Lorne Hall 2/1/26 Lorne Hall 2/1/26

February – Winter or Spring?

What is your opinion of February?

Do you think of February as the end of winter?

Or, do you think of February as the beginning of spring?

The reality is… February can go either way.

Sometimes February feels like winter is never going to end — other times February feels like spring has arrived with bulbs, shrubs and trees bursting to life.

*If we receive a snow this February, take time to find to notice the stark red branches of the Red Twig Dogwood against pure white snow.*

Either way, February means we are getting closer to the browns of winter being replaced with the colors of spring!

And, no matter which way this February trends, it is time to shake off your winter break from lawn and landscape activities and get focused on setting up your lawn and landscape for your best year yet.

You may have had time to handle some of these tasks during January, if so, you are ahead. But, if not, it is time to get busy. We are down to the last few weeks to get your lawn and landscape ready for the coming season.

*For your best lawn this season, a pre-emergent application must be put on your lawn before the first of March.*

Weed Control

In early January, as weather allowed, we began applying the very important first step of our lawn care program to many of your lawns. For your best lawn this year, it is critical you have a pre-emergent herbicide on your turf to prevent spring and summer weeds before early March. Many summer weeds germinate when soil temperatures reach 55 degrees, which typically occurs sometime during the first two weeks of March in central Oklahoma. Soil temperatures are currently in the upper 30s but will reach the critical weed germination point within the next 30-40 days. Along with applying the first pre-emergent of the year, now is the perfect time to be more aggressive in controlling existing weeds in bermuda lawns. If you have a fescue lawn, now is also a good time for pre and post-emergent weed control, but if you are applying your own weed control it is critical you read the label first and ensure it is safe for fescue. Never assume that an herbicide is okay on any turf type.

Key Point: For the best lawn this year your lawn needs a pre-emergent application before soil temperatures reach 55 degrees in early March.

Want to learn more about preventing weeds? Read our article from January 11th, Why is an Early Lawn Care Application So Important?

*Because crabgrass is fast growing and spreads quickly, it can have a dominant presence in your lawn by May without a spring pre-emergent.*

Dormant Oil

Many insects, such as scale, aphids, mites and leaf hoppers, overwinter on trees and shrubs. Spray with a dormant oil when the temperature is above freezing before the end of the month (before bud break), and you will have less insect issues on your trees and shrubs during the season. Dormant oil can also reduce some fungal pathogens.

Always read and follow the label before spraying. Some plants, such as blue spruce and blue juniper, can experience temporary loss of color if sprayed by Dormant Oils.

Key Point: Dormant oils will reduce, and possibly eliminate, some insects.

For more information on dormant oil applications, read our post from January 18th, Dormant Oils – A Proactive Approach to Insect Control.

*Over the past few seasons Crape Myrtles have been problems with white scale. The first step in gaining control of the insect is a dormant oil treatment.*

Before warm season lawns come out of dormancy is one of the best times to control and prevent weeds. — *The best time to control and prevent weeds is before warm season lawns come out of dormancy.*

*An application of a dormant oil this month will smother overwintering insects such as aphids.*

*Assuming February brings us a gradual warm up we are only 30 days away from daffodil blossoms.*

Watering

Winter moisture is important for the health of your lawn and landscape. Last weeks snow fall, a dry snow, equaled a good, slow soaking ½” of moisture. Continue to monitor moisture through February and anytime we go 7-10 days without moisture, pick a nice day and give your lawn and landscape a deep soaking. The goal in the winter is to get ½” of moisture on your lawn and landscape every 2 weeks.

Key Point: Winter plant damage is more likely to occur when plant roots are dry during an extended cold period.

It is a good practice to wrap the trunks of young Maple trees to prevent trunk damage in February and March. Commonly known as southwest injury, it is caused by sap rising on warm days followed by freezing temperatures at night resulting in damage to the bark.

Fescue

Fescue lawns go into winter with a rich green color and gradually fade in color through the winter. The amount of color loss is directly related to how dry and cold of a winter we have. One of the best benefits of last week’s 8” snow fall is the blanket of protection from the single digit temperatures and cold winds while trapping the warmth of the soil. Don’t be surprised if fescue lawns look a little more vibrant once all the snow is melted.

What can you expect from your fescue in February? Every year there is a turning point when temperatures rise, there is abundant moisture and almost overnight, fescue lawns regain their rich green color. A full recovery can happen as early as mid-February or as late as mid-March.

Key Point: Hold your judgment on the condition of your fescue lawn for another 4-6 weeks.

What can you do for your fescue lawn?

Sometime between late February and early March, remove the freeze-dried leaf blades by cutting the lawn shorter. You don’t have to scalp it. Just cut it enough to remove the brown leaf ends.

Key Point: Cut your fescue a little shorter in a few weeks to remove the brown leaf tips.

*We could be only three weeks away from seeing spring color!*

Soil Test

If your lawn did not respond as expected to fertilizer last year, you may have a soil problem. It is a good idea to have your soil tested every two to three years to ensure the soil will continue to yield a healthy landscape. A soil analysis will provide you with the pH and levels of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. A pH range of 6.0 to 7.5 is acceptable for most plants.

If you would like to schedule a soil test respond to this email or call (405)367-3873. We will gather a sample and deliver it to the lab. Once we have the soil test results, we will send you a report and prescribe a soil amendment plan if needed.

Key Point: For the best lawn and landscape, have your soil tested every two to three years.

*One of the first announcements of spring comes from the bright golden yellow of the forsythia. When will it declare spring this year? Before the end of February? Or March?*

*Later this month Crabapple blossoms will burst to life.*

Tree Pruning

Continue to work on tree pruning with the goal of completing maintenance and restorative pruning before trees leaf in March.

Want to know the details on tree pruning? Visit our article from December 7th, Winter Tree Pruning.

*If you planted daffodil bulbs in November or December, this is less than 30 days away!*

Lawn Maintenance

Continue to keep leaves and debris removed from the landscape. Later this month or early in March, cut the lawn for the first time. It is not necessary to scalp the lawn all the way to the soil. We recommend cutting the lawn at or just below the height you desire to maintain it at during the spring and early summer.

*Have you noticed the Winterberry? Winterberry is a deciduous holly that adds interest to the winter landscape with a vibrant show of red berries.*

Lawn Equipment

If you mow your own lawn, February is a perfect time to get your mower ready for the new season. I am a firm believer in having your lawn mower professionally serviced every winter. Not only will you have less mower headaches during the season, you also can expect a longer mower life. Most shops offer a winter tune-up special where they put in a new spark plug, change the oil and filter, replace the air filter if needed, put in fresh fuel with stabilizer, and sharpen the blade.

*We are only 4-5 weeks away from Oklahoma’s State Tree, the Redbud, brightening our days.*

Over the next few weeks there will be days that we think winter will never end and there will be strings of days that have us all thinking spring has arrived.

Don’t let a spring-like February day pass without spending some time outside.

By the end of the month, we will all be singing….

I see trees of green

Red roses too

I see them bloom

For me and you

And I think to myself

What a wonderful world

I see skies of blue

And clouds of white

The bright blessed day

The dark sacred night

And I think to myself

What a wonderful world

Yes, I think to myself

What a wonderful world!

If you need help with any of these tasks or have questions, please give us a call.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

Lorne Hall 1/25/26 Lorne Hall 1/25/26

Snow & Your Landscape

Are you a snow lover?

Or, are you one that hopes we make it through the winter snow free?

If your lawn and landscape have a vote, they are voting for snow!

Fresh snow is like a warm blanket on a cold night to your landscape!

Snowfall is nature’s way of insulating your valuable lawn and landscape from cold temperatures. A fresh snow cover of more than 2” is very beneficial to the landscape by trapping soil warmth below the snow.

Without snow, soil temperatures fluctuate more, dipping deeper during cold spells. It is common to see soil temperatures at 2” below the soil surface 4 to 8 degrees warmer with a snow cover when temperatures are in the single digits without a snow cover.

With subzero temperatures in the forecast over the next few days, your lawn and landscape is very thankful to have a blanket of snow trapping the warm soil temperatures around its roots and keeping the cold windy temperatures at bay.

Snowfall is moisture!

If we get a ½” rainfall, there is a lot of runoff.

But, when snow melts, it slowly soaks in. Nearly every single drop benefits the roots of your turf, flowers, shrubs and trees.

On the average, a 10” snow equals a 1” rainfall. With a wet snow, your landscape may receive an inch of moisture for every 5” of snow. With a dry snowfall, it takes 15” of snow to equal a 1” rainfall.

Believe me, as dry as the climate has been this winter, your lawn and landscape will take every drop it can squeeze out of the white powder!

The Old Farmer’s Almanac calls snow a “poor man’s fertilizer.”

Snow is full of nitrogen. As snow falls it collects nitrogen that is naturally in the air and distributes it evenly over your lawn and landscape.

Even though spring green up is still a few weeks away, don’t be surprised if our lawn and landscapes look a little more alive as the snow melts away.

So, which are you?

Snow lover?

Snow hater?

I know where your lawn and landscape stand on the snow issue!

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

Lorne Hall 1/18/26 Lorne Hall 1/18/26

Dormant Oils – a Proactive Approach to Insect Control

It’s January, so lawn care professionals and lawn enthusiasts appear to be singularly focused on one thing:

Appling pre-emergent herbicides to prevent annual weeds from germinating this spring!

But wait, Isn’t there something else we should be focused on?

Isn’t there also a way to prevent insects from overtaking your trees and shrubs this spring and summer?

Yes! You should also be applying Dormant Oils to trees and shrubs now.

A Dormant Oil Application now is to insect control what a Pre-emergent Herbicide Application is to weed control.

What is Dormant Oil?

Dormant Oils are an ecofriendly, effective way to control overwintering eggs and insects.

Commonly referred to as Dormant Oils, but technically they are Horticultural Oils. The common name Dormant Oils came about because they are sprayed on trees and shrubs while they are in dormancy before buds open in the spring.

Dormant oils are not poisonous or harmful to humans or pets.

*Oak Scale, also known as Soft Scale is a common pest on oaks and cause stunting and twig dieback. A dormant oil application is the first step in controlling the pest.*

*Aphids are small sap-sucking insects that excretes a large amount of sticky honeydew May through September. A dormant oil application will help smother aphids eggs that overwinter on branches.*

How Does A Dormant Oil Work?

Dormant oils work by suffocating, smoother overwintering insects. Oil blocks the air holes causing the insect to suffocate. In some cases, the oil acts as a poison and at times the oil can interfere with how an insect feeds.

What Insects Do Dormant Oils Control?

Dormant oils typically target two types of insects, sucking and chewing pests.

Dormant oils control scale insects, aphids, some borers, and mites that are overwintering on trees and shrubs. They also can be effective as a fungicide to combat powdery mildew, leaf spot, and rust.

Two pest dormant oils target have become a common problem in our landscapes: scale and aphids.

Scale – White bark scale on crape myrtles is a problem in central Oklahoma. The insect is invasive and results in a black mold along the branches and trunk. Although the scale is rarely fatal to the plant, they are responsible for stunted growth, reduced flowering and decreased aesthetics.

Aphids – A few aphids are not a problem and do not require treatment. But if populations increase, they can cause damage. Application of dormant oil in the late winter or spring is the best preventive step to control aphids and is recommended.

Crape myrtles often struggle with scale and aphids and benefit from an annual dormant oil application.

*The first sign of a spider mite problem is a plant that is showing signs of decline and the foliage takes on a yellow cast. Dormant oils can be used to kill mite eggs.*

*Spider mites are very small pest visible as small pepper sized specs that move on a white sheet of paper. Dormant oils can be used to kill mite eggs.*

When Should Dormant Oils Be Applied?

Applications should be made from winter to early spring while trees and shrubs are dormant.

The goal is to make the application while the plants are hardened off over the winter and before new buds or shoots start growing in the spring.

Treatments should be made when temperatures are above 32 degrees and winds are light.

Even coverage of all branches is very important to ensure the oils coat insects.

Do not spray on wet plants.

Always read and follow the label before spraying. Some plants, such as blue spruce and blue juniper, can experience temporary loss of color if sprayed by Dormant Oils.

“Right now, is the perfect time to take care of overwintering pests hiding in your trees and shrubs. Hall | Stewart’s Tree & Shrub Care Program Application #1 includes dormant oils. It is the easiest and most effective way to keep scale, mites, aphids, and other overwintering insects under control before they cause problems this spring and summer.”

*Dormant oil applications are an effective way to control scale on trunks and branches.*

White scale on crape myrtle is a problem in central Oklahoma. If you have crape myrtles in your landscape, a dormant oil application is recommended.

Who Should Schedule A Dormant Oil Application Now?

Anyone who has struggled with aphids, mites or scale in the past year.
Anyone desiring an eco-friendlier approach to insect control.
Anyone who wants to reduce insect populations now instead of waiting until the growing season when harsher control methods are required.

Protect your landscape investment with a Dormant Oil Application this winter!

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

Lorne Hall 1/11/26 Lorne Hall 1/11/26

Why is an Early Lawn Care Application so important?

Why? Because when it comes to having a clean, weed free lawn this year, what you do, or don’t do, for your lawn between now and the end of February will determine the condition of your lawn this year.

There are many reasons for a weedy lawn:

Weeds are common in unhealthy soil,
Thin turf is an invitation for weeds to fill in the voids,
Weeds thrive in compacted soils,
Drought stressed lawns are a favorite target for weeds,
and the list goes on and on and on….

But, the most common reason for weeds is failure to apply a pre-emergent herbicide at the right time.

The early Spring Pre-Emergent application is the first step, and a critical step, in growing a weed free, healthy lawn this year.

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape has started applying the first application containing the early Spring Pre-Emergent to lawns, making sure all our clients receive the critical first step in weed prevention at the right time.

Year round we field a lot of questions about the best way to have a weed free, healthy lawn.

When do we get most questions about weeds? You are right, after a lawn is covered with weeds – when it is hard to gain control without causing damage to the turf.

The right time to have a conversation about weeds is before they germinate. Prevention of weeds is much easier and healthier than controlling them later.

Let’s cover a few key questions about weed prevention:

Why is the early spring pre-emergent so critical?

Summer annual weeds come up every year. An annual weed grows, reseeds, and dies all in one year. There are both grassy and broadleaf annual weeds. A quality pre-emergent herbicide will prevent many types of weeds.

The most aggressive annual grassy weed is crabgrass.

If you had a single crabgrass plant in your lawn last year, or your neighbor’s lawn had crabgrass, or your neighbor’s neighbors had crabgrass, there is a 100% chance you will have crabgrass this summer if you DO NOT apply a pre-emergent to your lawn this spring.

If you have a fescue lawn it is very important to make sure the products you put on your lawn are safe. The first lawn application of the year is one that you have to be careful not to put the wrong herbicide on fescue or you will cause damage.

Dallisgrass is often confused with crabgrass during the summer. Dallisgrass goes dormant in the winter but the rhizomes stay alive. The first application of the year as a good time to gain control and reduce the spread of this difficult weed.

*A weed free lawn this summer starts with a pre-emergent application before the end of February.*

Why am I so sure you will have crabgrass if you skip the early spring pre-emergent application?

A single crabgrass plant produces thousands of seeds. Because crabgrass is so prolific, even the nicest lawn in your neighborhood last summer can be full of crabgrass this summer if a pre-emergent is not applied this year.

*Because crabgrass is an annual grassy weed, without a spring pre-emergent even the best lawns will have crabgrass this summer.*

*Mid summer lawn that did not have any pre-emergent in the spring.*

What is the best timing for the first lawn care application?

With thousands of seeds lying dormant in the soil, as soon as conditions are right, germination will begin. Germination of crabgrass occurs typically in early to mid-March in central Oklahoma.

The key determination is soil temperature. When soil temperatures consistently reach 55 degrees, germination occurs. Currently, soil temperatures in the Oklahoma City area are in the low-40s.

Between now and early March, soil temperatures will go up and down, gradually creeping up until they reach that right temperature for summer weed germination.

Lawns that receive the early spring pre-emergent application sometime between now and the end of February have the best chance to be weed free this year.

Will one pre-emergent application per year be enough?

Crabgrass is one of the first annual weeds to germinate each spring, but it does not germinate all at once. Germination of seeds will continue throughout the summer.

Other summer annual grassy weeds such as goosegrass, foxtail, and sandbur will germinate soon after crabgrass. Knotweed and spurge are summer annual broadleaf weeds that will germinate even later.

Summer annuals germinate from mid-March through the summer.

Pre-emergent herbicides will not provide coverage for the entire summer growing season. A pre-emergent works by creating a blanket over the soil to prevent seeds from germinating. Rain, irrigation, foot traffic, all combine to gradually break down the herbicide.

Full summer control is only attainable if you repeat the application again between early March and the end of May, 6-12 weeks after the first application.

*A lawn care application between now and the end of a February will prevent crabgrass from coming up in March.*

Does a pre-emergent need to be applied as a liquid or can it be spread as a granular?

Pre-emergent herbicides come in both forms, and either is effective as long as the product is applied evenly, creating continuous weed barrier. Watering the product into the root zone is important. Always follow instructions left on your door anytime an application is made to your lawn.

For the do it yourselfer, it is important to study and follow the label. Know your grass type and make sure the product you are applying is approved for your lawn.

Don’t over apply. Pre-emergent herbicides work by drying out weed seeds. Too much pre-emergent will stunt root growth and slow spring green-up.

And, for the DIYer, only buy what you need per application to limit the amount of product you have left lying around the garage.

*Pre-emergent applications are typically a liquid spray and have a slight color making it easy for the professional lawn care specialist to create an even weed barrier across a lawn.*

Why are pre-emergent sprays blue-green?

Actually, they are not. Some lawn care companies add dye to their herbicide to use as a marking pattern. We are not a proponent of using dye. Most pre-emergent herbicides have light coloring that aid the lawn care professional in applying the product evenly to the surface.

We find dyes messy — they give the natural landscape an artificial look and add an unnecessary chemical to your landscape.

*For your best lawn this summer an early season pre-emergent must be applied before the end of February.*

Most importantly, for the best lawn in 2026, you must apply a pre-emergent to your lawn before the end of February.

If you subscribe to a Hall | Stewart Lawn Care Program, you can count on receiving your application before any chance of summer weed germination begins.

If you are not currently subscribed to a Hall | Stewart Lawn Care Program, give us a call (405)367-3873 or click the link & we will provide you with a Free Professional Lawn Evaluation.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

Lorne Hall 1/4/26 Lorne Hall 1/4/26

January Lawn + Landscape Tips

Happy New Year to Your Lawn & Landscape!

For those who are always in pursuit of their best lawn and landscape, January is the month to review the year just completed and plan for the season to come.

Besides reviewing and planning for the season, there a few critical things to do in January that will make a big difference in the success of your lawn and landscape in 2026:

Top of the list for January: Make sure your lawn and landscape has sufficient moisture!

Moisture

The biggest challenge for your winter landscape is lack of moisture. The Oklahoma City metro area is currently on week 6 without a good rainfall. December was our second driest December on record. One of the most critical aspects of plant winter survival is good soil moisture. Through the winter keep an eye on rainfall and soil moisture. Anytime we go 7-10 days without any moisture, rain, or snow, be prepared to water. Evergreen plants, both needle and broadleaf, are most susceptible to winter damage when we have a dry winter. Don’t forget to inspect containers, raised plantings, and plantings under the eaves of your house are the first to become too dry.

Irrigation Best Practice – If your system has a rain/freeze sensor and if your system does not need to be winterized (Backflow has heat protection), set your system to run through a cycle one time per week in the afternoon.

If it is above freezing and it hasn’t rained, the system will run through a cycle.

Mulch

A great landscape practice for improving survivability of your landscape plantings is a fresh layer of mulch. A 2-3” layer of mulch will provide insulation for your plant roots, retain moisture, and moderate soil temperatures.

Lawn Pre-Emergent

Your best chance to have a weed free lawn in 2026 is to apply a pre-emergent in January or February. The purpose of a pre-emergent is to prevent weed seeds from germinating. The next weeds to germinate in your lawn will be the ones that haunt you all summer. Spring and summer weeds will start growing as soon as soil temperatures start to warm in early March.

*A great time to control grassy weeds in dormant Bermuda is January and February .*

*Nonselective herbicides can be used while the turf is completely dormant to control any weeds that are actively growing.*

*Your best chance for a weed free lawn this season is to apply a pre-emergent in January or February.*

If you are a subscriber to a *Hall | Stewart’s Lawn Care Program**, we will be visiting your lawn very soon to apply the critical first application of the year to prevent spring and summer weeds.*

Lawn Post-Emergent

If you have a warm season lawn (Bermuda and Zoysia), now that we have received freezing temperatures it is one of the best times to gain control of troublesome grassy and broadleaf weeds. Nonselective weed control (herbicides that control anything that is actively growing) can be used while the turf is completely dormant. Now is also a good time to control broadleaf weeds growing in fescue, but do not use a nonselective herbicide on fescue. Always read the labels, know your turf type, and only apply herbicides labeled for your turf type.

Tree Trim

During winter dormancy, tree trimming is a great practice. Remove low hanging branches, crossing branches, and branches growing into the interior of the tree. Also, remove branches that may compete with the central leader.

For more information on tree trimming, visit our post from December 7th, Winter Tree Pruning – Improve Your Landscape Investment.

Dormant Oil

During January and February, one of the best things you can do to prepare your landscape plants for the season is to treat them with a dormant oil. Dormant oils smother overwintering insects (aphids, scale, mites, etc.) that often are some of the most difficult to control.

Crape myrtle bark scale activity has increased over the past few seasons. Scale is a white insect with a hard shell that appears on the bark. Dormant oils applied in January-February is the first step for controlling the pest. If your landscape includes crape myrtles, you need a dormant oil application every year.

*When leaves accumulate in the corners of your lawn during the winter they become a collecting place for insects and disease.*

Soil Test

If your lawn, shrubs, or trees struggled in 2025, now would be a great time to check the soil pH and nutrients.

Key soil measurements that determine soil health include pH, total exchange capacity, organic matter and nutrients.

Unhealthy Soil = Sick Lawn & Landscape

Soil Test Results + Recommendations = Healthy Lawn & Landscape

When key soil measurements are out of balance, your lawn and landscape will not respond correctly to fertilizer and weed control applications.

Give Hall | Stewart a call and we will gather a sample and take it to the lab. With soil test results, we will formulate a custom plan to return your lawn to a healthy condition.

Leaf Clean-up

Keep your lawn and landscape clear of leaves through the winter. If you allow leaves to collect on your fescue lawn, in the corners and around objects, you will find the fescue thinner in the spring. Also, leaves are a collecting place for insects and disease over the winter.

Mower Maintenance

During the mowing off season take your lawn equipment in for annual winter service. Most lawn equipment stores offer specials during January on oil changes, lubrication, blade sharpening, and repairs. Annual preventive maintenance often keeps you from experiencing the frustration and hassle of repair issues during the growing season and extends your mower life.

Set Lawn and Landscape Goals for 2026

Here are a few practices that may be just what you need to take your lawn and landscape from good to great in 2026:

Aeration – Our best lawns, the ones with the healthiest root system, thickest turf, best weed resistance and most drought tolerant are the ones that receive annual aeration.
Soil Test – If your lawn is slow to respond to fertilizer and weed treatments, it could be that you have a soil imbalance. A simple test will tell us what we need to know to create your best lawn.
Fall Overseed – Annual fescue seeding any area of your lawn that does not receive at least 5 hours a full sunlight daily to eliminate thinning and bare areas is an important step in having a great lawn.
Watering Habits – Make it a goal to learn the best way to water your lawn. A healthy lawn and landscape is watered infrequently and deeply. Frequency and length of watering is different for every lawn. Set aside time early in the season to discover the best way to water your lawn.
Landscape Refresh – From seasonal color plantings to your front landscape to your outdoor living spaces, what needs to be refreshed this year?
Plant Health Care – Your landscape represents an important investment in your property. Annual inspection and treatment of your trees and shrubs is a good practice.
Lawn and Landscape Journal – Make it a habit of taking lawn and landscape pictures and making notes through the seasons. Every season, every year is different. Having good notes helps you adjust to changing conditions from season to season.

If you have any questions, or if you need help making 2026 your best lawn and landscape year, please give us a call (405)367-3873, or simply respond to this email.

One Important Winter Note – Avoid walking on fescue lawns when temperatures are below freezing or there is frost as it will cause damage that will last into the spring.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

Lorne Hall 12/28/25 Lorne Hall 12/28/25

Happy New Year!

Here’s to the week between Christmas and New Years!

The pace is still a little slower…

Extra time with family and friends continues…

And, good or bad depending on your view, there are often holiday sweets still within arm’s reach.

The week between Christmas and New Years is a favorite of mine. It is the week when my thoughts turn toward reflection of the past 12 months and my mind starts anticipating the possibilities of a new year.

Reviewing and setting goals has been a part of my New Year’s tradition as long as I can remember.

How about you?

Do you make it a practice to review your year and set goals for the new year?

What is your favorite method?

A few of my favorite goal setting concepts over the years have been SMART Goals (Specific, Measurable, Achievable, Relevant and Time-bound) and One Word (Choosing a single word to guide your goals).

December through January, while the schedules at Hall | Stewart are not quite as hectic, we have made it a practice to gather the entire team for a book study.

Over the last few years our Winter Learning Series has delved into the better business strategies found in Jack Stack’s The Great Game of Business.

We have learned the key is to care, through an in-depth walk-through of Ken Blanchard’s Legendary Service.

And, we learned up-serving, increasing what we can do for others, is the key to sales in our study of Daniel Pink’s To Sell is Human.

This winter, to help each of us grow personally, we are digging into James Clear’s Atomic Habits.

Atomic: 1. An extremely small amount of a thing; the single irreducible unit of a larger system. 2. The source of immense energy or power.

Habit: 1. A routine or practice performed regularly, an automatic response to a specific situation.

In Atomic Habits, James Clear challenges prevailing wisdom claims that all you need to do is set specific, actionable goals. Yes, he agrees we need goals, but what you really need is a system, processes that lead to those goals.

Goals are about the results you want to achieve.
Systems are about the processes that lead to those results.

The purpose of setting a goal is to win the game.

The purpose of building systems is to continue to play the game.

Goals are good for setting a direction, systems are best for making progress.

Focus on the system, not the goal.

Bill Walsh: “The score takes care of itself.”

Habits are the atoms of our lives. Each one contributes to your overall improvement. At first, they are insignificant but then they start fueling each other. They are small and mighty.

If you can get 1% better each day for a year, you will be 37x better in one year. Habits are the compound interest of self-improvement. They seem to make little difference yet over the months and years they can be enormous.

Outcomes are a lagging measure of your habits.

Success is a gradual evolution, a long series of small wins and tiny breakthroughs. The only way to make progress is to start small.

Atomic habits are a routine, small, easy to do system that is the source of incredible power.

Want to learn more about Clear’s systems for creating habits to improve your life? https://jamesclear.com/atomic-habits

May your 2026 be filled with small 1% improvements that compound into enormous improvement in the months and years to come.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

Lorne Hall 12/20/25 Lorne Hall 12/20/25

Merry Christmas!

The closer and closer we get to Christmas, the more and more you hear family, friends, co-workers, and even complete strangers wishing each other “Merry Christmas!”

It has me wondering, why not “Happy Christmas!”

Have you ever wondered why?

I googled, I check AI, searching for why “Merry” and not “Happy.”

What is merry? My search found: delightful, cheerful, joyous, festive, jolly, happy, showing enjoyment, gaiety, demonstrating joy, a celebration.

What is happy? Pleased, content, fortunate, lucky, a feeling of well-being or satisfied.

Happy is about feeling good due to circumstances.

Merry is about expressing joy.

Can you be happy without being merry?

But, can you be merry without being happy?

Susan Ebbers discussed the difference between happy and merry in a post on vocabulary.com. One of her comments: “Merry brings thoughts of lightheartedness and high spirits. There is nothing negative about merry. There is no un-merry. But, there is unhappy.”

So, when you really stop and think about it, happy just comes up short when it comes to Christmas. Happy Christmas just doesn’t cut it.

Christmas…Christmas…Christmas can only be MERRY!

Merry Christmas from your friends at Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape!

Alfredo, Brady, Cameron, Glenn, Jaron, Jeff, Keith, Lorna, Marcos G, Marcos V, Marlon, Morgan, Osmen, Paula, Rigoberto, Samuel, Tom and Lorne.

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

Lorne Hall 12/14/25 Lorne Hall 12/14/25

Trees -- the pillars of our landscapes!

“Trees are the truly the pillars of our landscapes…

Think of trees as an investment for future generations…”

These are the words of Steve Dobbs as he introduces you to trees in his book Oklahoma Gardener’s Guide.

I am thankful previous generations took “investment in future generations to heart” and planted trees in Oklahoma City neighborhoods.

Trees are worth it.

Trees make a difference in the appearance of our communities.

There is not a better way to improve the appearance of an area than to plant a tree.

Trees make a difference in the way we feel.

Trees increase the value of a property.

Trees, trees... trees just make the world a better place!

*You can count on Autumn Blaze Maples to be one of the first trees to add dynamic fall color to the landscape.*

Every tree has its strength and weaknesses. Sweetgum gives us unique fall colors with a mix of yellow, purples and reds. But, it is also know for its large and obnoxious seed balls that litter the lawn.

*Chinese Pistache is a medium sized tree with an oval top that is the perfect size for a city sized lot.*

*Too often we think of trees for their spring flowers or fall color, but when planning for your next tree don’t over look summer flowering trees such as the Golden Raintree.*

So, if trees are worth it, what characteristics makes for the best tree?

There is not a perfect tree for every location. But, there is a perfect tree for each location.

Here are a few things to consider when selecting a tree:

First – the intended purpose is important.

Are you looking for shade, fall color, spring or summer flowers, screening, attract wildlife, windbreak, etc.?

Second – the size of the area.

Large trees that grow over 35’ or taller are better suited for larger lawns and taller structures. Large trees planted on traditional sized residential lots often result in the need for heavier pruning.

*Gingko is a slow growing moderate sized tree known for their distinctive leaf shape and pure yellow fall color.*

Trees remove carbon dioxide from the atmosphere and release oxygen providing for a cleaner, healthier climate. Per year a mature tree can consume 22 lbs of carbon dioxide and release enough oxygen for one person to breathe for 2 years.

Third – the shape of the tree.

Larger trees typically have a strong central leader and spreading branches that create a lot of shade. Trees with oval tops are often small to medium sized. There are also columnar shaped trees perfect for smaller areas.

Finally – consider the advantages and disadvantages of a particular tree.

Are they susceptible to disease or insects? Do they prefer wet or dry soils? It is important you select a tree that is suitable to your type of soil – sand, loam, or clay. Do they have seeds, fruit, or nuts that are obnoxious? Do they have soft or brittle wood that is easily damaged by wind or ice? Fast growing trees typically have weak wood, and some trees have narrow branching angles that are susceptible to storm damage.

*Japanese Maples with their bright spring colors are a great tree for small areas.*

Where do you go to find the best trees for your landscape?

Let me give you three sources of information:

Oklahoma State University Fact Sheet HLA-6456 Selecting Deciduous Trees for Oklahoma

The article breaks trees down into varieties that tolerate or prefer dry locations, tolerate or prefer wet locations, tolerate or prefer shade, tolerate or prefer alkaline soils, winter interest, showy bark of unusual form, interesting or showy fruit, showy flowers, fall color, planting under power lines, attract wildlife, native species, and undesirable trees. There is also a table of trees listing region of the state, growth rate, height, and comments.

*Vitex is a small tree with blueish to purple flowers in the summer.*

*Some varieties of Japanese Maples have yellow fall color.*

*Consider the Silhouette Sweetgum for areas where you want great fall color in a tight space.*

Crape Myrtles in our area are too often grown as large shrubs, but they actually are great small trees when they are not pruned to 5-6’ every year. Grown as a tree they are the longest blooming tree, have great fall color and their unique bark adds winter interest.

Oklahoma Proven!

A program by the Department of Horticulture and Landscape Architecture at Oklahoma State University. The program evaluates and recommends plants well-adapted for use across Oklahoma. Since 1999, the program has recommended trees, shrubs, perennials, and annuals.

Oklahoma Gardener’s Guide by Steve Dobbs

An oldie but goodie. A must have book for anyone interested in Oklahoma landscapes. Steve’s book has been a great resource for me for years.

Something I learned from the Oklahoma Gardener’s Guide: Oklahoma is the only state in the nation that has four ecoregions. The ecoregions of the desert southwest, great plains, continental east, and humid south meet in Oklahoma City! (Facts like this make me a real-life Progressive Insurance commercial.)

*Bald Cypress is a deciduous needle tree grows well in wet, clay soils. It is a large tree that really needs more space than most lawns provide.*

When is the best time to plant trees?

The best time to plant a tree can vary with the type of plant and the growing method. The two most common growing methods are balled and burlap (B&B) and container grown. A B&B tree is grown in the ground, dug and the root ball is wrapped in burlap. A container tree is grown from a sapling in a container often using a light weight growing mixture of mulch and soil amendments. Both are acceptable, but B&B is the most common method.

As a general rule of thumb, the best time to plant a B&B tree is during winter dormancy. B&B trees are harvested after the first hard freeze and before leaves bud out in the spring, while they are dormant. When they are dug and replanted while dormant the tree will go through less transplant shock.

The best time to plant a container grown tree is during the fall while daytime temperatures are cool, but soil temperatures are still warm.

These are the best times to plant trees, but most trees can be planted year-round in Oklahoma. Just keep in mind that trees planted during the summer growing season will need extra care until they are well established.

The best answer to the question: “When is the best time to plant a tree?” is answered by a Chinese Proverb:

The best time to plant a tree was 20 years ago. The second-best time is now.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

*Saucer Magnolia is a deciduous, small tree that brightens the early spring flowers landscape with large flowers.*

*Very thankful for the vision of previous generations who planted an allee of London Planetrees in early Oklahoma City neighborhoods.*

*The Oklahoma State tree, Redbud, is a small tree perfect for many residential lawns.*

*USDA Forest Service reports healthy, mature trees in a well-landscaped yard add an average of 10% to a property’s value.*

Lorne Hall 12/7/25 Lorne Hall 12/7/25

Winter Tree Pruning – Improve Your Landscape Investment

Tree pruning is possibly the most important winter landscape activity.

Proper tree pruning during the early years of a tree is an essential practice for any landscape.

Mature neighborhoods are full of examples of trees that were properly trimmed resulting in assets to the landscape. In the same neighborhoods, there are trees that were left untouched leaving to chance if they would add value to the landscape someday. And, there are other trees that were improperly pruned destroying their appeal.

Trees are too large of an investment to leave their growth to chance.

Another reason for tree trimming is to correct storm damage. If you live in Oklahoma, it is likely you have had or will have to deal with tree damage due to wind or ice.

Let’s first cover maintenance pruning of younger trees, then tree trimming techniques, and finally we will tackle restorative pruning concepts to continue to return your trees to their former beauty after they experience storm damage.

Things to consider when pruning young trees:

Spend a few minutes studying the shape of the tree before making any cuts. Have a plan of what needs to be accomplished before making your first cut.
Avoid pruning the central leader. If there is competition for the central leader, select the best leader and reduce the size of the competing leaders. When dual central leaders are allowed to grow, there will be two negative outcomes: the tree will not grow as tall and have more of a rounded top, and the tree will develop a weak top more suspectable to storm damage.

Young trees if not properly trimmed will add little value to the landscape as they mature.

Prune branches around the perimeter that extend beyond the desired shape. If it is a species with a central leader, prune the tree to a gentle pyramid shape. If it is an oval topped tree, prune any branches that are out of proportion. If the tree is in a location where southern winds are impacting the shape, reduce the north side of the tree.
Gradually remove lower branches over the years. As a tree begins to reach maturity, it is best to be able to walk under the branches with your arm fully extended without touching branches.
Remove branches that are too close together on the trunk. My rule of thumb is for there to be a minimum of one to two hand widths between all branches.
Remove vigorous vertical branches. Known as waterspouts, these branches grow quickly and are weak wooded. If not removed, they are the first to go during wind and ice storms.
Remove downward growing branches.
Remove any branches that are larger than the trunk. If not, weak branching will be the outcome.
Remove crossing or rubbing branches.
Remove branches that are growing into the center of the tree.
Never remove more than 1/3 of the branching system in a single year. If major pruning is needed to correct a tree, do it over a few years.

A folding hand saw is a great tool for tree pruning.

A good tree cut is located at the branch collar, smooth and straight.

Tree trimming techniques:

When pruning a branch back to the trunk, prune close to the branch collar.
When removing branches over 2” in width use a three-cut method. Make the first cut 18” above the collar on the underneath side of the limb. Make the second cut on the top side of the first cut. Then remove the remaining stub at the branch collar.
When branch pruning (vs not removing the branch completely at the trunk) make your cut ¼” above a bud. Select a bud facing the direction you want the branch to grow and make the cut on a diagonal.
Should you use tree wound dressing? There is good research for both using dressing on cuts and for not using a wound dressing. Our preference is to not use tree wound dressing when performing maintenance and corrective pruning during dormancy but use dressing when pruning when there is heavy sap movement.

Most routine tree pruning and minor restorative pruning can be accomplished with these 4 tools.

Lower branches on this Chinese Pistache will be pruned this winter. Goal is to be able to walk around under mature trees and not be able to touch any branches with an outstretched hand.

Good tree pruning removes lower branches in proportion to the size of the tree to avoid lollipop shaped trees.

After Lower branches were removed. Shape was improved by removing overgrown perimeter branching. — After
Lower branches were removed. Shape was improved by removing overgrown perimeter branching.

Restorative Tree Pruning After Storm Damage:

Walk around the tree from a distance looking for broken branches and damage to the canopy. If the canopy of the tree is out of balance, make a plan to thin the tree on the heavy side.
Before making any cuts, determine the direction you want the branch to grow. If you need to fill in the middle of the tree, select growth toward the center of the tree. If you need to develop outward growth, select a branch growing outward.

*Our Chinese Pistache one year after heavy ice storm damage destroyed the oval canopy. Restoration is a multi-year process when a tree is heavily damaged.*

At the point of most restorative cuts, it is best if only one or two branches remain. If selecting more than one, they need to be at least one hand width apart.
When trees lose a large portion of their canopy in a storm, the disproportionate amount of root system to canopy will most likely result in an abundance of new branch growth the following year. Plan on thinning and removing excessive branching, crossing branches, and branches growing into the interior of the canopy the following year.

When selecting two branches to remain it is best if they are at least one hand width apart.

With less canopy to support our Chinese Pistache has produced a lot of new branches this year that need to be thinned out.

After three years of corrective pruning, our Chinese Pistache has returned to its stately form.

*Our Chinese Pistache with a wonderful oval canopy before the ice storm in October of 2020.*

If the central leader was damaged in the past and cuts were made to establish a new central leader, notice how the new central leader is developing. Remember, it is important to not allow a cluster of new branches to compete for the central leader. The outcome will not be good in future years in both the health and the appearance of the tree.

After year one of restorative pruning our Chinese Pistache has started to regain its oval canopy.

If clusters of new branches are allowed to remain these areas will be weak and susceptible to future ice and wind damage.

Follow tree trimming techniques listed above.
Restoring a heavily storm damaged tree is a commitment to a 2-to-3-year process of evaluating and shaping. If your trees were damaged in the ice storm three years ago, don’t miss the opportunity to continue restorative pruning this winter.

Experience and knowledge are important for successful tree pruning.

If you need more information OSU’s Extension Service Fact Sheet HLA-6409, http://factsheets.okstate.edu/documents/hla-6409-pruning-ornamental-trees-shrubs-and-vines-2/

Or, give us a call. We can help by providing an evaluation of your tree’s health and make a plan for improvement.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart

(405)367-3873

Lorne Hall 11/30/25 Lorne Hall 11/30/25

December Lawn & Landscape Tips

As our focus turns from Thanksgiving to Christmas, it is easy to let the busyness of the holiday season distract you from your lawn and landscape activities.

Hey, it’s December, can’t I put my lawn and landscape tools away for the winter?

Not so fast! The best lawns and landscapes are always receiving some attention…attention so they not only look their best right all the time, but also their best this coming spring.

Lawn Mowing

Yes, warm season lawn (bermuda and zoysia) mowing has come to an end for the season. But if you have a cool season lawn (fescue and rye), your lawn still needs maintenance. Depending on weather conditions (primarily nighttime temperatures), you can expect cool season lawns to put on some growth well into December. So, don’t put your mower away just yet. Maintain fescue lawns at approximately 3” through the fall and winter.

*Mulch mowing is a great way to manage leaves as long as you do it frequently.*

With more and more nights with temperatures in the 20s fescue lawns are slowing down. But, don’t put your mower away too soon. Most Decembers, an occasional mowing is needed to keep them looking their best.

Leaf Removal

Keeping leaves removed is recommend for all lawns, but critical if you have a cool season lawn. If you remove leaves regularly you will find mulch mowing them back into the turf is an effective way to handle clean-up. If you allow leaves to collect in the corners of a fescue lawn over the winter, those areas will be thin to completely bare next spring.

Remember - fescue lawns need light even in the winter.

Fescue will completely die out if you allow them to pile up this winter. — *Fescue will completely die out if you allow leaves to pile up this winter.*

*Fescue lawns need light. Keep leaves removed regularly.*

*Monitor rainfall and anytime we receive a 1/2" rain or more. turn your irrigation off for a week.*

*A best practice is to water as needed throughout the winter. Anytime we go a week without some moisture, pick a nice day and water your lawn and landscape.*

*The red berries of Nandina add interest to the winter landscape.*

Mulch

Another great landscape practice for improving survivability of your landscape plantings is a fresh layer of mulch. A 2-3” layer of mulch will provide insulation for your plant roots, retain moisture, and moderate soil temperatures. We recommend adding a layer of fresh cedar, pine, cypress, or pecan mulch.

Irrigation

Through the winter we recommend watering once per week anytime we go a week without ½” of rainfall.

If you have a rain/freeze sensor on your irrigation system and your system is equipped with freeze protection on the backflow, we recommend setting your system to run one time per week through the winter. If the temperature is below 35, the sensor will not allow the system to run and if there has been a recent rain, the system will remain off. If you do not have a rain/freeze sensor, pick a nice day once per week and run your system through a manual cycle.

Soil moisture is a critical ingredient for your landscape’s winter survival.

How can you know the soil moisture? www.mesonet.org is Oklahoma’s industry leading website for weather and climate information. The 1-day Average 2” Fractional Water Index is a good guide to watering decisions.

Most importantly, if your soil is dry, and the forecast has days below freezing, it is recommended you water thoroughly before the cold weather arrives.

Winter damage to our lawn and landscape occurs when the top 3” of soil is dry and temperatures are below freezing.

*With the later than normal fall, many trees such as this Gingko is continuing to add bright colors to the early December landscape.*

*Hollies naturally add a festive touch to the holidays every December.*

*Winter is the best time to for corrective tree pruning. As leaves drop, inspect your tree canopies and make a plan to prune this winter.*

Tree Trim

During winter dormancy, tree trimming is a great practice. As leaves fall and tree canopies are more visible, spend a few minutes analyzing the structure of your trees and start making plans for the next step of corrective pruning. We will cover tree pruning techniques in detail in the next few weeks.

*With so many varieties of Japanese Maples, they add color throughout the fall and into December.*

Spring Bulbs

Mid-November through mid-December is the perfect time to plant spring flowering bulbs (daffodils, hyacinths, tulips). Spring bulbs require extended cold temperatures to produce. If you procrastinate you run the chance of not having a good color show next spring.

*For a good spring color show, bulbs need to be planted in the next couple of weeks.*

*Oak trees are one of the last trees to change color and then loose their leaves. Most falls you can count on them to add color to the landscape well into December.*

Weed Control

If you have not applied the second fall/winter pre-emergent and broadleaf weed control to your lawn yet, it is not too late to do so. The goal with this application is to extend the prevention of weeds until the spring pre-emergent is applied.

Lawns that did not receive two fall pre-emergent applications are starting to see poa annua, the most prolific winter annual weed, start to germinate in thin turf areas. Fall pre-emergent applications are as equally important as spring pre-emergent applications.

Fertilizing Trees and Shrubs

If you have not fertilized your trees and shrubs this fall with a good balanced fertilizer there is still time to do so. Because central Oklahoma soil temperatures typically remain in the 40s through the winter, plant roots remain active. Fall fertilizer applications are important because nitrogen leaches from the soil and needs to be replaced. Our experience has found that a late fertilizer application to feed the roots will aid the health and beauty of your plants next spring.

Tree Planting

Tree farms are harvesting freshly dug trees now. Trees that are dug and replanted during dormancy have the best chance of survival. If you are thinking about adding trees to your landscape anytime in the next year, don’t wait till spring or summer, plant this winter.

Soil Test

If your lawn, shrubs, or trees often look a little off color and lack vigor, now would be a great time to check your soil health. Key soil measurements that determine soil health include pH, total exchange capacity, organic matter and nutrients.

Unhealthy Soil = Sick Lawn & Landscape

Soil Test Results + Recommendations = Healthy Lawn & Landscape

When key soil measurements are out of balance, your lawn and landscape will not respond correctly to fertilizer and weed control applications. With soil test results, Hall | Stewart will formulate a custom plan to return your lawn to a healthy condition.

*The late fall pre-emergent application is timed to keep your lawn clean through the winter.*

*Nandina’s getting into the holiday spirit.*

*Even though fescue lawn growth has slowed, as a cool season grass, it typically keep great color through December.*

*Trees that are dug and replanted during dormancy have the best chance of survival.*

Foot Traffic

Avoid walking on frozen grass. If is particularly damaging to fescue. Turf areas with winter foot traffic are slow to recover in the spring.

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape has enjoyed being a part of your lawn and landscape this year.

Anytime you need assistance with a lawn or landscape issue, we would love the opportunity to help.

Our goal, as always, is to help you have your best lawn and landscape!

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

ELISE TAYLOR 11/23/25 ELISE TAYLOR 11/23/25

Happy Thanksgiving

Thanksgiving…still my favorite holiday.

A time to slow our pace.

A time to spend with friends and family.

A time to reflect on what we are thankful for.

As Thanksgiving approaches this year, my thoughts have turned toward what brings happiness. It seems we are always in pursuit of happiness.

Does our pursuit of happiness often look more like the pursuit of stuff? Of material possessions? Of experiences?

We have all found ourselves in that place. The place where we convince ourselves that if we just have that new house, that new car, the latest fashion, the perfect vacation, we will be happier.

This week, take a minute to reflect on this year. What did you pursue thinking that if you just had it, you would be happier?

Let me guess, as soon as you acquired the thing you thought would make you happier – you started looking for the next thing that will make you even happier.

It is a never-ending game when we focus on things or experiences to make us happier. It doesn’t matter if you have a lot of resources or just enough, you can never get enough stuff or take enough perfect vacations to make yourself happy forever. You will never win the buying happiness game.

My challenge to you this Thanksgiving…focus this week on all the ways you are blessed. Then, develop the habit of showing thankfulness and gratitude every day. For long-lasting happiness is not found in acquiring things, but rather in the daily practice of gratitude.

Your friends at Hall | Stewart are grateful for every opportunity we have to help you have your best lawn and landscape.

Alfredo, Brady, Cameron, Glenn, Jaron, Jeff, Keith, Lorna, Marcos G, Marcos V, Marlon, Morgan, Osmen, Paula, Rigoberto, Tom and Lorne.

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

So, then, what will bring you happiness?

Maybe, just maybe, being thankful, grateful is actually where happiness is found.

Thankfulness is acknowledging the goodness in your life.

Gratitude moves you away from thinking about what you lack and toward the realization of how blessed you are.

Gratitude gives you an appreciation of what you have instead of always reaching for something new in the hopes that it will make you happier.

Lorne Hall 11/9/25 Lorne Hall 11/9/25

Oh, the Colors of Fall!

What a spectacular week!

It is officially time to get outdoors and enjoy the fall show!

Plan a color walk through your favorite neighborhood or park, take a leisurely bike ride through a neighborhood full of mature trees, or take an afternoon drive around the metro area.

*Plan a walk through a neighborhood with mature trees full of fall color this week.*

*Yellow leafed Japanese Maples add bright pots of yellow to the fall landscape.*

Fall color depends upon a few key elements:

Abundant moisture during the growing season.

The best fall color follows a summer of consistent moisture. When we have a below normal, dry late summer or dry early fall, you can expect to see a slightly less dynamic fall color.

2. Average to late freeze.

The average first freeze in central Oklahoma occurs during the first few days of November. Some areas of the metro experienced an early light freeze last week, but for most of the area, we have not had a freeze yet this year. When it comes to the first fall freeze, the best fall color occurs when the first freeze comes late, and it is a light freeze.

3. Cool fall nights with plenty of sunshine.

The more average cool fall nights, nights above freezing, the better the fall color. Also, the more sunny days versus cloudy days, the more dynamic the colors will be.

4. Low winds.

Once the leaves make the change to brilliant yellows, oranges and reds, the last thing we want is a gusty day stripping the trees. Once leaves start to turn, low to no wind days will extend the color.

*Just a reminder to keep the leaves cleaned up often. Fescue needs light!*

*I always look forward to seeing this maple in Mesta Park every fall.*

*Nandina is an old time plant that showers us with large berry clusters followed by bright orange, red leaves as the fall progresses.*

Based on these four elements - the dryness in August extending through October, windy days and the possibility of a hard freeze this weekend, early fall color may fade quickly. Hopefully, the trees that add color later into the fall will still put on a good show. Last year, our fall color show went into December.

Typically, peak fall color for central Oklahoma is the first two weeks of November.

What is your favorite fall tree or shrub?

What is mine? Any and all! Every day I have a new favorite.

Here are a few that I always look forward to seeing in the fall landscape:

*Boston Ivy is a deciduous vine that turns bright red in the fall.*

Autumn Blaze Maple

One of the first trees to start the show with bright orange to red foliage. I’m sure you have noticed them. Often the heat of late summer will leave Maples with tattered leaves and less fall color. This year, the late August rainfall kept Maple leaves from appearing as tattered. Maples do best when they have protection from late evening, radiant heat. This explains why you will find some of the brightest reds on maples planted amongst other large trees.

*Chinese Pistache is a dependable medium sized tree that is tolerate of a wide range of planting locations.*

Chinese Pistache

A round top, medium sized tree, with incredible colors of yellow, orange, and red in the fall. The best Chinese Pistache are so electric you would think they are plugged in. The only downside to a Chinese Pistache is inconsistency. Not everyone will have dynamic color. We have one in our front lawn, the color is good, but not as brilliant as others.

Bald Cypress

Known for being the only deciduous needle tree, bald cypress has a brilliant rusty red color in the fall. It is a large tree, too large for the typical city sized yard, but if you have a large area, it will not disappoint in the fall. We have one planted near the water, and we can count on it consistently putting on a good fall show. There is something about how the late evening sun hits the color changing foliage in the fall that causes me to pause for a minute and stare every evening.

Lacebark Elm

A large tree with mottled bark that is not as disease and pest prone as the traditional elms. You can expect bright yellow leaves for fall. A favorite variety is the Allee with its vase shape.

*October Glory Maple is similar to the Autumn Blaze in growth and color but puts on a color show a couple weeks after the Autumn Blaze*

*October Glory Maple in early December last year.*

October Glory Maple

Another large Maple like the Autumn Blaze in growth and fall color. One difference is the October Glory’s peak color usually comes a couple of weeks later than the Autumn Blaze. While Autumn Blaze is one of the first trees to turn red in the fall, October Glory is one of the last. Maybe every landscape should have one of each.

Shantung Maple

A smaller, 20-25’ Maple with yellow to orange to red color. This tree is ideal for planting near power lines, in smaller lawns, or as an accent tree in a larger landscape.

*I enjoy the view of our neighbor’s maple trees every fall and I’m so thankful they added them to their landscape!*

*The reddish browns of Shumard Oak rarely disappoint.*

Shumard Oak

There are so many great oaks, but this is my favorite. A large, 50-75’ tree with good red fall color. One advantage to the Shumard Oak is it’s more tolerant of our alkaline soils.

Redbud

A smaller tree, famous for being one of the first to flower in the spring but often overlooked for its bright yellow fall color. The native Eastern Redbud has better fall color than the improved Oklahoma Redbud but can disappoint if the summer has left the leaves too tattered.

Ginkgo

An underused, 40-60’ tree that does very well in street plantings. The Ginkgo has a distinct, fan shaped, irregularly notched leaf that could lay claim to the best yellow fall color.

*Silhouette Sweetgum are a great tree for adding bright fall color to small spaces.*

Sweet Gum

If it weren’t for the spiny, 1-1.5” seed balls that litter a lawn, this tree would be on every landscape enthusiast’s wish list. When you see a sweetgum in the fall, it immediately gets your attention because of the multicolored leaves. The star-shaped leaves turn shades of yellow, orange, red, and purple often persisting late into the fall. The tree performs well in both wet and dry soils and reaches 50-60’. The Slender Silhouette variety is a columnar shaped Sweetgum that reaches 40-50’ but is only 4’ wide. It is great for tight spaces, small gardens, and any place you want to create a striking vertical accent. Just like the full-sized tree, it is common for there to be several rich colors on the same tree.

Ash

Marshall’s Seedless Ash is a proven variety with dark green foliage and bright yellow fall color. Ash is known for its tolerance of hot, dry winds and both wet and dry soils, making them well suited for our climate.

Crape Myrtles

Our longest blooming landscape plant is too often overlooked for the orange to red fall colors it brings to the landscape. Incorrectly, Crape Myrtle are pruned into large shrubs, and we rarely get to experience their splendor in the fall as a tree. When allowed to grow naturally, you find their addition to the fall landscape stunning.

*A Dogwood growing in a native area in eastern Oklahoma.*

Dogwoods

A rarely planted tree in central Oklahoma that makes a great understory tree in shady areas with dark red fall color. If you have mature trees in your landscape, consider adding a dogwood as an accent. The Tulsa area is blessed with an abundance of fall color from dogwoods.

*Burning Bush looks great on groupings or as a single specimen.*

Euonymus Burning Bush

A medium to large shrub with bright red fall color. Like the Chinese Pistache, they can be inconsistent. Also known as Winged Euonymus. When it is over pruned, it doesn’t reach its full potential. When it is left to grow to its natural shape and height, and it has received sufficient moisture through the summer, the fall color is intense and more consistent than any other plant. It is a great planted as a single specimen, in a grouping or as a natural hedge. For smaller landscapes, plant the ‘Compactus’ variety.

Oakleaf Hydrangea

One of the most underutilized, showy plants available. It is known for magnificent white flowers in the early summer, but it is often overlooked for the rich burgundy color of the large, lobed leaves in the fall. It prefers moist, rich, well-drained soil and best planted in shade to partial shade.

*Ornamental grasses can also add brilliant colors to the fall landscape. One of my favorites is Pink Muhly.*

Pink Muhly Grass

An upright, slightly arching ornamental grass that produces a soft, airy pink to purple bloom in late September to early November. Great planted as a single specimen or as a mass planting.

Autumn Sage

A showy perennial that adds prolific hot pink color to the fall landscape. Great for hot, sunny locations.

Sumac

Used as a large shrub or a specimen small tree with great tolerance for dry, poor soils. Sumac has a bright red fall color. It is best known for the bright red color it adds to the native landscape, but it deserves to be planted in more landscapes as an understory.

Did you notice the list of great fall colors include more than trees?

Don’t overlook all the color shrubs, vines and perennials that can add to your fall landscape.

Get outside!

Maybe you will find a tree or shrub you need to add to your landscape!

We would love to see pictures of your favorite fall colors!

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

Lorne Hall 9/7/25 Lorne Hall 9/7/25

The 4 Most Common Ways to Fail at Establishing Fescue

This week, something happened to me that in nearly 40 years of working in the lawn and landscape industry in Central Oklahoma, has never happened:

It’s the first week of September and twice I was asked: “Is it too late to overseed fescue?”

Usually, it is the exact opposite – the first week of September & Oklahomans are worried it’s too early.

The weather hasn’t been typical. Summer’s usual fight to hold on into September has been replaced with the pleasant feeling of the early days of fall.

We are just at the start of the perfect window for establishing fescue, September through October.

As we discussed on August 17th in Bermuda vs Fescue The Choice is Yours, there are two approaches to using fescue in your lawn: Fescue in shady areas only or a full fescue lawn.

After evaluating your lawn, if you decided to establish fescue for the first time or if you decided you should add more fescue to your already fescue areas, we don’t want you to fail.

What are the four most common ways to fail at establishing fescue?

Small, shady areas in your lawn where there is low air movement and shade are prime candidates for annual fall seeding with fescue.

Fescue the last week of September last fall after overseeding in early September.

Failure to Seed in the Fall

Because fescue is a cool season grass, there are two times per year you can plant fescue seed: Fall (September through October) and Spring (March and April).

But, if you wait until spring to seed fescue, you are seeding at the second-best time and there is an enormous chasm between the establishment of fescue now (the best time) and next spring (the second-best time).

Spring seeded fescue will come up great, but it rarely establishes enough root system to make it through the summer heat (fescue’s off season). As a younger, weaker plant, spring seeded fescue is also more susceptible to brown patch disease.

With abundant moisture during June and early July when nighttime temperatures were warm, brown patch was prevalent in our climate. The most susceptible fescue lawns were the ones with spring seeded fescue.

Fall seeded fescue has all fall, winter, and spring to establish a root system before enduring the heat of July and August.

Don’t fail at establishing fescue – seed now, not next spring.

Failure #1 – Seeding fescue in the spring.

Fall seeded fescue is better prepared to withstand the heat of July and August.

Fescue is the best turf grass for areas of your lawn that receive dappled sun. Bermuda needs at least 6 hours per day of direct sun light.

Failure to Create Good Seed to Soil Contact

Good seed to soil contact is important. If you sow seed over the existing soil without some preparation, the chance of a successful seeding is greatly reduced. Research shows the percentage of germination decreases dramatically when seed is just sewn on top of the ground.

You will have success if you start by cutting the existing turf short to remove excess grass. Then loosen the soil to create good seed to soil contact.

Aeration is the best method to loosen the soil and gain good seed to soil contact. Aerating also gives you the extra benefit of improving the soil structure, increasing water absorption, and developing deeper roots.

Give more attention to bare areas and the edges. Rough up the areas with a rake. Rototilling isn’t necessary but breaking the surface of the soil in bare areas is needed.

Heavy aeration is one of the best ways to create good seed to soil contact when seeding. You also get the added benefit of improved soil conditions from aeration.

In areas that are completely bare, spread a thin layer of peat moss over the surface after seeding to increase the seed to soil contact.

If overseeding an existing fescue area with a good stand of grass, spread seed at a rate of 5-8 pounds per 1,000 square feet.
If establishing a new fescue lawn, spread seed at a rate of 10-12 pounds per 1,000 square feet.

Failure #2 – Just spreading the seed over the top of the ground.

This bermuda lawn is being cut short in preparation of overseeding it with fescue for the first time.

Cutting it to 2” will improve the seed to soil contact and increase the success of the first time overseed.

Failure to Buy a Good Fescue Blend

Fescue was first introduced in the US from Europe in the 1800s as pasture grass. Kentucky-31 Tall Fescue was developed in the 1940s as an improved pasture grass and introduced to the home turf market in the 1960s by Pennington Seed.

All seed grown in Oregon is certified. Buy it when possible.

Look for a fescue blend with at least 3 varieties. Blends contain the best varieties and give you more protection against disease and are more heat and drought tolerant.

What is the point of the seed history lesson?

If you are buying Kentucky-31 Tall Fescue, you are buying an 80-year-old product when there are over 300 improved fescue varieties that offer darker green color, narrower blades, and improved tolerance to heat, cold, drought and disease. Kentucky-31 is marginally acceptable as a lawn grass that tends to become thin and clumpy.

Improved fescue varieties  are very heat and drought tolerant and can successfully be grown in full sun. — Improved fescue varieties are very heat and drought tolerant and can successfully be grown in full sun.

No matter the name on the bag of the seed, any improved variety will outperform Kentucky-31.

We believe using a blend is best when seeding fescue. Blends are a combination of two or more varieties within the same species, such as two or more fescues in one mix. Blends are a combination of the best species, tested over time, for the best shade tolerance and disease resistance. The number one problem with fescue is brown patch disease. The best blends use fescue varieties that show strong resistance to brown patch. Also, some blends will contain bluegrass and, or rye for even more vibrant spring color.

Failure #3 – Buying cheap seed. You will get what you are pay for… a low-quality turf for years to come.

Failure to Keep the Area Tacky Moist Until Seed Germinates

The first three are very important, but the 4th one is critical for success.

Nothing will hand you a losing hand quicker than not keeping the seed moist. You can get the first three correct and have complete failure if the seeded area is not kept moist until new grass is visible in the entire area.

Even water distribution is important in keeping the seed tacky moist until it comes up. Check your system. Look for areas where there isn’t complete head to head coverage. The result will be poor germinate around the sprinkler head.

This picture 14 days after seeding demonstrates how critical moisture is to seed germination. The seed in the area where the irrigation does not reach has not germinated at all while the moist areas are nearly fully germinated.

The worst thing you can do is water the seeded area, allow it to dry completely, water again, allow it to dry completely, repeat, repeat, repeat… After a few times of drying out completely, the seed will no longer be viable.

For the best success, set your irrigation to run 3 short cycles per day. Set spray type zones to run 3-5 minutes each time. Set rotor type zones to run 7-10 minutes each time. If possible, set the system to run before dawn (4:00 AM), late morning (10:00 AM), and mid-afternoon (4:00 PM).

You don’t have to have an irrigation system to establish fescue. You only need to be diligent at watering every morning and every evening.

Failure #4 – Not keeping the seed tacky moist until it germinates.

Fescue can be grown successfully in Oklahoma. There are examples of great fescue lawns in every neighborhood, and there will be more and more as our environment becomes more and more shady.

Who should overseed this fall?

If you have areas of your lawn where the bermuda has thinned because of shade, you should seed this fall. Bermuda needs at least 6 hours of direct sunlight for the best performance. Less than 6 hours of direct sunlight and bermuda starts to thin.
If you have fescue areas that have become thin because of brown patch, drought, or insect damage, you should seed this fall.
If you just want to keep your fescue thick and healthy, you should seed this fall. Fescue doesn’t spread like bermuda with runners across the top of the soil. Fescue spreads through tillering through the soil and putting up new vertical shoots. Fescue spread is slow and often rare in the transition zone in which we live. To keep a fescue lawn at its best, adding more seed is common.
If you want to have a green lawn longer into the fall and earlier in the spring, you should seed this fall. Fescue is a cool season grass and stays green and active into early December and recovers from the winter in early March. With a fescue lawn, it is common to have a green lawn 10 out of 12 months.

Myth: It is difficult to grow fescue. But, really it isn’t. Growing fescue does require a different approach to your lawn, but it isn’t difficult when you avoid some of the most common mistakes in establishing fescue.

Successful fescue lawns are the result of best seeding practices, best cool season turf maintenance practices, and persistence. But, more importantly, they are a result of different thinking.

Bonus Reason Why Fescue Seeding Fails

Applying a fall pre-emergent before seeding in the area. The same pre-emergent herbicide that prevents weeds will prevent fescue from germinating. Wait until the new fescue turf has been mowed 2-3 times before putting a pre-emergent on the lawn.

Special Note: DO NOT use pre-emergent herbicides now in areas that are going to be seeded this fall.

If you need assistance in establishing a fescue lawn or have questions about fescue, give us a call – (405) 367-3873.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

Lorne Hall 8/10/25 Lorne Hall 8/10/25

Time For A Summer Landscape Color Check

It’s hot! As, it should be. The last week of July and the first week of August are traditionally the hottest two weeks of the year in central Oklahoma. But, there is some good news…from here on out we should see daytime temperatures gradually decline!

So, how is your landscape doing in the heat?

Too often we get excited about a plant that looks great in April and May only to have it disappoint us when the heat is on in July and August.

Great landscapes should include plants that add color and interest in every season, even when temperatures are pushing triple digits.

A good activity for August is to create a summer landscape journal. Grab a few minutes and take pictures of your landscape while it is hot. Jot down a few notes about plants that are doing well and the ones that are struggling.

Next spring you will be glad to have the information when you are planning your summer landscape.

Here are a few things we have found to be tried and true when it comes to landscape plants that do well in the heat of July and August:

*The limes and red speckled leaves of Coleus make a nice accent to the yellow flower of Marigolds.*

Joseph Coat is a great compliment for the reds of Bronze-Leaf Begonias.

Caladiums behind Impatiens is the perfect combination for shady areas of your landscape.

Annual Summer Seasonal Color

Coleus – Planted for the colorful foliage, it is available in both shade and sun varieties and many colors. Colors range from limy yellow to red with many that have speckled leaves of yellow, green, and red.

Joseph Coat – This low growing, bright yellow-green annual is a great border in full to partial sun areas. It is also available in dark red but is not near as dramatic as the brightness of the lighter variety.

Lantana – You can’t beat lantana in the heat in full sun. Some of the more common varieties are New Gold, Dallas Red, and Confetti. Known for having a bushy growth habit, but there are varieties that are more compact and mounding.

*Lantana, one of the best lovers of summer heat, comes in so many colors that there has to be one perfect for your summer landscape.*

The dark reds and lime-red of these Coleus varieties make a great combination.

Penta – Another annual plant that thrives in full sun. Bright clusters of star-shaped flowers in red, pink, and white look great planted behind Joseph Coat.

Periwinkle – An old traditional annual plant that just keeps performing. Periwinkle thrives in full sun. White with red center is most common, but it is also available in vibrant pinks, reds, and violets. A good look I have noticed the past two summers is to plant a mixture of periwinkles in varying shades of pinks and reds.

Strawberry Periwinkle, red Penta, Lemon Zest Lantana, Stain Glass Coleus in front of Black-eyed Susan make for a showy mid-summer landscape.

*A great combination for shady areas in the heat of summer is Caladiums and Impatiens.*

Periwinkle is a summer loving annual that brightens landscapes with vibrant pinks, reds and whites.

Strawberry Periwinkle with a compliment of Black-Eye Susan

Penta will continue to bloom in full sun to partial shade through the hottest days of summer.

The lime color of Joseph Coat is a great compliment to the rosy pink of Strawberry Periwinkle

Lantana, Angelonia, Penta, and Sunpatiens.

Sunpatiens – All the color burst you would expect from impatiens, but they love sun and heat. They come in a wide range of colors. One word of caution: When planted in areas of hot late afternoon sun they do need plenty of moisture to make it through July and August.

Angelonia – It is available in whites, pinks, purples, and blues and very often you will find it mixed. Plant in full to partial sun.

Sunpatiens and Lantana adding color in the summer sun.

*Sunpatiens have become a staple for a splash of color in my summer landscape.*

Orange Sunpatiens planted with Joseph Coat and yellow Marigolds.

Caladiums – The large colorful leaves make a great show in full or dappled shade. You will find them in red, white, and pink. Caladiums are great at adding a burst of color to shady areas of the landscape.

Impatiens – Another old favorite that is hard to beat in the full shade areas of your landscape. It is available in many colors.

*Caladiums, a shade loving summer annual, thrives during the summer.*

*Lantana, Penta, Angelonia and Sunpatiens adding bright color in the heat of August.*

*Sunpatiens, Joseph Coat, Angelonia, Penta, and Coleus brighten even the hottest of summer days.*

Perennials

Black-eyed Susan – Grows 2-3’ tall with dark green foliage and vibrant golden-yellow daisy type flowers with a dark brown center. Blooming starts in late June and continues into August. Their show in the summer heat is second to no other perennial.

Coneflower – A native prairie plant that puts on a great show through the summer. Each plant will produce several clusters of 2-4” blooms. They are available in several colors, but the purple varieties are my favorite.

Coneflower add color to the landscape through the hottest times of the summer.

Using the perennial Black-eyed Susan in your landscape will add a splash of yellow through July and into August.

Black-eyed Susans add bold brilliant flowers in mid-summer to our landscapes.

Coneflower is a perennial that blooms in midsummer.

*Crape Myrtle, the longest summer blooming plant become more brilliant as the summer gets hotter.*

*Maybe the hardiest Hydrangea, Limelight, blooms during the heat of midsummer and they do well in full sun. These are planted around a parking lot on the west side of a building.*

*The large flowers of Hardy Hibiscus are an eye catcher throughout the summer.*

*Bobo Hydrangea is a dwarf hydrangea that is known for having stronger stems so the blooms don’t flop over as much as typical panicle hydrangea.*

Shrubs

Crape Myrtle – I have a tendency to mention them often, but as our longest blooming summer shrub and/or tree they are a must have for your landscape. Varieties come in dwarf (2-4’), semi-dwarf (up to 8’), and standard (up to 25’). Colors range from white, pink, purple and red. It seems that the hotter the summer, the more brilliantly they bloom.

Limelight Hydrangea – A very hardy hydrangea with unique mid-summer white blooms and a slight hint of green. They look great planted in mass, as a hedge or as a single specimen. Also, they do well planted in full sun.

Hardy Hibiscus – A spectacular summer bloomer that will quickly make a dramatic impact to any landscape. Look for newer varieties as they have larger flowers. For most flowers, they need full sun. They are a great addition in a perennial garden or in front of an evergreen hedge.

*We think of Crape Myrtles as full sun plants, but when planted in dappled sun they add splashes of bright color to shady areas.*

*Bobo Hydrangeas and Black-eyed Susan both thrive in the summer heat.*

Vines

Trumpet Vine – A favorite is the ‘Madame Galen’ variety. Trumpet shaped salmon-red flowers throughout the summer for an extra-long blooming season. Great for covering up fences and climbing arbors.

*Madame Galen Trumpet Vine have an extra long summer blooming season.*

These are just a few that we have found consistently do well through the hottest summer heat. The fun thing is there are many, many more.

Visit public gardens during the hottest times of the summer to see what is doing great in their landscapes for fresh ideas. The Myriad Gardens, Will Rogers Horticulture Gardens, and OSU’s Botanical Garden are just a few in the area. A favorite of mine is to make an annual visit to the Dallas Arboretum and Botanical Garden to see what is doing well in the heat of north Texas.
Don’t be shy. Stop at that house with the best summer color in your neighborhood and ask what they are growing!
Experiment. Try something new and different. Who knows, maybe you will stumble onto something that is just perfect for your landscape.
Share what is doing the best in your landscape. We want to know what is putting on a show this summer in your landscape. And, I’m sure everyone else wants to know too.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape LLC

(405)367-3873

Lorne Hall 7/27/25 Lorne Hall 7/27/25

Fescue’s Summer Off Season

Question: What is one of the best things about living in Oklahoma?

Did anyone say: Living in the transition zone?

I’m guessing that was no one’s answer.

What is the transition zone? It is the area across the middle of the US between where warm season turf grows in the south and cool season grasses grow in the north.

The Transition Zone is the area of the country you can choose to grow either warm season or cool season grasses.

Bermuda is the common warm season turfgrass in our region. The advantage bermuda has is it loves the summer heat and as long as it receives moisture, it will be at its best in July and August.

Fescue is the cool season option. Fescue tolerates more shade and stays green nearly year-round. You can’t beat the deep rich color in the spring and fall. Fescue stays green well into December, often keeps some color through the winter, and as soon as the winter starts to break in early March, fescue bursts back to life.

Both have their off seasons.

Bermuda’s off season starts in November and continues until April. During this time, it goes fully dormant and turns straw-brown for months.

When is fescue’s off season?

Yes, fescue loses its green color in the winter and stops growing. So, yes, fescue has an off season in the winter, but much shorter than bermuda. Fescue goes through another slump in July through August when temperatures above 95 degrees are common. During fescue’s summer off season, growth slows and the color isn’t as intense. But, when a fescue lawn is healthy and growing under the best conditions, the summer off season is barely noticeable.

In April, customers with bermuda lawns often ask why their lawn isn’t as green as the fescue lawns on their block.

And, right now with 10 consecutive 90+ degree days, customers with fescue lawns are asking questions about why their fescue isn’t looking as good as it did in June.

July through August is fescue’s second off season while bermuda is at peak season!

Bermuda will always have more color than fescue in July and August, but March through June and again October into December, fescue will always win the color battle.

*Fescue when watered and mowed properly in full sun in the heat of the summer.*

How do you keep a fescue lawn looking its best in the summer heat?

Let’s run through a list of best and worst practices for fescue during its summer off season.

Best practices for keeping fescue looking good during July and August:

Mow fescue at 3” – 3 ½”. The more leaf space the better color and the more drought tolerant the lawn will be.
Water deep. Water infrequent. Water in the early morning. Fescue lawns that are receiving 1 ½” of moisture per week, on an every other day schedule, only in the morning, look the best in the heat of summer.
Fescue lawns that receive at least some dappled sunlight and are in areas of good air circulation look the best during the summer heat.
Fescue lawns that are aerated in the fall have stronger root systems and can better withstand hot, dry days.

*A properly watered and mowed fescue lawn last year during the first week of August.*

Worst practices for fescue during the summer heat:

Don’t over water. Short, frequent watering does far more harm than good. It is a myth that fescue needs watered daily during the heat of July and August. When temperatures are hot and fescue stays wet for more than 6 hours at a time, brown patch will damage the turf. When brown patch starts spreading in a fescue lawn, it looks like the lawn needs more water. The natural response is to water more which makes the problem worse. It is common when making site visits where customers are concerned about their fescue to discover brown patch is the problem. Often the homeowner has increased watering to two times per day, morning and evening, every day trying to keep the fescue alive, all the while making it worse.

*Fescue with a mild case of brown patch.*

Brown Patch is a result of fescue staying too wet when temperatures are warm. This year has been a perfect season for brown patch to flourish. Now that we have received two weeks of 95+ degree weather, areas weakened by brown patch in June are starting to show stress.

Heavy shade and low air circulation. Fescue performs best if it receives some sunlight every day. Fescue will tolerate more sun than most realize and does well in full sun when it is watered and mowed properly. Air circulation plays the important role of drying the leaf blades between watering cycles. Small backyards, privacy fences, and heavy shade are the hardest on fescue in July and August. This week Hall | Stewart Lawn Care Specialists have visited several fescue lawns with good air flow and dappled sun resulting in healthy fescue with good summer color while in the same lawn there is thinning/fading fescue in areas with low air circulation and deep shade.
Fescue cut too short. Remember leaf blades store moisture the plant needs to withstand the summer heat. Fescue survives through July and August best when it is cut at 3” to 3 1/2”. Every fescue lawn I have seen this week that is being maintained below 3” is struggling. If your fescue is less than 3” tall, don’t mow again until it reaches 4”, then remove only ½” to 1”.
Tight clay soil that has never been aerated resulting in shallow rooted fescue that will struggle in the heat.

*If your fescue is losing a lot of color check the soil. If it is dry, increase water by deep soaking in the morning every other day. If the soil is moist, then the problem is brown patch.*

*Fescue seeded over Bermuda in full sun in the heat of the year.*

*Fescue in full to dappled sun in July.*

During fescue’s offseason, take a stroll around your lawn and start planning for the fall. The cooler days of September will be here soon.

Do you need to make some changes to how you are mowing and watering your fescue?

Are you trying to grow fescue in full shade, in a location where there is little wind movement?

If so, can you improve the conditions, or should you consider transitioning to a shade tolerant ground cover?

Or, are you OK with knowing the area needs to be overseeded with fescue every fall, will look wonderful for 9-10 months, fade for a couple of months, and then repeat the cycle again after fall overseeding?

If your fescue didn’t perform well due to the excessive moisture and high humidity of the early summer, or if it has struggled with brown patch in the heat, start making plans to overseed this fall.

Do you have areas of the lawn that are becoming too shady for bermuda? Bermuda starts to thin anywhere it does not get at least 6 hours of direct sunlight every day. Is this the fall to start establishing fescue in those areas?

Whether you have a full fescue lawn, or just some fescue in shady areas, don’t fret, fescue’s best season is just a few weeks away!

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

Lorne Hall 7/20/25 Lorne Hall 7/20/25

Good Mowing Practices Make a Big Difference!

Great lawns are the result of well-timed lawn care applications, perfect weather conditions, and proper maintenance practices.

As we approach the midpoint of the summer growing season, mowing practices are often the determining factor on the difference between a good lawn and a great lawn.

Unfortunately, as the summer routines wear on, good mowing practices are often overlooked as we slip into a routine of just getting it done.

When it comes to a great lawn, mowing practices are more important than the fertilizer you use, the weed control applications that are made, and the amount of water used.

Getting mowing right comes down to three critical practices: mowing height, mowing frequency, and managing the clippings.

*Fescue is at its best when it is cut between 2.5” to 3.5”.*

Mowing Height

Grasses adapt well to various mowing heights, but there is a direct relationship between mowing height and a healthy turf. As the height of the grass is increased, the root system increases. As the height is lowered, the root system decreases. A taller turf yields a healthier root system and a lawn that will withstand more stress. And, as the height and density increase there is less room available for weeds to germinate and grow.

Optimal cutting heights vary based on the type of grass and the time of year. All turf grass should start the season low and gradually increase in height over the course of the summer. The goal is to have your lawn at its thickest and tallest height during the heat of summer.

Fescue is at its best when it is cut between 2.5” to 3.5”.

Bermuda is best maintained between 1.5” to 2.5”, but Tiff Type Bermuda should be maintained shorter, .5” to 1.5”.

Areas of shade need to be mowed at the maximum height. The increase in leaf space will allow the plant the best possible chance to survive in the lower light.

A best lawn maintenance practice is to not remove more than 1/3 of the leaf blade when mowing.
Currently I’m trying to maintain my fescue lawn at 3”.
Yesterday with the fescue reaching over 4” it was time to cut it back to 3”.

Bermuda is best maintained between 1.5” to 2.5”.

Mowing Frequency

Probably the biggest hindrance to having a great lawn is mowing on a schedule, not on need. Most people mow their lawns once a week during the growing season. We all understand why. We are busy and our only opportunity to mow is on our day off. Or, you may have a landscape management company that mows the lawn once per week.

But, for the absolute best lawn, mow based on the 1/3 rule rather than a set schedule. For example: If you desire to maintain your fescue at 3”, you should never let your lawn grow over 4.5”. If you want to keep your Bermuda lawn at 2”, then you need to mow before it exceeds 3”, not just because it’s Saturday and you always mow on Saturday.

Whenever you remove more than 1/3 of the grass in a single mowing, you are cutting below the plant leaf and into the stem. If you see yellow or brown areas after you mow, you are cutting more than 1/3.

Turf grass research shows when you cut into the stems the plant responds by using nutrients stored in the root system to regenerate leaves. This reduces the strength, health and density of the root system and results in a weaker turf.

What should you do when your lawn becomes too tall, and you need to cut off 50% or more to get back to the desired height? Cut 1/3 off, wait a couple of days and then cut another 1/3 off. Repeat until you reclaim the height you desire.

There is no doubt that frequent mowing at a uniform height, whether short or tall, is one of the most important aspects of having a great lawn.

Mowing with a mulching mower will return valuable clippings to the lawn. Grass clippings are mostly water and nitrogen.

Managing the Clippings

When you are able to mow frequently using the 1/3 rule, I recommend not catching the clippings. Turf grass leaves are 80-90% water and nitrogen. Grass clippings decompose very quickly and add nutrients back to the turf.

Not bagging your clippings is a major step in improving your lawn’s quality.

When you bag your clippings, you throw a little of your fertilizer away every time you cut the lawn.

Most years, I bag my fescue lawn a couple of times per year, the first time each spring and September when I cut the lawn short in preparation of overseeding. So far this season I have managed to dodge the rain interruptions, stay on my typical 4-to-5-day mowing habit and my mower’s grass bag has remained in the garage since the first cut of the season.

A common belief is that when you don’t bag your clippings you are increasing thatch buildup. As long as you are only cutting the leaves and not the stems, thatch will not become a problem.

Mulch mowing will not only return nutrients to your lawn, it will also return moisture. This picture was taken during a heat wave and drought. At this point the lawn was being watered deeply every 4 days, cut at 3”, and mulch mowed.

Two Important Bonus Practices:

1. Mower blades should always be kept sharp. Dull blades bruise the leaf resulting in frayed leaves and a duller lawn appearance.

2. Vary your mowing pattern throughout the season to reduce soil compaction. Changing your mowing pattern will also improve turf appearance. I recommend rotating through at least three different mowing patterns. For example: mow parallel to the street, the next time mow at a 45-degree angle, followed by mowing perpendicular to the street or at the opposite 45-degree angle.

Changing the mowing pattern will reduce soil compaction and improve turf appearance.

Lawn mowing is the most time-consuming landscape practice.

It has to be performed more frequently than fertilizing, weed control, bed weeding, shrub trimming, and flower planting.

It is easy to allow mowing to become just another task that has to be done. But, a properly maintained lawn is well worth the time and effort.

Nothing adds more curb appeal to a property than a well-groomed lawn.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

Lorne Hall 7/13/25 Lorne Hall 7/13/25

The Return of the March of the Army Worms

This week has us feeling as though we are living in a sequel of 2021’s March of the Army Worms.

We mentioned army worms last week in our post “What’s Bugging Your Landscape”, as a turf damaging insect you should always be on the lookout for this time of the year.

You can always find a few army worms in the summer and fall. And like most insects, when populations are at normal levels, they are not a problem, and you may never notice them. But, when conditions are just right, you can see an explosion to turf damaging levels in a matter of days.

*An army worm discovered Saturday feeding on a rural Edmond lawn.*

What are the conditions that make us feel as though we are living in 2021 again?

Army worm eggs and worms have a higher survival rate when there is abundant moisture. Over the last 30 days, we have received 7” of rain. In 2021, during the same period, we also received an abundance of rainfall.
The first sightings of damaging army worm populations in 2021 were on the perimeters of the metro. With each generation of army worms in the summer of 2021, populations increased and lawn damage increased deeper into urban areas. This week, army worm activity was heavy around the perimeter of the metro area.

The mature Army Worm is 1 1/2” long, green to brown in color, with stripes down each side.

What is an army worm?

The adult form of an army worm is a light gray-white moth with mottled wings with a 1 ½” wingspan. Because army worms do not overwinter in our climate, the moths migrate from the Gulf Coast and Mexico each year arriving in our area in late June.
Each moth can lay over 1,000 eggs.
By early July the first generation of eggs have hatched, and the caterpillars go on a feeding frenzy that lasts 2-3 weeks.
Early caterpillars are green and very small and don’t cause any damage until they reach 1”. Quickly, they grow into a brown, almost black, 1 ½” long caterpillar with black and reddish-brown stripes on each side of the body and small black spots on the top. Their distinctive mark is an inverted “Y” on the front of the head.
At the end of the 2-3 week feeding period, the worm burrows 1” into the soil and enter the pupal stage. 7-10 days later they emerge from the soil as a moth and the life cycle starts all over.
The average entire life cycle lasts about 28 days. There can be 4 to 5 overlapping generations from July through early November, or until we have our first hard freeze.
Again, army worms are always present in our summer lawns and landscapes. When populations are normal, you may never know they are there. But, with the right conditions we can see an explosion to turf damaging levels in a matter of days.

How many Army Worms can you see in this picture?  Their green to brown color makes them hard to spot. — How many Army Worms can you see in this picture? Their green to brown color makes them hard to spot.

While standing in this area while Army Worms were actively feasting, I had the sensation that the lawn was moving moving.

What is the typical host plant?

The army worm feeds on a wide variety of plants. They prefer any leafy, soft plant with plenty of moisture in the leaf. They love alfalfa and bermuda hay fields and all turf grass varieties.
For home lawns in our area, typically by the time we get to July, bermuda lawns are looking their best and fescue lawns are starting to enter their summer off season. So, it is common for army worms to prefer bermuda lawns over fescue lawns. In 2021, fescue lawns were thriving in July due to the abundance of moisture and cooler than normal temperatures. At the same time bermuda lawns were lagging behind. The result was lawns where army worms wiped out the fescue and skipped the bermuda completely in favor of moving to another lawn with fescue. So far this summer with both bermuda and fescue both doing well, army worms are feeding on both types of turf.

If you have a healthy, growing, green turf of any variety, your lawn may be a host location for army worms.

Will army worms kill a lawn?

Army worms are primarily surface feeders. Small to moderate infestations will consume the leaves of the plant and the lawn will recover over time with sufficient moisture and fertilizer. In large numbers, the worms will consume the crown of the plant and are capable of killing a lawn.

How do you know if you have army worms?

Because of how widespread and large the current population is, daily or at least every other day, inspection of the lawn is important. Early detection is the best control.
When army worm population are high, you may only have to look at your sidewalks to see them marching to the next blade of grass.
Early signs of army worm damage will appear as drought stress. Don’t dismiss areas that you think may just not be getting enough water.
Stand in the area that looks stressed. If the population is heavy enough, you will have the sensation that the grass is moving.
Still not sure? Get down on your knees and inspect the area. Because of their green to brown color, the worms can be hard to spot while standing.
Still don’t see any worms? Test the area with a soap flush. Mix 1 teaspoon of a lemon scented dish soap in 1 gallon of water. Pour over the area. If you have army worms, they will come to the surface. 2 to 3 worms per square foot, you need to treat.
Army worms feed heaviest in the evening, night, and early morning. They often are hard to find in the middle of the day.
Another clue you may have an army worm problem - Have you noticed an abundance of moths while walking across your lawn?

*Take a stroll around your lawn today. If you see an abundance of moths you need to treat your lawn for army worms.*

Check leaf blades in areas where the turf is browning. If your blades look like this one with jagged edges, you have Army Worms.

How important is frequent inspection?  I mowed my lawn on Thursday. This area of the lawn always struggles with brown patch in the heat of the year because of low air circulation. Yesterday afternoon I walked the lawn checking for declining areas   When I got to this area it looked a little worse than it did two days ago. Then I saw something move. Being late afternoon I couldn’t find any army worms even on my hands and knees. — How important is frequent inspection? I mowed my lawn on Thursday. This area of the lawn always struggles with brown patch in the heat of the year because of low air circulation. Yesterday afternoon I walked the lawn checking for declining areas When I got to this area it looked a little worse than it did two days ago. Then I saw something move. Being late afternoon I couldn’t find any army worms even on my hands and knees.

I decided to do a soil drench with soapy water. I mixed a teaspoon of scented dish soap in one gallon of water.

I slowly pored the water in a one to two square foot area. — I slowly poured the water in a one to two square foot area.

How do you control army worms?

A quick response is important. Army worms can wipe out a football sized lawn in 2 days.
Treatment when worms are small before they become heavy feeders is best. The army worm consumes 80% of their total consumption in the last two days of their worm stage.
Any insecticide labeled for caterpillar control in turf will be effective.
When making any application remember, the label is the law. Always read and follow all label instructions.
After treatment, keep up regular inspections. With a 4-week life cycle and overlapping generations, they continue to be proactive in watching for increasing populations of army worms.

This spot in a bermuda lawn appeared to be lack of water, but while inspecting the area I discovered army worms.

This bermuda lawn had a similar browning area as the last lawn. But after not finding any worms, I checked the irrigation and discover a head that was not working and the discoloration was a watering issue.

Will your lawn recover?

If the worms only eat the leaves, the lawn will recover. If they destroyed the crown, there is a possibility the lawn will not recover.
If you have a bermuda lawn, continue normal watering and fertilizing. There is still time for the lawn to return to a healthy condition before the end of the growing season.
For fescue lawns, recovery will be slower and will be delayed until we see cooler temperatures. This is already the most stressful time of the year for fescue. The best time to reseed fescue is September through October. If you experience army worm damage on your fescue lawn, plan on overseeding this fall.

Inspect your lawn today!

If you see any signs of army worms or turf damage, call (405)367-3873 or respond to this email.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

ELISE TAYLOR 5/18/25 ELISE TAYLOR 5/18/25

One Easy Way To Make A Big Difference In Your Lawn - Don’t Bag Your Clippings!

You may have heard me tell this story before, but it is worth telling again:

The Tale of Two Very Similar but Very Different Lawns

In the late 1980’s, the full-service landscape management company that I started while in college provided landscape maintenance for two homeowner associations located directly across the street from each other in NW Oklahoma City.

The economics of the two HOAs were very different — resulting in a big difference in services:

The HOA on the south side of the street had a contract with two less fertilizer applications than the one on the north side of the street.
The one on the northside also required us to bag and remove the lawn clippings. The southside HOA’s budget couldn’t afford the extra expense for bagging and waste disposal.
The HOA on the north side had an irrigation system with nearly perfect coverage that ran every other day while the one on the other side of the street had an old inadequate system that we struggled to keep operating during dry spells.

Which HOA do you think always had the greenest grass?

Not the one with more fertilizer applications and more water.

The one with the greenest grass was the one that couldn’t afford to have their grass clippings bagged and removed!

*NW OKC Bermuda lawn that is mowed regularly without clippings being bagged & removed.*

Freshly mowed Bermuda lawn cut tight with a reel. Clippings were not bagged but a blower was used to redistribute noticeable clippings.

Why Does Not Bagging Your Clippings Make Such a Big Difference?

Grass clippings are 80-90% water and nutrients, mostly nitrogen. Every time you throw away a bag of clippings you throw away moisture and valuable nutrients.
You can gain one pound of nitrogen per growing season by returning your clippings to the lawn each time you mow. This is a significant amount considering most turf grasses require 4 to 5 pounds of nitrogen for optimal growth, density and color. Research at the University of Missouri and Kansas State University confirms that 25% of your lawns needed annual nutrients are contained in your lawn clippings.

Fescue lawn immediately after the lawn was cut. 1" of growth was removed. Clippings were not bagged.

If there you have noticeable clippings after you mulch mow, simply use your blower to redistribute clippings.

Mulch mowing leaves in the fall is beneficial for your soil.

Bagging your lawn clippings is like someone offering to give you free fertilizer, and you saying, “No Thanks!”

Decaying clippings will increase organic material in the soil. As clippings break down, beneficial bacteria increases. Healthy soils contain at least 5% organic material. Most lawns contain 2-3% organic material and research shows that consistently allow your clippings to return to the soil will increase organic material by at least 1%.

Bagging your lawn clippings is like someone offering to top dress your lawn with compost for free, and you saying, “No thanks!”

Mulching mowers, also known as recyclers, will nourish the lawn by cutting the clippings into smaller clippings and return nitrogen, moisture, and organic material back to the lawn.

Keys to Successfully Mulch Mowing

Mow frequently enough that you only remove 1/3 of the grass per mowing. For example: If your goal is to maintain your lawn at 2”, mow before your lawn grows past 3”. This may require you to occasionally mow every 4-5 days instead of the traditional once per week. When only cutting 1/3 of the growth, you are only cutting off the leaves. Grass leaves break down very quickly and do not increase thatch on the soil surface.
If you get behind with your mowing, raise your mower up and gradually lower it back down over the next couple of cuttings. In the worst case, bag the clippings one time and then return to mulch mowing as you regain a more frequent mowing routine.
Don’t mulch mow when the grass is wet. Wet grass clippings clump and don’t breakdown quickly.
Mowers designed for mulch mowing work best since they cut the clippings multiple times. If you don’t have a mulching mower, most brands have mulching kits and/or mulching blades you can add to your mower. And there is nothing wrong with just mowing without the bag on with most mowers.
Keep your lawn mower blade sharp. A sharp blade will cut the clippings finer instead of tearing the grass leaf.
When you finish mowing, if there are any noticeable clippings on your lawn use your blower to clean them up or if not too many, just spread them out.
One last exception, if you have weeds with seed heads, it is best to bag your clippings and remove the weed seeds from your lawn.

If you haven’t figured it out, I’m a big believer in not catching your clippings. It will make a huge difference in the color of your turf and the health of your lawn. And, when done correctly, you won’t even notice clippings.

If you mow your own lawn, give it a try.

If you hire someone to mow your lawn, give them permission to not bag as long as they do not leave behind any noticeable clippings or debris.

I know you will like the difference it makes on your lawn.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

Lorne Hall 5/11/25 Lorne Hall 5/11/25

Nutsedge – Possibly The World’s Worst Weed

I have called many weeds “the world’s worst weed”, but If I am asked what some of the weeds are that give all lawn enthusiast the most difficulty, there is a 100% chance I am going to respond without hesitation: “NUTSEDGE!”

Nutsedge is fast growing, has an upright growth habit and light green in color. Because it grows twice as fast as your turf and is lighter, it ruins the best maintained lawns within a couple days of mowing.

Why is it time to brush up on your nutsedge knowledge?

Because the best growing condition for nutsedge is moist soil and after the wettest April in Oklahoma City history, we have the perfect conditions for a nutsedge battle!

Like most weeds, early action is best. Procrastination only makes winning the battle more difficult. With conditions right for nutsedge to be a bigger problem this season, we want to make sure you have the information you need to get ahead of the problem.

What does nutsedge look like?

Commonly called nutgrass because it looks like grass, but it is a sedge with triangular ‘V’ shaped leaf blade arranged in groups of three at the base.

Nutsedge grows faster, has a more upright growth habit, is lighter in color and has a thicker, stiffer leaf blade than your turf grass.

What are the best growing conditions for nutsedge?

Nutsedge thrives in moist, tight soils. It is common to find it growing in areas of poor drainage, around irrigation leaks, and in lawns that are watered too frequently.

Although nutgrass starts in overwatered lawns or areas of poor drainage, once it is established it thrives with normal irrigation, in dry lawns and even through a drought leading many to believe nutgrass has more to do with the soil structure than moisture.

Nutsedge also prefers full sun and doesn’t grow well in shade and typically isn’t a problem in shady lawn areas.

Nutsedge first emerges in May and continues to thrive until the first frost.

Why is nutsedge so difficult to control?

Nutsedge is a perennial weed. Perennial weeds are always more difficult to control. But, nutsedge is one of the toughest because it spreads by underground tubers. Four to six weeks after the first blades emerge, typically in late June to early July, nutsedge begins forming new tubers (nutlets) and rhizomes (underground stems).

The tubers grow 6-12” deep and are referred to as nuts - thus the common name of nutgrass. Nutsedge spreads by growing rhizomes which produces more nuts. Weeds that propagate through tubers and rhizomes are very difficult to control because unless you get control of the rhizome and tuber, the plant will sprout new growth within a few days. Also, tubers can remain dormant in soil for up to three seasons.

Hall | Stewart’s 7-Step Lawn Care Program includes nutsedge control. One of the benefits of subscribing to our full program is we do not charge extra for nutsedge control. Because we know the presence of nutsedge can quickly tarnish a great looking lawn, we use the most advanced nutsedge control herbicides available to the industry.

In late June to early July, uncontrolled areas of nutsedge will begin to multiply and take over areas.

What is the best way to control nutsedge?

Be proactive. With the first sign of nutsedge, take action. Nutsedge is much harder to control once it has been allowed to spread and mature.

Weed killers labeled for use on nutsedge will be either a contact killer or a systemic. A contact herbicide will kill only the leaves, and the tubers and rhizomes will remain active if you make only a single application. Systemic products will translocate through the plant to the tubers and rhizomes.

Key Point - A single applications of most herbicides labeled for nutsedge will kill the plant leaves but leave the nut unaffected.

Because it is neither a grassy nor broadleaf weed, common herbicides have little to no control. For nutsedge control you must search out products specifically labeled for nutsedge.

A few herbicides available at most garden centers labeled for nutgrass include:

Basagran – A second application must be made 7-10 days after the first application.

Image Nutsedge Killer – Requires a second application 3-4 weeks later.

Sedge Hammer Plus – Must have a surfactant mixed with the herbicide to be effective and a second application will need to be made in 6 weeks.

Ortho Nutsedge Killer and Gordon’s Trimec Nutsedge Plus – Both require follow up treatments every 4 weeks.

Please read the label and follow it. You need to know your turf type. Read the label to make sure you can use the product on your lawn.

Is pulling nutsedge a good idea?

Pulling nutsedge is only recommended when the plant is very small before nuts start to develop on the rhizomes (Best if pulling only occurs in the month of May). Once nuts start to develop, you must remove the nut when pulling the weed, which is typically 6-12” below the surface.

If you pull the weed and leave the nut behind, new plants will emerge very quickly. If pulling, the best method is to dig at least 12” deep and 12” wide to get all the tubers.

Research suggests that anytime the tuber is stressed, by either pulling the top off or by killing the top without killing the tuber itself (the result of a single application of an herbicide), the tuber multiples. Therefore, many people experience more nutsedge after they have pulled or sprayed.

Cultivating nutgrass, such as in landscape beds, is ineffective. All you are doing is redistributing the tubers and rhizomes.

One of the worse infestations of nutsedge I have experienced was in a lawn where an elderly man spent hours every week, all summer long, pulling nutsedge in his lawn. He said, “Nutsedge first showed up in my lawn a few years ago and the more I pull it the more nutsedge there is. It feels like the harder I work at pulling it the more I have!” I immediately responded, “Stop pulling it! Every time you pull it, the nut in the soil is stressed and in an effort to preserve itself, the nut multiplies.”

What else can I do to be proactive in preventing nutsedge?

Aeration is a great way to reduce the chances of nutsedge starting and spreading. Aeration reduces soil compaction and reduces the best growing conditions for nutsedge.

Our experience is lawns which are aerated annually rarely have nutsedge problems.

Water only based on need and infrequently. Overwatering, keeping your lawn too wet, promotes the best growing conditions for nutsedge. Water deep. Allow the soil surface to become dry between waterings.
Correct water leaks in your sprinkler system promptly. Nutsedge will stake a claim to any areas that become waterlogged.
Along the same line of thinking, correct poor drainage areas. Often patches of nutsedge are an indicator of poor drainage.

If you find yourself struggling with nutsedge, give Hall | Stewart a call, (405) 367-3873. The good news…. the Hall | Stewart’s 7-Step Lawn Care Program includes nutsedge control.

Nutsedge is one of the more aggressive and persistent weeds you will encounter.

Control of nutsedge can be a long process.

It is a marathon, not a sprint.

Success involves both the best cultural practices (aerating, watering, and mowing) and timely use of quality herbicides labeled for the control of nutsedge.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

Lorne Hall 4/20/25 Lorne Hall 4/20/25

Aeration… the "Then Some” of Lawn Care

A good lawn is the result of several key activities:

1. Correctly timed pre-emergent applications to prevent weeds before they germinate.

2. Applying the right amount of fertilizer to ensure you have a thick and healthy turf.

3. Regularly scheduled mowing that only removes the top 1/3 of the leaf blade each time.

4. Infrequent, deep watering based on seasonal need.

But, there is a 5th activity that too often is overlooked.

George Toma, the greatest groundskeeper in the history of sports, has a saying:

“Do the job and then some. It is the ‘then some’ that

distinguishes the mediocre from the great.”

George Toma played a part in preparing the playing field for every Super Bowl until he retired after Super Bowl LVII at the age of 95. Toma is known as “The Sodfather!”

George Toma, presenting the keynote address at a turf conference several years ago, started his talk by announcing he was going to discuss the three most important things to have a great turf.

His 1st point was Aeration.

His 2nd point was Aeration.

And, you guessed it, his 3rd point was Aeration.

What are the benefits of aeration?

Soil compaction is reduced.
Air movement into the soil is improved.
Fertilizer can quickly reach the root zone.
Water runoff and puddling is reduced.
Roots grow stronger and deeper.
Thatch is reduced.
Reduction in weeds that thrive in compacted soils.

For George Toma, the “then some” that distinguishes the mediocre lawn from a great lawn is aeration.

Aerification is a must!

If your goal is to have your best lawn possible, aeration is a required step in your lawn care program.

What is aeration?

Aeration is the process of mechanically removing 2”-3” cores of soil, 4”-6” apart, from your lawn.

Compact soils prevent grass from establishing a healthy root system and prevent air, water, and nutrients from reaching the root zone. Walking, playing, and mowing (in other words everything you do on your lawn) increases soil compaction.

As Oklahomans, we know about tight clay, compacted soils. Our clay soils make growing a great lawn a challenge.

Too often we accept soil compaction as just the way it is and settle for the status quo of an average lawn.

Stop accepting the norm!

You don’t have to struggle with the results of growing a lawn in tight, compacted soil.

Golf courses typically aerate their turf at least two times per season. No wonder the fairways look so much better than most home lawns.

Lawns with compacted soil also are more susceptible to weed development. Most weeds thrive in tight compacted soil.

Nutsedge, one of the most difficult to control summer weeds, thrives in tight soils. Our experience has shown that annually aerated lawns have far less problems with nutsedge.

Why do golf course fairways always look so good? Turf managers know the importance of aeration. The secret to a great lawn is a great root system. Annual aeration is the ticket to a great root system.

Should the cores be removed or left on the lawn?

Leave the cores on the lawn. As they breakdown and dissolve, they will refill the holes with loose soil resulting in improved soil structure. The cores will break up and settle back into the lawn within a few weeks.

When should you aerate?

Warm season lawns (Bermuda and zoysia) should be aerated any time after spring green-up and before the end of July.
Cool season lawns (fescue) should be aerated in the fall, September through October. Aeration in conjunction with overseeding will not only improve the soil structure, but it will also improve seed soil contact resulting in better seed germination.

**Now through the first half of the summer growing season is the best time to aerated lawn Bermuda, a warm season turf.**

Nothing will take your lawn from good to great more than an annual aeration!

One more Toma saying… “The most important part of grass is the soil and the root system.”

Aeration is the best way to improve the soil structure and develop a stronger root system.

Aeration, the most overlooked lawn practice, will give you a healthier, more vigorous, less weedy lawn.

To achieve your best lawn, annual aeration is a must.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

Weed Control

Key Point: For the best lawn this year your lawn needs a pre-emergent application before soil temperatures reach 55 degrees in early March.

Dormant Oil

Key Point: Dormant oils will reduce, and possibly eliminate, some insects.

Watering

Key Point: Winter plant damage is more likely to occur when plant roots are dry during an extended cold period.

Fescue

Key Point: Hold your judgment on the condition of your fescue lawn for another 4-6 weeks.

What can you do for your fescue lawn?

Key Point: Cut your fescue a little shorter in a few weeks to remove the brown leaf tips.

Soil Test

Key Point: For the best lawn and landscape, have your soil tested every two to three years.

Tree Pruning

Lawn Maintenance

Lawn Equipment

Fresh snow is like a warm blanket on a cold night to your landscape!

Snowfall is moisture!

The Old Farmer’s Almanac calls snow a “poor man’s fertilizer.”

What is Dormant Oil?

How Does A Dormant Oil Work?

What Insects Do Dormant Oils Control?

When Should Dormant Oils Be Applied?

Who Should Schedule A Dormant Oil Application Now?

The early Spring Pre-Emergent application is the first step, and a critical step, in growing a weed free, healthy lawn this year.

Why is the early spring pre-emergent so critical?

Why am I so sure you will have crabgrass if you skip the early spring pre-emergent application?

What is the best timing for the first lawn care application?

Will one pre-emergent application per year be enough?

Does a pre-emergent need to be applied as a liquid or can it be spread as a granular?

Why are pre-emergent sprays blue-green?

Most importantly, for the best lawn in 2026, you must apply a pre-emergent to your lawn before the end of February.

Moisture

Mulch

Lawn Pre-Emergent

If you are a subscriber to a Hall | Stewart’s Lawn Care Program, we will be visiting your lawn very soon to apply the critical first application of the year to prevent spring and summer weeds.

Lawn Post-Emergent

Tree Trim

Dormant Oil

Soil Test

Leaf Clean-up

Mower Maintenance

Set Lawn and Landscape Goals for 2026

Happy is about feeling good due to circumstances.

Merry is about expressing joy.

Merry Christmas from your friends at Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape!

“Trees are the truly the pillars of our landscapes…

Think of trees as an investment for future generations…”

First – the intended purpose is important.

Second – the size of the area.

Third – the shape of the tree.

Finally – consider the advantages and disadvantages of a particular tree.

Where do you go to find the best trees for your landscape?

When is the best time to plant trees?

Proper tree pruning during the early years of a tree is an essential practice for any landscape.

Trees are too large of an investment to leave their growth to chance.

Lawn Mowing

Leaf Removal

Mulch

Irrigation

Tree Trim

Spring Bulbs

Weed Control

Fertilizing Trees and Shrubs

Tree Planting

Soil Test

Foot Traffic

Typically, peak fall color for central Oklahoma is the first two weeks of November.

Autumn Blaze Maple

Chinese Pistache

Bald Cypress

Lacebark Elm

October Glory Maple

Shantung Maple

Shumard Oak

Redbud

Ginkgo

Sweet Gum

Ash

Crape Myrtles

Dogwoods

If you are a subscriber to a *Hall | Stewart’s Lawn Care Program**, we will be visiting your lawn very soon to apply the critical first application of the year to prevent spring and summer weeds.*