing more than 1/3 of the grass blade in one mowing whether it is dormant or green.

*Fescue lawn 3 weeks after Spring Lawn Maintenance*

If I have a fescue lawn, is spring lawn maintenance required?

For the best spring green up, I would recommend mowing the lawn just a little shorter than you left it at the end of last season. Fescue and rye leaf blades often have brown tips from the winter cold. If you remove the brown leaf tips soon, your lawn will develop better color quickly as soil temperatures warm.

*If you have a fescue lawn, in the next couple of weeks cut your lawn a little shorter than you left it in the fall to remove the freeze damaged leaf blades.*

Do I ever need to dethatch the lawn? Dethatching is the process of removing excess thatch. Thatch is the layer of under-composed grass clippings that builds up on the soil surface. When your lawn is healthy and you are mowing often enough, you shoul…

Should I dethatch the lawn?

Dethatching is the process of removing excess thatch. Thatch is the layer of undecomposed grass clippings that builds up on the soil surface. When your lawn is healthy and you are mowing often enough, you should not have thatch build up. This is even true if you do not catch your clippings during the growing season. But, if you have a layer of more than 1” of thatch, dethatching is recommended. Use a verti-cutter, also known as a power rake, to remove the thatch before spring green up. Excessive thatch stops air, nutrients, and water from reaching the root zone and results in a shallow rooted turf.

Aeration, after spring green up, is also an effective way of removing thatch and has the added benefit of reducing soil compaction.

In most cases, spring lawn maintenance followed by aeration after spring green up will cure thatch problems. In nearly 40 years in the lawn and landscape industry, I have only seen a handful of lawns with excessive thatch problems to the point that dethatching was required.

It is common for fescue lawns to be more brown than green in late February. Cutting the lawn short enough to remove the brown tips and warm spring-like days will have your fescue back to green by early March.

Best Practice for Bermuda Lawns –

Anytime in the next 3 weeks cut the lawn on your mower’s next to lowest setting and remove the clippings. Plan to aerate your lawn in April – June to reduce compaction, improve soil structure, and move organic material into the root zone.

Best Practice for Fescue Lawns –

In the next 3 weeks, cut your lawn a little lower than you left it in the fall to remove the freeze damaged leaf blades, then be ready to resume weekly mowing in mid-March.

If you have any questions concerning the practice of spring lawn maintenance vs scalping, or the benefits of detaching vs aeration, send us an email or give us a call.

Our goal is to help you get your lawn off to its best start this spring.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

Lorne Hall 2/15/26 Lorne Hall 2/15/26

Nandina – A Bulletproof Landscape Addition

Nandinas are an old-fashioned, evergreen shrub that gradually fell out of favor over the years - a result of being overplanted for decades.

But, with the introduction of new varieties and their nearly bullet-proof performance, it is time to revisit why nandinas deserve a place in the landscape.

Nandinas grow from zone 6 to zone 11 (Oklahoma City is in zone 6b to 7a) and are a mainstay in the southern landscape. They grow in both sun and shade, although because their color is more dynamic in the sun, I prefer full sun to partial shade.

Nandina tolerates a wide range of soil pH from 4.0 to 7.0 if it drains moderately well. Once established, nandina is very drought tolerant.

Best of all, they have no pest problems. Even deer don’t bother them.

Nandinas add texture and color to the landscape. Their lacy green leaves grow on cane like stems adding yet another texture. In the autumn, the leaves turn burgundy and scarlet lasting through the winter and into spring. Some varieties produce berries in the fall and winter. No plant produces a showier berry cluster than the nandina domestica.

The varieties of nandina are numerous, but here are a few favorites:

Nandina 'Flirt' 1-2' tall. Stunning, deep red, new growth accentuates the evergreen leaves of this nandina. It is an improved variety of the classic Nandina 'Harbour Dwarf'. The dwarf growth habit makes it perfect for small landscapes and borders. — **Nandina 'Flirt'** 1-2' tall. Stunning, deep red, new growth accentuates the evergreen leaves of this nandina. It is an improved variety of the classic Nandina 'Harbour Dwarf'. The dwarf growth habit makes it perfect for small landscapes and borders.

Nandina 'Plum Passion' 4-5' tall. New growth in spring and summer is a deep purple-red, turning slightly redder in the winter. Versatile and durable, and highly effective as a specimen plant, in borders, or massed for intense color. — **Nandina 'Plum Passion'** 4-5' tall. New growth in spring and summer is a deep purple-red, turning slightly redder in the winter. Versatile and durable, and highly effective as a specimen plant, in borders, or massed for intense color.

Nandina ' Tuscan Flame' 3-4' tall. A real eye-catcher in the landscape, this evergreen shrub with a compact, rounded habit provides brilliant year-round color, needs minimal care, and maintains its neat round habit without pruning. Bright coral to r… — **Nandina ' Tuscan Flame'** 3-4' tall. A real eye-catcher in the landscape, this evergreen shrub with a compact, rounded habit provides brilliant year-round color, needs minimal care, and maintains its neat round habit without pruning. Bright coral to russet-red foliage has a lacy appearance.

Nandina domestica ‘Heavenly Bamboo’ 6-8’ tall. The largest of the Nandina family produces lacy green leaves on upright cane like stems that turn brilliant red in the fall and winter. Small flowers are followed by bright berries in the fall. Use in m… — **Nandina domestica ‘Heavenly Bamboo’** 6-8’ tall. The largest of the Nandina family produces lacy green leaves on upright cane like stems that turn brilliant red in the fall and winter. Small flowers are followed by bright berries in the fall. Use in mass plantings to create a colorful landscape screen or as a single specimen.

Nandina make a great accent in winter container plantings.

Nandina 'Sienna Sunrise' 3-4' tall. Intensely red new foliage cools to green. Fiery red in fall and winter. Plant in mass for dramatic effect. — **Nandina 'Sienna Sunrise**' 3-4' tall. Intensely red new foliage cools to green. Fiery red in fall and winter. Plant in mass for dramatic effect.

Nandina 'Harbor Dwarf' 1 1/2 to 2 1/2' tall. An attractive small evergreen shrub that forms a dense clump of upright, cane-like stems with soft, narrow, green leaves that emerge with a pink-copper tint in spring and turn a brilliant bronzy-red color… — **Nandina 'Harbor Dwarf'** 1 1/2 to 2 1/2' tall. An attractive small evergreen shrub that forms a dense clump of upright, cane-like stems with soft, narrow, green leaves that emerge with a pink-copper tint in spring and turn a brilliant bronzy-red color in fall and winter. Effective when used as an accent or container specimen, in mixed shrub borders, or massed as a groundcover.

Nandina ‘Firepower’. 2-3’. New foliage has fresh green coloration, with red highlights. Brilliant red foliage develops in the fall and persists through winter. Neat, evergreen mounds work well for borders and in masses. — **Nandina ‘Firepower’.** 2-3’. New foliage has fresh green coloration, with red highlights. Brilliant red foliage develops in the fall and persists through winter. Neat, evergreen mounds work well for borders and in masses.

Nandina ‘Gulf Stream’ 3-4’ tall. New leaves emerge scarlet red in spring and mature to blue-green in summer. Intense red foliage develops as autumn temperatures arrive. Compact shape is ideal for use around structures and in front of hollies. — **Nandina ‘Gulf Stream’** 3-4’ tall. New leaves emerge scarlet red in spring and mature to blue-green in summer. Intense red foliage develops as autumn temperatures arrive. Compact shape is ideal for use around structures and in front of hollies.

Looking for more information on the latest nandina introductions? Visit https://southernlivingplants.com/plant/nandina/

Landscape uses of nandina are nearly as numerous as the varieties. Nandinas add layers to the landscape when planted in the middle plant of larger beds. They are particularly showy when planted in front of dark green boxwoods and hollies, and behind ground covers and annual color. With their lacy structure, larger varieties provide a softening effect when planted in front of fences, structures and utilities. Dwarf varieties add interest planted along boarders and in groupings. They even make a great winter accent in containers.

Most winters nandina hold bright colors creating interest in the winter landscape.

Nandinas are a low maintenance plant. Pruning only needs to be done when a plant has become too large, irregular in shape or leggy. When pruning, use the 1/3 rule: prune back 1/3 of the tallest canes to the ground, prune another 1/3 back just above a leaf approximately halfway on the plant, and leave 1/3 untouched. Nandinas should never be sheared! Shearing nandina ruins the natural beauty of the plant. If nandinas are planted where they need to be sheared regularly, they are planted in the wrong location. It would be better to remove them than to shear them because a sheared nandina adds no value to the landscape.

One of the most prolific shows of fall-winter berries is found on Nandinas.

Over the next couple weeks, as your landscape is on the verge of bursting back to life, take a few minutes to reflect on the landscape’s winter interest. Should you consider adding a nandina variety to your landscape before next winter?

Nandinas, with bright red berries and red to purple foliage, are one of the best plants for adding interest to your winter landscape.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

Nandina should never be sheared. Shearing destroys the natural shape and beauty of the plant.

Lorne Hall 2/8/26 Lorne Hall 2/8/26

When is the Right Time to Apply a Pre-Emergent?

The short answer…

Before weeds germinate.

Ok, maybe we need the long answer –

The window for applying the first pre-emergent application is broad.

If you have already had your first application, it was done at the right time.
If you have not had your first application, you are NOT too late.

Summer annual weeds begin to germinate when soil temperatures reach 55 degrees. Mid-March is the normal time for soil temperatures to reach 55 degrees in central Oklahoma. We have experienced some years where soil temperatures didn’t reach 55 degrees until the last few days of March and we have experienced springs where soil temperatures reached the summer germination point in early March.

How do pre-emergent herbicides work?

Pre-emergent herbicides create a blanket over a lawn preventing seeds from germinating on the soil surface. Pre-emergent weed controls are designed to stop weed seeds from germinating. So, as long as they are applied before weeds germinate, the timing is perfect.

To be on the safe side, the best practice is to have the first application of pre-emergent herbicides on your lawn by the first week of March.

Last week in covering February Lawn & Landscape Tips we started by pondering the question:

Do you think of February as the end of winter?

Or, do you think of February as the beginning of spring?

The reality is February can go either way.

Sometimes February feels like winter is never going to end. Other times February feels like spring has arrived with bulbs, shrubs and trees bursting to life.

*Because crabgrass is an annual grassy weed, without a spring pre-emergent even the best lawns will have crabgrass this summer.*

With mostly 60 and 70 degree days in the forecast for the next few days we are on the edge of spring fever. But, the first feeling of spring can quickly turn to lawn anxiety if you haven’t applied the first spring per-emergent yet.

It is OK! You haven’t missed the window for a pre-emergent. Soil temperatures are still well below 55 degrees.

The timing of the first application is not about air temperature; it is all about soil temperature.

The current 3-Day Average Soil Temperature in the Oklahoma City area is 45 degrees, 10 degrees below the temperature required for summer annual weeds to start germinating.

If you have already had your first application, it was done at the right time.

And, if you have not had your first application, you are not too late!

With the occasional winter-like cold snaps February is known for we can expect soil temperatures to range between the mid 40s and low 50s for the next few weeks.

So, when is the right time to apply a pre-emergent herbicide to prevent summer annual weeds?

Anytime in January, February or early March before weeds germinate.

There is one very important factor when it comes to the effectiveness of a pre-emergent no matter when you apply it…. Water!

A critical factor in the effectiveness of a pre-emergent application is water.

Watering in the application activates the herbicide creating a barrier. A best practice is to water within 2-3 days of when the application is made. But, quality herbicides still retain effectiveness as long as they are watered in within 10-14 days.

There are a lot of factors that go into creating your best lawn, but the most critical at this time of year is the application of the spring pre-emergent before weeds germinate.

*One indicator that soil temperatures are warm enough for summer annual weeds to start germinating is bright yellow blooms of forsythia.*

*Even though we have had plenty of spring like days, forsythia has not started to burst with yellow yet.*

Two More Important Weed Control Details:

1. Pre-emergent herbicides are not designed to control existing weeds in your lawn. If you have weeds in your lawn now, a post-emergent grassy weed killer and/or a broadleaf weed killer must be applied. Weeds currently present in lawns now are winter annuals best prevented with the fall and early winter pre-emergent applications. Control now is possible, but the sooner an application is made, the better the results will be.

Best Practice – A clean lawn in January and February is the result of effective fall pre-emergent applications.

*The best way to have a weed free lawn in February is to never skip the fall pre-emergent applications.*

2. The pre-emergent barrier gradually weakens over the season from foot traffic, mowing and periods of heavy rain. The edges of the lawn are the first to break down. Additionally, summer annual weeds continue to germinate throughout the season. It is recommended that a second pre-emergent application be made mid-March to early May for season long prevention.

Best Practice – A second pre-emergent application 6-8 weeks after the first application will provide season long prevention of summer annual weeds.

So, when is the right time to apply a pre-emergent herbicide?

If you have received the first application of the season, you did it at the right time.

If you have yet to receive the first application, you perfect…there is still time to prevent summer annual weeds!

If you have any questions about pre-emergent applications, please give us a call!

Lorne Hall

Hall-Stewart Lawn & Landscape

(405)367-3873