Leaf Clean-up is a Matter of Lawn Health
Don’t you just love trees!
Trees announce the end of winter by celebrating spring with bursts of colors as they come to life with fresh buds and colorful blossoms.
In the summer, we enjoy the coolness of their shade.
And now, one of the most beautiful times of the year, fall, we enjoy the bright shades of red, yellow, orange, and brown that trees add to our world.
Lawn and landscape enthusiasts just can’t imagine a world without the enjoyment of trees.
But it is starting…
the not-so-enjoyable side of trees…
falling leaves!
Let’s face it, for all the wonderful attributes of trees, trees can be a love-hate relationship.
Maybe “hate” is too strong a word for a tree lover.
Maybe it's more of a love-love-love….
followed by an inconvenient relationship.
It is just so unfortunate that leaf clean-up is a necessary evil of being a tree lover.
Weekly mulch mowing leaves is a best practice for keeping your healthy through the fall.
We love the spectacular red maple leaves on our trees. But, as soon as they clutter the lawn, we can’t stand them.
The old yellow Cottonwood leaves look great towering over this Edmond neighborhood, but soon frequent mulch mowing of leaves will be a best practice in this neighborhood.
Shumard Oak trees are one of the last trees to add color to the fall landscape and also one of the last trees to drop leaves.
Why is leaf clean-up important?
Can’t we just leave the leaves on the lawn and landscape until an Oklahoma wind pushes them down the street?
Why is it important to clean up leaves when the lawn isn’t growing much and will soon be dormant?
Is the only reason we clean up leaves to have a neat and tidy landscape?
Actually, leaf clean-up is a particularly important part of lawn health.
Why?
For fescue lawns…
Fescue lawns are thriving right now. Gradually, fescue growth will slow, but root development will continue.
Light and air are two critical elements needed for the turf to build strong roots.
Strong roots equal a better lawn next spring.
Best practices for fescue lawns are all about developing a strong root system for next summer.
The best practices include fall fertilizer applications, overseeding to thicken the turf, proper water management, and ensuring the turf receives light and air by removing leaves frequently.
For cool season lawns, allowing leaves to accumulate for more than a week results in thinner turf.
Allowing leaves to become matted on cool season lawns will result in completely bare areas. This is important for mature fescue lawns, but especially critical for newly seeded fescue.
Fescue Lawn Recommendation
Continue to maintain fescue lawns weekly as long as leaves are falling and accumulating.
Oak trees are one of the last trees to drop their leaves. Some varieties of oaks actually hold their leaves until new buds emerge in the spring.
The incredible colors of fall are gradually fading into the stress of leaf cleanup.
Unfortunately, soon the brilliant rusty reds and yellows of my Bald Cypress will cover the lawn and patio.
Due to the smallness of the leaf, Elm leaves will create a thick mat if not cleaned up frequently.
When you make leaf cleanup a weekly practice, most of the time it is as simple as using your lawn mower to mulch mow the leaves back into the lawn. Studies show mulch mowing leaves return nutrients and organic matter back to the soil. Mulch mowing leaves when there is a thin layer covering the turf allows the leaves to naturally compost and return valuable organic matter to the soil.
My current practice is to mulch mow my fescue lawn every 4-5 days.
When leaf drop is heavy, raking and removal may be needed. The goal is to return your lawn condition to the point where air and light can reach the turf blades. If mulch mowing only results in a heavy layer of smaller leaves, it is time to rake and bag.
When a large leaf drop occurs, and it typically happens once or twice every fall, my practice is to blow the majority of leaves into piles, bag them, and then mulch mow the lawn.
So, is leaf clean-up necessary? Yes:
Leaf removal is a matter of lawn health, not just tidiness.
All lawns need air and light to thrive, even in the fall and winter.
Resist the urge to wait until all your leaves have dropped before you clean them up!
Mulch mowing often is a beneficial way to keep leaves cleaned up.
Bald Cypress needles are notorious for creating a dense blanket robbing your lawn of light and air.
For bermuda lawns…
It is tempting to let leaves build up on dormant warm-season lawns. But dormant bermuda also needs air and light. Piled-up leaves trap moisture and are prime breeding grounds for disease. Moist leaves can result in fungal problems.
It is common to find thin and sometimes bare areas in bermuda lawns where leaves have been left for extended periods of time.
Bermuda Lawn Recommendation
Even though warm-season lawns have stopped growing and are entering dormancy, keeping leaves cleaned up and not allowing them to accumulate around edges and in corners is the best practice.
Leaves piled up in corners are a breeding ground for disease.
Mulching leaves with your mower is very beneficial to your soil.
Allowing leaves to accumulate on your lawn can result in a thinner turf.
A leaf covered lawn will reduce the effectiveness of the last lawn application of the year by limiting the weed preventing herbicide from reaching the soil surface.
Another reason for regular leaf removal is the timing of the last lawn care application of the season -
Fall is a critical time to prevent and control weeds and set your lawn up for a great start next spring. Application effectiveness is reduced when the herbicide can’t reach the target because there is a layer of leaves.
Some the the most dynamic yellow leaves in the metro can be found on the Ginkgo Trees on NW 1st and Classen in front of the old Sunshine Cleaners building.
Don’t allow leaves to accumulate on your lawn edges for days and days. If you do the result will be thin edges next spring.
Leaf clean-up is a part of the changing of the seasons. It is a chore, but a chore that is worth it. Frequent leaf clean-up this fall will give you a better-looking, healthier lawn next spring and, more importantly, it could prevent you from spending time and money repairing a thin lawn.
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
November Lawn & Landscape Tips
November - Vibrant colors against blue skies.
November - The smell of crisp, cool air.
November – Sweaters and hoodies.
November – Days that are no longer too warm but still not too cold.
November – The calm before the holidays.
November – Lingering walks past rich green fescue lawns and brightly colored trees.
November – A great time to be outside!
November - Less lawn and landscape tasks, right? Well, yes. But, still very important tasks if your goal is to have your best lawn and landscape.
As harsh as this summer was in central Oklahoma, our lawns and landscapes really need this fall to recover from the stress of July, August, and September.
Two things at the top of the list for your lawn and landscape recovery this fall:
First - Finishing the year strongly with the correct Lawn Care Application for your turf type.
Second - Protecting your landscape investment with the final Tree & Shrub Care Application of the season.
Let’s take a look at all the lawn and landscape activities on the list for November:
Lawn Fertilizer
Fescue and rye lawns need their second fall fertilizer application in late October through November. Fall is the best time of the year to fertilize cool-season lawns. Bermuda lawns do not need any more fertilizer this year. A good lawn care program fertilizes cool-season and warm-season turf on different schedules, ensuring each receives fertilizer at the right times.
Plants that produce berries, such as nandina, add bright colors and interest to the fall and winter landscape.
Oakleaf Hydrangea, know for their early summer blooms, also adds color to the fall landscape.
Weed Control
This month is a good time to control broadleaf weeds in your warm season and established cool season lawns. Dandelions and other broadleaves are typically small at this point and easier to kill. If you overseeded your lawn with fescue or rye this fall, do not apply any weed control products until the new grass is well established and has been mowed a few times.
If you have not applied a pre-emergent to your lawn this fall, please do so as soon as possible. And if you applied a fall pre-emergent in August or September, a second pre-emergent should be applied between mid-October and early December for best prevention of winter weeds. A clean start next spring is the result of two timely fall applications.
The blue berries of Hollywood Junipers add interest to the fall and winter landscape.
Perennial Tip: If you have mums in pots this fall, don’t throw them away when they are finished. Instead, add them to your landscape. These mums, used as a perennial, where in pots last fall.
Pyracantha is another fall berrying plant. There are varieties with orange, yellow or red berries.
Poa Annua, one of the hardest to control winter annual weeds, is best prevented when a second fall pre-emergent is applied in late October to early December.
Fertilizing Trees and Shrubs
Once your area has received a freeze, it is time to apply a good balanced fertilizer to your trees and shrubs. Our soil temperatures remain above 40 degrees most of the winter, and plant roots remain active. Because nitrogen leaches from the soil, it needs to be replaced. Our experience has found that a late fertilizer application with a slow-release nitrogen combined with a soil conditioner designed to reduce plant stress, promote root growth, and support microbes to improve soil health will aid plant health and increase plant beauty next spring.
A fall fertilizer application for your trees and shrubs is very important this fall. During the extended heat stress, this summer plant’s normal photosynthesis and used stored in their roots to survive. Fall is the window for reversing damage from this summer and restoring plant health.
Now is the perfect time to add pansies to your fall landscape.
The bright colors of summer loving annuals will be gone as soon as we receive a killing frost.
Seasonal Color Planting
If you have not removed your summer color and replaced it with pansies and kale, now is the time to do it. Soon, as nighttime temperatures continue to cool, any remaining summer color will be done for the season. Because soil temperatures stay warm through November, you still have time to plant pansies.
Spring Bulbs
November through early December is the best time to plant spring flowering bulbs such as daffodils, hyacinths, and tulips. I have never heard anyone in March say they wish they hadn’t planted bulbs last fall. But every year, I hear someone say how much they wish they would have taken the time to plant bulbs last fall.
Lawn Mowing
Warm-season lawns, bermuda and zoysia, will have very little growth soon. Do not scalp warm-season turf to end the growing season. Cool season lawns, fescue and rye, will continue to grow and flourish. Continue to mow fescue and rye on a regular schedule. The best height to maintain your cool season lawn in the fall is 2.5” to 3”.
A common appearance of bermuda lawns is a spotty pattern after a heavy frost.
Autumn Blaze Maples have started adding dynamic reds to the landscape. It is one of the first maples to turn in the fall while the October Glory Maple is one of the last.
Ash trees add bright yellows to the early fall landscape.
Chinese Pistache is a medium sized tree with an oval round growth habit and spectacular fall color in shades of yellow, orange and red.
Leaf Removal
It is important to keep leaves cleaned up. Allowing them to decay on the lawn promotes fungus and disease. If you have a cool-season lawn, it is critical to keep the leaves removed. Fescue and rye need light. Allowing leaves to remain on the lawn for extended periods of time will kill areas of your lawn. My favorite way to remove leaves from my fescue lawn is to mulch mow every 5-7 days. I find that mulching small amounts of leaves back into the lawn improves my soil structure. I only rake and bag leaves when leaf drop is too heavy to mulch mow.
A great way to manage leaf clean up is to mulch mow the leaves every 4-5 days.
If you have a fescue lawn it is very important to remove leaves at least weekly. Fescue needs light and will fade away if leaves are allowed to accumulate on the grass.
Irrigation
Rainfall returned at the beginning of October, putting an end to an 80-day rainless streak. Lack of moisture is a major cause of plant stress, especially in winter, and particularly for evergreens.
With above-average rainfall in October, cooler temperatures and shorter days, the temptation now is to stop watering altogether. But the best lawns and landscapes, are the result of irrigation management through all seasons. Best irrigation management practices start with monitoring local rainfall and also include inspecting soil moisture in the landscape.
Often this time of year, I will set my irrigation to run every 4 days and be prepared to turn it off for a few days when we receive a ½” or more rainfall.
If your irrigation backflow device is located below ground, inside your garage/house, or has winter protection (heat tape, insulated bag, and cover), you do not need to winterize your system for the winter. Continue to use the system as needed on nice days throughout the winter.
If your system’s backflow is not protected from freezing temperatures, consider adding heat tape, an insulated bag and cover. This will allow you to protect your landscape investment by watering as needed this winter. You can also take it one step further and install a rain/freeze system that will shut the system off when it is too cold, or when we have had rain.
Key Point – Most landscape winter damage occurs when the top few inches of soil are dry when temperatures are below freezing.
Irrigation systems are required to have a backflow device installed to prevent irrigation water from re-entering the city water supply. Without freeze protection, your system needs to be shut down for the winter.
The traditional way to protect your backflow from freezing is to wrap it with heat tape and cover with an insulated bag and mock rock. With freeze protection you can continue to use your system as needed through the winter.
Autumn Blaze Maples, one of the first maples to turn in the fall, started adding bright reds to the landscape this week.
Seeding Fescue
The best time to overseed fescue is traditionally September through October. If you have not seeded this year and need to, even though we are in November, you can still have success as long as soil temperatures remain in the mid-50s or higher. Current soil temperatures are still in the upper 60s, uncommonly warm for the start of November.
Remember, the keys to successful overseeding are good seed-to-soil contact and keeping the seed moist until it germinates. With cooler temperatures, you can expect it to take a little longer to see results than the typical two weeks, and depending on temperatures in November and December, the results may not be fully seen until spring.
If you overseeded your lawn with fescue in September or October, keep the seed consistently moist, and followed up with a fertilizer application in the last month, your fescue is most likely looking its best headed into November. If you need to do any touch up seeding, with the extended warm soil temperatures, you still have time to add more seed.
If you didn’t prune the spent blooms off your reblooming hydrangeas after they faded, the dried out, spent blooms of late summer turn bright pinkish-red colors in the fall.
Autumn Sage is a perennial that is great for adding reds and pinks to your fall landscape.
One of the great colors of fall comes from an unexpected plant, an ornamental grass - Pink Muhly Grass.
Ginkgo trees will add a bright yellow to the landscape this month.
Chinese Pistache trees are starting to add yellows, oranges and reds to the landscape.
Sumac is a great midsized plant, perfect for planting under large trees, that will add splashes of color through the fall.
Oak trees will grace our environment with reds and browns before the end of November.
Well, it looks like November doesn’t mean it is time to put up the lawn and landscape tools. Your lawn and landscape still need plenty of attention.
Your best lawn and landscape next spring is the result of how well you finish the season this fall.
If you have questions or need help, send us an email or give us a call.
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
Plan now. Plant next month. Enjoy next spring!
Before we get too carried away with all things fall… Thanksgiving gatherings and holiday shopping…let’s take a giant leap into Spring 2027 and talk about one of my favorite things…
Any guesses….
What requires planning now, planting next month, but you don’t get to enjoy until next spring?
Spring Flowering Bulbs!
Most of our lawn and landscape activities bring feelings of immediate satisfaction. On days when I mow the lawn, I get a deep feeling of accomplishment. When I’m finished, there are clean, crisp lines. Sharp edges. No leaves. No debris. I can step back, take a breath, and let the feeling of a job ‘well done’ sink in. The same is true about planting a new shrub, mulching a bed, or adding fresh pansies.
But spend an afternoon planting spring flower bulbs and the feeling of accomplishment is replaced with the feeling of anticipation!
Early spring, as green leafy tips start popping up from the soil, anticipation starts to build. Daily, you take a quick gander to see if more leaves have emerged. Then one day you notice a stem or two starting to grow between the leaves, increasing the anticipation of the colors to come. Suddenly, one day you notice a little color starting to show on a closed flower. From that point, every day you anticipate a flower exploding with spring color. The day it does, all the hard work months ago, all of the building anticipation, is suddenly replaced with a feeling of accomplishment!
Spring bulbs have never been known for instant gratification.
Search ‘anticipation,’ and you will find pictures of tulips, daffodils, and hyacinths announcing spring.
The most vibrant colors you will enjoy next spring require planning now and action next month to experience next spring.
Let’s answer a few questions so you can have dynamic color next spring:
If you have problems with deer eating your flowers, plant daffodil bulbs. Daffodils contain a bitter substance that deer won’t eat.
Tulips at the Myriad Gardens.
Let’s answer a few questions so you can have dynamic color next spring:
When to plant?
Spring blooming bulbs need to be planted from early November through mid-December. They are best planted after the first freeze, which in central Oklahoma typically occurs the first week of November. And, because spring bulbs require winter chilling for successful blooming, it is best to plant them within 6 to 8 weeks after the first freeze. Planting later may greatly diminish your success.
Daffodils are a spring blooming bulb that is very forgiving of our tight clay soils and are perennials in our area (meaning they will come back year after year).
Where to plant?
Bulbs require well-drained, rich, organic soil. They do not perform well in the native, tight clay soils that dominate central Oklahoma. All spring-blooming bulbs prefer full sun, but because they grow and bloom while trees are mostly dormant, you can have success planting under deciduous trees. Tulips perform best in the cooler temperatures north of Oklahoma but still can put on quite a show well into Texas. Daffodils and hyacinths are consistent when it comes to early spring color in central Oklahoma.
How to plant?
Bulbs should be planted at a depth of two times their height, or approximately 3-4”. Shallow planting exposes cool season bulbs to summer heat. Plant with the rounded end down and the pointed end up. Bulbs do not need to be fertilized when they are planted. But if your soil is not rich in organic material, I recommend mixing in compost when planting.
Tulip colors are nearly limitless. A great local show of tulip colors is the Myriad Gardens.
Spring bulbs have a dynamic impact when planted in mass.
Are spring blooming bulbs annuals or perennials?
Tulips in central Oklahoma are best used as an annual - meaning you will want to replant them every fall. You will have some repeat blooming the first year or two, but they diminish in results each year. If you don’t replant every fall, plan on replanting at least every two to three years. Our tight soils and warm summer soils are not ideal for bulbs to act as perennials. Daffodils and hyacinths are much more forgiving of our soils and can perform well as perennials. One key to improving the perennial nature of bulbs is to never plant over the bulbs. This creates problems for me as I typically use bulbs in my annual color areas, so I treat tulips as annuals and replant each year.
Can I dig and store bulbs over the summer?
Yes. Lift the bulbs from the soil after the foliage has completely turned brown using a pitchfork. Dust off as much soil as possible. Store in a cool, dry place for the summer.
One of the best tulip displays every spring is the Myriad Gardens. Go ahead and set a reminder in your phone to take a tulip walk in March 2026.
Hyacinths are known for their adding a burst of purple, blue and pink tones to the late winter and early spring landscape.
When do they bloom?
Hyacinths will bloom first in late winter to early spring. Daffodils bloom next in early spring. Tulips come in three bloom periods – early, mid, and late spring. Early spring tulips bloom at the same time as daffodils. The danger with early spring bloomers is the chance their delicate petals will be short-lived due to a late freeze. Late-blooming tulips also run the risk of a short bloom period because a few windy and warm days will put an early end to the show. I try to use mid-spring blooming varieties as much as possible, or if the area I am planting is large, I will plant tulips from each bloom period to extend the color show.
What colors are available?
Hyacinth comes in bluish-purple, white, buttery-yellow, soft blue, and fuchsia. Daffodils are traditionally white and yellow, but you will find shades of orange, pink, and cream. For tulips, the varieties and colors are nearly endless, with new kinds arriving every year. I have tried many varieties and colors over the years, but I’m a traditionalist when it comes to tulips. It is really hard to beat a red, white, or yellow Darwin Hybrid tulip on a bright March day. Darwin Hybrids are mid-spring bloomers that come in many colors and are known for big blooms. They are also one of the best at returning in years two and three if you want to use them as a perennial.
Are bulbs deer and rodent proof?
If you have problems with deer munching on your flowers, consider planting daffodil bulbs. Daffodils are deer- and rodent-proof because they contain a bitter substance called lycorine that mammals won’t eat.
A great site to view all the colors of hyacinths, daffodils, and tulips is www.colorblends.com. Their website is an endless source for bulb information, planting tips, and design ideas.
Start planning now.
Be ready to plant in November.
Enjoy next spring!
You will never regret planning ahead and planting spring-flowering bulbs!
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
405.367.3873
Fall…Does My Lawn & Landscape Still Need Fertilizer?
A 40-degree Saturday morning and it is finally starting to feel like Fall is in the air!
So, here’s the question we are often asked as temperatures cool:
“Does my lawn and landscape still need fertilizer?”
Short answer: “Yes” and “No” and “No”
Got it? Oh, maybe we need a little longer answer:
“Yes, the fertilizer season is over for warm season turf (bermuda & zoysia).”
“No, the fertilizer season is not over for fescue.”
“No, the fertilizer season is not over for trees and shrubs.”
Still not enough information?
Let’s explore the long answer on why fertilizing cool season turf and trees and shrubs is important this Fall.
Fescue
Fall is the beginning of a new season for fescue lawns.
I’m sure you have noticed as afternoon temperatures became more moderate, fescue lawns started regaining color and growing.
For Fescue, Fall is the same as Spring is for bermuda.
A fertilizer application with a higher nitrogen fertilizer, the first number on the fertilizer bag, applied in the Fall as temperatures cool thickens fescue, encourages new growth and adds a deep rich color to the lawn.
Fall fertilizer applications on fescue will result in a healthier, thicker lawn. And don’t forget, a dense healthy lawn is the best defense against weeds.
Two fertilizer applications with at least 25% nitrogen in the fall, 4-6 weeks apart, is recommended for the best fescue lawn.
If you skip one or both of the fall fertilizer applications on your fescue turf, you are not setting yourself up to have your best lawn in 2026. Even if you are overseeding your fescue this fall, fall fertilizer is especially critical in the establishment of a healthy lawn. Don’t cut corners in the fall when it comes to fertilizing fescue.
If you have a overseeded fescue or are planning to this fall, don’t skip a fertilizer application. New seed grows rapidly and needs plenty of nutrition.
Fescue lawns start their new season in the fall and benefit from two fertilizer applications during the fall.
Fescue lawns that have received fertilizer this fall are adding a rich green color to the landscape.
Fescue can be grown in full sun but it requires a very different fertilizer schedule compared to bermuda.
A healthy, thick and deep green fescue lawn next spring is easier to achieve with when a lawn receives the correct fall fertilizer applications.
The challenge for lawns with both warm season and cool season turf is they require the exact opposite timing of fertilizer applications for them both to thrive.
Why is fertilizer not recommended for Bermuda and Zoysia (Warm Season) now?
Wouldn’t fertilizer keep a Bermuda lawn green longer?
Warm season grasses are at the end of their growing season. In October and November, warm season lawns don’t require nitrogen. With shorter days, cooler days and nights, and the decrease in soil temperature, growth slows, and turf color fades.
Heavy nitrogen fertilizer in October in an effort to maintain color longer into the fall is harmful for bermuda and a catalyst for Spring Dead Spot Disease.
The chances of having Spring Dead Spot Disease next year increases when nitrogen fertilizer is applied to a bermuda lawn in the last 4-5 weeks before the first freeze, which in central Oklahoma is typically the first week of November.
So, if you are thinking because it has been a warm fall your bermuda lawn needs one more shot of nitrogen before the end of the season, don’t do it. You are doing more harm than good.
Spring Dead Spot is a disease that impacts bermuda lawns in the spring as the lawn is coming out of dormancy. One of the catalyst is heavy nitrogen applications in October applied in an effort to keep a warm season lawn green and active late into the fall.
Because bermuda starts to thin out when it receives less than 6 hours of direct sunlight it is common to see lawns with both bermuda and fescue. The problem is you try to fertilize them the same, one will flourish and the other will struggle.
Bermuda, a warm season turfgrass, performs best when fertilized with higher nitrogen during the summer month and low nitrogen fertilizer in the fall.
With cooler night time temperatures and shorter days, Bermuda lawns are slowing down. Resist the urgent to try keep them green and growing with high nitrogen fertilizer this month.
Problem - Fescue won’t thrive, it will actually struggle to survive, if it is fertilized like bermuda. And the same is true for bermuda. Fertilize bermuda like fescue and the result will be a thin, weak lawn.
For a successful, fescue lawn, you have to think backward from a bermuda lawn.
For a successful bermuda lawn, you must think backward from a fescue lawn.
You can’t fertilize them both the same way and expect them both to respond the same way.
The Good News –
If you subscribe to Hall | Stewart’s 7-Step Lawn Care Program, whether you have bermuda, zoysia, fescue or a combination of turfgrasses, we will make sure each type is receiving the correct fertilizer based on the current season and growing conditions. Our program recognizes that warm season grasses and cool season grasses have very different fertilization timing and needs.
Trees and Shrubs
Plants need nutrients to grow and stay healthy just like your lawn does. Signs of low nutrient levels in your landscape plants are lack of growth, dead or dying twigs and branches, off color leaves, and early Fall leaf drop.
Fertilizer applications improve the appearance of trees and shrubs, increase their vigor and help plants increase resistance to disease and insects.
An application of a complete fertilizer containing nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and micronutrients is recommended.
The best time to fertilize trees and shrubs is after a heavy frost or freeze in the Fall, and in the spring between March and May.
It is important to avoid fertilizing trees and shrubs in late Summer to early Fall because it may result in a flush of tender new growth that may not have time to mature and will be suspectible to winter injury.
Fall fertilizer applications are good for root development and stored nutrients become available next Spring for new growth. Developing a stronger root system is important. Strong roots give the plant the ability to withstand stress during the season from drought, excess moisture, and heat.
Protect your investment in your landscape trees and shrubs with a fall fertilizer application this year.
The Good News
If you subscribe to the Hall | Stewart Tree & Shrub Care Program you will receive the important Fall fertilization application for your landscape plants. The program includes four regularly scheduled plant health care visits to keep your trees and shrubs healthy throughout the year:
Dormant oil application to smother overwintering insects.
Early Spring application of systemic insecticide and fertilizer.
Late spring to summer application to minimize insect and disease population during the growing season.
Fall fertilizer application.
All applications are tailored to your specific plant species.
If you have questions or need help understanding the fertilizer needs of your lawn and landscape, we would love to help.
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
Fall Irrigation Changes Coming Soon!
Yes, Fall Has Officially Arrived…
Yes, Your Lawn And Landscape Still Needs Moisture
The Problem: Our lawns and landscapes are stressed going into the time of year when they are most susceptible to damage.
The Current Condition: The last 365 days have been one of the driest any of us can remember. Even after the rain last week, we are still 12” below normal for annual rainfall. Another way to put it, over the last 365 days we have received 2/3 of our normal rainfall. Our lawns and landscapes are entering the time of year when soil moisture is important for plant survival, with very little soil moisture.
The Question: Since the weather is cooling and the growing season is coming to an end, is it time to turn my irrigation off for the season?
The Answer: Well, let’s have a visit...
One of the most important things you can do to have a healthy lawn and landscape is to align your watering habits with weather patterns.
Healthy irrigation is watering based on need.
Healthy irrigation is infrequent, deep watering.
Unhealthy irrigation is shallow, frequent watering.
Unhealthy irrigation is setting your irrigation in the spring on an ODD or EVEN setting and leaving it the same until you shut it off in the fall.
From lawns that are not irrigated, cores are shallow with bone dry soil. Sadly, we are finding similar cores in irrigated lawns with watering habits that are only keeping the top 1/4-1/2” moist.
From lawns that have been watered deeply and infrequently through the summer we are able to easily pull deep cores that have adequate soil moisture.
Through the summer months, we recommend your lawn and landscape receive 1 ½” of moisture per week.
Now that temperatures are starting to cool and day length is becoming shorter and shorter, your lawn and landscape needs less moisture but still needs moisture.
It’s not time to turn your irrigation off for the season, it is time to make sure your lawn and landscape are receiving at least 1” of moisture per week.
Irrigation systems with uneven water distribution issues are very noticeable this summer.
Follow these irrigation tips through the Fall:
Water Less Often – Don’t reduce the length of time each zone runs. Instead, water less often. Set your irrigation to run every 4 days instead of every other day.
Common question: “Should I reduce how long my system runs by 50% now?”
Answer: “No. Keep the run time the same and water less often.”
This fall instead of reducing how long a zone runs, water less often for the same amount of time you watered during the summer heat.
Water Deep, Not Shallow – Deep watering is important in every season. Shallow, frequent watering promotes shallow roots, increases weed content, promotes diseases, and reduces cold hardiness. If you can get 1” of water on your lawn in a single watering without causing excessive runoff, water just one time per week. But for most of our soils, you should plan on watering ½” twice per week. It is best to saturate the soil each time you water and then allow it time to dry before watering again.
Deep soaking, infrequent watering is an important best practice in developing a healthier, deep rooted lawn even in the fall.
Know How Long You Need To Water – One piece of information that will make a big difference in your watering decisions is knowing how much water your lawn and landscape is receiving each time you run your system. Place your Hall | Stewart Rain Gauge or any small container in your lawn. Run your system through a cycle and measure the amount of water in the container. If your system puts out ½” of water, watering every 4 days this fall is perfect. If it puts out less, don’t increase how often you water, instead, increase the amount of time each zone runs until your containers receive ½”.
If you have areas of your lawn that lost color during the heat and drought this year, checking the amount of water the area is receiving should be your first step. There is a good chance the area needs a head or nozzle adjustment.
Don’t assume that the way you have always set your irrigation is best. Do the work. Find out if your lawn is actually receiving the amount of water it needs to be healthy.
Water Based on Need – The perfect situation would be to inspect your lawn every few days and make watering decisions based on need. If the grass doesn’t spring back up after walking on it, it is time to water. If plant leaves start showing signs of wilt, it is time to water. Another easy test is to take a long screwdriver, if it slides easily into the soil, you don’t need to water. Remember, plants and turf will spring back quickly from slight wilt. They don’t recover quickly from being overwatered.
One of the best gifts you can give your lawn and landscape is to take a moment to inspect it each week.
Just a few minutes looking and asking yourself if everything looks healthy.
Just a few minutes of being proactive instead of reactive.
Water Based on Weather – Over the next 90 days, the average rainfall in the Oklahoma City area should total 8.5”. Your lawn and landscape will need 10-12” over the next 90 days. Pay attention to rainfall totals because once normal rain patterns return, there is a good chance your irrigation system can be in the off position more often than it is on.
https://mesonet.org/ is a great weather resource for making water decisions.
https://www.mesonet.org/index.php/weather/map/2-inch_fractional_water_index/soil_moisture will give you the amount of moisture in the top 2” of the soil. A reading of 1.0 tells you the soil contains all the moisture it can absorb, and any additional water will run off, a big waste of money and water. Through the fall and winter, anytime the soil moisture in your area is .5 or less, it is time to give your lawn and landscape a good deep watering.
A rain/freeze sensor will interrupt the watering cycle anytime it rains or if temperatures are below freezing.
A key to successful overseeding this fall is keeping the area tacky moist until the seed germinates.
Overseeding is the Exception to the Rule – If you are overseeding with fescue this fall, one of the keys to success is keeping the seeded area tacky moist until the seed germinates. Typically, this takes two weeks. We recommend setting the zones in the seeded areas to run three short cycles (3-10 minutes depending on type of head) per day: 4:00 AM, 10:00 AM, and 4:00 PM.
Tools to Improve Watering Efficiency:
Add A Rain/Freeze Sensor – A sensor will interrupt a run cycle when we have had enough rainfall. A rain/freeze sensor will pay for itself in water savings.
Add a Wi-Fi Link – Several of our customers have installed the Rainbird Wi-Fi Link and allowed us the ability to monitor their irrigation systems. Daily, we survey the Mesonet site for key weather data, make moisture-need decisions, and adjust systems. A rain sensor will stop a cycle, but with the Wi-Fi Link we can remotely adjust your system based on current weather data.
With the Rainbird Wi-Fi Link system, we are able to make adjustments to your system based on actual rainfall and moisture readings in your area.
The most critical step in successful fall establishment of fescue is keeping the seed moist until it germinates.
Tree Watering Tip – Trees planted in the last few years often need more water during periods of heat and drought than your irrigation system will supply. The goal is to give them 10 gallons per week. A simple way to ensure they are receiving enough water is to take a 5-gallon bucket and drill 3-5 small holes in the bottom. Place the bucket near the base of the tree, fill it with water, and allow the water to slowly soak into the soil. Repeat twice per week. (If you are concerned about the way it looks, use this trick overnight.)
Irrigation systems are great tools for maintaining great lawns and landscapes. But irrigation systems are not an asset when they are “set and left” with the same program in all seasons and all weather conditions.
Water Management Is Important: Landscapes in poor health will be the first to suffer during stressful weather periods this coming winter. A key to avoiding winter damage is to ensure your landscape receives adequate moisture this fall.
If you need help with watering issues, let us know. We would enjoy helping you manage your landscape’s water needs in the most economical and efficient ways.
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
Why a second Fall Pre-emergent is important
Finally, it is starting to feel like Fall around central Oklahoma!
The much-anticipated Fall weather forecast, with nights in the low 60s and days in the upper 70s, has arrived.
Something is refreshing about throwing on a sweatshirt after the string of 100+ degree days Oklahoma put together this summer.
As we adjust to cooler temperatures, so does your lawn. Warm season turf (bermuda & zoysia) starts to slow down as their rich green colors begin to fade. Cool-season turf (fescue & rye) starts rebounding from their summer off-season and returns to their deep green fall color.
Oh, and then there are the winter annual seeds camping out on your soil surface just waiting for the right soil temperature and soil moisture to come alive.
Human nature is to get all excited about having a great lawn and landscape in the spring. We all have grand ideas, high expectations of a perfect lawn, and start the season focused on winning the battle. Then summer sets in. A typical summer is a big enough challenge, let alone this summer’s heat and drought stress, and before long the lawn battle isn’t about winning anymore, but rather just surviving.
Let me give you the secret to winning the lawn battle in 2027…
It’s all about what you do this fall to prepare for next year’s lawn battle.
So, let’s talk for a few minutes about the most important thing you can do to prepare for next summer….
Without two fall pre-emergents this year your lawn has a very good chance of being littered with weeds next February and March.
Fall Pre-Emergent Applications
More specifically…Why your lawn needs a second fall pre-emergent!
What is the goal of fall pre-emergent herbicides?
Goal - Prevent winter annual weeds from germinating in your lawn this fall and over the winter.
Goal - A clean lawn throughout the winter and spring.
The most common winter annual weeds include henbit, chickweed, and poa annua. Each one of these has the ability to ruin the appearance of your lawn next spring if you skip fall pre-emergent applications.
Of the three most common winter annual weeds, poa annua is the most problematic.
Poa annua, commonly known as annual bluegrass, is the world’s most widespread weed.
Henbit is a winter annual broadleaf weed that germinates in the fall. Without fall pre-emergent applications you will have a carpet of weeds with purple flowers next March.
Annual bluegrass, poa annua, is a low-growing, lime green, clumping, grassy weed with small white flowers. It is very noticeable in dormant bermuda grass from late winter through spring.
Poa annua begins to germinate when we have our first fall cool spell and there is an abundance of moisture. When nighttime temperatures drop into the 60s and daytime temperatures stay under 85, annual bluegrass begins to germinate. (Typically, late September to early October). Optimal germination occurs once soil temperatures stay below 70 degrees for 4 consecutive days. (Commonly occurs by mid-October). The rest of the fall, winter, and spring, germination will continue, making poa annua a several-month-long battle.
Best Practices:
Apply the first round of fall pre-emergent herbicide between mid-August and early October.
Apply a second round of fall pre-emergent herbicide 6-8 weeks after the first application.
Poa annua thrives in thin turf. The best defense for prevention is to develop a healthy turf.
Poa Annua in Warm Season Turf (Bermuda & Zoysia) is most troublesome during the winter when poa annua is growing and seeding heavily, and turf is dormant. During the winter, it does not have to compete with warm-season turf for light, water, and nutrients, which allows it to spread quickly in untreated lawns.
Poa Annua in Cool Season Turf (Fescue & Rye) is not as prolific since the turf is growing and thick in the cool season, but poa annua can still distract from a beautiful turf in the spring when it is producing seed heads. Maintaining a thick and healthy fescue lawn is important in the prevention of poa annua. For this reason, overseeding fescue in the fall is an important step in creating a thick turf and eliminating thin spaces ripe for weed germination.
Most concerning is poa annua has been developing an increasing tolerance for many pre and post emergent herbicides.
Tolerance is the plant’s ability to survive and reproduce even though it has been treated with a herbicide.
Herbicide resistance in poa annua first developed in Japan in the 1980s, with the first occurrence in the US in Mississippi and Tennessee in 2004.
Poa annua is a clumping grassy weed with small white flowers.
Here are a few recommendations on how to best overcome annual bluegrass in your lawn:
Problem - A single fall application of a herbicide is not enough for the prevention of poa annua because germination can occur from September to March. Also, repeated use of the same herbicide will result in herbicide resistance.
First Solution – Our application #7, in October through November, is critical in the control of poa annua. This application contains a different fall pre-emergent herbicide than one applied from mid-August through September. Additionally, we use a herbicide in Application #7 that has post-emergent abilities on poa annua.
Second Solution – Application #1 in January and February contains herbicides for control of poa annua that can only be used on dormant warm-season turf grasses. Once we reach March, control of annual bluegrass is more difficult.
Poa annua will thrive in thin dormant turf during January and February without effective fall prevention.
Problem – Lawn care application effectiveness is reduced when the pre-emergent herbicide is not watered into the top 1” of the soil.
Solution – Always follow the watering instructions when we do a lawn care application, but especially when the application includes a pre-emergent. Pre-emergent herbicides are not effective at preventing germination when they remain on the soil surface. Effectiveness increases if the pre-emergent is watered into the soil. If you are applying your own pre-emergent herbicides, it is very important that you read and follow label directions.
Problem – Unhealthy, thin turf is a breeding ground for poa annua and many other weeds. Therefore, annual bluegrass is more of a problem in dormant warm season turf. Annual bluegrass also prefers compacted soil.
First Solution – Applications during the growing season for warm season turf contain fertilizer that thickens the turf reducing the area for poa annua seeds to germinate and develop in the fall.
Second Solution – Do not cut warm season turf short for the winter. Maintaining a healthy amount of top growth will inhibit some seeds from reaching the soil surface. Annual bluegrass is much more troublesome in short-cut, warm-season turf during dormancy.
Third Solution – Aeration in the early summer on warm season turf and in the fall on cool season turf will result in a thicker, healthier turf. Aeration will reduce compaction and strengthen the root system of your lawn by allowing air, nutrients, and water to reach the root system.
A second fall pre-emergent is an important step in making sure your lawn isn’t full of weeds in the late winter/early spring when the bermuda is dormant.
Maintaining a thick, healthy, properly maintained turf is a critical step in the prevention of weeds.
Heavy reliance on herbicides to control poa annua increases the likelihood that it will develop herbicide resistance, particularly if you are relying on a single fall pre-emergent application of the same herbicide year after year.
Effective prevention of poa annua is the result of two differing fall pre-emergent applications and a thick, healthy turf.
The steps to having a weed free fescue lawn next spring is overseeding this fall and fertilizer applications in the fall to create a thick lawn in the spring.
In the spring after lawns have greened up, controlling poa annua can be very difficult without damaging the turf.
Without two fall pre-emergent herbicide applications, poa annua will be prolific the next spring when the turf is coming out of dormancy.
The secret to a weed free Bermuda lawn next spring is two fall pre-emergent applications this fall, a pre & post emergent application next January through February, and good mowing, fertilizing, watering practices through the summer growing season to create a thick, healthy turf.
Our goal is to do all we can to strengthen your lawn and prevent winter annual weeds from littering your dormant lawn this winter.
We need your help:
Always follow watering instructions when applications are made to on your lawn.
Always maintain the proper mowing height based on time of season and turf type.
Always take both fall pre-emergent applications on bermuda or zoysia lawns.
Always fertilize on a regular schedule based on turf type to maintain a thick turf.
Add aeration to your annual services.
Add overseeding fescue in the fall to create a thick more weed resistant shady turf.
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
October Lawn & Landscape Tips
Come on fall…I know you are out there!
It is crazy how nice the upper 80’s and lower 90’s felt this week; temperatures still 10 degrees above typical for this time of year, but so much better than the upper 90’s and 100’s we experienced through the first three weeks of September.
As much as we are anticipating the cool evenings and pleasant days of fall, your lawn and landscape really are. Hey, we could escape inside. We could take a dip in a pool. Your poor trees, shrubs and turf were just stuck out there having to endure one of the hottest summers central Oklahoma has experienced.
But it’s coming to an end, even if it isn’t as fast as we would like it to.
Fall is a transition period for our lawn and landscapes.
Fall is also a restorative time, this year more than ever.
It’s time to turn our focus to restoring our lawns and landscapes.
Much of your lawn and landscape activities in October prepare your lawn and landscape for winter and set them up for success next season. But, good cultural lawn and landscape practices in the fall are also good recovery practices too - just what you need this year.
Here are a few things to stay focused on during October:
Watering
Lack of rainfall continues to the biggest problem of the past 12 months. Over the last 365 days the Oklahoma City metro has received 22.25” of rain, well short of the average, 36.5”. The best thing you can do to help your lawn and landscape recover is moisture. Until rain returns to our area, even with cooler temperatures the goal continues to be to get at least 1.5” of water on your lawn and landscape each week. If you are restricted by city restrictions, you can still achieve this with two good deep soakings per week. If you are limited by budget, if possible, try to give your lawn and landscape one good deep soaking of ½” per week.
Once rainfall returns, monitor rain weekly and supplement as needed to make sure your lawn and landscape are receiving at least 1” per week through the fall. Deep soaking every 4 days for established lawns and landscapes is the best practice. Newly planted fall seasonal color or new landscape plantings will need to be watered more often.
Moisture is important for plants as we head into the winter. For recovery, it is important that you don’t allow your landscape to experience additional drought stress through the winter.
Healthy lawns and landscapes with deep roots are the result of deep, infrequent watering, even in the fall.
Overseeding
We are right in the middle of the best time of the year to establish fescue from seed, September through October. This year, more than ever, fescue lawns need a refresh.
Remember, the keys to successful seeding are a quality certified seed, good seed-soil contact, and keeping the seed consistently moist until it germinates.
Most disappointments with overseeding are due to not keeping the seed consistently moist for two weeks until it germinates. The worse thing for new seed is for the seed to be moist, then dry out, then moist, and then dry out again. Pay extra attention to lawn edges where the soil dries quicker, and water coverage may not be perfect.
We started overseeding fescue on September 8th this year, a week later than typical, due to the extended heat. Lawns that have already been overseeded and have been kept consistently moist are seeing germination within 7-10 days. Lawns that have not been kept moist or have uneven water distribution have areas that are lagging. If you have areas that are struggling to germinate, supplemental watering in those areas will get the seed germinating.
For more information on overseeding, visit our article from September 6, Best Practices For Successfully Establishing Fescue.
Every year we discover lawns overseeded the same day in the same neighborhood experiencing different results.
The difference is if the seed has been kept moist or allowed to dry out between watering.
This fescue lawn was overseeded 2 weeks ago. The lawn was kept consistently moist resulting in successful germination. The lawn is watered with rotor-type heads on 25-30’ spacing which ran for approximately 10 mins 3x per day since seeding.
Successful fescue overseeding is less about the afternoon temperatures and more about consistent moisture. The irrigation system on this lawn was set to run at 4:00 AM, 10:00 AM & 4:00 PM. The zone has pop-up sprays on 12-15' centers. The zone was set to run 5 minutes each time it cycled. Picture taken three weeks after overseed.
Newly seeded fescue 14 days after germination.
How important is even water distribution when it comes to getting your fescue seed to germinate? Check out the pattern of ungerminated seed where the tree is blocking the water flow.
Fescue Lawn Maintenance
Healthy fescue lawns with strong root systems are starting to show signs of recovery. Fescue thrives as nighttime temperatures cool and day length shortens as long as they are receiving sufficient moisture.
The beauty of fescue in the fall is unsurpassed by any other turf grass.
Mow regularly through the fall and always avoid cutting more than 1/3 of the leaf blade off each time you mow.
It’s hard to beat the deep rich greens of fescue in October!
Japanese Maples return to bright red this month.
Lawn Fertilizer
Fertilize cool season lawns with a high nitrogen fertilizer this month. Fall is the best time to feed fescue. Full recovery of fescue this fall will be aided by restoring nutrients the turf needs.
If you have a bermuda lawn, put away the high nitrogen fertilizer for the season. Don’t be tempted to promote growth and add color for bermuda lawns, late nitrogen applications are considered a causal agent in the promotion of spring dead spot.
Bermuda Lawn Maintenance
Warm season lawns will begin to slow as the cooler nights of October set in. In a typical October, a bermuda lawn will need to be mowed no more than 2 or 3 times.
Avoid scalping the lawn short to finish off the season. Anytime grass is scalped, the plant uses nutrients stored in the roots to produce new leaf blades. Scalping in the fall will further weaken an already weak root system reeling from the stress of this summer’s heat and drought. Leaving your bermuda lawn at 2” to 2.5” during the dormant season gives your lawn a layer of protection against extreme cold temperatures and weed germination.
Bald Cypress turn a beautiful rusty red in October.
Turf Weed Control
Warm season lawns need two fall pre-emergent applications. If you have not applied the first fall pre-emergent yet, please do so as soon as possible. For the best prevention of fall and winter weeds the first application before soil temperatures consistently drop below 70. The current 3-day average soil temperature in the Oklahoma City metro is 74.
October through early December, a second, winter pre-emergent needs to be applied to keep your lawn weed free until next spring.
Because the best defense against weeds is a think turf, we do not recommend applying the early fall pre-emergent to fescue. Rather we believe it is more important to focus on turf development by overseeding. A thick and healthy fescue lawn will not struggle with poa annua and other winter weeds as much as one that is thin.
Fall is also a great time to control many broadleaf weeds in warm season turf and established cool season turf.
The best way to have a clean warm season lawn next spring is to apply two fall pre-emergent applications this fall, one early and one late.
The best way to have a clean cool season lawn next spring is to develop a thick turf through overseeding and fertilizing in the fall.
Spring Dead Spot
A common disease of bermuda lawns that is visible in the spring, but infection of the disease starts in the fall when soil temperatures drop below 70 degrees. Bermuda lawns that receive late season applications of nitrogen to extend color are more prone to the development of Spring Dead Spot. Effective fungicides for control are not available for homeowner use, but certified lawn care technicians have fungicides in the Fungicide Resistance Action Group available to treat for Spring Dead Spot. Two fall applications are required for the best results. The first application should be made when soil temperatures are in the low 70s with the second application 30 days later.
Spring dead spot damage is noticeable in the spring. If you have experienced this disease, now is the time to treat with a fungicide to stop the spread of the disease.
Maples are one of the first trees to celebrate fall.
Tree and Shrub Fertilizer
Do not fertilize trees and shrubs in October. Fertilizing now can encourage new growth that will not have an opportunity to harden off before the first freeze, which may result in plant damage. Wait until we receive our first heavy frost or light freeze before fertilizing.
Seasonal Color
Remove your summer annuals and replace with pansies, kale, and mums for great fall color this month. Pansies love the cool weather. Not only will they provide great color this fall, but if they are not allowed to dry out during the coldest periods of winter, they will offer a wonderful blast of color next March and April.
We covered fall seasonal color in more detail in our September 13, article Coming Soon to a Landscape Near You – Fall Seasonal Color.
October is the month to remove your summer annual color color and replace with pansies.
Nandina and many other shrubs add bright red berries to the landscape during the fall.
I’m looking forward to the bright October red of Boston Ivy.
Silhouette Sweetgum, a great tree for small spaces, will put on a great show late in October.
Fall seasonal color change.
Lantana will continue to add color to the landscape well into October.
Landscape Plantings
Fall is the best time to plant most container grown trees and shrubs. Because soil temperatures remain warm long after the days turn cooler, materials planted in the fall develop strong roots before the following summer heat arrives.
Often late spring and summer planted container materials don’t develop roots until the following summer.
Fall planted materials can gain an entire year of development over plants installed in the spring and summer. Wait to plant ball and burlapped trees until after the first freeze if possible.
For more information on why fall is the best time to plant, see our post from last week, Four Reasons Fall Is The Best Time To Plant.
Fall is the best time to add new plants to your landscape. Consider adding Pyracantha. It is a bold, upright shrub with an intense display of berries in the fall and small, white flowers in the spring. It is an excellent shrub used along a wall or fence as an espalier.
THE COLORS OF OCTOBER
Over the next few weeks Bald Cypress will add rusty orange shades to the landscape.
Autumn Blaze Maples will be one of the first trees to burst with color this month.
Pyracantha will add color to the landscape this month with bright reddish-orange berries.
Mums are the perennial stars of October.
If you leave your faded blooms on your Endless Summer Hydrangeas they will turn a vibrant pink this month.
Purple Muhly Grass is a cool season ornamental grass that graces October with purple feathery plumes.
Mums
Oak Leak Hydrangeas are also known to brighten the October landscape with hues of red.
Pansies will replace the colors of summer this month in your seasonal color plantings.
Burr Oak
Autumn Blaze Maple
Euonymus Burning Bush will be an eye catcher in late October.
Don’t lose your focus on good lawn and landscape practices as the season slows down. If you threw in the towel this summer, don’t wait until the spring to get back in the battle. Your efforts this month will not only reward you now but will also set your lawn and landscape up for a great spring.
How well your lawn and landscape stand up to the next high stress environmental event greatly depends on developing the best horticultural practices in every season.
If you have questions or need help with any lawn and landscape needs, simply respond to this email or give us a call at (405)367-3873.
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
Four reasons fall is the best time to plant
Last week, we visited about fall seasonal color.
This week, we are talking about fall planting.
Is anyone wondering if we think that if we talk enough about fall, fall will actually happen?
Well, at this point we are willing to try anything to end summer and start fall.
Hey, the first day of fall, the Autumn Equinox, is this Tuesday.
Maybe that’s it…Fall is waiting for the official first day to start?
Hardy Hibiscus is a large, shrub type perennial with large flowers through the heat of summer.
Pyracantha is an old fashioned shrub with bright orange to red berries in the fall and winter.
There are a lot of trees, shrubs, perennials, and groundcover that have suffered through the heat and drought of the Summer of ’26. Extreme weather patterns, any extreme weather pattern…hot too long, cold too long, dry too long, too much rain…any extreme weather has a way of finding the weaker plants.
The weaker plant may be a plant that is marginal in our climate but does well as long as our weather is moderate. The weaker plant may be one that wasn’t as healthy as you thought it was and when the heat and drought extended through August and into September, they were done.
Many shrubs and trees that have thrived for years have struggled this summer. One example is this yew. It is planted where it receives some afternoon sun and always looked healthy. This year with the extended heat, the plant needles appear burnt and have turned brown. This one will recover. But if you have a shrub that will not recover, fall is the time to replace it.
A plant that usually does well in our area but has struggled this summer is the arborvitae. No doubt many will need to be replanted this fall.
For whatever reason, if you have plants that did not survive the summer, fall is the time to replace them.
But, isn’t spring the best time to plant?
Spring is when we all get the bug to add something new to our landscape.
Spring is when garden centers are loaded with colorful plants just begging us to take them home.
The belief that spring is the best time to add new shrubs and trees to your landscape is a myth.
Limelight Hydrangeas brighten the late summer landscape with white blooms that fade to like green.
Four reasons why fall is the best time to plant:
1. Warm Soil Equals Root Growth
Soil temperatures remain warm well into the fall and early winter resulting in root development. Shrubs and trees put their energy into growing roots more in the fall than any other time of the year. Fall planted landscape materials have more time for the root system to become established before the onset of summer heat. Plants installed in the spring don’t have the root system needed for growth and spend the first summer just trying to survive.
Ebony Fire Red Crape Myrtle with intense, black foliage, is a fun twist on a traditional plant. Ebony and Ivory is a white blooming black leaf Crape Myrtle.
Peonies, a perennial, puts on a dynamic burst of color in mid spring with large blooms that are great for cut flowers.
3. Fall Weather Brings More Moisture
Spring and summer planted shrubs and trees require supplemental, deep soaking during the summer. During the summer, newly planted trees and shrubs need at least 2” of moisture per week. But, during the fall and winter, when temperatures are cooler, plant materials require a lot less moisture, only ½ to 1” of moisture per week, which is much more likely to occur naturally. During the summer, chances are you will be spending time hand watering a spring planted landscape just trying to keep it alive.
Plant a Japanese Maple this fall and have more red in your landscape next spring when leaves emerge.
4. Head Start on Next Year
This is the biggest reason you should plant in the fall…. Fall planted materials can gain an entire year of development over spring and summer planted shrubs and trees. Fall plants will start developing roots soon after planting. Next spring and summer they will have a root system that will produce top growth. Spring and summer planted materials produce little growth until they develop roots in the fall. It has been my experience that most 3-gallon shrubs planted in the fall will be the same size as a 5-gallon shrub planted in the spring after one season. Save money. Plant in the fall.
Crape Myrtles planted in the fall will bloom more their first season than ones planted in the spring or summer.
Limelight Hydrangea adds large white blooms to the late summer landscape.
A great evergreen shrub for shady areas is the Japanese Yew.
Goldmound Spirea is very similar to Limemound only with yellow-gold foliage.
Wisteria produces showy clusters of fragrant purple flowers. Great for training on an arbor, trellis or fence.
Thinking of adding a row of shrubs to your landscape? Save money by using a smaller size in the fall. Often they will catch up in size the next spring.
Rose of Sharon is a blooming large shrub to small tree that adds a soft color to the summer landscape. Blooms range from white, pink, and purple shades.
Plant perennials in the fall for great early blooms next spring.
Limemound Spirea returned to my favorite list this year for their hardiness and the interest they add to the landscape with their soft pink blooms and light green color.
2. Cool Days Are Less Stressful
Warm days are hard on all plants and are particularly hard on the newly planted. New shrubs and trees have a limited root system that struggles to support plant leaves in the heat resulting in desiccated, burnt leaves.
When azalea are planted in the fall, they establish roots and bloom well next spring.
Japanese Maples add bright red leaves to the spring landscape.
Looking to add more spring color to your landscape? Add an Oklahoma Redbud to your landscape this fall or winter.
Planting creeping phlox this fall will give you a carpet of color in the spring.
Big Blue Liriope with spikes of purple-blue flowers in the late summer is a good ground-cover for both shady and full sun landscapes.
Madame Galen Trumpet Vine produces bright flowers through the summer. Great for covering fences and climbing on arbors.
Endless Summer Hydrangeas start blooming in May and rebloom through the summer.
In the fall, blooms left on Endless Summer Hydrangeas turn brilliant pinkish red.
Looking for cascade white blooms in your spring landscape? Add a Bridal Wreath Spirea this fall.
Plant a Double Play Candy Corn Spirea this fall and you will enjoy bright shades of yellow, orange and red next spring.
Yes, with good care and extra attention most shrubs and trees can be planted year-round, and because they can, it is common to plant at any time.
But, the best time to add new plants to your landscape in Oklahoma is September through December. For deciduous trees, the best time to plant is during winter dormancy, November through February.
Your landscape has a big impact on your property value and greatly impacts your curb appeal.
Plant something new this fall.
You won’t be disappointed.
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
Time To Overseed Your Fescue!
September through October is the best time to establish fescue from seed. Following this summers prolonged heat and drought it is more important than ever to refresh your fescue. AND IT IS NOT TOO EARLY TO OVERSEED!
We started overseeding September 8th. The picture is from a lawn overseeded on September 11th. While soil temperatures are still warm fescue seed germinates and establishes quickly. As temperatures cool the new fescue will develop the deep roots needed to survive next summer.
Coming soon to a landscape near you -- Fall Seasonal Color!
Wow, how nice did Thursday feel!
A little rain, temperatures in the 80s and everyone had a smile on their face. The first day of cooler temperatures after a summer filled with way too many 100 degree days and weeks without any rain sure has a way of lifting one’s spirits.
Thursday actually gave me hope that summer really is going to end and the cooler days of fall are really going to happen this year.
Not only have lawns, trees and shrubs struggled through the long run of 100 degree plus days, but your summer seasonal color has too. If your landscape is anything like mine, some of your ‘tried and true’, always plant, summer annual color was a big disappointment this summer.
The current appearance of many summer seasonal color plantings in central Oklahoma suggest it is time to cry ‘Uncle!’ and move on to next…next…
Next up for your landscape…. Fall Seasonal Color!
Before you get too excited about replanting your annual color beds, do me one favor first: grab your Seasonal Color Journal (you have one, right?) and make a few notes about this summer. What took the heat well? What did you plant in full sun, like you do every summer, only to discover this summer they really needed a break from the hot afternoon sun? What did you discover needed more water than you expected? And, take lots of pictures to go along with your notes.
A few pictures from our Summer Color Journal:
Mezoo, a low growing, trailing succulent loved the hot summer.
Sun Coleus is a summer favorite for bold foliage. This year the Sun Coleus planted where it received hot afternoon sun was thin and faded. The Sun Coleus receiving morning and afternoon sun looks as stunning as ever.
A ‘True & Tested’ favorite for a hot summer is Lantana.
Penta, another summer hot weather annual, performed well where it was out of the hot evening sun looks great. Some Penta planted in the hot afternoon sun struggled.
Periwinkle, an old fashioned, summer annual was one of the best this summer.
Joseph’s Coat took the summer heat well.
What big difference between the Summer of ‘25 and the Summer of ‘26. My go to summer shade color planting is Caladiums and Impatiens. They are always stunning. Well, almost always! This year they didn’t survive the heat.
Sunpatiens (picture from Summer of ‘25 because I didn’t have any survive the Summer of ‘26) has been a summer color I have used more and more the past couple of summers. Lesson from this summer: If the summer is a recorded setting summer for 100 degree days, it may not be the best summer color.
Done? Good. Let’s start talking about fall seasonal color…
Seasonal Color Defined:
The planting of annual (plants that only last one season) flowers in the landscape to add a seasonal accent of color. Annual color can have more impact in the landscape than any other design element. Seasonal color plantings can be large and bold, or they can be small plantings near the front door or planted on the edge of the patio to catch your attention, or they can be as simple as a few colorful landscape pots welcoming guests to your home. The key is to only plant as much color as you can adequately care for. Seasonal color, large or small, is a statement piece in your landscape.
Fall seasonal color options:
A key to pansies surviving the winter is moisture. A good deep soaking once per week in the winter will help them overwinter.
Pansies
How ironic! The cool season annual that is the toughest…the best at surviving the cold of winter is called a Pansy! Planting pansies this fall will add vibrant yellows, blues, purples, oranges, whites, and reds to your landscape for 7-8 months. The key to pansies surviving the winter is keeping the plants from being bone dry when cold fronts arrive. Pansies love fertile, well-drained soil. For the best results add compost to the soil when planting. For the best show, plant on 6” centers. Pansies are available with a clear face or with a blotch. I love both but enjoy the added color contrast you get with the blotch.
Use seasonal color as a welcoming statement for your guests.
Mums
They are actually a perennial but can double as an annual for dramatic color during October and November. They are traditionally used in pots and overlooked as a bedding plant. Use mums in the landscape for bold, eye-catching color. An added bonus – after the blooms fade, transfer the plants to a place where they will accent the landscape as a perennial in the coming springs and falls.
Kale riding out an ice storm.
When you use mums as perennials they add a splash of color to your fall landscape.
Kale and Ornamental Cabbage
A leafy annual that adds texture along with hues of purples, pinks, and whites to the fall landscape. Most winters kale and cabbage will add interest to the landscape through the holidays and occasionally into the spring. Just like pansies, the most damaging thing you can do is allow the soil to be dry when cold spells sweep in.
Pansies, kale and mums make a great combination for your fall landscape containers.
Bulbs: Tulips, Daffodils and Hyacinths
Not fall color, but they must be planted in the fall for color next spring. We will spend more time talking about spring flower bulbs later, but now is the time to start making your plans. Bulbs put on their best show in the spring when they are planted with several bulbs together in a group.
Spring flowering bulbs aren’t fall color, but you have to plan for them now and plant them in them in November for a spring show.
It’s still too early to plant spring-blooming tulip bulbs, but it isn’t too early to start planning your color scheme and where you are going to plant bulbs.
Tip - For the best color show, limit mums and/or kale to 20% or less of your planting. Because of the short bloom time of mums and the chance kale will not last until spring, you will limit your spring color show if you have too much of them. Or, plant your spring bulbs in the same area as your mums and kale. The bulbs will fill the void with a burst of color next spring.
Your lawn and landscape assignment for this week…
Document your summer seasonal color.
Plan your October seasonal color change.
Remember…Great landscapes should include plants that add color and interest in every season!
You really don’t want to be without color for the next 7-8 months, do you?
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
A blanket of pansies with kale. In this landscape tulip bulbs are planted in November every year in the area of the kale to add more color next spring.
Best Practices for Successfully Establishing Fescue
The Summer of ’26 continues to climb up the rankings as one of the hottest and driest for the Oklahoma City metro. Take a stroll through any neighborhood and you will see the proof. Soil moisture disappeared weeks ago leaving many lawns and landscapes looking more like a desertscape than a typical Oklahoma landscape.
The problem is not just the heat stress your lawn and landscape is feeling, but the drought stress as well. In the last 6 weeks (42 days), only 9 days have not topped 100 degrees. In the same 6 weeks, most of the metro has had only a .25” of rain.
It is the combination of the prolonged heat and the drought that has been so hard on your lawn and landscape. If we were having 100 degree days and had anything close to the average August rainfall of 3.25”, our lawns and landscape would be looking fine going into fall. Or, if August temperatures had consistently dropped to the mid-70s at night while topping off at 95 in the afternoons, even with below normal rainfall, staying caught up on the watering would have been much easier.
The turf that has taken the combination of heat and drought the hardest is fescue. Fescue, a cool season grass, goes into heat stress when temperatures are consistently over 90. When fescue is experiencing heat stress, it can no longer grow normally and is dependent upon energy the turf has stored in its root system.
What we have witnessed this summer as the tough conditions have persisted without any periods of reprieve is less mature fescue lawns, fescue lawns without good watering practices, and fescue lawns with unhealthy soil have suffered the most. While fescue lawns that have been overseeded most falls for several years, fescue lawns that are watered with deep soaking techniques, and fescue lawns with well balanced, healthy soil are surviving the Summer of ’26.
But, even if this summer had been more average in either heat or rainfall, fescue still goes through a summer offseason. July and August are never the best months for fescue. Fescue, because it is a cool season grass, will always be a little off in the heat of summer. Fescue lawns are the best-looking lawns March through June and again through the fall, while bermuda lawns win the “best looking” award in the heat of the summer.
So, whether your fescue has struggled through this summer or whether it is hanging on, the absolute best time to refresh fescue is an 8-week window starting now through the end of October. Nighttime temperatures are starting to decrease, and day length is becoming shorter, signaling the start of the overseed season. The goal is to have germination and root development before the colder temperatures of November arrive.
If you are disappointed in your fescue this summer, now is not the time to throw in the towel.
Now is the time to action, overseed your fescue, and reclaim the lawn you want.
As the temperature cools and moisture returns, fescue lawns will regain cooler and health.
Small, shady areas in your lawn where there is low air movement and shade are prime candidates for annual fall seeding with fescue.
It has been common to find stressed areas of fescue from uneven water distribution this summer.
If you have heavily shaded areas it is common to need to overseed in the fall, regardless of the summer weather conditions.
Fescue is the best turf grass for areas of your lawn that receive dappled sun. Bermuda needs at least 6 hours per day of direct sun light.
It has been a stressful summer for fescue. Fall is the best time to reclaim your fescue areas by overseeding.
Who should plan on overseeding with fescue this fall?
If you have areas of your lawn where the bermuda has thinned because of shade, you should seed this fall. Bermuda needs at least 6 hours of direct sunlight for the best performance. Less than 6 hours of direct sunlight and bermuda starts to thin. Fescue is the turfgrass option for shady areas of your lawn.
If you have fescue areas that have become thin because of brown patch earlier in the summer, or the heat and drought of the last 7 weeks, you should seed this fall.
If you just want to keep your fescue thick and healthy, you should seed this fall. Fescue doesn’t spread like bermuda with runners across the top of the soil. Fescue spreads through tillering through the soil and putting up new vertical shoots. Fescue spread is slow and often rare in the transition zone in which we live. To keep a fescue lawn at its best, adding more seed is common. Our best fescue lawns are overseeded every fall.
If you want to have a green lawn longer into the fall and earlier in the spring, you should seed this fall. Fescue is a cool season grass and stays green and active into early December and recovers from the winter in early March. With a fescue lawn, it is common to have a green lawn 10 out of 12 months.
For more information on using fescue in your lawn, visit our July 26th post: Bermuda vs Fescue – The Choice is Yours!
This fall is the best time to repair fescue areas that were damaged during this summer’s heat and drought.
Fescue is commonly thought of as a shade grass. But fescue grown using the best maintenance and lawn care practices can thrive in full sun.
4 Best Practices for Successfully Establishing Fescue
Best Practice #1 – Seeding fescue in the fall.
Because fescue is a cool season grass, there are two times per year you can plant fescue seed; Fall (September through October) and Spring (March to early April).
If you wait until spring to seed fescue, you are seeding at the second-best time and there is an enormous chasm between the establishment of fescue now (the best time) and next spring (the second-best time).
Spring seeded fescue will come up great, but it rarely establishes enough root system to make it through the summer heat (fescue’s off season).
Fall seeded fescue has all fall, winter, and spring to establish a root system before enduring the heat of July and August.
Don’t fail at establishing fescue – seed in the fall, not the spring.
Best Practice #1 – Seeding fescue in the fall.
Fescue refreshed with a September overseeding will look like be full and a rich green color in October.
Best Practice #2 – Good Seed to Soil Contact
Good seed to soil contact is important. If you sow seed over the existing soil without some preparation, the chance of a successful seeding is greatly reduced. Research shows the percentage of germination decreases dramatically when seed is just sown on top of the ground.
You will have success if you start by cutting the existing turf short to remove excess grass. Then loosen the soil to create good seed to soil contact.
This bermuda lawn is being cut short in preparation of overseeding it with fescue for the first time.
The lawn was being maintained at 3”.
Cutting it to 2” will improve the seed to soil contact and increase the success of the first time overseed.
Aeration is an important step in establishing good seed to soil contact. Good seed to soil contact and keeping the area moist are two keys two keys to success seeding.
Aeration is the best method to loosen the soil and gain good seed to soil contact. Aerating also gives you the extra benefit of improving the soil structure, increasing water absorption, and developing deeper roots.
Give more attention to bare areas and the edges. Rough up the areas with a rake.
Rototilling isn’t necessary but breaking the surface of the soil in bare areas is needed.
In areas that are completely bare, spread a thin layer of peat moss over the surface after seeding to increase the seed to soil contact.
If overseeding an existing fescue area with a good stand of grass, spread seed at a rate of 6-8 pounds per 1,000 square feet.
If establishing a new fescue lawn, spread seed at a rate of 10-12 pounds per 1,000 square feet.
Best Practice #2 – Good Seed to Soil Contact
Best Practice #3 – Keep the Seed Tacky Moist Until It Germinates
The first two are very important, but this one is critical for success.
Nothing will deliver you a losing hand quicker than not keeping the seed moist. You can get the first two best practices correct and have complete failure if the seeded area is not kept moist until new grass is visible in the entire area.
Even water distribution is important in keeping the seed tacky moist until it comes up. Check your system. Look for areas where there isn’t complete head to head coverage. The result will be poor germinate around the sprinkler head.
This picture 14 days after seeding demonstrates how critical moisture is to seed germination. The seed in the area where the irrigation does not reach has not germinated at all while the moist areas are nearly fully germinated.
When you keep the seeded area consistently tacky moist you will seed germination within 7-14 days. Best practice is to water the area 3 short cycles per day.
The worst thing you can do is water the seeded area, allow it to dry completely, water again, allow it to dry completely, repeat, repeat, repeat… After a couple of times of drying out completely, the seed will no longer be viable.
For the best success, set your irrigation to run 3 short cycles per day. Set spray type zones to run 3-5 minutes each time. Set rotor type zones to run 7-10 minutes each time. If possible, set the system to run early morning (4:00 AM), late morning (10:00 AM), and mid-afternoon (4:00 PM).
You don’t have to have an irrigation system to establish fescue. Just be diligent at keeping the seed moist with short waterings.
Best Practice #3 – Keep the Seed Tacky Moist Until It Germinates
Best Practice #4 – Invest in a Quality Seed
Fescue was first introduced in the US from Europe in the 1800s as pasture grass. Kentucky-31 Tall Fescue was developed in the 1940s as an improved pasture grass and introduced to the home turf market in the 1960s by Pennington Seed.
What is the point of the seed history lesson?
If you are buying Kentucky-31 Tall Fescue, you are buying an 80-year-old product when there are over 300 improved fescue varieties that offer darker green color, narrower blades, and improved tolerance to heat, cold, drought and disease. Kentucky-31 is marginally acceptable as a lawn grass that tends to become thin and clumpy.
No matter the name on the bag of the seed, any improved variety will outperform Kentucky-31.
We believe using a blend is best when seeding fescue. Blends are a combination of two or more varieties within the same species, such as two or more fescues in one mix. Blends are a combination of the best species, tested over time, for the best shade tolerance and disease resistance. The number one problem with fescue is brown patch disease. The best blends use fescue varieties that show strong resistance to brown patch. Also, some blends will contain bluegrass and, or rye for even more vibrant spring color.
Best Practice #4 – Invest in a Quality Seed
All seed grown in Oregon is certified. Buy it when possible.
When purchasing seed look for a blend with fescue varieties that score high in the NTEP trials for heat, drought, and disease resistance.
Two things that will make a seed more expensive, but at the same time a great value, “0% Weed Seed” and “Treated with Gravity SL PGS”.
Gravity SL PGS is a growth stimulant that greatly increases germination rates and root development.
Fescue can be grown successfully in Oklahoma. Even during a hot and dry summer, there are examples of great fescue lawns in every neighborhood. And for the fescue lawns that showed stress this summer, surprisingly most will show signs of a rebound with slightly cooler temperatures and moisture.
Successful fescue lawns are the result of best seeding practices, best cool season turf maintenance practices, and persistence.
But, more importantly, they are a result of different thinking. Establishing and maintaining a fescue lawn requires a different approach.
Even with the excessive heat and drought of this summer, mature fescue lawns with the best watering practices and healthy soil have survived.
Bonus Best Practice
Don’t apply a fall pre-emergent before seeding. The same pre-emergent herbicide that prevents weeds will prevent fescue from germinating. Wait until after the new fescue has been mowed 2-3 times before putting a pre-emergent on the lawn.
Special Note: DO NOT use pre-emergent herbicides now in
areas that are going to be seeded this fall.
If you need assistance in establishing a fescue lawn or have questions about fescue, give us a call…(405) 367-3873.
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
September Lawn & Landscape Tips
With the heat and drought of the Summer of ’26 still maintaining a strong hold on the Oklahoma City metro area, I am having a hard time believing that September arrives this Tuesday.
Even harder to believe is that September is the transition month from summer to fall! Fall still feels so far away.
We often talk about weather, environmental conditions, being one of the three legs of the stool when it comes to having a great lawn and landscape. The other two being mechanical issues (mowing, aerating, etc.) and applications (fertilizer, weed control, insect and disease control). This summer the environmental leg has been a struggle. The Summer of ’26 is going to be remembered as one of the Top 10 hottest as well as one of the driest. The cooler days of fall, and hopefully the return of moisture, can’t arrive soon enough.
As summer begins to fade in the next couple of weeks, it is time to turn our focus toward the lawn and landscape activities of fall.
September lawn and landscape activities will make a big difference in the success of your landscape not only this fall, but also next spring.
For your lawn and landscape, it is important to finish the year strong and get a head start on next year by checking off these lawn and landscape activities during September:
Overseed
If you have a cool season lawn (fescue), September through October is the time to add more seed (overseed). Fall is by far the most successful time to establish cool season turf. Fescue seeded this fall will have stronger roots next summer when the heat returns.
If you have not already, inspect your fescue in the next few days. If there are thin areas due to dense shade, brown patch damage, or areas damaged by a lack of moisture during the heat, plan on overseeding this fall.
Also, look for areas of the lawn that have become too shady for bermuda. Bermuda needs at least 6 hours of direct sunlight for the best performance. The key words are “direct sunlight.” Dappled sunlight is not “direct sunlight.” Anything less than 6 hours of full sunlight and bermuda will begin to thin.
Sooner or later, you will have to introduce fescue in your lawn if you have trees. Success is easier if you start the process before the bermuda has completely faded.
Fescue is also a good choice for the narrow side areas of houses where the turf only receives a few hours of direct sun each day.
What are the keys to successful seeding? Good seed soil contact, a quality fescue blend, and keeping the seeded area tacky moist until the seed germinates.
Need help evaluating shady areas of your lawn, schedule a lawn evaluation by responding to this email or call (405)367-3873.
If you are overseeding with fescue this fall, even water distribution is a critical step to success. If you have dry areas in your irrigation system, make repairs before seeding.
One of the keys to successfully seeding shady areas is a quality seed. We believe in using a fescue blend containing varieties that have a history of performing well in Oklahoma.
Fescue in late September last year after being overseeded in early September.
Fall seeded fescue lawns result in the best cool season lawns next spring.
Overseeded fescue 14-21 days after seeding.
Fall is the best time to seed shady areas of your lawn with fescue.
Newly seeded fescue two weeks after seeding.
If your fescue has areas that did not handle the heat and drought well this summer, September and October is the best time to overseed fescue.
Fall Pre-emergent & Post-Emergent
Winter annual weeds germinate as temperatures cool. Poa annua, annual bluegrass, is the first to germinate, followed by henbit and chickweed. These are the weeds that will keep you from having a clean landscape next January through April. When you skip the fall pre-emergent applications, you will be forced to use harsher products next spring to clean up the turf when you should be focused on developing a lush green turf. For the best results, a fall pre-emergent should be applied to your lawn before the end of September. Also, many bi-annual weeds, such as dandelions, are easier to control in the fall.
Note: DO NOT use pre-emergent herbicides now in areas that are going to be seeded this fall.
The use of nitrogen fertilizer after September 15th, often in an attempt to keep Bermuda green longer in the fall, will enhance spring dead spot disease next year.
Lawn Fertilizer
When you fertilize and what you put on your warm season (bermuda and zoysia) lawns in September is critical to the health of your lawn. High nitrogen fertilizer should not be applied to warm season turf after mid-September. Applications of high nitrogen fertilizer 6 weeks before winter dormancy reduces winter hardiness and promotes spring dead spot disease. Typically, winter dormancy for bermuda in central Oklahoma begins in early November. Potassium is important for cold tolerance and disease control, but because potassium stays in the soil longer, a soil test is recommended before applying high amounts of potassium.
During September and October, we adjust the fertilizer to match weather forecast and soil conditions to insure bermuda lawns have strong root systems, are winter hardy and are positioned to start next year strong.
Fall is the best time to apply higher nitrogen fertilizer to fescue lawns. Plan on getting the first fall feeding on fescue this month. Because fescue is a cool season grass, it benefits from more nitrogen in the fall. Even if you will be overseeding your fescue this fall, it is important to get fertilizer on the existing fescue this month.
Mowing
Continue to mow often enough that you are removing no more than 1/3 of the blade of grass with each cutting. For warm season turf, maintain the height at or near 2 – 2 1/2” going into the fall. Avoid cutting short or scalping warm season lawns at this time. Anytime you cut below the leaf space and into the stems of the plant, you are causing stress. The plant will use nutrients stored in the root system to generate new leaves. At this time of the season, you don’t want to cause any stress that would require the lawn to use nutrients stored for the winter.
For cool season, it is best to cut the lawn shorter before seeding. This will increase seed to soil contact. After the new seed starts growing, gradually increase mowing height to 3”.
When you cut below the leaf blade into the stem your Bermuda lawn will have a scalped, brown appearance.
When you don’t mow your Bermuda too low in the fall, it will develop a stronger root system for the winter months.
Watering
As long as 90-100 degree days are in the forecast, continue to make sure your lawn and landscape receives at least 1.5” of water per week.
As nights and days begin to cool and day length shortens, your landscape will need less water. Responsible watering is based on seasonal temperatures and moisture. Once temperatures cool and moisture returns to the environment, you can start reducing the number of days you water. It is always best to maintain deep soakings and reduce the frequency. At some point this month, it may be best to water every 4 days rather than on the odd/even plan.
Continue to water trees planted in the last 12-18 months more than you water your lawn through the fall. Supplemental watering is critical for new additions to the landscape. Place a water hose at the base of the tree with the water flowing at a slow trickle for a couple of hours once per week. The goal is to get 10 gallons of water to the roots every week.
Maintain good soil moisture through September. The goal is to have moist soil 6-12” deep. If you have dry soil like the core in this picture you are allowing your lawn to go into the winter in a stressed condition.
Fall webworm can cause damage. When possible, pruning out the infected area is the best method of control.
If you have turf areas that have turned brown it may not be lack of moisture. If the turf easily pulls up like a piece of sod, most likely the problem is grub worm damage.
Webworm
Watch for fall webworm in your trees. Webworms create webbing on the ends of tree branches as the worm devours the leaves. Webworms can have more than one generation per season. The earlier generations do not cause lasting damage. But, the last generation can result in branch die back. To treat with an insecticide, you must penetrate the webbing. The most effective approach of control is to monitor trees and prune out the web areas while they are small. Place webbing in a plastic bag and dispose of it immediately. If you leave the branches on the ground, you will be amazed at how quickly the worms will be back in the tree.
Grub worm
Grubs are a white, C-shaped insect with a chestnut-colored head and 3 pairs of legs. They feed on grass roots of all types of turf resulting in yellowing, wilting turf, dead patches, and when left unchecked they will destroy the grass roots to the point that your lawn can be rolled like it is a piece of carpet.
Early indications of grub damage may include patchy areas of wilting, discolored or stressed turf resembling drought stress. As the grubs continue to destroy roots, the patches expand outward into irregular shaped patches of dying turf. Often grubs will start out centralized in an area but will spread through an entire lawn when left untreated. An indication you have white grubs (often before you have any idea you have a grub problem) is damage caused by armadillos, skunks, possums, and raccoons foraging for grubs.
August through September grubs are in the first stage of their life cycle. They are small and feeding near the soil surface, growing rapidly, and can do a lot of damage.
If you have discolored, stressed turf that easily pulls up as if it was a fresh laid piece of sod, or you are experiencing turf damage from an armadillo, skunk, possum or raccoon, it is important to apply a curative Grub Control Treatment as soon as possible.
Think your lawn has a grub problem? Give us a call, (405)367-3873!
Fall Color
As the hottest part of the summer transitions to more moderate conditions summer color that survived the summer will gain vibrancy in September before it begins to fade later in the month.
If you haven’t already, create a summer landscape journal. Grab a few minutes and take pictures of your landscape while the color is still strong. Jot down a few notes about plants that did well, plants you liked, plants that were just so-so, and list a few you would like to add to your landscape next year.
Next spring you will be glad to have the information when you make summer landscape plans. Too often we get excited about a plant that looks great in May only to have it disappoint when the heat is on in July and August.
Toward the end of the month or early October you will want to replace your summer annuals with cool season annuals. Pansies, mums, and kale are the dominate players. Use more pansies than mums and kale since pansies typically overwinter and flourish the following spring.
The Colors of September
Start making plans to replace your summer color with cold hardy annuals, such as pansies, later this month or early next month.
Another great summer color performer this summer was lantana.
Hamelin Grass loads up with plums during September.
If you resisted the urge to prune what appeared spent blooms on your hydrangeas earlier in August, now you are getting to enjoy rosy pink shades late in the summer.
Before the end of September perennial mums in the landscape will announce the arrival of fall.
Crape Myrtle, our longest blooming plant, will continue to put on a show through September.
For as long as the weather stays warm, tropical hibiscus will continue to produce big bright blooms.
A favorite splash of color every September is the orange to red berries of pyracantha.
Liriope one of the easiest ground covers to grow puts on blue to purple flowers spikes in late summer.
A great late summer addition to the landscape are many of the warm season ornamental grasses.
One of the best summer seasonal color performances through this summer’s heat was periwinkle.
Summer loving lantana will continue to bloom through September.
Abelia is often graces the late summer with white flowers.
If you haven’t taken pictures and made notes of your best summer color this year, do so in the next couple of weeks.
Just how brutal has the heat been this summer? For years I have planted the same seasonal color: impatiens and caladiums. It has always been spectacular, until this year.
A fun September blooming perennial is Autumn Sage
Crape Myrtles have put on a great color show through the heat of this summer.
Soon we will be talking about how much we love the cooler days of September. Trees, shrubs and flowers will appear more vibrant, and fescue lawns will return to their grander.
The changing of seasons… What a wonderful time of the year!
Our goal, as always, is to help you have your best lawn and landscape.
If you need assistance with any of the September lawn and landscape tasks, or have questions concerning your lawn and landscape, give us call… (405) 367-3873.
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
What is your lawn doing for you?
Having your best lawn and landscape has been a real struggle through the Summer of ’26.
This week it officially became Oklahoma City’s hottest summer in the last decade. With another week of August yet to come, we are flirting with it being one of the hottest and driest Augusts in Oklahoma City history.
The last time the entire metro area received good rainfall was six weeks ago, July 11th. Every month in 2026 rainfall has come up short and we are now over 10” behind on rainfall in the last 12 months.
Is it worth it? Is having a great lawn and landscape worth it?
Why are we all trying so hard when it feels like we are losing the battle to heat and drought stress?
If you missed our post from two weeks about on battling drought and heat stress, take a minute to read https://www.hallstewart.com/hsblog/battling-drought-heat-stress-in-the-lawn-and-landscape.
We believe it is worth it! Why?
It is worth it because of all that a healthy lawn does for us!
Have you ever pondered what a healthy lawn does for you?
When it comes to the benefits of turfgrass most people don’t give it much thought.
The environmental benefits of a healthy lawn are seldom considered.
Can you answer the question, “What is your lawn doing for you?”
Let’s explore a few things your lawn is doing for you:
Turfgrass captures carbon.
Healthy lawns absorb carbon dioxide and replace it with oxygen. A lawn is simply a grouping of thousands of oxygen making plants.
The average, managed lawn captures more carbon than a lawnmower produces.
The average lawn captures 300 lbs. of carbon per year and has a net positive impact on our environment.
A 2,500 sq. ft lawn, half the size of the average lawn, provides enough oxygen for a family of four.
What is a managed lawn? A lawn that receives regular mowing, some fertilizer and weed control applications. Maintaining a healthy turfgrass environment provides us with a critical component of a healthy world – less carbon.
An Ohio State Study found lawns that received only an occasional mowing and no fertilizer or weed control capture far less carbon.
Maintenance habits have a big influence on whether turfgrass helps or hurts the environment. Lawns cut too short typically create a negative carbon exchange. Weedy lawns, nutrient deficient lawns, and drought stress lawns result in thin lawns that have a negative impact on the environment.
EPA reports that turf grasses in the United States offset the carbon emissions of 5.2 million cars every year.
Actively growing and healthy lawns reduce heat.
A well-maintained lawn around homes can reduce air temperatures on average 15 to 30 degrees compared to concrete, asphalt or gravel.
The California Energy Commission found the cooling effect of an average size lawn is equal to nearly 9 tons of air conditioning.
Grass cools the air by absorbing solar radiation and through evapotranspiration.
Studies estimate that improved planting and maintenance of lawns and landscapes around homes could reduce total US air conditioning requirements by 25%.
On a 100+ degree day this week, a local TV weatherman using a laser thermometer reported on the varying surface temperatures around his house. The areas of his lawn with green, irrigated turf measured 101 degrees. The areas of his lawn that were unirrigated, void of soil moisture, and with a covering of dormant turf registered a temperature of 152 degrees. There was a 50-degree difference between healthy, green turf and dry, dormant turf!
Your attempts to keep your lawn green this summer have a positive impact on the cooling of environment.
A healthy turf captures pollutants and reduces runoff.
Less runoff increases infiltration of water into the groundwater supply. A dense root system traps and removes pollutants moving through the soil and into the water supply. The natural filtration system of healthy turfgrass improves water quality.
Lawns are the best natural water purifier.
Turfgrass is more effective at stopping erosion than any other plant. Grass naturally slows runoff and allows more water to be absorbed.
Healthy lawns improve air quality.
Healthy lawns contribute to improved air quality by acting as traps for dust and particles. Because a lawn completely covers the soil surface, particles are prevented from being blown to another area.
Compared to hard surfaces, turf grass traps 10 to 30 times more air particles and pollution.
Lawns are a major component of higher home values.
Smart Money reported consumers value a home with a well-maintained lawn and landscape on average 11.3% over the base value.
Well maintained lawns are one of the most important factors individuals and families consider when deciding where to live.
Even through a really difficult summer, a healthy fescue lawn is possible when you follow “best practices” when it comes to watering.
Yes, there is a place for synthetic turf in the landscape as a part of an experiential environment.
Great lawns benefit the community and human health.
Green areas enhance community pride, provide places for people to come together and promote outdoor activity.
Lawns knit neighborhoods together. Lawns connect people.
Studies show people who live and work with a view of lawns and landscapes compared to hard surfaces are found to recover from stress quicker, experience fewer headaches, and are more productive.
Two studies show that children with Attention-Deficit/Hyperactivity Disorder have shown that green spaces, such as lawn areas, experience less severe symptoms.
Studies have also found the noise absorption capacity of turfgrass is significant.
Lawns are where memories are made. No doubt, everyone can easily think of fond memories on the lawn with family and friends.
The belief that well maintained lawns are an environmental liability is short-sighted.
Don’t fall for myth that a healthy lawn isn’t good for the environment.
Water concerns are legitimate.
Education on proper watering is important. Deep, infrequent watering, based on the lawn’s needs, is a key to developing a healthy lawn that is good for the environment.
The scientific study “The Role of Turfgrasses in Environmental Protection and Their Benefits to Humans” stated, “the main cause for excessive landscape water use in most situations is the human factor.”
Excessive use of fertilizers and herbicides is a problem.
But, when used properly, according to the label, fertilizers and herbicides are important ingredients in creating a healthy lawn that is beneficial to the world in which we live, work and play.
James Beard, Professor Emeritus of Texas A&M, said, “The environmental benefits of turfgrass are the most sensible and economically feasible approach to counter the greenhouse effect.”
So, what has your lawn done for you lately?
Far more than you can imagine!
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
The Fall Pre-Emergent – The Application That Sets Your Lawn Up For Success Next Spring
A successful lawn care program isn't just about what you’re doing for your lawn right now—it’s about setting up the next season for success.
It’s August. It’s still hot. It’s still dry.
We get it. It has been tough to keep up the enthusiasm for your lawn and landscape this summer. With Oklahoma City pushing past 20 days of 100+ degrees and water bills skyrocketing, the joy of maintaining a great lawn is definitely waning.
But when it comes to having your best lawn, the worst thing you can do is give up now. Finishing the season strong is important.
An early fall pre-emergent before fall & winter annual weeds start to germinate as temperatures cool this fall is the key to having your best lawn next spring.
Why? Because: Nothing sets up your lawn for success next spring more than what you do over the next 4 to 6 weeks!
The most critical lawn care applications are the ones that include pre-emergent herbicides.
Everyone knows the importance of the spring applications, but did you know that the fall applications are just as critical?
Remember – it is always easier to prevent weeds than it is to kill actively growing weeds.
Why are the fall pre-emergent applications so important?
Fall pre-emergent applications are the key to having a clean lawn next spring.
Fall pre-emergent applications prevent poa annua, rescuegrass, cheat, brome, chickweed, and henbit. These are the weeds that clutter your lawn in the spring.
Bermuda lawns that do not receive the early fall pre-emergent soon run the risk of being very weedy next March and April as the green up.
Henbit is a broadleaf winter annual weed with greenish to purplish square stems, green scallop edged leaves, and reddish purple flower in the spring. Seeds germinate in the fall but the weed often goes unnoticed until we have periods of warm winter weather when henbit grows best. Henbit is easily prevented with fall pre-emergent applications but can be difficult to control in late spring when it is mature, flowering and littering your lawn. As with most weeds, a dense turf is the best prevention against the development of henbit.
Henbit
How a Bermuda lawn looks in April when no fall pre-emergent applications were made.
Poa Annua is a winter annual grassy weed that will germinate this fall. Without a fall pre-emergent application there is a good chance your lawn will be full of poa annua next spring.
Poa Annua is a low growing winter annual weed that will have white seed heads next spring. A pre-emergent between now and the end of September is a critical step in not having a lawn full of weeds next spring.
Poa Annua germinates and thrives in thin areas of fescue during the fall, winter and spring. Poa Annua does not have a competitive advantage over fescue when it is thick, healthy and actively growing. Overseeding thin fescue in the fall is a great way to prevent poa annua.
Poa Annua is an annual grassy weed that invades lawns in the fall and winter. It is a lighter green clumping grass with small white flowers (seed heads) in the spring. Germination occurs in moist soil starting in the fall when night temperatures drop into the 60s and continues through the winter and spring. Poa Annua has a competitive advantage over bermuda in the winter when it is activity growing and the bermuda is dormant.
The goal with a warm season bermuda lawn is for it to be clean of winter weeds this winter and coming spring. Fall pre-emergent applications are the key.
Weeds are easier to prevent in the fall than they are to control in the spring.
Poa annua, also known as annual bluegrass, is the fall’s equivalent to spring’s crabgrass. Without a fall pre-emergent, your lawn will not be clean next spring. And, just like crabgrass, when it is mature, poa annua is hard to control without causing turf injury.
Next spring, we want your lawn to be focused on emerging from dormancy without the harmful effects of harsh post-emergent herbicide applications. Lawns that do not receive the early fall pre-emergent application will be filled with weeds next February through April. While lawns that receive fall applications will start next year clean and healthy.
Nothing will make a bigger difference in the way your lawn looks next spring than applying both fall pre-emergent applications this year.
Timing of the fall pre-emergent applications is critical. As temperatures cool in the fall, cool season annual weeds will germinate.
The first application for the fall needs to be made sometime between now and the next 6 weeks.
A second application should be put on your lawn 6-8 weeks after the first fall application to ensure full control until the lawn emerges from dormancy next spring. Research shows that poa annua has developed resistance to pre-emergent applications. A second fall pre-emergent increases control of poa annua.
Next spring when the crabapples are in bloom and fescue is green, Bermuda lawns should be weed free. This is only possible if a fall pre-emergent is applied between late August and early October with a second application 4-6 weeks later.
There is only one reason to NOT put the first fall pre-emergent application on your lawn: SEEDING FESCUE.
The same pre-emergent herbicide that prevents annual weeds from germinating WILL PREVENT new grass seed from coming up. Because developing thick turf is so critical to good weed control, and because September through October is by far the best time to establish a cool season lawn, not applying a pre-emergent herbicide to the areas you are seeding is the right thing to do. Once the new seed is up, actively growing, and has been mowed 3-4 times, you can apply a fall pre-emergent application.
Note: If you are only seeding a portion of your lawn, you should have a pre-emergent applied to all the areas you are not seeding.
The only exception to the early fall pre-emergent being a must for your best lawn next spring is if you are overseeding with fescue this fall. If overseeding, skip the early pre-emergent, seed with fescue, then apply the late fall pre-emergent after the newly seeded area has been mowed a few times.
Important – If you are planning on seeding all or part of your lawn this fall,please let us know so we can adjust your applications accordingly.
Need help deciding if you need to overseed all or parts of your lawn with fescue this fall? Check out our email - Bermuda vs Fescue. The Choice is Yours!
Dormant Bermuda will be weed free in February and March when both fall pre-emergent applications are on schedule.
If you are not overseeding all your lawn with fescue this fall, it is important to not skip the early fall pre-emergent. All the areas you are not seeding need the early application to look their best next spring.
Fall pre-emergent applications will ensure your lawn is not full of annual winter weeds next March.
DO NOT apply the early fall pre-emergent on your lawn if you are planning on seeding with fescue this fall.
Please contact us if you plan to overseed with fescue this fall so we can adjust our application plans for your lawn.
There are 4 types of lawn care customers:
Customers who subscribe to the Hall | Stewart 7-step program and enjoy having a clean, healthy and growing turf. If you are on the 7-step program, you will receive both fall pre-emergent applications.
Customers who want to make sure their lawn receives timely pre-emergent herbicides but enjoy applying their own fertilizer. If this defines you, you are receiving the Hall | Stewart 4-step weed control only program and will receive the 2 fall pre-emergent applications.
The occasional application customer who takes a few applications, often the early spring applications. If this defines you, please don’t skip the fall pre-emergent steps this year. You will not regret the fall applications next spring when your lawn starts the year weed free.
Customers who have “thrown in the towel” on this season and plan on starting again next spring. If this defines you, a great lawn next spring doesn’t start next spring. A great lawn next season starts this fall.
Remember – it is always easier to prevent weeds than it is to kill actively growing weeds.
Nothing will make a bigger difference in the way your lawn looks next spring than applying both fall pre-emergent applications this year.
If you have any questions about fall pre-emergent herbicides, please give us a call at (405)367-3873.
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
Battling Drought & Heat Stress in the Lawn and Landscape
The Summer of ’26 is making a run at one of the toughest on our lawn and landscapes. Most of the Oklahoma City metro area has topped 4 weeks with out a good rainfall (1/4” or more) while the number of 100+ days keep adding up.
Summer in the transition zone (area where you can grow both warm season and cool season grass) is always a challenge for fescue, but when temperatures climb in the 100s and rainfall disappears, it is also a challenge for bermuda and your landscape plants.
Let’s visit this morning about the stresses your lawn and landscape are currently experiencing.
Drought Stress
We entered the summer 10-12” behind annual rainfall and have fallen farther behind since June. If you are not watering, and not only watering, but deep soaking your lawn and landscape, most likely you are experiencing drought stress.
Bermuda and zoysia show the most resistance to drought stress. Tall fescue shows some resistance to drought stress but will always show stress sooner than bermuda and zoysia.
Signs of Drought Stress – First sign is leaf wilting which shows as folded leaf blades and slightly darker, gray-blue color. Footprints start to remain visible longer. As drought stress continues, leaf blades lose all their color turning to straw brown and eventually crispy and desiccated. And, of course, drought symptoms show up sooner on cool season grasses compared to warm season.
As a general rule for soil in our area, your lawn will start showing signs of
drought stress when soil moisture drops below 30-40%.
Soil moisture in non-irrigated areas is currently less than 10%.
Drought Stress Prevention – Water deeply and infrequently rather than daily and shallow. Deep, infrequent watering encourages deeper root growth and a turf that is better able to withstand stress.
Often Asked Question: What does infrequent watering mean?
Simple Answer - not daily.
Long Answer – Place a Hall|Stewart Water Gauge or a container in your lawn. Water until there is runoff. If the container has ½” or water, you need to water 3 times per week to get 1.5” of water on your lawn. Because my lawn is relatively flat and my lawn is aerated annual, I can get ¾” of water on the lawn before I notice runoff. Therefore, I water my lawn every 3 to 4 days.
During fescue’s offseason, July & August, the color isn’t as deep and growth slows but still remains green and active.
A fescue lawn with a healthy root system can withstand heat stress.
Heat Stress
While drought stress is manageable, heat stress isn’t. Unfortunately, the Summer of ’26 is delivering both.
Heat stress occurs when the plant (lawn, tree, shrub, perennial, etc.) burns more energy through respiration than it can provide through photosynthesis.
The imbalance is made up through stored energy in the root system until it is depleted.
As the heat stress lingers, root dieback occurs.
Heat Stress Temperature Thresholds: Fescue begins to experience stress when temperatures are consistently in the 90s and even more so when nighttime temperatures remain high. For bermuda and zoysia, photosynthesis continues even when temperatures increase into the low 100s.
Photosynthesis continues in the heat for bermuda resulting in a rich green color as long as there is sufficient moisture.
With little to no soil moisture left, non-irrigated bermuda lawns are moving from gray-blue color tones toward straw browns. As soon as sufficient moisture retunes they will regain color.
How To Tell The Difference Between Drought Stress and Heat Stress
For fescue, heat stress is a typical July and August occurrence. We commonly refer to this time of year as fescue’s off-season. As temperatures rise and the turf burns more energy through respiration than it can provide through photosynthesis. A fescue lawn with a healthy root system, even though it will lose some of its rich green color and growth will slow, it will remain green.
For bermuda or zoysia, drought stress is more common than heat stress in central Oklahoma. It is hard to tell the difference between drought stress and heat stress by looking only at the turf. The answer lies in the roots. Check the soil moisture using a soil probe, moisture meter, or simply slide a shovel a 4-6” into the soil. If the soil is moist the problem is heat stress.
Drought stress or heat stress? Checked below the surface and discovered it is drought stress.
Place a Hall|Stewart Water Gauge in your lawn. Run your irrigation. Check the amount in the gauge. If you have 1/2”, run your irrigation 3 times per week.
A core with no moisture in the soil pulled from a lawn on Friday in Edmond revealed the lawn was suffering from drought stress.
A Stronger Root System Is The Solution For Heat Stress
Your lawn’s ability to withstand heat is directly proportionate to the health of the root system. If you have good watering practices and your lawn still struggles as soon as the summer heat sets in, it is time to test your soil.
Yellowish, fall color tree leaves in August is not a good sign. It is a sign of drought stress.
Leaf drop in August is a sign your trees are in a drought stress condition.
Your Trees Are Feeling The Stress Of The Drought And Heat Too!
Drought stress on trees typically follows these steps:
Temporary Wilting – Wilting and drooping leaves in the afternoon on a 95+ degree day isn’t a problem as long as the following morning the leaves have returned to normal.
Permanent Wilting – Wilting and drooping leaves in the morning and all day long.
Yellowish and/or Fall Color Leaves – Fall color is not a good thing in July and August!
Leaf Scorch – Leaf margins have a brown or burned appearance.
Defoliation – Leaves begin dropping from the top of the tree and the ends of branches.
Long-term drought results in dead branches, thin canopies, unusually small new leaves, increased pest problems, and trees that are slow to close wounds.
Supplemental watering during periods of drought and heat is very important.
Depending upon the species, a full-grown tree can use up to 250 to 500 gallons of water per week when temperatures are high.
A 10-year-old tree in your landscape is looking for 50 gallons of water every day.
A tree’s need for water is high on hot days because 90% of the water a tree takes in is being lost through transpiration.
What is transpiration?Water is absorbed by the roots, moves up the trunk to the branches out to the leaves where the water is released as water vapor. Transpiration is not all bad. The water vapor cools the leaves 10-15 degrees as it is released.
Do not assume if your grass is green that the trees in your lawn are receiving enough water. Trees and grass are competing for the same water. Deep soaking is required to get enough water for both the turf and tree roots.
A fescue lawn with a healthy root system can withstand heat stress.
Brown foliage on a Bald Cypress is a sign of drought stress.
A healthy tree can drop leaves due to stress and rebud as soon as the stress is removed.
Mature Tree Survival
Most healthy, mature trees (trees with at least a 6” wide trunk and have been planted for at least 2 years) can sustain a drought without supplementary water because of their large root system. Trees that are weak because of previous stress will be the first trees to show signs of drought stress.
How do you know if your mature trees need supplementary watering during a drought?
Water if there are visible signs of drought stress.
Water if the area under the tree canopy is dry. A good way to test dryness is to take a large 6-8” screwdriver and press it into the soil in a few locations under the canopy of the tree. If screwdriver doesn’t easily slip into the soil, it is time to start watering.
Watering mature trees:
Water the entire area under the canopy of the tree.
Water deeply every 3-5 days in 95+ degree weather.
Allow 1-2 days between deep soakings for the area to dry. Roots need air as much as they need water. When the soil is saturated all the air is replaced with water and root damage will occur.
Daily shallow watering is not helpful. The most active tree roots are in the top 12” of the soil. The goal is to get water 12” deep.
Place small containers around the area to measure the amount of water. Water long enough to get at least 1-2” of water on the area per week.
Yellowing or fall-colored leaves during the growing season is a sign that drought stress is advancing. Deep soaking of the entire area under the canopy of the tree every other day should be started immediately.
Even during a drought soil around a tree should be moist enough you can easily slip a 6-8” screwdriver into the soil.
Willow trees love moisture. It is not uncommon for willows to be one of the first trees to show drought stress by dropping excess leaves. Some leaf drop is good during a drought and part of a trees defense system to survive.
Young Tree Survival
Trees with trunks that are smaller than 6” in width or have been planted in the last two years are showing signs of drought stress if they have not received supplementary water the past few weeks.
Watering young trees:
In excessive heat and drought trees that have been planted in the last 30 days, need to receive at least 10 gallons every other day. Even if you have an irrigation system, additional watering is required during the heat of the summer.
Trees planted anytime in the last two years need at least 10 gallons of water every 2-3 days during our current weather pattern.
Treegator bags are a good tool for watering new trees. The original Treegator holds 20 gallons of water that slowly drips out over two days.
During the first two years of a tree’s life, maintain a grass free 2-3” thick mulched area around the tree.
A 20 gallon Treegator bag is a good tool for deep soaking any tree planted in the last two years. The bag will slowly release water for two days. Refill the bag every 3-4 days during hot weather.
Permanent wilting is underway on this bald cypress. Supplemental watering is needed to reverse drought stress.
Often when leaves turn brown during a drought and the leaves remain on the tree it is a sign the tree does not have enough moisture to put on new buds. In this case the ends of the branches are brittle and the chances of recovery are slim.
Most tree varieties, if healthy, can drop all their leaves during a drought and rebud once rain returns.
Once rain moisture returns energy stored in the roots is used to produce new leaves. As the tree gains leaves the photosynthesis process starts again rebuilding energy in the root system.
A tree has a good chance of survival if enough energy can be stored in the root system before the tree endures more stress. An extreme winter, insect or disease stress before the tree has a chance to replenish energy could be detrimental to the tree.
Drought alone may not kill your trees, but if may be the final blow to a tree that is already under stress. Most trees die from a combination of stresses, such as, drought followed by pest or disease issues, or drought followed by winter injury.
Finally, increase inspection of trees the rest of the season, through the fall and next spring. Drought stressed trees are prone to insect damage.
Remember, your trees and your lawn are competing for the same moisture. And right now, there may not be enough for both. Each week the drought continues, the need to supplement water your trees increase.
Your investment in your lawn and landscape is significant.
Our goal is to help you have your best possible lawn and landscape regardless of the environment conditions.
If you are concerned about any part of your lawn and landscape, please let us know.
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
August Lawn & Landscape Tips
After a run of 7 consecutive days with temperatures in the 100s, this weekend’s temperatures in the low to mid 90s was a welcome reprieve!
Let’s face it: I’m hot! You’re hot! And your lawn and landscape are hot too!
The last 10 days of July and the first 10 days of August on average are Oklahoma City’s hottest days and this year we are putting an exclamation point on the HOT!
We are visiting a lot of lawns and landscapes that are suffering from either heat stress, drought stress or both. Even the best lawns and landscapes have a spot or two, a plant or two, that is in distress after a week of 100s.
The key to surviving the heat and drought stress is having a habit of best practices all year round. It's not just during times of high stress that these habits matter, but rather it's best practices all the time that make the real difference. Turf and plants that are doing their best right now have a strong and healthy root system.
For most of the metro area, it has been 3 weeks since we have received a good rainfall (a rain of ¼” or more) and for some portions of the metro it has been over 4 weeks. As the days with temperatures over 100 began to accumulate, soil temperatures quickly increased, and soil moisture disappeared. It is safe to say that if you are not watering, your lawn and landscape are now in a drought stress condition.
Your lawn and landscape goal for August is to finish the summer strong and keep your turf and plants as healthy as possible. Here are a few best practices to focus on, the first being watering:
Watering
The soil moisture has disappeared resulting in the best-looking lawns and landscapes are those that are receiving 1 ½” of water per week.
To learn how long and how often you need to water for your landscape to receive 1 ½” of moisture, place your Hall | Stewart Rain Gauge or cans around your lawn. Water using your normal cycle and then check the cups. Adjust watering times and frequency accordingly to insure 1 ½” is applied each week. Remember your landscape prefers deep soaking, infrequent watering over shallow, frequent watering. Even in the heat, lawns and landscapes are at their best when they are watered deeply as needed and not every day.
Healthy lawns have deep root systems. Roots will grow to the moisture. If your watering pattern is short, shallow, frequent watering resulting in moisture only in the top 1-2”, you will have a shallow rooted lawn dependent upon daily water. Deep soaking results in a root system with grass roots 6” to 2’ deep that is not dependent upon frequent watering and is drought resistant.
Remember, trees planted in the last two years need supplemental watering during the summer heat and extended dry periods. A good rule of thumb is to give them 10 gallons of water every week.
Best Watering Practice for August – Know how long you need to water to get 1 ½” water on your lawn each week. Practice deep soaking, infrequent watering.
If you are unsure about your watering practices, let us help.
We can schedule an Irrigation Audit/Check to make sure your system is operating at its peak efficiency during the summer heat.
Saucer Magnolia, known for their showy spring flowers, are covered with scorched leaves this summer as a result of the heat.
Take time to check your irrigation and fine tune it. A leaning head often is the culprit for dry spots in the lawn.
We are experiencing great results from our Moisture Control program through the drought. This is a picture from this week after several days of temperatures in the 100s and no rain for 3 weeks. We manage the irrigation for the customer and the system is set to run every 4 days. The fescue is showing some heat stress but considering it is the last week of July it is healthy. The bermuda color is great and showing no signs of draught stress even with irrigation only running every 4 days.
I am currently mowing my fescue lawn at 3 1/2". More leaf space results in better heat and drought tolerance.
Mowing
Both warm season turf (Bermuda and Zoysia) and cool season turf (Fescue) should be mowed at the highest level this month, warm season 2.5” and cool season 3.5”. At the higher level the lawn will have more leaf space resulting in better heat and drought tolerance. Continue to mow often enough that you are removing only 1/3 of the grass each time you cut. If you are cutting frequently enough to pass the 1/3 test, don’t catch the clippings. Allowing the clippings to decompose on the lawn will return moisture and nitrogen to the soil. Give no bagging a try. You will be surprised at how much more color your lawn will retain even in the heat. When you bag your clippings, you are tossing out nitrogen and moisture your lawn could really use this month.
Best Mowing Practice for August – Mow high, mow often, and don’t bag your clippings.
Bermuda lawns perform their best in the heat. Mow often and don’t bag the clippings. Grass clippings are mostly nitrogen and moisture. Your lawn will thank you for giving them back.
After mulch mowing, use your blower to distribute any noticeable clippings.
Well maintained Bermuda lawns can’t be beat in August. This Bermuda lawn is the result of best practices this summer: well timed lawn care applications, aeration in June, deep infrequent watering, and mulch mowing.
Fertilizer
Apply fertilizer to warm season turf this month. This time of the year, Bermuda and Zoysia benefit from a high nitrogen fertilizer that is low in phosphorus and potassium.
DO NOT fertilize cool season lawns until we reach the cooler temperatures of September.
Warm and cool season turfs require different fertilizer schedules. Don’t make the mistake of trying to treat them the same when it comes to fertilizing.
Best Fertilizer Practice for August – Fertilize bermudagrass, don’t fertilize fescue. Important - Follow watering instructions after fertilizer is applied.
August is the month to be less aggressive on weed control. Because a thick turf is the most important part of good weed control, you want to avoid weakening the turf going into the fall.
Weed Control
Spring pre-emergent herbicides are reaching the end of their effectiveness in your soils. Should an occasional weed show up in your turf this month, it is best to go easy on weed control. We have reached the time of the year that damaged turf may not have a chance to fully recover before fall. Great weed control is at least 75% the result of thick turf. August is the month to focus on turf development going into fall.
Later this month is the best time to start applying the first fall pre-emergent herbicide application. The first fall weed to germinate is poa annua (annual bluegrass). Poa annua has become more and more of a problem to control in lawns worldwide as it has developed resistance to current herbicide chemistry. For the best prevention, it is important to put a pre-emergent on your lawn between late August and the end of September followed by a second pre-emergent, using a different herbicide, in October or November.
Best Weed Control Practice for August – Don’t cause turf damage by overtreating weeds. Better to go into the fall with a thick turf than one with herbicide damaged thin areas.
Bermuda vs Fescue in August
Bermuda (warm season turf) loves the summer heat. Fescue (cool season turf) prefers nights below 70 and days below 90. Healthy bermuda lawns look their best in the heat of the summer. Healthy fescue will retain color, although not as much as in early summer, and growth will slow.
Fescue where there is plenty of air circulation and dabbled sunlight typically looks best in the warm weather. Fescue lawns with heavy shade and little air circulation tend to thin from brown patch disease. Brown patch occurs in fescue lawns anytime the grass stays wet for 5 hours or more at a time and nighttime temperatures are in the 70s. During the hottest and dryest time of the season, brown patch is often self-inflicted by watering your fescue in the morning and evening, a common incorrect watering habit on fescue lawns in July and August.
Brown Patch develops in fescue lawns that have an area of low air circulation or heavy shade during the summer if the area stays wet for more than 5 hours at a time. Don't create Brown Patch with your watering practices. Allow your fescue time to dry between waterings.
Inspect Shady Lawn Areas
September through October is the best time of the year to establish fescue. Now is the time to assess the areas of the lawn where bermuda has become thin due to increasing shade (Bermuda needs at least 6 hours of direct sunlight to be thick), areas of the lawn where fescue did not perform well because of very dense shade (Fescue needs at least some dappled sun), and areas of fescue that have been damaged by brown patch this summer. Because fescue does not spread, you should plan on adding some seed every fall.
Best Fescue Lawn Practice for August – Inspect and evaluate your turf. Check shade patterns and make a plan for overseeding low light areas with fescue this fall.
Need Help Evaluating Your Shady Areas?
We would be happy to evaluate your shade and make a recommendation.
Just give us a call at (405)367-3873 or respond to this email.
Insect Watch
If Grubs have been a problem in your lawn, August is the time to apply an insecticide. Remember, the insecticide will kill desirable insects also. Only treat for grubs if there is evidence of a problem or you have had a history of grub problems.
Keep on the lookout for Army Worms. So far this summer, we have seen very little arm worm activity. A best practice is to keep on the lookout now through the fall because there are 4 to 5 generations between July and November with each generation increasing in numbers, so early control is best. Early caterpillars are green and very small. As they grow to 1 to 1 ½” they turn browner with reddish brown stripes on each side of the body and small back spots on the top. Their distinctive mark is an inverted “Y” on the front of the head. Army worms will feed on any leafy, soft plant with plenty of moisture in the leaf. Typically, in August they will feed mostly on bermuda because of an abundance of healthy leaf blades and less on fescue because it is not flourishing as much in August. Watch for areas of the lawn that appear to have drought stress should not be. Test the area with a soap flush. Mix 1 teaspoon of dish soap with 1 gallon of water and pour over the surface. If you have army worms, they will come to the surface. Treatment with a systemic insecticide when the worms are small before they become heavy feeders is best. Need more information on Army Worms, check out our article.
Continue to inspect shrubs for Aphids and treat as needed. A common host plant is the Crape Myrtle.
Inspect your trees and shrubs for active Bagworms. If you need help controlling bagworms, give us a call. When possible, remove and throw away bagworms. Don’t toss them on the ground because they will crawl back onto your plants.
Watch for Webworms in your trees this month. The later generations of webworms are the ones that cause damage. If noticed early when the webbing is small, simply cutting the branch out is the best control. If spraying is required, you must penetrate the webbing to gain control.
Best Insect Control Practice for August – Spend a few minutes inspecting your lawn and landscape for insect activity. Treat as needed.
A common problem on Hackberry trees in the summer is nipple gall. Unfortunately little can be done to control gall-making insects.
Grub worm
When you remove bagworms please dispose of them. This little guy is slowly climbing back up a tree to do more destruction.
Summer annual color mixture of Joseph Coat, Sunpatien, Angelonia, Penta, Coleus, and Lantana.
This summer’s Crape Myrtle colors have been brilliant.
Lantana
Shady summer annual color mixture of Impatiens and Caladium.
Limelight Hydrangeas can’t be beat for colorful summer shrub. This is a ‘Little Lime’ and is great for smaller areas.
Landscape Color
How has the color been in your landscape this season? Sometime this month take pictures and make notes of the plants that are doing the best in your landscape.
Black-eyed Susan’s are the perfect perennial to add color to the landscape during July and August.
Crape Myrtles love the warm days and rewarding us with abundant summer color this year.
Limelight Hydrangeas continue to brighten the landscape even on the hottest of days.
Lantana, Penta, and Periwinkle are just a few summer annuals that are at their best now.
What is adding great color to your landscape right now? We want to know. Send pictures please.
Lantana is one of the best heat-loving annuals and with so many varieties, there is a right one for every landscape.
Angelonia is becoming a favorite summer annual. It has profile spikes of color and is available in white and shades of pinks and purples.
Crape Myrtle and Black-eyed Susan’s are a great color combination for late summer color.
Limelight Hydrangeas continue to add large white blossoms to the summer landscape.
Coleus is a great summer annual with big colorful leaves that at interest to the summer landscape.
Black-eyed Susan’s add a splash of bright color to the hot summer landscape.
Lantana is one of the best annual color plants for a summer filled with above average temperatures.
Brake Light Yucca are a fun addition to the summer landscape.
Shasta Daisies are nearing the end of their summer color show.
The best perennial plantings are the ones that have something blooming spring to fall. I challenge you to find another perennial that puts on a better color show in August than Black-eyed Susans.
Periwinkle is a lover of the summer heat.
Keep faded blooms pruned off and you will extend their bloom time a few more weeks.
August is a great time to evaluate your summer annual color and make notes on what worked and what didn’t. This planting of Sunpatien, Begonia, Penta, Joseph Coat, and Melampodium started the summer looking great. But over the last few weeks the Melampodium has over powered the rest of the color. Note: “If using Melampodium plant it in the back.”
Endless Summer Hydrangeas will add more blooms this month.
Having a great lawn and landscape through the heat of the summer is a result of good maintenance practices year after year.
A great lawn and landscape are not the result of one season, or even a full year of focus.
A great environment is the result of discovering and developing great practices and then repeating them season after season, year after year.
If you need assistance in developing great practices or have questions concerning your lawn and landscape, give us a call.
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405) 367-3873
Bermuda vs Fescue – The Choice is Yours!
It’s late July and we find ourselves deep into a typical summer Oklahoma weather pattern…hot and dry!
Temperatures have become more and more consistent in the upper 90’s to low 100’s while rainfall has become less and less consistent and scattered. Parts of the Oklahoma City metro are going on 3 weeks without a good rain fall while other parts of the metro have received a ¼” or more rainfall within the past week.
Heat and drought impact all types of turfgrass making summertime in Oklahoma hard on all lawns. Even so, Oklahoma is blessed to be in the transition zone where you can choose between a warm season lawn or a cool season lawn.
What are the pros and cons of a cool season lawn vs a warm season lawn in central Oklahoma?
What is the transition zone?
An area across the middle of the US between where warm season turf grows in the south and cool season grasses grow in the north. In the Transition Zone, you can choose to grow either warm season or cool season grasses.
Bermuda is the common warm season turfgrass in our region.
The advantage bermuda has is it loves the summer heat and as long as it receives moisture, it will be at its best in July and August. It is hard to beat the appearance of a well maintained bermuda lawn this time of year.
But bermuda has limits. The biggest being it requires 6-8 hours of direct sunlight to be thick and healthy. Second, it goes dormant in November and doesn’t green up until April, leaving you with a lifeless, straw-brown lawn for months.
Bermuda will look its best when it receives at least 6 hours of full sun everyday.
Fescue is the best grass for lawns where is less than 6 hours of direct sunlight per day.
Fescue is the cool season alternative.
Fescue tolerates more shade and stays green nearly year-round. You can’t beat the deep rich color in the spring and fall. The turf is so soft under your feet. Mowing patterns are sharp. Fescue stays green well into December, keeps some color through the winter, and as soon as the winter starts to break in early March, fescue bursts back to life.
But to be fair, fescue has limits as well. Fescue, because it is a cool season grass, goes through a summer off season. About the time bermuda lawns are looking their best, fescue goes through a slump when 95+ temperatures are common. Growth slows, depth of color fades, and although improved varieties of fescue are more drought tolerant, fescue still needs water during the summer to stay green.
Want to know about fescue in the heat of year, read our article Fescue’s Summer Off Season.
Summer is the Perfect Time to Evaluate Your Lawn.
If you have a bermuda lawn, are there areas that are not receiving sufficient light for a thick, healthy bermuda turf?
If you have a fescue lawn, how has it faired so far this summer?
Fescue is best established during September and October. With cooler days and nights just a few weeks away, mid to late summer is the best time to evaluate your lawn for the need to establish fescue or add more fescue.
VERY CRITICAL
Evaluation and decision to seed or not to seed this fall must be made before the first fall pre-emergent application is made in starting in mid-August through September.
Let’s take a minute to explore ways to use fescue in your lawn…
Fescue in the Shady Areas Only
This is the most traditional approach.
Any place where your lawn doesn’t receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight - under trees, on the north side of structures, and those narrow areas between houses and fences - are all prime areas for fescue.
Often homeowners put effort into trimming trees in an attempt to get enough light and allow bermuda to grow. But, in most cases, tree trimming or thinning rarely solves the problem.
The best solution is to overseed these areas with fescue in the fall.
The negative to “fescue only in the shady areas” approach is a lawn mixed with green and dormant colors during the fall, winter, and early spring.
Full Fescue Lawn
A common myth is fescue won’t grow in full sun.
Fescue performs best in dappled shade to partial sun, does very well in full sun when maintained properly, and struggles the most in dense, heavy shade.
A full fescue lawn is the best solution for the typical sized lawn with a few trees making caring for both cool season and warm season turf difficult.
A fescue lawn in dappled sunlight.
Fescue is relatively drought tolerant but needs water during the summer to stay green. This fescue lawn is in mostly full sun and during summer’s drought & heat has been receiving 1.5” of water.
Two Approaches To Managing A Full Fescue Lawn
Managing Fescue Over Bermuda
With this approach fertilizing, weed control, mowing, aerating, and overseeding focuses on promoting the fescue and suppressing the bermuda.
Fescue needs heavy fertilizer in the spring and fall, and none in the summer – the exact opposite of bermuda.
Weed control herbicides designed for fescue and not bermuda are used resulting in bermuda suppression.
Fescue responds well to being mowed taller, 3” to 3 ½”, while bermuda prefers a shorter height of 2” to 2 ½”.
Aeration occurs in the fall, not early summer.
Overseeding with fescue in the fall keeps the fescue full and stresses the bermuda going into the winter.
The negative - You will still notice some bermuda in the lawn during July and August, but with deep, infrequent watering practices, the fescue will remain the dominate turf.
Bermuda lawns look their best in mid to late summer.
Fescue will loose color in 95+ degree temperatures if it doesn’t receive at least 1.5” of water per week.
2. Full Fescue Only
An aggressive approach to removing bermuda from the fescue is used.
Because bermuda is the dominate turfgrass in our region it is difficult to have a completely bermuda free fescue lawn.
If this is your goal, aggressive herbicide treatments in August followed by overseeding in September is required.
The negative – Your lawn will look bad before it looks good. There will be a 4-to-6-week period between the first application and when the new fescue grows in. But you will notice substantially less bermuda the next growing season. You can expect to repeat this process every 2 to 3 years to keep bermuda eradicated.
I have used this process on occasion with success, but it is not the preferred method due to the poor appearance of the lawn for several weeks until the new fescue grows in.
Fescue growing in full sun over Bermuda.
Fescue with bermuda in August before treatment to control bermuda.
Lawn 2 weeks after treatment to control bermuda.
Fescue 4 weeks after treatment to control bermuda just before overseeding in September.
A fescue lawn in July.
A fescue lawn in the fall.
A fescue lawn in the spring.
As our environment continues to have more and more trees, fescue will become more and more a part of our landscape environment.
Whether you desire to have a full fescue lawn or just need to address the shady areas of your lawn, September through October is the best time to establish fescue from seed. As a cool season grass, it is much easier for newly established grass to survive the winter.
Spring seeded fescue typically does not have enough root system to survive the summer and is more susceptible to brown patch disease. The best time to seed fescue is in the fall. The second-best time is in the spring, but the chasm between fall and spring is large.
If you need help evaluating your need for fescue and would like to discuss your options, please give us a call (405)367-3873.
New fescue 30 days after seeding.
Three keys to successful fall fescue seeding:
1. Quality Fescue Blend Seed
2. Aeration for good seed to soil contact.
3. Keeping the seeded area tacky moist until the new seed comes up.
A key to successful fescue seeding is keeping the seed moist until it germinates. Check your system now for even coverage to avoid seed failure in dry areas this fall.
VERY CRITICAL
Evaluation and decision to seed or not to seed this fall must be made before the first fall pre-emergent application is made instarting in mid-August through September.
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
Bonus Tip - Newly seeded grass needs to be kept consistently moist for 2-3 weeks after seeding.
The inability to keep new seed moist is the number one reason new seed fails.
Now is the time to schedule an Irrigation Check to make sure your system is ready for fall overseeding.
Request an inspection today by responding to this email or calling (405)367-3873.
Great Landscape Plantings Have 3 Levels
Stroll through any neighborhood and you will find a wide variety of landscapes. You are sure to find the predictable landscape where a row of shrubs along the foundation is used to soften the line between the lawn and the house. Other landscapes, by adding a few plants of color and texture, will catch your attention a little more. But, ever so often, you will discover a lawn and landscape that invites you to slow your pace and take it all in.
What makes the difference?
Why do some landscapes just feel better?
Why do some just grab your attention?
There is a landscape design concept that will make a landscape standout nearly every time…
Great landscape plantings contain three levels: a front, a middle, and a back.
A good combination is Limelight Hydrangea in the back, Boxwoods in the middle, and seasonal color in the front.
Let’s start with some basic design math:
Front – No more than 18” in height. Low ground covers, perennials, annual color and small plants.
Middle – Perennials, annual color and smaller shrubs with enough height to start creating levels. 18” to 3’ in height.
Back – Shrubs and small trees over 3’ in height.
Note - Read the plant label and believe what it says about plant height and growing conditions. Remember plants perform their best if they are allowed to grow to their natural height and form. If you have only 4’ of height for your back level, don’t plant a shrub with a mature height of 10’ with the idea you will keep it pruned. Even if you are diligent with your maintenance, the plant will never look as good as it would if it could grow naturally.
A newly planted landscape with boxwood and hydrangea for the back. Spirea, drift roses and perennials in the middle, and annual color in the front.
Walls and fences don’t count as the third level. To get the impact, you need three levels in front of the object.
When selecting plants, don’t go for all evergreen plants or all flowering plants. A mixture of evergreens with interesting leaf shapes and colors will add more interest.
The levels don’t have to be in a continuous, linear run of all the same plant material. A layer can contain a mixture of plants. Often the middle level works well with a few specimen plants of interest, or groupings of perennials. Every landscape should include a few surprises.
It is also good to repeat a few shrubs or colors. Even when your goal is an informal landscape, some repetition helps draw all plants together into one landscape planting.
Plantings should have something of interest in every season. Consider one level planted in mostly evergreens, another in perennials, and another in annual color. The higher the visibility, more perennials, seasonal color, or blooming plants are recommended. Curb appeal increases as color increases.
Always welcome guests with flowers. A border of annual color along your front walk with a splash of more color near your front door creates a warm greeting.
Even in patio pots, planting for three levels adds interest. This pot contains a variegated euonymus for height, penta for the middle, and trailing periwinkle.
A few ideas to get you started:
Large ornamental grasses in the back, flowering shrubs in the middle, with a ground cover boarder in the front.
Crape myrtle in the back, evergreen shrubs in the middle, and annual color in the front.
Evergreens for the back with a mix of perennials in the middle and ground covers in the front.
Limelight hydrangeas in the back, a row of boxwoods neatly trimmed in the middle, with annual color in the front.
A shady area idea is azalea in the back, hosta in the middle, and dwarf mondo in the front.
Garden trends are seeing a resurgence of classical flower plants such as roses, hydrangeas and peonies. With so many new innovations, using these as one of your layers will give a nostalgic feel to your landscape.
A great resource for ideas and plant materials is Monrovia.com. Monrovia has been a leader in landscape plant material since it was established 100 years ago in 1926 by Harry Rosedale, a Danish immigrant. I am sure you will find their website a great resource. The content in this email is a combination of information from Monrovia and our years of experience in the local landscape industry.
Dwarf Globe Blue Spruce used as a mid level shrub adds color and interest to a landscape.
Espaliering a plant, such as Pyracantha, on a wall or fence is a great way to create levels in small spaces.
When planting larger seasonal color, the concept of planting in three levels will add more depth and interest to your landscape.
Annuals, perennials, flowering shrubs and evergreens planted in levels to add interest.
Height variation in landscape plantings, incorporating a mix of shrubs with different heights, adds depth and dimensions to your landscape.
Larger plants, particularly when you have the room, are great for adding interest and will soften the hard lines of walls and fences. They also are a great way of creating a natural screen or a free-standing boarder. The more space you have the bigger you can go with the back level.
If your space is limited and you still want to gain height, a climbing vine or shrub against a wall or fence is a great solution. Also consider using a flowering tree, boxwood, or pyracantha in an espaliered form.
Need a low maintenance landscape option with three levels? Plant Pink Muhly Grass between groundcover and standard Juniper varieties. Little to no trimming will be required.
Large landscape containers are another way to create levels in the landscape.
Annuals planted in front of perennials to create levels.
Front layer - Inpatients
Middle layer - Caladiums
Back layer - Azaleas
Best time to plant:
Fall is the best time to plant most plants. In the fall, plant materials benefit from cooler days while the soil temperatures are still warm enough root growth continues. The result is a plant that has a stronger root system the following summer.
Japanese Maple, hydrangea and ferns are a great way to create three levels in shade gardens.
Grasses make a great middle level when creating landscape plantings.
The design concept works for pots. Sometimes you will hear a designer refer to pots have a thriller, a filler and a spiller. The thriller in this pot is a cordyline. The filler is periwinkle. And the spiller is lantana.
Summer planting:
But what if you don’t want to just dream about landscapes, you want to plant now. Is it ok to plant during the summer?
Even though fall is the best time to plant new landscaping can be added year-round in central Oklahoma. Avoiding extreme heat (or cold) and drought is best. But successful planting in the summer is possible with a little extra effort.
Follow these tips when planting in the summer:
Container-grown plants are best for summer planting because there is less transplant shock than with balled and burlaped or bare root plant material.
Dig a whole that is twice as wide as the plant container and 25% deeper.
Mix organic compost with the soil you removed from the hole, place some of the mixture in the hole, firm up the soil in the bottom of the hole and place the plant with the top of the soil around the plant 1-2” higher than the surrounding soil.
Backfill 1/3 of the soil around the plant with the compost and soil mixture, lightly firm up and then fill the rest of the hole with water.
After the water drains from the hole, backfill with your soil mixture forming a small saucer around the plant while being careful not to place any soil on top of the plant root ball.
Fill the saucer with water and let it soak into the soil.
Mulch around the plant with 2 to 3” of quality, natural mulch to help keep the soil moisture and temperature consistent.
Deep water daily for the first two weeks when planting in the heat of the year. Don’t let the soil around the plant get too dry for the rest of the summer. But, at the same time, you don’t want to over water, so check soil moisture often. The soil should be moist, but not so moist you can make a mud pie.
For trees, the best practice is to use a tree gator around new trees planted during the summer.
The goal is to keep the plant alive and healthy until fall. Don’t expect much new growth until next spring.
Container-grown plants are best for summer planting because there is less transplant shock than with balled and burlaped or bare root plant material.
Mix organic compost with the soil you removed from the hole, place some of the mixture in the hole, firm up the soil in the bottom of the hole and place the plant with the top of the soil around the plant 1-2” higher than the surrounding soil.
Place the shrub with the root ball 1-2” higher than the surrounding soil.
Fill the rest of the hole with water allowing time for the water to be absorbed into the soil before backfilling.
Finish the planting with 2-3” of quality, natural mulch.
Dig a whole that is twice as wide as the plant container and 25% deeper.
Place some of the compost soil mixture in the hole and lightly stamp it down.
Backfill 1/3 of the soil around the plant with the compost and soil mixture, lightly firm up and then fill the rest of the hole with water.
Backfill the hole being careful not to add soil to the top of the plant’s root ball, lightly pack the soil, create a small saucer ring from the soil, and fill the saucer full of water.
What are your best landscape ideas?
What are your favorite plants?
We would love to hear what is working well in your landscape.
Stay cool.
Keep landscape dreaming.
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
What’s bugging your landscape?
It’s hot! And if you are feeling the heat, so are your lawn and landscape.
An insect’s favorite target is a plant under stress. The healthier your lawn and landscape, the stronger their defense is against insects and disease.
Two weeks ago, in our July Lawn & Landscape Tips we touched briefly on common insect issues at this point in the summer. This week let’s dive in a little deeper.
Healthy landscapes are a result of an Integrated Pest Management program.
The first step of an IPM approach is maintaining healthy plant material with proper watering, feeding and pruning. Insect activity increases on plant material that is already stressed.
The second step is simply monitoring your plants. Weekly observation is critically important. Does the overall plant color look healthy? How do the leaves look?
Our landscapes represent large investments in both time and money. They add curb appeal and provide enormous benefits to the environment.
It is important that we do all we can to keep them healthy and growing.
Here are a few of the problems that we are either currently seeing in landscapes, or we have on our watch list:
Be on the lookout for any plants that don’t look their best. Notice the slight color difference between these two Taylor Junipers? After close inspection, bagworms were found feeding on the one on the left.
Bagworms
Timing - Eggs hatch in May and they remain active through September.
½-2” long spindle shaped bag wrapped in the foliage of the host plant. Young bagworms are very hard to spot.
Favorite host plants are juniper, arborvitae, spruce, pine and cedar. But they can attach themselves to deciduous shrubs and trees and we are seeing a lot of bagworms on deciduous trees this year!
Females lay eggs in bags left on plants over the winter. One female bagworm will lay as many as 500 eggs. The eggs hatch in the late spring and tiny larva crawl out and start feeding. As they feed, they use silk and plant materials to protect and camouflage themselves. Bagworms can strip a plant of foliage.
Heavy infestations, particularly on the same plant year after year, can completely defoliate a plant. Defoliation of needle evergreens, such as junipers and cedars, usually results in plant death. Broadleaf evergreens and deciduous plants typically are not killed but a weakened and more susceptible to other insect and disease problems.
When there are only a few, control is best by hand picking. If you have a large population an insecticide treatment should be made as soon as they are noticed. Try to remove any bags left on plant material in the fall. Bags left on the plant will serve as cocoons for females to lay more eggs. When removing bags, destroy them. Do not pick and toss on the ground as the worm will crawl back to a plant.
Bagworms produce silk threads to move locations.
Bagworms use the leaves of the host plant to protect themselves while they feed. This bagworm came off an elm tree, not a typical host plant for the caterpillar.
Bagworms can strip a mature Bald Cypress of its leaves quicker than you would expect.
Although not as common bagworms will feed on deciduous trees. If you notice skeletonized leaves, look close, most likely there are bagworms attacking the tree.
Young bagworms are small and can be hard to see. They wrap themselves in the plant needles making them hard to notice.
If you notice a juniper or cedar starting to loose color, inspect for bagworms.
Left untreated, large, heavy infestations of bagworms will kill mature trees and shrubs.
If there are not too many, the best way to control bagworms is to simply pull them off and throw them away. Don’t throw them on the ground, if you do they will crawl back onto the tree.
Aphids
Timing – Species start producing in April and increase rapidly as temperatures increase.
A small, soft-bodied insect that is nearly invisible to the naked eye. The honeydew, sticky substance they excrete is the easiest way to know aphids are active. Colonies develop on the underside of the leaf and often are not noticed until the sticky substance starts to show.
They feed on the leaves, stems and buds of a wide variety of plants throughout the growing season. Usually, they attack the succulent new growth.
Aphids generally do not cause serious harm to mature plants, although they can be harmful to young plants. Heavy populations can cause wilt and yellowing of leaves as the sap is removed. Blooming trees and shrubs will see a reduction in flowers. Aphids can promote sooty mold, a fungal disease, and spread viruses.
Early detection is the key. Aphids mature in 7-10 days and can produce 40-60 offspring resulting in population explosions in the thousands within a few weeks.
When populations are small, a high-pressure blast of water can be used to wash the insects off the leaves. Wiping the leaves with a soapy solution is also effective with early detection. In most cases, once you notice the honeydew, it is best to treat with an insecticide. A dormant oil application in the winter is helpful in reducing populations the following season. Lady bugs can be used as a beneficial insect control when populations are small.
Aphids are small and often go unnoticed but the sticky substance they leave behind is easy to spot.
Aphids feed on the underside of the leaf and become noticeable as the leaf becomes covered with the sticky substance they excrete.
Spider Mites
Timing – They are active from early summer through fall. The hotter and drier the weather, the more severe the problem will become.
Very small (1/60 of an inch) that live on the underside of leaves and survive by sucking on the cell content of the leaves. First shows up as stippling of light dots on the leaves. Leaves then turn from bronze to yellow and then fall off.
They get their name from the small silk protective webs they create.
Because spider mite damage can look like many other plant problems, the best way to determine if it is spider mite is to shake the plant leaves over a white sheet of paper. Spider mites will look like tiny moving black dots on the paper.
Spider mites reproduce rapidly when conditions are perfect. Spider mites can hatch in as little as 3 days and become mature within 5 days. One female can lay up to 20 eggs per day during their 2-4 week life span.
The best control results from making two applications 7-10 days apart.
Adequate plant moisture during the hottest time of the year helps prevent population explosions.
Early signs of spider mites.
To know if you have spider mites shake leaves over a white sheet of paper.
Spider mites will look like tiny moving black dots.
Silk protective webbing formed by the spider mite.
Crape Myrtle Scale
Timing – Females lay eggs from May through September. Crawlers emerge within a day or two and spread to new areas of the plant.
The scale is white to gray and exudes a pink blood-like liquid when crushed. Initially you will notice a black sooty mold on the twigs and trunks of crape myrtles.
Bark scale is difficult to control without the use of a systemic insecticide to kill the sucking pests.
Inspect new plants for scale before purchasing.
Scrubbing the bark with a soft brush and mild solution of dishwashing soap and water will remove many of the females and eggs as well as remove the black sooty mold.
A dormant oil application in the late winter to early spring is an effective way to reduce scale populations.
Two years ago this mature, single trunk Crape Myrtle was infested with Crape Myrtle Scale. Arborjet’s ACE-jet systemic insecticide was used 15 months ago and the tree has remained scale and aphid free.
White scale attacks Crape Myrtles leaving a black sooty substance on the bark.
Soft Oak Scale
Timing – One generation per year. Crawlers emerge in June, feeding and spreading on the branches.
They are convex in shape resembling a helmet, brown and ¼” in size. Crawlers are small and pale in color.
Scale feeds on the fluids in the vascular system.
They produce honeydew which is a source for attracting ants and other insects.
They rarely kill the tree but open up wounds that provide entry for other damaging pathogens.
When populations are allowed to increase canopy damage may occur along with discoloration of the leaves.
Application of an insecticide via spraying needs to occur in June when the crawlers are active. Annual spray applications in June are required until the populations are under control.
An alternative treatment is trunk injections of a systemic insecticide. Trunk injections allow the insecticide to be readily distributed throughout the plant’s vascular system to the fluids the scales feed on.
Soft Scale are small brown convex shaped insects on oak tree branches.
Webworm
Timing – The first-generation spin webs in July and later generations create webs in September to October.
Caterpillars weave a loose web around tree branches while they are munching on the leaves.
Favorite trees include hickory, mulberry, oak, pecan, popular, redbud, sweetgum, and willow. But you can find them on most ornamental shade trees when populations are heavy.
Early generations won’t cause long-lasting damage. They are just unsightly. The last generation can cause damage when the branch tries to rebud just before a killing frost. When this occurs, you can expect the affected branch to die.
The best control is to cut out any affected branches in the early generations when the webbing is small. Completely dispose of the branch as the worms will exit the webbing and return to a tree. If the web is too high or if the population has increased to the point that pruning is not possible, an insecticide application will be needed. The spray must penetrate the webbing to gain control of the caterpillars. Dormant oil applications are a good idea as worms overwinter in tree bark.
Even though early populations do not cause damage, early control is important. When left untreated, typically later generations’ populations increase.
Webworm caterpillars loosely weave webbing around branches to protect them while stripping a branch of leaves. When spraying, you mush have enough pressure to penetrate the webbing to gain control.
The webworm caterpillar weaves a loose web around tree branches to protect themselves while they are destroying your tree’s leaves.
The first generation of webworm started to show up in trees this week. Inspect your trees this weekend. The best control is to cut the branch out when they are small.
Army Worm
Timing – Moths migrate from the Gulf Coast in June, lay eggs and the first-generation caterpillars start feeding in July. With a 28-day life cycle there can be 4 or 5 generations between July and November.
Army worms are always present in our summer lawns and landscapes. When populations are normal you may never know they are there. But, when conditions are right, as they were in 2021 and again last year, we can see an explosion and experience turf damage.
Early caterpillars are green and very small. As they grow to 1 to 1 ½” they turn browner with reddish brown stripes on each side of the body and small back spots on the top. Their distinctive mark is an inverted “Y” on the front of the head.
Army worms will feed on any leafy, soft plant with plenty of moisture in the leaf. In 2021 they feasted primarily on fescue lawns because growing conditions were perfect for fescue. In previous outbreaks, army worms picked bermuda over fescue. If army worms are high in populations this summer, you can expect them to choose bermuda over fescue because the early summer heat has kept fescue from flourishing.
Watch for areas of the lawn that appear to have drought stress should not be. Test the area with a soap flush. Mix 1 teaspoon of dish soap with 1 gallon of water and pour over the surface. If you have army worms, they will come to the surface.
Treatment with a systemic insecticide when the worms are small before they become heavy feeders is best.
Can you count the number of army worms in this picture from August ‘21?
If you have areas in your lawn that are turning brown you can test for army worms by drenching the area with soapy water. If there are army worms present they will immediately come to the surface.
Army worms are present every year but in numbers that don’t usually cause turf damage. August ‘21 army worm populations were high enough they devastated areas of lawns in just a couple of days.
The best way you can protect your investment is to take a few minutes each weekto inspect your lawn, shrubs, trees and flowers.
Hall | Stewart offers a Tree & Shrub Care Program based on an Integrated Pest Management approach focused on plant health. The program includes dormant oils to smother overwintering insects in the late winter, systemic insecticides in the early spring, inspection and treatment as needed in the summer, and fertilizer applications in both the spring and fall.
Complete control is much easier when insects are noticed early, and populations are small.
Please let us know if you have any questions or concerns about your lawn and landscape.
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
Summertime = water time!
Happy 250th Birthday to the United States of America!
The July 4th Weekend! A time for parades, cookouts, family and fireworks.
A time to celebrate "America the Beautiful!"
O beautiful for spacious skies,
For amber waves of grain,
For purple mountain majesties
Above the fruited plain!
America! America!
God shed His grace on thee
And crown thy good with brotherhood
From sea to shining sea!
Central Oklahoma’s portion of “America the Beautiful” is a unique landscape, the only place in the United States, where four USDA ecoregions (Great Plains, Desert Southwest, Continental East, and the Humid South) come together.
Our portion of “America the Beautiful” with humidity, drought, pests and a wide range of high and low temperatures is a place filled with versatile landscapes, beautiful trees, shrubs, flowers of every color and wonderfully rich-green lawns.
For our portion of “America the Beautiful,” July is the month when temperatures rise and rainfall declines.
July is the month to put into place the best watering practices.
Best Watering Practices:
Apply 1” to 1.5” of water per week.
Your lawn and landscape need 1” to 1.5” of moisture per week when temperatures are consistently 90 degrees or higher.
Which begs the question: “How long should I water?”
Every irrigation system is different – different head types, different size nozzles, different head spacing, different soils, different slopes, etc.
Place a Hall | Stewart Rain Gauge in your lawn. Run your irrigation through a normal cycle. If your lawn received 1/2” of water, run your system 3 times per week during the heat of the summer to get 1.5” of water in your lawn. If your normal cycle yielded less than 1/2”, increase the run time until you receive at least 1/2” per cycle.
The best way to know how long you should water is to measure the amount of water your system puts out in each zone. Take a few cans and place them around your lawn in a random pattern. Run your sprinklers through a cycle and measure the amount of water in the cans. If the sprinklers ran for 15 minutes and you had .25” of water, that zone needs a total of 60 to 90 minutes of run time per week.
Next determine how long you can run your irrigation before there is excessive runoff. This will tell you how many times per week you need to water. If you can get away with watering every 4th day, you will have a healthier, stronger landscape.
If you don’t have the time to audit the amount of water your system puts out, start with these settings, monitor, and adjust:
Fixed spray pattern heads with 10-15’ spacings – 15 mins per time.
Larger rotor type heads on 20-30’ spacings – 30 mins per time.
My practice has been, using the best practices mentioned here, to water my fescue lawn every 4 days when temperatures are in the 90s and increase to every other day when the lawn shows signs of stress from lack of water.
Checking and adjusting your irrigation system is an important practice.
Set your controller to water with back-to-back run times.
For most of our landscapes, if you run our sprinklers long enough to get the recommended amount of water, you end up with a lot of water running down the street. Splitting zone run time in half and setting the controller to run through the zones back-to-back will improve the amount of water that soaks in and reduce the amount of water that runs off.
Example: Set the controller to run at 4:00 AM and 5:00 AM. When the 4:00 cycle completes, even if it is past 5:00, the controller will start the second cycle.
I know from experience that moist soil will absorb more water than dry soil. Soil is just like the sponge in your sink. A dried-out sponge repels water before it starts absorbing water. Your lawn is the same. The first cycle moistens the soil and the second cycle soaks in.
Split, back-to-back, irrigation cycles are an old golf course trick. Large commercial irrigation controllers have had a run/soak cycle setting that waters a short time, delays, and then waters a longer time for years. Now more and more smart controllers offer a run/soak cycle feature.
I started using split, back-to-back, irrigation cycles years ago on lawns with slopes.
After seeing great results, I started incorporating the concept on all lawns.
It makes a difference in watering efficiency.
Water in the early morning.
Evaporation is at the lowest point in the pre-dawn hours. Typically, wind is also at the lowest point of the day in the pre-dawn hours.
I prefer to set most irrigation controllers to start at 4:00 AM with the goal of having the cycle completed by 8:00 AM.
Avoid watering in the heat of the day when much of the water will be lost to evaporation. Also, avoid watering in the evening. Watering in the evening promotes many turf diseases because the lawn stays wet too long.
This is critical for fescue lawns. If fescue stays wet for more than 6 hours at a time and nighttime temperatures are in the 70’s, brown patch is unavoidable. Fescue performs best in the heat if it is watered deeply, and grass blades are dry by noon.
If you water your fescue lawn in both the morning and the evening during the summer because you “can’t seem to get enough water on it!”, your lawn isn’t struggling because it is too dry, your lawn is struggling because you have created the perfect conditions for brown patch, a fescue lawn’s worst enemy.
IMPORTANT: Don’t water fescue in the evening during the summer. When water remains in the leaf for more than 6 hours, brown patch disease will develop.
How much difference does infrequent, deep watering make when it comes to developing a drought tolerant lawn? This is a picture of a fescue lawn in full sun in August that is deep soaked every 4 days. The picture was taken in mid-August with less than a 1/4" rainfall in the previous 20 days.
Daily watering is not needed.
Unless you are trying to get newly planted seed to germinate or new sod to take root, there is not a good reason to water every day. Always water deep and infrequent. Daily, shallow watering creates a landscape that is shallow rooted and more dependent on constant moisture for survival.
Fescue will also benefit from deep soakings, every other day, through the summer months. Shallow, daily watering in the summer heat is very damaging to fescue. Again: Brown patch symptoms look very similar to draught stress. Typically, the more you water, the worse the fescue looks, so you add more water, and the cycle of decline continues.
A common myth I would love to dispel is that fescue requires a lot more water than bermuda. Yes, it does for a couple of weeks in the fall when you are trying to get newly seeded fescue to germinate, but mature fescue doesn’t require more moisture than bermuda.
Aeration improves moisture absorption.
You can’t beat aeration for improving your soil structure. A key benefit of improved soil structure is better water absorption. Lawns that receive annual aeration (or at least every other year) do not experience as much runoff.
Head to head coverage is when the water from one sprinkler head reaches all the way to the next head. Without head to head coverage, dry areas can develop around heads.
Fixing uneven water patterns in your lawn may be as simple as making sure heads are straight. A leaning head will result in uneven water distribution.
A clue to an uneven watering problem is an arc pattern matching the sweep of an irrigation head.
Always pay attention to water needs.
If we receive 1/2” of rain or more, turn your controller off for a few days. Install a rain sensor if you are not good at remembering. A rain sensor will pay for itself easily in one season.
Just because it is summer, don’t assume you can leave your controller in automatic and forget it.
Don’t stress if your lawn and landscape get a little dry, it will rebound quickly once water is applied.
A good indicator that your lawn needs water is the footprint test. If the grass retains your footprints instead of quickly springing back, it is time to resume watering.
Watch for uneven water patterns.
If you notice areas where the lawn color is fading, you may have uneven moisture patterns. This could be the result of a broken head, clogged nozzle, or a head that is out of adjustment.
Even if you don’t have an irrigation system, the concepts of good watering apply.
It is important to learn how long you need to water when you are using a hose end sprinkler. Next time you water, set out a few cans. You will be surprised how long you need to water to get the proper amount of water on your lawn.
Invest in a digital hose water timer, such as the ones made by Orbit. It will make it easier for you to control the timing and frequency of watering.
Newly planted trees and shrubs require more water.
Don’t assume your irrigation system is providing sufficient water for trees and shrubs planted this spring or summer. New landscapes need frequent attention during their first summer. Try to get at least 10 gals of water on new plants every week through the rest of the summer. Apply the water slowly close to the base of the plant over the root ball by placing a soaker hose or allowing a hose to slowly trickle. The goal is to water 8-12’ deep, wait 2-3 days and repeat.
For newly planted trees and shrubs, don’t assume your irrigation system is enough.
Newly planted trees and shrubs require additional water during their first summer. Don’t assume your irrigation is enough.
A soaker hose is a great tool for making sure new trees and shrubs are receiving sufficient water during their first summer.
If you need help in determining your lawn and landscape’s water needs, let us know.
We can schedule an irrigation audit for your lawn and landscape. We will inspect for uneven water distribution, absorb water rates, make recommended irrigation changes, and set the controller for optimal operation. Give us a call if we can help – (405)367-3873.
A healthy landscape is an important part of our environment.
A healthy turf helps clean the air, trap carbon dioxide, reduce erosion, improve groundwater quality, absorb noise, reduce temperatures, as well as adds cub appeal and value to your home.
A key component to a healthy landscape is correct water usage.
Best watering practices start with being aware of current weather patterns and adjusting watering schedules.
Best watering practices need to be your number one focus in the landscape for the next few weeks.
Best watering practices will have the biggest impact on the health and appearance of your lawn and landscape for the rest of the summer.
"America the Beautiful"
O beautiful for spacious skies,
For amber waves of grain,
For purple mountain majesties
Above the fruited plain!
America! America!
God shed His grace on thee
And crown thy good with brotherhood
From sea to shining sea!
O beautiful for pilgrim feet,
Whose stern, impassioned stress
A thoroughfare for freedom beat
Across the wilderness!
America! America!
God mend thine every flaw,
Confirm thy soul in self-control,
Thy liberty in law!
O beautiful for heroes proved
In liberating strife,
Who more than self their country loved
And mercy more than life!
America! America!
May God thy gold refine,
Till all success be nobleness,
And every gain divine!
O beautiful for patriot dream
That sees beyond the years
Thine alabaster cities gleam
Undimmed by human tears!
America! America!
God shed His grace on thee
And crown thy good with brotherhood
From sea to shining sea!
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
July Lawn & Landscape Tips
July, the first full month of summer.
July, the month summer blooming trees, shrubs, perennials and annuals, keep adding brilliant colors to our world.
July, the month warm season lawns (bermuda, zoysia) are at their best.
July, the month every warm season plant is living its best life.
July, the month your lawn and landscape, more than any other time of year, needs you to keep an eye on how they are doing. July can be mild, or July can be extremely warm. July can bring occasional rains, but often it can be the month that the rain showers just never make it all the way to the metro.
Regardless of what July has in store, our goal is to help you have a landscape that not only survives an Oklahoma July, but actually thrives.
Let's take a look at a few things that will make a difference in your lawn and landscape this July:
Two of July’s most prolific bloomers: Crape Myrtle and Limelight Hydrangea.
Watering
The biggest determiner on your lawn and landscape thriving through the hottest and driest periods of the summer is practicing the best water techniques. I know…we are repeating ourselves, but it is so important that we are going to keep saying it.
Best watering practices:
The #1 best watering practice is to be aware of how much rain your lawn and landscape have received within the past 7 days. Rainfall often varies greatly from neighborhood to neighborhood. OKC official rainfall may not be your rainfall. A rain gauge can be your best friend.
Your lawn and landscape needs 1” to 1.5” per week through the summer.
Place the Hall|Stewart Rain Gauge in your lawn, give your lawn a good deep soaking and then check the gauge. If you have ½” of water in the gauge you need to water 3 times per week.
Water deep. If you can get ¾-1” of water on your lawn without excessive runoff, water every 4 days. Deep watering creates deep roots and a more drought tolerant lawn.
Set your controller to water with back-to-back run times. If a zone needs to run 30 minutes to get the correct amount of water, set it for 15 minutes and program two hours apart. Example: 4:00 AM & 6:00 AM. This ‘Best Practice” will increase the amount of water that soaks into your lawn and reduce the amount of runoff.
Water in the early morning. Evaporation is at the lowest point in the pre-dawn hours and typically wind is at its lowest point. Evening water promotes turf diseases, such as brown patch, and should be avoided.
Daily watering does more harm than good. Short daily watering results in shallow rooted turf and a lawn dependent on constant moisture to survive.
Anytime we receive ½” of rain or more, don’t water for a few days.
Aeration improves moisture absorption.
Watering Tip –
Most people don’t realize how long you need to run the sprinkler to get 1” to 1.5” moisture
on your lawn in a week. If your lawn and landscape struggling,
take time to place cans around the lawn to collect water. Water your lawn as you normally
do and then measure the amount of water in the containers.
If you collected 1/3” to ½”, you are watering long enough for every other day watering.
If you didn’t collect enough during a typical watering, increase the water time
and continue watering every other day.
The temptation is to start watering every day, but this creates a shallow rooted landscape
that is more dependent on daily water.
Deep watering every other day is the key to a lawn that will thrive in July.
Want to know more about Best Watering Practices?
Coral Bells is a perennial that adds color and texture to the shade to partial shade landscape. You can find varieties with shades of burgundy, yellows, purple and silver.
We are a strong believer in the benefits of not catching your clippings when mowing as long as they are not noticeable. Heavy clippings always need to be cleared from the turf.
Mowing Tip -
One of the biggest differences between a good lawn and a great lawn in the heat of the year is not bagging the clippings. Allowing finely mowed clippings to stay on the lawn returns moisture and nutrients to the soil.
Fescue is heat tolerant when best practices are followed: deep watering every other day, mowing at 3” with no more than 1/3 cut off per time, and not bagging the clippings.
Mowing
For warm season turfs (bermuda and zoysia) gradually raise the height of your mower. Bermuda should be mowed between 1.5” to 2.5” during the summer heat. Fescue, cool season turf, should be maintained at its maximum height, 3” to 3.5” now. The more leaf space you have the more drought resistant your lawn will be. Mow often enough that you only remove 1/3” of the grass each time. For healthy, irrigated, and fertilized Bermuda, if possible, mow every 4-5 days for the best lawn. If you are mowing often enough and only removing 1/3 of the growth, don’t catch the clippings. Grass leaves are mostly water and nitrogen and break down very quickly into the soil. If your lawn has a brown cast to it after you mow, you are cutting below the leaves and into the stems. Stems do not break down quickly and can lead to thatch build-up, so if this is the case, it is best to bag when mowing.
Mulch mowing is one of the most beneficial things you can do for your lawn. The key is mowing frequently enough that you are removing no more than 1/3 of the leaf blade.
The tropical type flowers of hardy hibiscus thrive in the heat of July.
Lantana and Coleus are heat loving annual summer color plants.
Limelight Hydrangea
Limelight Hydrangeas grace the July landscapes with large lime-white blooms.
White Wedding Hydrangea is from the Southern Living Collection with sturdy branches that support large, bright white blooms and grows to 4-5’.
Brown Patch
One benefit of the dry air of July is less brown patch disease in fescue lawns. Brown patch occurs when there is excessive moisture, high humidity, and/or high due points when nighttime temperatures are in the 70’s or more and daytime temperatures are in the 90s. Brown patch is worse in areas with dense shade and/or low wind movement. Anytime the leaf blades of your fescue stay wet for more than 6 hours at a time in the summer, brown patch is unavoidable.
The temptation is to water fescue more frequently in the summer. It is common for us to find fescue lawns with the irrigation set to run morning and night creating the perfect conditions for the disease to spread. If you have heavy shade and/or low wind movement (most smaller backyards) water after sunrise and no more than every other day. Resist the urge to water more. Your fescue is not dying due to summer heat, it is struggling with brown patch.
Black Eyed Susan is a favorite perennial during the month of July.
Sunpatiens do well through the summer heat in Full Sun to Part Shade.
Penta is another summer annual that enjoys Full Sun to Part Shade.
Brown Patch Disease will make you think your fescue lawn isn’t getting water, so you respond with more water, which makes the lawn look worse, so you water more…. This fescue lawn was extremely wet this week resulting in self-induced Brown Patch.
Fescue Tip –
The key to fescue surviving the summer is not watering more.
The key is deep soaking every other day.
Watering daily, or as some are known to do, watering twice per day,
is one of the worse things for fescue in the summer heat.
Keeping fescue wet will always promote Brown Patch disease.
Crape Myrtles respond to the heat of July with bold pinks, purples, whites, and reds.
Through the summer heat Caladiums and Inpatients will perform well in Full Shade to Part Sun.
Fertilizer
Because warm season grasses are actively growing, they need feeding during July. The plan is to use fertilizer with a 3 to 1 to 1 of nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K), plus iron (Fe) for added color. Most of our soil has plenty of phosphorus and potassium, but nitrogen needs to be replaced. July is a great month for turf development and a thick, healthy growing lawn is the best defense against weeds. Do not fertilize fescue lawns now. As a cool season grass, fertilizer in the heat of the summer on fescue will cause damage.
Bermuda lawns look their best in the heat of the year when they are properly fertilized, mowed and watered.
Periwinkle is one of the best annual color plants during the hottest periods of the summer.
Weed Control
If you are on a regular lawn care application program, and if your first application was made prior to mid-March, you shouldn’t be experiencing many summer annual weeds. A common weed this time of year is nutsedge. Nutsedge thrives in tight, wet soils. Areas with poor drainage and overwatered turf are frequent trouble spots. If you didn’t get an early pre-emergent, you most likely have a good crop of crabgrass now. Controlling weeds in the heat of the year often can cause more damage to the turf than is beneficial. It is important that label instructions are always followed when spraying weeds. Don’t over apply. What is most important in July is developing thick, healthy turf. If you are too aggressive on weeds now, you will have weak spots that are more susceptible to weeds in the future.
Nutsedge
Seasonal color plantings with three layers add depth to the landscape. This planting uses Scaevola for the first layer, Sunpatiens in the middle, and Coleus in the back.
Shrub Pruning
Selective pruning and light shearing should be practiced during the summer heat. If possible, wait to do major pruning during the hottest periods of the summer. Avoid any pruning or shearing on spring blooming plants because you will be removing flower buds and reducing the show next spring.
Early July is your last chance to trim spring blooming plants such as azalea without reducing next spring’s blooms.
Turf areas that receive less than 4 hours of direct sunlight is considered Full Shade. Fescue is the best turf choice in Full Shade to Partial Shade areas.
Aphids
Bagworms
Bagworm
Bagworms continue to be the biggest insect issue currently. Not only are they attacking needle evergreens, but also deciduous trees and shrubs. Inspect your plants frequently.
Aphids thrive in the hot weather resulting in an increase in activity the past couple of weeks. They are easy to spot. Look for glossy, wet looking leaves. The leaves will be sticky and the underside will be covered with insects.
If you see more than an occasional grub when digging in your landscape, we recommend treatment. An occasional grub is good for the environment, but as with most insects, too many and they will cause damage to your lawn.
Insect Watch
The first step to healthy plants is inspecting them regularly and then treating as needed. If you attempt to treat on a schedule, you will find that you often will miss the target pest. These are the insects that are currently most active:
Bagworms – Common on needle evergreens (juniper, cedar, cypress, etc.). If a plant is already stressed due to heat or draught, bagworms can kill the plant. Inspect often and treat as needed.
Aphids – Small sap-sucking insects that leave plants with a honeydew, sticky substance on leaves. Aphids are easy to spot. If the leaves appear unusually glossy stop and look under the leaf and you will find insects hard at work. Aphids thrive in hot, dry conditions.
Spider Mites - They also gather on the underside of leaves but are very small and hard to see. The first sign you may have spider mites is a plant with weak looking, yellowish leaves. Take a white sheet of paper, place it below the leaf and lightly shake the leaf. If you see small specs of red, yellow, and brown on the paper and they start moving around, it isn’t dust and dirt you are seeing, it is spider mites.
Grub Worms – If you have experienced grub damage in the past, or if you have noticed a lot of June bugs around your landscape, July through August is a good window to apply an application for control. Grub worms are the larva form of the June bug. June bugs have laid their eggs, and they are hatching now. Grubs are easiest to control when the new grub is small and feeding close to the surface in July and August.
Spider Mite activity will make a healthy plant look weak with yellowing, speckled leaves.
Place a white sheet of paper under a branch and gently shake the branch. If you see small specs on the paper that are moving around, you are seeing spider mites.
If you have brown patches of turf and can easily pull back the turf, most likely you have grub worms damaging your lawn.
Lantana loves Full Sun but also performs well in Part Sun.
Tree Leaves
Expect some leaf drop on deciduous trees in the summer heat. Some leaf drop is normal as the tree naturally adjusts to less moisture and more heat. The fun fact about most trees is they have a secondary set of buds. If they are stressed, they naturally drop leaves to survive, and then re-bud as they recover.
July, more than any other month, requires you to keep your eye on how your lawn and landscape are doing.
Inspect regularly for insect activity.
Make sure your landscape is getting the correct amount of moisture.
And, mow frequently for the best curb appeal.
We want your lawn and landscape to not only survive this summer, we want it to thrive!
If you have any lawn or landscape concerns, needs, or questions, please give us a call.
Lorne Hall
Hall|Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873